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July 21, 2018, 09:42 PM | #1 |
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Getting closer to shooting the old wallhanger
My plans fell through for the weekend so I decided to try and disassemble the cut down 1700's flintlock fowler I picked up last year.
(Original thread) - https://thefiringline.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=590681 I had real concerns about the safety of shooting this old piece, as the lock was not sitting flush at the rear with the stock. I was worried that there was damage to the stock or rear of the barrel in that area that would make it unsafe. So today I spent a couple hours trying to get 200+ year old screws and bolts to budge. After much coaxing, I managed to get the lock off, and I discovered why it wasn't sitting flush with the stock. One of the screws inside the lock had loosen up so much that there was no way for the lock to sit flush. Tightening it up got the lock to back into the stock further where it belonged. I made a ramrod for it, to match the shortened barrel. It came out pretty good for a first try, matching the old stock fairly well. I gave up trying to get the barrel off, as the top screw at the back would not come out. I eventually managed to get it to turn but it would only back out approx. 1/16th of an inch, and just spin in place even with another screwdriver applying pressure under the edge of it. Strangely, it would tighten right back up within a couple turns though. What does this screw go into? Just the wood stock, or does it go into threads on the other side of the trigger guard? I have no idea. I had really wanted to check the barrel out thoroughly before test firing it. I guess I'll have to go with option 2, which is to strap it to an old tire, and test fire it remotely using a long string. I have some FFFg black powder, I just need to find some FFFFg for the pan. (Pic from last year) Last edited by HillBilly Willy; July 22, 2018 at 09:25 AM. |
July 21, 2018, 09:44 PM | #2 | |
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Quote:
Many shooters use the same powder for the main charge as they use in the pan, be it 3Fg or 2Fg. This was how it was done historically too, they did not carry two different "sizes" of powder. |
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July 21, 2018, 10:00 PM | #3 |
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Good to know. I don't have any experience with black powder, so I was just going with what I was told.
Thanks. |
July 22, 2018, 03:23 AM | #4 |
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If you've got 3Fg, go ahead and use it.
Fill pan only to where the powder comes level with the vent hole -- not cover it (or worse, get/put powder into the hole) For the main charge, use "about" the same amount of powder in grains, as the ball/barrel is in caliber (40gr ~ 40 caliber) Important observation/question #1: Do you have a different/newer flint from the one shown in the pics? Important observation question #2: Pull the lock after firing sessions and scrub it inside/out with soapy/water/toothbrush (15 seconds), dry it out and re-oil inside/out. (Dry off/patch clean frizzen before next session) Last edited by mehavey; July 22, 2018 at 08:31 AM. |
July 22, 2018, 09:18 AM | #5 |
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You don't even need the lock on the gun or the barrel on the stock to proof it. Just lay the barrel on an old tire and use a cannon fuse in the touch hole. It doesn't have to be lashed down, just pointed in a safe direction. The barrel will fly backwards a few feet, just have some soft sand or dirt for it to land on.
That's essentially how the government proof houses proofed gun barrels in the old days. Once the barrel passed proof, then the rest of the gun was built. This way, if the barrel does blow, it won't take the stock and lock with it.
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July 22, 2018, 09:23 AM | #6 | |
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I do not have another flint. This one does seem to spark quite well. I need to move it out a hair bit more, as it sparks much better when further out than the pictures are showing right now. Is there something you see about the flint that you don't like other than that? Thank you for the reminder about cleaning the lock and frizzen. I do have experience with corrosive primers and antique bolt action rifles, but this is different yet. By "pull the lock", do you mean remove it from the rifle like in the pictures above? |
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July 22, 2018, 10:15 AM | #7 |
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Roger, pull the lock free and scrub the inside (the vent hole blows residue out/partially down into the works)
If the flint sparks sparks, go ahead and try w/ it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Rb0s3YAGOA If problems, they are available from these guys: https://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/141/1 |
July 22, 2018, 10:38 AM | #8 |
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Go light with 3F. 2F is what you need for muskets or fowlers.
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July 22, 2018, 11:37 AM | #9 |
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As I recall there is a powder {reduction} factor followed when preferred 2-FFG is substituted with 3-FFG. I {think?} that figure is 10-%.
Once while muzzle hunting 252 miles away from home . I forgot my primmer horn and its 3 gr. primmer measure'r. Having only a Day horn full of 2-FFg Groex along and arriving at camp after suppertime. Later that first evening I got a idea I turned over a coffee cups saucer. Poured 5 or 10 grs of 2-FF into its center ring/circle and chopper that 2-FFg into 4-FFFFg with a razor sharp duel purposed filleting /gutting Chicago folder. No misfires did that homemade 4-FFFFg produce. In-fact I filled my Tag with a dandy 6 pt using that chopped powder later-on during that hunt. B.T.W-I wouldn't hesitate to do again if needed. A challenge arose on that successful hunt with my having to hurriedly re-charge my rifles pan for a second shot~~ not needed. Pouring the last of the powder I had chopped wrapped in a tube of wax paper into the pan facing a gusting wind was kinda problematic. |
July 22, 2018, 12:06 PM | #10 | |
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I can see how I would get a better spark from one of the flints in your link. |
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July 22, 2018, 12:10 PM | #11 |
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I planned on going light anyway. I only figured on shooting it a few times just for the experience, before putting it back up on the wall.
I suppose the danger here is I might enjoy it so much that this "plan" gets blown to smithereens. |
August 21, 2018, 02:16 PM | #12 |
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That is a COOL PROJECT!
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August 26, 2018, 09:18 AM | #13 |
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You have to love that gun. I think it would be a BLAST to shoot. Be careful and please post the results.
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August 26, 2018, 03:38 PM | #14 | |
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Goex really ought to sell 4f in quarter pound cans, an entire pound just will never be used up by someone only shooting occasionally. FFg and FFFg will also work just as it is as a priming powder. I guarantee that the Redcoats were not issued special FFFFg priming powder, they used the same powder to prime as they used in the main charge. In the heat of battle, it's best to keep things simple.
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August 29, 2018, 02:59 PM | #15 |
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Hillbilly Willy hasn't posted on his project since July 22, 2018....
I wonder how the project went ???? Hillbilly Willy ....where Y'at ? |
November 4, 2018, 04:16 PM | #16 | |
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Plus I've got 5 or 6 other gun projects on the bench, and I haven't touched one since summer. Grrr....... |
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November 4, 2018, 05:08 PM | #17 |
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Do you know what diameter the bore is? Looks way bigger than .73"
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November 5, 2018, 09:02 PM | #18 | |
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About 13/16th of an inch, or .8125" as measured, inside diameter, with a caliper. I guess that would make it a 9 gauge? Last edited by HillBilly Willy; November 5, 2018 at 09:12 PM. |
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November 6, 2018, 02:02 AM | #19 |
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Sweet, I love the big diameter smoothbore muzzleloaders. I would love to find a 4 bore and load it with shot and take it to the skeet range.
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November 7, 2018, 06:24 AM | #20 |
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I come up with 8.7 gauge.
Bore diameter to gauge=(1.67/bore in inches) raised to the third power.
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November 11, 2018, 06:11 PM | #21 |
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I rounded to the nearest whole number.
I take it they didn't care about whole numbers when they made a barrel back then? lol |
November 11, 2018, 07:25 PM | #22 |
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Couldn't measure it. I can't imagine Vernier calipers of the day were accurate and micrometer's for manufacturing didn't exist then.
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March 9, 2019, 09:41 PM | #23 |
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Well I went to the big local yearly gun show where I always see the vendor with the flints. He wasn't there!
So then I ordered flints from Track of the Wolf that said they were for a Brown Bess, and they are were too big! I should have measured the width of the steel. Lesson learned. I brought the "wallhanger" to next big show last month and got the proper size flint. Installed and adjusted the flint. I'd say this looks like good spark. (Bumping this old thread because it makes this post more relevant. I'll start a new thread when I finally shoot it) |
March 9, 2019, 10:11 PM | #24 |
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To me, your endeavor is quite awesome! I would give up my child (ok, not really) to have a piece of history, especially were it a family heirloom like that, which seems so much cooler getting it working AND working up a load.
It’s been quite some time since you initially posted this and I didn’t go back and reread it. Did it come with any sort of load information? Did you get a starting point? And did it come with a powder measure? I have read how old guns like this often had powder measures made from antler or some such. But I’ve wondered wether or not they actually worked on load development or if they just settled on what they felt was a reasonable powder charge for their day. Powder, I assume, wasn’t a cheap thing back then and so I can see a very limited amount of testing. And the level of accuracy is dependent on the person and the use. 6” at 100 yds is good enough for hunting but not Xs. Not so hard to find and accept acceptable. Please do continue to update! |
March 9, 2019, 10:17 PM | #25 |
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It lives!
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