S&W 686 cylinder doesn't want to come out.

Saab1911 · July 22, 2008, 11:17 AM

I'm very happy with my Smith and Wesson 686 revolver. It is my first
revolver, and I think it's so cool, almost as cool as a SAA (almost). The single
action trigger pull is as perfect as I've seen on any gun, including high end
1911s. In general, I am very impressed with my revolver.

However, after exactly 100 rounds of 357 magnum ammo, the cylinder
doesn't want to come out. I have to dry fire the revolver (it's empty) a few
times and then the cylinder swings out. I lubed the heck out of the thing
with Break Free CLP. I put the oil everywhere where two metal surfaces
may touch. That still hasn't cured the problem.

I can live with the issue since I can get the cylinder to swing out
after a couple of dry fires. So, if the issue is something due to tight
tolerances and will eventually go away, I'm not that concerned with it.

But, do you think that this problem may indicate that I have a lemon?
Do I need to send the revolver back to Smith and Wesson to have them
fix it?

Is the fix something simple that I can do myself?

Cheers,

Jae

Kreyzhorse · July 22, 2008, 12:14 PM

Quote:

Do I need to send the revolver back to Smith and Wesson to have them fix it?

My only guess might be gunk under the extractor causing the cylinder to bind? Have you cleaned under there really well?

Otherwise, I'd call Smith on this one. You paid good money for a good revolver and it should work correctly.

parrothead2581 · July 22, 2008, 12:16 PM

Check to ensure the ejector rod is screwed down tightly. That may be the culprit right there?

I'm not sure why it would decide to open after a few dry fires though....

Saab1911 · July 22, 2008, 01:06 PM

Quote:

My only guess might be gunk under the extractor causing the cylinder to bind? Have you cleaned under there really well?

Otherwise, I'd call Smith on this one. You paid good money for a good revolver and it should work correctly.

Thanks. I called Smith & Wesson. They said that they have heard of the
problem and usually it's because the area under the extractor is dirty.

I guess I just have to clean it.

Cheers,

Jae

Kreyzhorse · July 22, 2008, 01:10 PM

Quote:

I guess I just have to clean it.

I use a toothbrush on mine..... Only way to really get in there good.

Let us know if that takes care of the problem. If it doesn't, I'd send it back to Smith. Might sent it back any way if it fouls up so bad after 100 shots that it doesn't function normally.

45_Shooter · July 22, 2008, 01:30 PM

Sometimes taking a stone or file and taking a little off of the ejector rod (barrel end) can cure this up. Just an old trick I learned from shooting PPC.

smith627 · July 22, 2008, 03:40 PM

What parrothead said, it may be loose ejector rod. Had your same sympton on my 629 MG and it would continue loosening when I shot it. Finally had to put a light adhesive on it and that cured it. You turn the ejector rod counter clockwise to tighten it. Good Luck.

Saab1911 · July 22, 2008, 05:05 PM

Quote:

What parrothead said, it may be loose ejector rod. Had your same sympton on my 629 MG and it would continue loosening when I shot it. Finally had to put a light adhesive on it and that cured it. You turn the ejector rod counter clockwise to tighten it. Good Luck.

That was it! Thank you very much, and I'm a little miffed at S&W customer
service guy. I told him that I shot 100 rounds. The area under the extractor
was still very clean, but the extractor rod was loose.

I'm going to hit it with some lock-tite. Let's see that itch-bay come loose
now!

Thanks to you (smith627), parrothead, Krezyhorse and 45 Shooter.

I'm so glad I didn't have to ship the pistol to S&W because shipping
firearms is a pain in my posterior.

Thanks again.

Cheers,

Jae

CraigC · July 22, 2008, 05:16 PM

Yep, the loose ejector rod and a little crud under the extractor star are really the only two things you usually have to worry about with S&W's. Some are more sensitive than others. My 629MG is quite intolerant of crud under the extractor but the rest of my Smith's will go at least a few hundred rounds before it's a problem.

Are the ejector rods still left-hand threaded?

parrothead2581 · July 22, 2008, 05:30 PM

You're welcome! That is what we are here for!

Saab1911 · July 22, 2008, 05:31 PM

Quote:

Are the ejector rods still left-hand threaded?

Yes, why is it lefty tighty? (Whiskey Tango Foxtrot)?

azredhawk44 · July 22, 2008, 05:36 PM

Quote:

Yes, why is it lefty tighty? (Whiskey Tango Foxtrot)?

I'd guess it complements the natural rotation direction the cylinder uses when you shoot DA rapidly. Doing it the "right" way will result in the cylinder's natural rotation assisting in unscrewing the rod.

CraigC · July 22, 2008, 07:54 PM

Quote:

(Whiskey Tango Foxtrot)?

Quote:

Doing it the "right" way will result in the cylinder's natural rotation assisting in unscrewing the rod.

There ya go!

Kinda like how on some vehicles the wheel studs on the left hand side are left hand threaded.

45_Shooter · July 23, 2008, 08:21 AM

FYI S&W's prior to 1961 or so were threaded 'right', but after enough of those backed out they switched.

I wouldn't locktite the rod in, if you ever have to strip the cylinder it will be a huge pain.

CraigC · July 23, 2008, 08:34 AM

If you use a dab Blue 242 Loctite it's no problem to unscrew the ejector rod if you wrap it in leather and use a pair of pliers. The red stuff doesn't belong anywhere on a firearm.

Jart · July 23, 2008, 09:39 AM

And put a couple empties in the charge holes before bearing down on the extractor rod with the light application of blue Lok-Tite.

I didn't know about the empties when I was doing mine and the pins managed to survive but it's a a precaution I'll try to remember in the future. It probably wouldn't hurt in the "pinless" models either.

July 22, 2008, 11:17 AM	#1
Saab1911 Senior Member Join Date: July 1, 2008 Location: Los Angeles, Kalifornia Posts: 1,176	S&W 686 cylinder doesn't want to come out. I'm very happy with my Smith and Wesson 686 revolver. It is my first revolver, and I think it's so cool, almost as cool as a SAA (almost). The single action trigger pull is as perfect as I've seen on any gun, including high end 1911s. In general, I am very impressed with my revolver. However, after exactly 100 rounds of 357 magnum ammo, the cylinder doesn't want to come out. I have to dry fire the revolver (it's empty) a few times and then the cylinder swings out. I lubed the heck out of the thing with Break Free CLP. I put the oil everywhere where two metal surfaces may touch. That still hasn't cured the problem. I can live with the issue since I can get the cylinder to swing out after a couple of dry fires. So, if the issue is something due to tight tolerances and will eventually go away, I'm not that concerned with it. But, do you think that this problem may indicate that I have a lemon? Do I need to send the revolver back to Smith and Wesson to have them fix it? Is the fix something simple that I can do myself? Cheers, Jae

July 22, 2008, 12:16 PM	#3
parrothead2581 Senior Member Join Date: August 4, 2005 Posts: 1,268	Check to ensure the ejector rod is screwed down tightly. That may be the culprit right there? I'm not sure why it would decide to open after a few dry fires though.... __________________ But I am like a green olive tree in the house of God: I trust in the mercy of God for ever and ever. Psalm 52:8

July 22, 2008, 03:40 PM	#7
smith627 Member Join Date: April 27, 2008 Location: Central Mississippi Posts: 16	What parrothead said, it may be loose ejector rod. Had your same sympton on my 629 MG and it would continue loosening when I shot it. Finally had to put a light adhesive on it and that cured it. You turn the ejector rod counter clockwise to tighten it. Good Luck. __________________ NRA Life Member *Shoot Safely, Shoot Often, & Share Your Sport - Shooting USA*

July 22, 2008, 05:30 PM	#10
parrothead2581 Senior Member Join Date: August 4, 2005 Posts: 1,268	You're welcome! That is what we are here for! __________________ But I am like a green olive tree in the house of God: I trust in the mercy of God for ever and ever. Psalm 52:8

July 22, 2008, 01:30 PM	#6
45_Shooter Senior Member Join Date: June 11, 2008 Location: Metro Detroit Posts: 1,050	Sometimes taking a stone or file and taking a little off of the ejector rod (barrel end) can cure this up. Just an old trick I learned from shooting PPC.

July 22, 2008, 05:16 PM	#9
CraigC Junior member Join Date: November 28, 2001 Location: West Tennessee Posts: 4,300	Yep, the loose ejector rod and a little crud under the extractor star are really the only two things you usually have to worry about with S&W's. Some are more sensitive than others. My 629MG is quite intolerant of crud under the extractor but the rest of my Smith's will go at least a few hundred rounds before it's a problem. Are the ejector rods still left-hand threaded?

July 23, 2008, 08:21 AM	#14
45_Shooter Senior Member Join Date: June 11, 2008 Location: Metro Detroit Posts: 1,050	FYI S&W's prior to 1961 or so were threaded 'right', but after enough of those backed out they switched. I wouldn't locktite the rod in, if you ever have to strip the cylinder it will be a huge pain.

July 23, 2008, 08:34 AM	#15
CraigC Junior member Join Date: November 28, 2001 Location: West Tennessee Posts: 4,300	If you use a dab Blue 242 Loctite it's no problem to unscrew the ejector rod if you wrap it in leather and use a pair of pliers. The red stuff doesn't belong anywhere on a firearm.

July 23, 2008, 09:39 AM	#16
Jart Senior Member Join Date: December 24, 2001 Location: Grand Prairie, TX Posts: 1,647	And put a couple empties in the charge holes before bearing down on the extractor rod with the light application of blue Lok-Tite. I didn't know about the empties when I was doing mine and the pins managed to survive but it's a a precaution I'll try to remember in the future. It probably wouldn't hurt in the "pinless" models either.