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Old October 2, 2018, 05:43 PM   #1
CastAmerican
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Lee Enfield stiff bolt

I just got a Lee Enfield No. 1 Mk. 3 (Ishapore, if that changes anything) from a gun show. The bolt runs smoothly on its own until I went to fire it. When I chamber a round, the bolt takes a bit of force to push down and close all of the way. Similarly, it takes some force to open.
Was just curious for suggestions of the issue. Could it be a head space problem? Any advice is welcome. Thanks.
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Old October 2, 2018, 07:19 PM   #2
4V50 Gary
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Take it to a gunsmith to check the headspace. He'll have to take off the extractor and if he doesn't, he's not a real gunsmith.
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Old October 2, 2018, 07:51 PM   #3
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Thank you. I will.
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Old October 2, 2018, 08:41 PM   #4
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You do understand the Enfield cocks on closing?
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Old October 2, 2018, 09:05 PM   #5
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Cocking will give him some resistance on closing, which he should have noticed from dry firing, but not on opening. Cocking resistance on opening is either a high-pressure sign or a compressed case. If the closing force is greater than he gets when cocking the gun on an empty chamber, then it sounds like compression. Look at the case heads for signs of the brass being smeared by rubbing on the bolt. That's what I would expect if the headspace (depth of the rim recess in the .303) were too shallow for the bolt. Check that the bolt is properly matched.

At the other extreme, if the closing resistance is all cocking effort, then the opening resistance is excess pressure. That can happen if the load is wrong or if it is surplus ammo that has gotten too old or been stored too warm temperatures for too long. What can occur is once the stabilizers are consumed, the deterrents can break down faster than the nitrocellulose, resulting in powder with a faster burn rate than intended, raising peak pressure. I've shot enough hot 7.62 surplus that I just don't trust the old stuff any longer and will pull bullets and charge with fresh powder before using a surplus load that feels snappy.
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Old October 2, 2018, 09:31 PM   #6
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Hey guys, thanks for all of the answers. I just thought I might tell you of an observation I made.
I read somewhere else that some brands of 303 Brit cases have thicker rims than others. I tested one brand and it didn't close. Then I tested another brand and it cocked and closed as I would expect. Does this mean that the headspace is too shallow for one brand and not for the other?
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Old October 3, 2018, 12:47 AM   #7
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Got calipers? I'd measure the rim to see if they are within spec (see a reloading manual) and if they're not, there's your problem.
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Old October 3, 2018, 07:17 AM   #8
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https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.c...ad-space-gauge

25 bucks. Cheaper than than a gunsmith or a insurance deductible and you wil have your answer
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Old October 3, 2018, 11:46 AM   #9
CastAmerican
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And if I find my headspace is too tight? How would I go about fixing this?
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Old October 3, 2018, 01:36 PM   #10
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IIRC headspace on Lee-Enfields is adjusted through changing the bolt head.
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Old October 3, 2018, 02:07 PM   #11
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It's headspace. The rim on the case would have to be waaaay out of spec of ~ .064" to cause that.
"...Lee-Enfields is adjusted through changing the bolt head..." Yep. With a No. 1 you need a handful of bolt heads, at approximately $25 to $30 each, to try with proper headspace gauges(the whole set, not just a No-Go.) until you find one that works.
"...and if he doesn't, he's not a real gunsmith..." That's not true. CF Weapons Techs did not. They simply put the gauge under the extractor and close the bolt.
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Old October 3, 2018, 02:29 PM   #12
CastAmerican
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Okay so I just switched my bolt head out for my fathers (he owns a No. 1 Mk. 3 as well) and everything fit together okay. So where would I find bolt heads for these rifles where I could just try them out?
Also, so a 303 Brit GO, NO-GO, and FIELD headspace gauges are required? And can someone point me to a video or something where I can find how to use them?
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Old October 3, 2018, 02:53 PM   #13
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Also, this may sound dumb, but I'm fairly new to firearms. What if I bought a whole new matching bolt? Would it work for my rifle, or is every rifle different?
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Old October 3, 2018, 03:23 PM   #14
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They are different, its complicated, you have mfg tolerance in this.

And a whole new built is just a whole new variable.

So, lets lay it out and figure out, what is the goal here?

Head space is a very poorly understood subject and then opinions get thrown in and it gets mucked up, so good idea to take a deep breath as it really is more than one thing affecting things here.

As noted, to adjust for a lot of variance, the Brits elected to have difference bolt heads.

So, say you have a Number 3, measure all that with head space gauges then do it with a number 1. Changes everything because you have changed one end of your baseline.

Throw in Brit SMLE chambers were "generous " and you can have cases go on round one or (if you reload) no more than 3 (generous in diameter not the length though that too)

Then you have a rimmed case and throw in the variables there (thickness as you note)

So yes for the one ammo type, the head space is too short with the bolt head you have but the other works. Go with that one?

Change it all and you may wind up with ammo that won't fire, because the head space is now so great the case move forward (have to ponder that one, maybe e not with rimmed) - very likely will stretch the cartridge and possibly to rupture.

No, don't invest in a lot of gauges, or bolt heads. Figure out is it ok with the ammo that works?
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Old October 3, 2018, 03:30 PM   #15
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Okay, then I should just use the cases that work in this rifle. That solution is a whole lot simpler than buying a new bolt head and gauges I think. I will try that for a while.
Thanks for all of the advice and knowledge everybody.
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Old October 6, 2018, 12:34 PM   #16
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"...Head space is a very poorly understood subject..." Yep. And suggesting one ammo type will give good headspace and another bad is a classic example of that lack of understanding. The whole point of headspace is to allow all ammo of a given cartridge to be used in all firearms chambered in that cartridge.
"...just use the cases that work in this rifle..." Absolutely NOT. Headspace cannot be fixed by changing the case. The .303 Brit headspaces on the rim and you CANNOT make it headspace on the shoulder. Nor can you fix or check headspace with bits of tape, spent cases, chewing gum or any of the other idiotic methods seen online.
"...switched my bolt head..." Don't do that.
Gunparts lists stripped(no extractor) bolt heads at $14.90 each. You need a fist full.
Pacific Tool and Gauge sells the headspace gauges at $37 each with an available discount for a set. I'm not seeing specific .303 Brit headspace gauges for rent at Reamer Rentals. However, the .303 Epps uses the same gauges. So does the .30-40 Krag.
So you can rent 'em for $7.
You slip the gauge under the extractor then gently close the bolt. The bolt should close completely on the Go, but not on the No-Go. If it does close completely on the No-Go, you try the Field. It should not close on the Field. If it does, the headspace is excessive and you need another bolt head. Note the italics on the word 'completely'.
"...you have a Number 3..." It's a No. 1 MARK III. Not a Number 3. A Number 3 Rifle is a Pattern 14. A totally different rifle.
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