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Old August 19, 2007, 04:40 AM   #1
Scone
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What shall I reload .38 or .357 ?

I have just brought a new Smith & Wesson 586. It takes .38 or .357

I would like to use it for Service match and IPSC. I have a Dillon Square Deal with the .38/.357 dies and have previously reloaded 9mm on my 550B.

I need to go and buy a bunch of brass and projectiles to reload with.
I will be using ADI AP70N powder (similar to Unique).

I don't want a hot load, just making 120 power factor will do me fine, I don't want a lot of felt recoil either. What caliber should I reload for? If I download the .357 is this a bad thing because it just leaves more empty space in the case?
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Old August 19, 2007, 04:58 AM   #2
zoomie
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Download the .357 so you don't get the annoying .38 fouling rings in your cylinder. They're a bear to clean.
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Old August 19, 2007, 05:10 AM   #3
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I just purchased a new S&W 686 and I swore only .357 Magnum cases will ever be used in it. I had heard of the awful fouling ring shooting 38 specials in it would cause so I decided to just always use 357 magnum length cases in mine.

I use 7.8 grains of Unique behind a 158 grain JHP that gives me an honest 1050-1075 FPS from my 4" barrel. (900+) rounds from a pound of powder, the load is at the bottom of the "magnum" scale yet it gives a nice magnum recoil to it. And it is still as good or better than a 38 Special +P round velocity wise.

I did not want to practice with full power .357's as that wears both the gun and the shooter down. But this load gives me magnum performance, economy and a round that if I had to use for defense wouldn't be a wuss round.
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Old August 19, 2007, 07:14 AM   #4
DMZX
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I with Stargazer. I load with Unique into .357 cases to get a good moderate loads that are both accurate and fun to shoot.

One of my favorites is 7.5 grains of Unique under a 158 gr JHP (XTP). This works equally well in both my small frame 605 and my GP100.

I shoot a good deal and don't care to beat up my guns and my self with top end magnum loads.
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Old August 19, 2007, 07:18 AM   #5
Peter M. Eick
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I agree with all of you guys. 357 cases (regardless of how you load them) in 357s and keep the 38's in the 38 specials.

I load a lot of Unique and 2400 for mild 357 loads. The 2400 is messy, but easy to load.

If you want powderpuff loads, try some trailboss. I have successfully gone above factory recommendations with the stuff and had near 100% loading density in the 357 mag. Just don't try to compress the stuff because it is said (no personal experience here) that it gets unstable when the donuts break.
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Old August 19, 2007, 09:44 AM   #6
straight-shooter
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The abominal crud rings are not as big a problem as people seem to think if you use Kleen-Bore Lead away patches. I use these patches to clean the front of the cylinder anyway so while I have them out I run them through each cylinder. This not only cleans the cylinders nicely but also lubricates them with a slick surface which makes cleaning even easier the next time.

Only downside is don't use this method if you have a blued gun. Only do this with a stainless. I've been told it will remove blueing.

Last edited by straight-shooter; August 19, 2007 at 10:27 AM. Reason: typo
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Old August 19, 2007, 10:05 AM   #7
Jim Watson
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I shot PPC with .38 wadcutters in a Python for some years. A good scrubbing let me shoot magnums for IPSC major power factor with no problem at all.
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Old August 19, 2007, 04:56 PM   #8
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I've had my 6-inch 686 since 1989 and put many thousands of rounds through it. If I had to try and guess, I've gotta say 90% or better have been .38 special rounds, most of them handloads.

I've got no chamber issues of any sort, and the last two boxes of ammo through it have been .357 mag DBBWC's. My .38 special handloads have been everything from wadcutters to SWC to old LRN's.

If you've got a large supply of .357 mag brass, use it if that's what you like. If you've got a good supply of .38 special brass, I think you are being overly protective of a very well-built firearm by refusing to shoot a bunch of .38 special through it.
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Old August 19, 2007, 06:58 PM   #9
Scone
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Convinced

Ok I have been convinced, here and elsewhere. I will stick to .38

The gun is blued so none of those fancy cleaning wipes for me if
the .38's leave a ring then I will just scrub with a brush. Sounds
like the shorter rounds make for quicker speed reloads on the trot
as well.

Cher
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Old August 19, 2007, 10:16 PM   #10
caz223
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Great post, sevens.
Shooting .38 will also lessen the chance of getting a rim stuck under your ejector star.
Denying yourself the ability to shoot .38 in that gun is simply ignoring one of the strengths of having that gun in that caliber.
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Old August 20, 2007, 09:22 AM   #11
Sevens
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Thanks. My first handgun was my S&W model 17 (K-22) and I hadn't had it all that long when I managed to rub a spot of bluing right off the cylinder with some over zealous cleaning. The only cleaner that had ever been near it was the good 'ole Hoppe's #9. But I took a quarter inch diameter spot off one of the chamber flutes, so I can see being wary of taking off bluing by mistake.

I think because of that, I prefer that EVERY handgun I ever buy comes in stainless steel. That's not always possible, but I sure prefer it.

As far as quick reloads, I don't know how the heck they do it when trying to speed load full wadcutter rounds. I love shooting wadcutters, but I'll be damned if I know how anyone does it quickly every time.
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Old August 20, 2007, 02:18 PM   #12
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"...the awful fouling ring..." Like Jim says, it's not that big of a deal. It's just lube gunk that comes out with normal cleaning. However, loading .357 cases to .38 velocities eliminates it.
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Old August 20, 2007, 04:39 PM   #13
Jim Watson
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Quote:
As far as quick reloads, I don't know how the heck they do it when trying to speed load full wadcutter rounds. I love shooting wadcutters, but I'll be damned if I know how anyone does it quickly every time.
Apply a roll crimp even to a wadcutter; it is not needed for powder ignition, but it helps you start them in the chamber.
When reloading wadcutters with a speedloader, approach the cylinder at a bit of an angle, start two wadcutters into their chambers, and then rock the speedloader into line to start the rest. A little practice with dummy rounds and you will be loading fast enough for PPC time limits.
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Old August 24, 2007, 04:27 PM   #14
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I like to load .357 brass to .38 levels for .357's, but I am lazy and don't want extra cleaning.
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Old August 24, 2007, 05:10 PM   #15
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I inherited my father's M28-2 a couple of years ago. He shot .38 SPL almost exclusively. I like to keep both on hand, but two things have changed my mind. First, I did get a little tired of spending five minutes cleaning the barrel, and 30 cleaning the cylinder. Second, I also have a Rossi .357 lever carbine. I have found that it shoots great with .357 loads, and not worth crap with .38 Special loads. Accordingly, I'm in the process of replacing all my .38 Special brass and going to all .357. I can load some to .38 Special velocities for indoor range plinking, even if it means seating the bullets 1/8" deeper to keep the case volume the same. No biggie. I rarely load up full-house Magnum loads anyway.

On a related note, I have 500-plus empty, tumbled .38 Special brass for sale or trade...
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Old August 24, 2007, 05:59 PM   #16
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7.5 -7.8 grains of Unique fill the case almost perfectly. And if you want a lighter load, Unique doesn't care if it is a reduced load, no filler needed or seating the bullet in further. That is one of the reasons it is called, "Unique".
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