An ideal "gunfighting" revolver.

[Zhillsauditor]

You can get a model 10 in 6" and have a good smith do just about anything with it you could want, including cutting it down, adding sights, rails, etc.. I was going to suggest a model 14 cut down to 5". In fact, I have a model 14 6" barrel sitting on my kitchen counter top right now . . .

[Sharpsdressed Man]

Your 696 S&W is an L-frame. A 3" barreled K-frame (Model 13/65) is about 31oz. My .45 cut down 1917 N-frame was just weighed at 35 1/4 oz. They are all about the same length, with a little extra "girth" on the N-frame. I just read that the S&W 696 is 36oz, just a tad HEAVIER than a cut down .45 1917, and I would imagine a .357 686 would be heavier, too.

[Venom1956]

Just a question to the OP? The L frame in the first post looks to be a 4" to my eye... Just want to make sure we are on the same page? Cuz I find 5" revolvers to be ideal length.

[Viper225]

I conceal carry almost daily. I also shoot Defensive Pistol Matches with my revolvers every month. The 2 revolvers that I turn in the best times with are my 3" 66-2, and my 4" 64-2.
Of these two I conceal carry the 3 Inch 66-2 in a Lobo Enhanced Pancake with Optional Inner Hammer Shield quite a bit more than the 4" 64.

The 3" K or L Frame would be my pick for an all round carry gun. With a 3" most Models of S&W revolvers have a Full Length Ejector Rod. The 2 Inch and 2.5 Inch ones come with short rods. You get more positive ejection with the full length ejector rod.
Also a 3" Barrel is about as long as is handy to conceal carry year round for me. The 3" K is a little more compact, however I am sure I could manage a 3" 686 just fine. I do not own a 3" 686 for a simple reason. The new ones are all 686 Plus 7 shot models. Shooting matches using my carry guns is very important for me. I use Safariland Comp III speed loaders to load my K and L Frame 6 shooters. When you go to a 7 shooters you are back to the HKS Speed loaders which are not nearly as fast to reload with.
No I do not conceal carry the Comp III speed loaders. I do like to use them to beat up on the Combat Tupperware at the matches however.

Bob

[Sarge]

Blue, four-inch, short shroud GP100 with fixed sights and a Meprolight dot up front- converted to 40/10mm using moon clips.

[dahermit]

Just a question to the OP? The L frame in the first post looks to be a 4" to my eye... Just want to make sure we are on the same page? Cuz I find 5" revolvers to be ideal length.

I must have had a senior moment when I measured it last...you are correct, I measured it again, and it is a 4".

[dahermit]

I conceal carry almost daily. I also shoot Defensive Pistol Matches with my revolvers every month. The 2 revolvers that I turn in the best times with are my 3" 66-2, and my 4" 64-2.
Of these two I conceal carry the 3 Inch 66-2 in a Lobo Enhanced Pancake with Optional Inner Hammer Shield quite a bit more than the 4" 64.

The 3" K or L Frame would be my pick for an all round carry gun. With a 3" most Models of S&W revolvers have a Full Length Ejector Rod. The 2 Inch and 2.5 Inch ones come with short rods. You get more positive ejection with the full length ejector rod.
Also a 3" Barrel is about as long as is handy to conceal carry year round for me. The 3" K is a little more compact, however I am sure I could manage a 3" 686 just fine. I do not own a 3" 686 for a simple reason. The new ones are all 686 Plus 7 shot models. Shooting matches using my carry guns is very important for me. I use Safariland Comp III speed loaders to load my K and L Frame 6 shooters. When you go to a 7 shooters you are back to the HKS Speed loaders which are not nearly as fast to reload with.
No I do not conceal carry the Comp III speed loaders. I do like to use them to beat up on the Combat Tupperware at the matches however.

Thanks for your comments. However, as I originally posted, the purpose I am considering is for my back-yard range shooting, for the purpose of quick-draw (strictly fanticy...not real self-defense gun-fighting). My current guns are a little to heavy to "snatch and shoot". That is why I am considering a K frame. As for three inchers, I have a wonderful 3 inch 696 (.44 spl., 5 shot). When I fill the niche for the snatch and shoot, and after tuning, it will be shot a whole lot (rapid double action only) at a steel target. My carry at this stage in life (old), is a snubby in a pocket holster.

[hogdoc357]

Bunches of Cowboys for years have been pretty successful with a pair of these...

[dahermit]

I am begining to lean towards a S&W 60 with a 3in. barrel for its weight advantage over the K frame...and round butt. Now, the problem will be to find one. I wonder if they were ever made without the internal lock.

[Deaf Smith]

My Speed Six...



The one on the bottom left...

Did my action job, Secret Service stocks, rounded the hammer so it won't bite if I cock it, and cleaned up the sights.


BUT any of these will do!

M66-3 M686-3
Speed Six Security Six

Deaf

[Rapidray]

That would be the 681. 4 inch, fix sights, everything you need in a combat revolver!

[ZVP]

Not much mention of the Model 36 or the like even though this revolver would likely be pressed into action in many an instance since so many are carried!
I just bought a Bobbed Hammer Nickled Model 36 as a personal revolver to carry and defend my family and self with.
Yes I know the limits of the .38 Special, but these are the same details that endear it to me. control and accuracy are it's strong points and with much pratice, I should become minimally proficent with it. I plan weekly sessions of pratice centering on 7 yard courses of fire with a sprinkling of 3 yard point shooting sessions mixed in.
I won't feel undergunned with the little 36 due to becoming very familliar with it.
I consider Civillian carry and use differentlly than Police use. Hopefully in the Civillian sequence, the gun will never be needed. If it is I am supposing that the 2 1/2 (3 actually) shot confrontation will be the norm. The remaining 2 shots are reserved for a head shot.
Please, if you have any opnions of the .38Special Model 36, post here!
ZVP

[Water-Man]

My 10-7 3" fits the bill.

[JohnKSa]

If I were building a gunfighting revolver, it would ideally have a 4" barrel, 5" max, 3" minimum. I'd want it to be quick handling--so not too large & heavy. DAO would be my preference for trigger action.

I'd be inclined to go with fixed sights, not adjustable and I'd want something set up for moonclips--both for reloading speed and maximum ejection reliability.

[Redhawk5.5+P+]

Sorry, but I don't think you hit the criteria for the ideal gunfighting revolver.

Get an Airweight, and it will serve you well.

"Ideal gunfighting revolver" is the N-Frame S&W 327 R8.

[warningshot]

K Frame 4 inch S&W. Tops.

It might be a bit difficult fighting a guy who just pumped 158 grains of 800 fps lead into the non bullet proof part of the your body first.

For some reason, and I don't know why, but these revolver fighting guys seem to stay away form S&W L Frames and GP 100s and anything with a 6inch barrel. If it's going to be a steady diet of real .357 Remington Magnums then its a N frame or the Ruger Speed/Security Six.

[Baba Louie]

I am begining to lean towards a S&W 60 with a 3in. barrel for its weight advantage over the K frame...and round butt. Now, the problem will be to find one. I wonder if they were ever made without the internal lock

Look for a 60-9 or 10. A quick search shows there's one each on GB if you move fast and enter the fray.

[dahermit]

Not much mention of the Model 36 or the like even though this revolver would likely be pressed into action in many an instance since so many are carried!
I just bought a Bobbed Hammer Nickled Model 36 as a personal revolver to carry and defend my family and self with.
Yes I know the limits of the .38 Special, but these are the same details that endear it to me. control and accuracy are it's strong points and with much pratice, I should become minimally proficent with it. I plan weekly sessions of pratice centering on 7 yard courses of fire with a sprinkling of 3 yard point shooting sessions mixed in.
I won't feel undergunned with the little 36 due to becoming very familliar with it.
I consider Civillian carry and use differentlly than Police use. Hopefully in the Civillian sequence, the gun will never be needed. If it is I am supposing that the 2 1/2 (3 actually) shot confrontation will be the norm. The remaining 2 shots are reserved for a head shot.
Please, if you have any opnions of the .38Special Model 36, post here!

I have a pre-lock 36, but it is a pocket carry, smaller grips for that purpose than I would use for fast draw. Although I am considering a J-frame, I want a 3-inch barrel...mine is a snubbie and I do not think they make a 3-inch M36.

[dahermit]

Bunches of Cowboys for years have been pretty successful with a pair of these...
Attached Images (sm)HogDoc's Shooting

Or, I could buy a pair of .36 Navies and carry them, butt forward in a red sash. It worked for Wild Bill...until he sat with his back to the door.

[Sarge]

For some reason, and I don't know why, but these revolver fighting guys seem to stay away form S&W L Frames and GP 100s and anything with a 6inch barrel. If it's going to be a steady diet of real .357 Remington Magnums then its a N frame or the Ruger Speed/Security Six.

If you were going to make me pick my favorite service revolver ever, it would be a toss between an old 4" Ruger Speed Six and a 4" S&W Model 13, both of which I carried as duty guns back in the early 80's. The Smith was nickel. Both saw hatfulls of full-boat mag loads and neither shot loose, Both shot exactly to the sights.

[Magnum Wheel Man]

Ideal gun fight guns ( for me ) would be my cowboy action Ruger Montados in 45 Colt... but my CCW Montado snubbie would be alright...

I didn't read every post... are you planning on learning / practicing point shooting ???

if so, no sights are really needed...

if fast aiming & non traditional is needed, the ghost ring rear sights are fast... I have 4-5 revolvers that I've grafted Williams Fiber Optic Ghost Ring rear sights ( they are a ghost ring, with a fiber optic dot centered on each side of the ring ) I've then added front Fiber optic rods in a contrast color... personally I like orange fronts, & green rears...

it would seem that a reasonably short barrel & a good consistantly fitting grip would be essential for faster draws... lighter weight may help, or may not, provided the gun is not overly heavy or unbalanced...

my Ruger snubbie, & S&W 396 air lite K frame 44 special should be good canidates

[18DAI]

For some reason, and I don't know why, but these revolver fighting guys seem to stay away from S&W L frames and GP 100s and anything with a 6 inch barrel.

The L-frames and GP100s are fine revolvers. They just don't handle as quickly or point as naturally, for me, as the K-frames. Both attributes are nice to have in a revolver you are fighting with.

As far as a 6 inch barrel goes, that would make the revolver muzzle heavy and concealment more difficult.

For "gunfighting", a 4 inch or a short barrel K-frame, 2.5 or 3 inch is about as good as it gets.

Real life shootings typically happen quickly and at close range. As the first shot in a fight is the most important, I want a fast handling, naturally pointing revolver, that gives me the capability of putting that first fast shot accurately on target.

Personally, I don't want to be in a "gunfight". I've managed to avoid them for 17 years, so far. Due to training, practice and experience, if I do get into an armed confrontation, I hope it to merely be a shooting. Regards 18DAI

[azsixshooter]

My "gunfighting" revolver is the S&W 4" 686 Distinguished Combat Revolver. However, I have a pre-Hillary Hole model and wouldn't recommend any new Smiths without removing the internal lock for any use where lives are on the line. After all, even Smith and Wesson agrees with that or why wouldn't they force their dreaded infernal lock on law enforcement?

I'd rather suggest something that doesn't require that kind of modification to function reliably, such as this Wiley Clapp designed GP100 I saw recently:

http://www.americanrifleman.org/arti...-gp100-review/

Don't forget your speedloaders and, more importantly, TONS of practice with them! I don't train for gunfighting, but I would imagine if I did I would want to practice reloading that revolver with the speedloaders a LOT. Somehow simulate high-stress situations, have someone yelling and screaming at you while you are trying to execute your reloads? I'm sure there are exercises designed to somehow simulate the stress of combat while you run through your reloading drills. Just be safe first and foremost!

[dahermit]

Some of you guys have missed the point..."Fantasy Gunfighting" = Learn to snatch and shoot faster than my imaginary opponent. Hit a 12" steel plate at about 10 yards. Therefore, how well a gun stands up to full .357 loads with heavy use is not a consideration inasmuch as I use 125 grain cast bullet with 3 grains of Bullseye for all my fantasy shooting. Also, my fantasy snatch and shoot, does not need to be a service/carry weapon or use speed loaders...I am not a police officer, and it will not be my carry weapon; this is but for fun shooting, which is what most of us here do anyway.
That is why I am thinking about a M60-9, 3", Hogue monogrip. At first I was considering a M19 or M66, but they do not have a round butt in 4" configuration and they are still heavier than what I want for quick-draw, albeit the heavier weight would likely make for better shooting once out of the holster than a M60 3".

[Magnum Wheel Man]

I've since read all the posts... that 396 in a stainless version sounds like something that could handle the range time & still be double action... ( BTW... be carefull speed shooting the double actions... don't shoot your foot )... I'd love to hook up sometime & do some side by side gun fight shooting... I think I could hold my own with my single action cowboy action rig & guns... it would be fun... & I think you'd be suprised how fast you could shoot the single actions with some practice... if you only want to shoot the double actions, that's fine... I used to be the same way, but found as I got older, I actually prefered the singles

... in fact, I may even set up a pair of steel plates side by side on my range just for doing the same