Two questions

Bones507 · May 22, 2008, 03:46 AM

If this has been asked before i apologize. whats the best way to clean a sizing die ? What to use, etc. I used some hoppes on a piece of rag and a fat dowel and the rag came out dirty of course but im sure there is a better way. I had ran some brass that had just come out of the tumbler thru them and was getting those black streaky lines so i cleaned the die but wasnt that happy with the results. I know SOMEBODY has to have a better recipe.

Second question. I am starting to get interested in making my own bullets but want to see how involved it is, my wife has been giving me flack about melting lead and all that but i figure what she dont see, she dont know, lol.
Anyway, is the Lyman cast bullet handbook the best thing to get started with on all aspects ? I know nothing about casting but want to learn before i go buying a kit.
Thanks guys.

Incognito · May 22, 2008, 04:09 AM

Hey Bones- I don't know what type of dies you use, but for my LEE dies, I just disassemble and spray down with WD-40 (or any similar "penetrating" oil like KROIL or PRESERVE). Follow up with Q-Tips and paper towels/rags to soak up excess. I do this everytime before storing them.

On a side note, I've found that WD-40 also makes a great bore solvent

.

**Mike Irwin** · May 22, 2008, 09:12 AM

I use brake cleaner. I just flush my dies out really well with it.

Smokey Joe · May 22, 2008, 10:47 AM

Bones 507--What gunks up a sizing die is the same stuff that gunks up a gun bbl, more or less. So I've always used bore cleaner, and found it to work just fine.

The die that gets the messiest for me is the seating die for lead pistol bullets, gunked up with bullet lube. Again, much the same as inside a gun bbl.

The die in question is removed from the press, parts unscrewed from each other, a paper towel or a rag gets some bore cleaner on it and goes through the die body and around all the other parts. Bingo, clean & shiny.

I'm sure that any other similar solvent would work just as well, sprayed or applied w/a rag.

ETA--If you tumble or otherwise clean the cases prior to sizing, then the cases go into the sizing die shiny and clean, and the sizing die stays shiny and clean. If (and this is a big IF) any of the crud on the case were to be harder than steel, it could leave a permanent scratch on the inside of yr sizing die. With a carbide die it hardly matters at all. But the clean cases still avoid getting crud in the sizing die, among their other virtues.

Inspector3711 · May 22, 2008, 11:14 AM

+1 for brake cleaner. Buy the non-chlorinated stuff at Walmart... Under 2 bucks a can... I flush the die and then put a light coat of Tri-Flow on. I also use brake cleaner on trigger groups and to supplement my bore cleaning system. One hint: if you spray too long at once you will cause the steel to get cold and condensation will form. It's possible to shoot short bursts and thus avoid waiting for the metal to warm up before lubricating the item. If condensation does form just wait for the item to warm up, wipe the condensation off and then lubricate.

Bones507 · May 23, 2008, 04:06 AM

Thanks guys, i will definetly give the brake cleaner a shot. What can it hurt ?

Sport45 · May 23, 2008, 07:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bones507

i will definetly give the brake cleaner a shot. What can it hurt ?

You, if you breath too much of it or let it soak into your hands. Be sure to use brake cleaner in a well ventilated area. I wear the blue nitrile gloves, but you can also lay the parts in a pan to spray them. I don't recommend holding the die in one bare hand while hosing it down with the other. Don't get me wrong, I like brake cleaner and use it all the time for gun and parts (even brake parts) cleaning. Just heed the warnings on the can.

This post was not meant to imply that anyone is, was, or will be acting careless. It is just a reminder to be careful when dealing with solvents of any kind.

wncchester · May 23, 2008, 07:19 AM

Bones, I've used a wide variety of methods and materials to clean & store dies. They all work. Paint thinner (oderless is nicer), alcohol, lacquer thinner, etc. The various spray carborator and brake cleaners are fast and easy. Fumes and skin contact can be a problem with any such chemical but in the quanities you would be using I don't believe they are a significant hazard; haven't bothered me. Me. Me. Me. Me. Yet.

I remove the die's decap or seater stems and wrap a length of toilet tissue, or paper towel, abround a dull pencil to clean the die's interior easily.

When clean, I spray or squirt a shot of some lube, WD-40 or Auto Transmission Fluid, etc., on the dies before storing to prevent rust. Then re-spary with a shot of the cleaner to remove the rust protector before using them again.

Casting is pretty easy but the learning curve can be somewhat long before getting really good at it. Lyman is, and has long been, THE authority so their cast bullet manual is the first book to add to your library. Molds from Lyman, RCBS and Lee are most common and that's because they do good work. I would suggest the Lee melting pots and sizer kits to start. Later, if you really enjoy it, as I do, your own experience will help guide your choices for up-grading.

Don't plan to melt/cast in the house, a well ventalated garage will do nicely tho.

Bones507 · May 26, 2008, 04:27 AM

Thanks wncchester, its good to know different methods.

May 22, 2008, 03:46 AM	#1
Bones507 Senior Member Join Date: January 18, 2007 Posts: 132	Two questions If this has been asked before i apologize. whats the best way to clean a sizing die ? What to use, etc. I used some hoppes on a piece of rag and a fat dowel and the rag came out dirty of course but im sure there is a better way. I had ran some brass that had just come out of the tumbler thru them and was getting those black streaky lines so i cleaned the die but wasnt that happy with the results. I know SOMEBODY has to have a better recipe. Second question. I am starting to get interested in making my own bullets but want to see how involved it is, my wife has been giving me flack about melting lead and all that but i figure what she dont see, she dont know, lol. Anyway, is the Lyman cast bullet handbook the best thing to get started with on all aspects ? I know nothing about casting but want to learn before i go buying a kit. Thanks guys.

May 22, 2008, 04:09 AM	#2
Incognito Senior Member Join Date: May 19, 2008 Location: Colorado, USA Posts: 370	WD-40 Hey Bones- I don't know what type of dies you use, but for my LEE dies, I just disassemble and spray down with WD-40 (or any similar "penetrating" oil like KROIL or PRESERVE). Follow up with Q-Tips and paper towels/rags to soak up excess. I do this everytime before storing them. On a side note, I've found that WD-40 also makes a great bore solvent .

May 22, 2008, 09:12 AM	#3
Mike Irwin Staff Join Date: April 13, 2000 Location: Northern Virginia Posts: 41,390	I use brake cleaner. I just flush my dies out really well with it. __________________ "The gift which I am sending you is called a dog, and is in fact the most precious and valuable possession of mankind" -Theodorus Gaza Baby Jesus cries when the fat redneck doesn't have military-grade firepower.

May 22, 2008, 10:47 AM	#4
Smokey Joe Senior Member Join Date: July 14, 2001 Location: State of Confusion Posts: 2,106	Gunk in dies... Bones 507--What gunks up a sizing die is the same stuff that gunks up a gun bbl, more or less. So I've always used bore cleaner, and found it to work just fine. The die that gets the messiest for me is the seating die for lead pistol bullets, gunked up with bullet lube. Again, much the same as inside a gun bbl. The die in question is removed from the press, parts unscrewed from each other, a paper towel or a rag gets some bore cleaner on it and goes through the die body and around all the other parts. Bingo, clean & shiny. I'm sure that any other similar solvent would work just as well, sprayed or applied w/a rag. ETA--If you tumble or otherwise clean the cases prior to sizing, then the cases go into the sizing die shiny and clean, and the sizing die stays shiny and clean. If (and this is a big IF) any of the crud on the case were to be harder than steel, it could leave a permanent scratch on the inside of yr sizing die. With a carbide die it hardly matters at all. But the clean cases still avoid getting crud in the sizing die, among their other virtues. __________________ God Bless America --Smokey Joe Last edited by Smokey Joe; May 22, 2008 at 11:27 AM. Reason: The usual--had another thought.

May 22, 2008, 11:14 AM	#5
Inspector3711 Senior Member Join Date: February 9, 2008 Location: Puget Sound Washington Posts: 1,553	+1 for brake cleaner. Buy the non-chlorinated stuff at Walmart... Under 2 bucks a can... I flush the die and then put a light coat of Tri-Flow on. I also use brake cleaner on trigger groups and to supplement my bore cleaning system. One hint: if you spray too long at once you will cause the steel to get cold and condensation will form. It's possible to shoot short bursts and thus avoid waiting for the metal to warm up before lubricating the item. If condensation does form just wait for the item to warm up, wipe the condensation off and then lubricate. __________________ "If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun." The Dalai Llama (5/15/01, The Seattle Times) "That rifle on the wall of the labourer's cottage or working class flat is the symbol of democracy. It is our job to see that it stays there." George Orwell

May 23, 2008, 04:06 AM	#6
Bones507 Senior Member Join Date: January 18, 2007 Posts: 132	Thanks guys, i will definetly give the brake cleaner a shot. What can it hurt ?

May 23, 2008, 07:19 AM	#8
wncchester Senior Member Join Date: December 1, 2002 Posts: 2,832	Bones, I've used a wide variety of methods and materials to clean & store dies. They all work. Paint thinner (oderless is nicer), alcohol, lacquer thinner, etc. The various spray carborator and brake cleaners are fast and easy. Fumes and skin contact can be a problem with any such chemical but in the quanities you would be using I don't believe they are a significant hazard; haven't bothered me. Me. Me. Me. Me. Yet. I remove the die's decap or seater stems and wrap a length of toilet tissue, or paper towel, abround a dull pencil to clean the die's interior easily. When clean, I spray or squirt a shot of some lube, WD-40 or Auto Transmission Fluid, etc., on the dies before storing to prevent rust. Then re-spary with a shot of the cleaner to remove the rust protector before using them again. Casting is pretty easy but the learning curve can be somewhat long before getting really good at it. Lyman is, and has long been, THE authority so their cast bullet manual is the first book to add to your library. Molds from Lyman, RCBS and Lee are most common and that's because they do good work. I would suggest the Lee melting pots and sizer kits to start. Later, if you really enjoy it, as I do, your own experience will help guide your choices for up-grading. Don't plan to melt/cast in the house, a well ventalated garage will do nicely tho.

May 26, 2008, 04:27 AM	#9
Bones507 Senior Member Join Date: January 18, 2007 Posts: 132	Thanks wncchester, its good to know different methods.