Die lock ring, another thread

[tangolima]

I like using lock ring to set up die on my press. I have seen those circular print-outs that are to be pasted on lock rings so that die can be adjusted down to 1/32 of a turn. However doesn't it need a some sort of index to point to the graduations?

Also how does it work with a Lee style lock ring, which has a rubber o ring?

Thanks.

-TL

[F. Guffey]

There is the fractional turn of the die in degrees converted to thousandths. I go straight for the reading in thousandths, I do not find it necessary to go for it in fraction of rotations in ° 'BECAUSE!' no matter what, the die goes up or the dies goes down because there are threads in the press and on the die. If I want to adjust my die up and or down I measure the height of the die above the press with a height gage and then then screw it in or out.

If I used the cut out paper or wild guess I would still check my work, WHY? I skip all the busy work and go straight for the measurement. And then there is the companion tool to the press. the feeler gage.

F. Guffey

[higgite]

Also how does it work with a Lee style lock ring, which has a rubber o ring?

The brand/type/style of die lock ring is immaterial. You don't turn the lock ring to adjust a die. Depending on the die and which parameter that you're setting, you turn the die and/or seating stem relative to the stationary paper dial. Yes, you do need a "pointer" on the die or seating stem. A made one on my seating die's stem with a Sharpie.

[briandg]

you could also mark your die with an index by putting it into a vise with non marring plates, and running just a bare notch into it with a triangular file.

A few minutes per die.

[tangolima]

I like the ideas of height gauge and cutting v notches in the thread. Thanks.

The lock ring is a limiter for me to set the gauge. I set the lock ring and screw the die down till it stops, so that I can repeat the setting for different rifles with precision. Lee style dies don't work well.

-TL

[briandg]

I feel like the lee ring completely ignores one aspect of the ring. That ring isn't really there to lock the die in place, just screwing the ring tight against the press will lock it in, and it's no problem at all to make sure it hasn't moved.

A locking die's most important function, IMO, is to take your die that you have laboriously set and make it permanently set. I never use lee dies. I prefer rings that can be clamped into place. I don't like lyman split rings, I like rcbs style rings.

[tangolima]

Brian

I share the same about Lee die. They are definitely of good value, and I have used quite some number of them, especially when I first started. But I do think there are better designs out there. Gradually I replace them with some other brands. But I still have some in my shop. Basically I have to reset the die everytime I load.

-TL

[cw308]

I use the Sinclair split rings. Under the ring I use a #17 O-Ring 7/8 x 1/8 , helps in fine tuning & in removing the die . I have a index mark on the press & lockring. Single stage press.

[briandg]

Tango, when you do notch/mark your dies, a delicate touch is necessary. File down just as much as it takes to give you a clean line.

[F. Guffey]

Basically I have to reset the die everytime I load.

If in my possession there is a die with the lock ring secured/locked to the die; it is not my die. I do not secure the lock ring to the die, I secure the die to the press with the lock ring.

In my opinion there has to be something about threads reloaders do not understand.

F. Guffey

[Reloadron]

I setup my die each time since I do most loading on a single stage press. Considering it takes literally a few minuets to setup and adjust a die I never worry about using a lock ring secured to the die. That said a typical die is a 7/8 X 14 thread pitch so figure 14 threads to the inch. 1/14 = 0.0714 so each turn of the die equals 1/14th inch or .0714 inch of travel (give or take some backlash). I guess a template could be made based on 360 degrees circle but I really can't see a need as die adjustment isn't all that critical and setup is not very time consuming.

Just My Take....
Ron

[tangolima]

It all depends how precise you want your brass to your chamber. Anything more than 0.01" is sloppy to me, and that's about 1/8 of a turn. I want to be able to do better than 0.002". That would be down to 1/32 of a turn.

Here is my system. The die body has 7/8" diameter, or circumference of 2 3/4". A thin sharpie line has a thickness of about 1/16". So if the lock ring advances or retreats by one sharpie line, it moves the die up or down 1/44 of a turn, or 0.0015". I don't have the print-out pasted on lock ring, but a bunch of numbered sharpie marks. When I set up the die for a rifle in my collection, I take a picture of the lock ring. I will dial that in next time I need to size for that rifle. I have been using a sharpie line on the die body as index. But it is not ideal. It comes off easily. I will try the notch approach, and the height gauge.

-TL

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