Need help finding parts for 1873 uberti

[redneck1898]

I have a 1873 uberti cattleman hombre in which the cylinder split i ordered a replacement cylinder and it arrived too long. From what i understand there are two different models of cattleman hombre, but i can only seem to find the cylinder with the removable bushing and my old one seems to be slightly shorter than the new one i got and a one piece anyone have any ideas as to a solution?

[kadima]

I would advise you to contact straight via mail the maker: [email protected]

K.

[Aguila Blanca]

Source for parts is VTI Replica Gun Parts, in Lakeville, Connecticut.

How much too long is the new one? When you bought it, were you aware that replacement cylinders have to be fitted to the gun in order to set the barrel/cylinder gap? It may be that your new cylinder is the correct part but needs to be fitted. It should also be checked for timing after fitting for gap. You should have it fitted by a gunsmith if you don't know how to do this work yourself.

[redneck1898]

I actually was not aware that cylinders need to be fitted. i was under the assumption that replacements were just drop in and go. it is merely thousandths of an inch too long. I have been debating filing the back shoulder of the bushing to give it the needed clearance. Is the bushing supposed to freely slide out of the cylinder with almost no effort? the old one will not come out of cylinder at all

[Aguila Blanca]

The bushing should come right out. It's a slip fit, it's not welded. The old one is probably wedged in by years of soot and crud.

Before you fire up the Nickelson, find out WHAT needs to be filed, and how much. Start by removing the bushing and seeing if the cylinder will fit into the window. Ideally ... it won't. That allows you to take a slight amount off the back end of the ratchet to set the barrel-cylinder gap. I don't use files for this, I use stones.

Only after you have the barrel-cylinder gap correct should you put the bushing back in, and then try again to insert the cylinder into the window. Again, it shouldn't go. If it does, check for end shake -- fore/aft free play. If there is any, you may need shims. If the cylinder WON'T go in, then you stone the front of the bushing until it will go in.

THEN you get to test the timing -- and I don't feel competent to try explaining how to do that.

[redneck1898]

I appreciate the information and i realize how good of an idea it was to inquire about such things before breaking out any tools. I obviously have not done my research on this and have virtually no experience in this field. I apparently have much to learn before attempting to repair this gun. What else should i look out for on this thing?

[DPris]

I'd suggest you look for a gunsmith.
Denis

[redneck1898]

as much as i hate to have anybody else work on my stuff you are probably right. This one is a bit over my head apparently

[yournodaisy]

What in the world caused this cylinder to split? Just curious

[DPris]

Cylinders for those guns don't just drop in, part of the fitting process includes relationships at both ends. That's with tools & gauges & knowledge.
If you (no offense intended) didn't already know that, a pro is your best bet for a positive outcome.

Some people like to tinker, I prefer to have guns that work.
Denis

[redneck1898]

I am beginning to think the same thing denis. im probably better off to let someone more qualified handle this one. And as to the cause of the cylinder splitting all i can say is that it was a cheap lesson to me in which i learned that reloading is a precise ordeal and requires 100% of your attention. And even with a progressive reloader mistakes can be made. Im lucky worse things didn't happen to me or the gun with a double charged load. The cylinder picture is really crappy but the cylinder has a hairline crack running lengthwise in it for about a third of the length. You can see from the picture what the brass looks like and that was a brand new unprimed winchester brass with its first load