Problem with Lee profile crimp die

Steve Smith · May 26, 2002, 04:59 PM

I'm using a Lee Profile crimp die for 10mm, and I have a recurring problem. When I screw the die in enough to crimp the mouth properly, it's hard to pull the ram back down (pull the case out of the die). It seems to get stuck, not at the top where its actually doing the crimping, but basically where the case mouth is passing the carbide ring on its way out. If I don't crimp them like this, and back off just a bit, the sticking problem doesn't happen, but the cartridge isn't reliable in my Bar-Sto barrel.

Any ideas of what I'm doing wrong?

Redneck2 · May 26, 2002, 08:00 PM

but I'd think that you having to crimp too hard which is bulging the cases during the crimp and they're being Un-bulged (a new word???) on the way out.

I'd check case length. I'm wondering if you have to crimp too hard because the cases are too long and the extra hard crimp makes the mouth smaller and effectively shortens the case.

I use Dillon dies for my G20 and they feed fine with light crimp, but then I have the sloppy Glock barrel.

The other idea I had was maybe the inner body of the FCD was cut too big and lets the case expand too much.

Thinking back, I use FCD for my 45 acp and 44-40 and it drags pretty good sometimes. You can sure tell when it's straightening out the cases.

Dunno..random thoughts

Steve Smith · May 26, 2002, 08:06 PM

Like I said (not meaning to sound harsh!) when I have the die turned out just a little, just enough for it not to drag or bang (really!) when it comes loose, it then isn't reliable...it leaves a little ridge of a bell from the belling process.

A possibility is that I have my belling die in too far? I know its farther than it should be, and I've been meaning to back it out a little, but would that cause this problem? Why?

Cases are brand new Starline, with length exactly .985" (max is .992") in several randomly selected cases.

Good random thoughts, Redneck.

C.R.Sam · May 26, 2002, 08:21 PM

Overbelling a distinct possibility. Then when you crimp deep enough to get the bell all the way out, tis maby bulging the case downlower.

Just barely enough bell to enable the bullet to start reliably.

Just a thought.

Sam

Hal · May 27, 2002, 08:30 AM

If it's a Lee Factory Crimp die it's working exactly like it should be. The sticking is the carbide ring resizing the round on it's way out of the die. My .45acp, .45LC and .44Mag Lee FCD's all do the same thing when I'm applying a proper(tight) crimp to a non cannalued(sp) bullet.

If it's a Redding Profile Crimp die, then you'll have to wait for Weshoot2's input.

Steve Smith · May 27, 2002, 01:20 PM

Sam, I'm going to play with that and see if it fixes the problem.

I'm anxious to hear what WeShoot2's comments on the Redding dies are. Do they have this same tendency?

swifter... · May 27, 2002, 04:33 PM

Redding's profile crimp die combines the better characteristics of the roll and taper crimp, as far as I know.
Isn't the 10MM an auto round?
I've always used the profile crimps on revolver rounds, taper crimp on auto.
FWIW...

Tom

noylj · April 15, 2008, 03:58 AM

There are a couple of things you can try if the cases are "hard" to extract from the Lee FCD.
As stated, check case length
Apply a little case lube to the FCD (a spritz of case lube does wonders)
Apply a little case lube to the cases
If it is an auto case, you need just enough crimp to remove the belling. Excess belling should not be the problem. I almost always excess bell my brass (to ensure that there is no sharp case mouth to scrape lead) and have never had a problem.
If it is a rimmed case (revolver, usually), then you either want to just remove the belling or you want to be sure that you are seating the bullet so the cannelure is even with the case mouth.

scsov509 · April 15, 2008, 03:37 PM

Check the OP date please

I'm guessing this problem has been resolved since the first question was asked.

gandog56 · April 15, 2008, 05:53 PM

For some reason I never liked my Lee crimp die, and switched to a Redding, which seemed to work much better. Hard to say that because almost all my dies are Lee, so believe me, I'm not bashing them. Only factory crimp die I ever had a problem with was the 10mm. Thankfully it seems to work OK with 40 S&W.

amamnn · April 15, 2008, 10:13 PM

I'm guessing that the use of the word "profile" was just a mistake on the part of the original poster, since Redding, not Lee, makes a roll crimper they call the "profile" crimper for revolver cartridges and Lee calls theirs the "factory" crimper, whether rifle, pistol, or revolver rounds are to be made with it. Lee also makets a plain taper crimp die.

May 26, 2002, 04:59 PM	#1
Steve Smith Senior Member Join Date: December 9, 1999 Posts: 4,131	Problem with Lee profile crimp die I'm using a Lee Profile crimp die for 10mm, and I have a recurring problem. When I screw the die in enough to crimp the mouth properly, it's hard to pull the ram back down (pull the case out of the die). It seems to get stuck, not at the top where its actually doing the crimping, but basically where the case mouth is passing the carbide ring on its way out. If I don't crimp them like this, and back off just a bit, the sticking problem doesn't happen, but the cartridge isn't reliable in my Bar-Sto barrel. Any ideas of what I'm doing wrong? __________________ Favor the X. Steve Smith NRA Life Member

May 26, 2002, 08:00 PM	#2
Redneck2 Senior Member Join Date: April 24, 2000 Location: Northern Indiana Posts: 519	Just a wild guess... but I'd think that you having to crimp too hard which is bulging the cases during the crimp and they're being Un-bulged (a new word???) on the way out. I'd check case length. I'm wondering if you have to crimp too hard because the cases are too long and the extra hard crimp makes the mouth smaller and effectively shortens the case. I use Dillon dies for my G20 and they feed fine with light crimp, but then I have the sloppy Glock barrel. The other idea I had was maybe the inner body of the FCD was cut too big and lets the case expand too much. Thinking back, I use FCD for my 45 acp and 44-40 and it drags pretty good sometimes. You can sure tell when it's straightening out the cases. Dunno..random thoughts

May 26, 2002, 08:06 PM	#3
Steve Smith Senior Member Join Date: December 9, 1999 Posts: 4,131	Like I said (not meaning to sound harsh!) when I have the die turned out just a little, just enough for it not to drag or bang (really!) when it comes loose, it then isn't reliable...it leaves a little ridge of a bell from the belling process. A possibility is that I have my belling die in too far? I know its farther than it should be, and I've been meaning to back it out a little, but would that cause this problem? Why? Cases are brand new Starline, with length exactly .985" (max is .992") in several randomly selected cases. Good random thoughts, Redneck. __________________ Favor the X. Steve Smith NRA Life Member

May 27, 2002, 01:20 PM	#6
Steve Smith Senior Member Join Date: December 9, 1999 Posts: 4,131	Sam, I'm going to play with that and see if it fixes the problem. I'm anxious to hear what WeShoot2's comments on the Redding dies are. Do they have this same tendency? __________________ Favor the X. Steve Smith NRA Life Member

May 27, 2002, 04:33 PM	#7
swifter... Senior Member Join Date: March 16, 1999 Location: So. CA Mountains Posts: 540	Redding's profile crimp die combines the better characteristics of the roll and taper crimp, as far as I know. Isn't the 10MM an auto round? I've always used the profile crimps on revolver rounds, taper crimp on auto. FWIW... Tom __________________ There are damn few situations so screwed up that adding government to them will not make 'em worse... The best homeland security is an armed & informed citizenery! Molon Labe!

May 26, 2002, 08:21 PM	#4
C.R.Sam Senior Member Join Date: October 29, 1999 Location: Dewey, AZ Posts: 12,858	Overbelling a distinct possibility. Then when you crimp deep enough to get the bell all the way out, tis maby bulging the case downlower. Just barely enough bell to enable the bullet to start reliably. Just a thought. Sam

May 27, 2002, 08:30 AM	#5
Hal Senior Member Join Date: October 9, 1998 Location: Ohio USA Posts: 8,563	If it's a Lee Factory Crimp die it's working exactly like it should be. The sticking is the carbide ring resizing the round on it's way out of the die. My .45acp, .45LC and .44Mag Lee FCD's all do the same thing when I'm applying a proper(tight) crimp to a non cannalued(sp) bullet. If it's a Redding Profile Crimp die, then you'll have to wait for Weshoot2's input.

April 15, 2008, 03:58 AM	#8
noylj Senior Member Join Date: October 21, 2007 Location: Between CA and NM Posts: 858	Lee FCD There are a couple of things you can try if the cases are "hard" to extract from the Lee FCD. As stated, check case length Apply a little case lube to the FCD (a spritz of case lube does wonders) Apply a little case lube to the cases If it is an auto case, you need just enough crimp to remove the belling. Excess belling should not be the problem. I almost always excess bell my brass (to ensure that there is no sharp case mouth to scrape lead) and have never had a problem. If it is a rimmed case (revolver, usually), then you either want to just remove the belling or you want to be sure that you are seating the bullet so the cannelure is even with the case mouth.

April 15, 2008, 03:37 PM	#9
scsov509 Senior Member Join Date: November 22, 2006 Posts: 819	Check the OP date please I'm guessing this problem has been resolved since the first question was asked.

April 15, 2008, 05:53 PM	#10
gandog56 Senior Member Join Date: May 31, 2006 Location: Mobile, Alabama Posts: 979	For some reason I never liked my Lee crimp die, and switched to a Redding, which seemed to work much better. Hard to say that because almost all my dies are Lee, so believe me, I'm not bashing them. Only factory crimp die I ever had a problem with was the 10mm. Thankfully it seems to work OK with 40 S&W. __________________ Some people think I'm paranoid because I have guns. If I have guns, what do I have to be paranoid about?

April 15, 2008, 10:13 PM	#11
amamnn Senior Member Join Date: May 13, 2006 Location: WA, the left armpit of the USA Posts: 1,323	I'm guessing that the use of the word "profile" was just a mistake on the part of the original poster, since Redding, not Lee, makes a roll crimper they call the "profile" crimper for revolver cartridges and Lee calls theirs the "factory" crimper, whether rifle, pistol, or revolver rounds are to be made with it. Lee also makets a plain taper crimp die. __________________ "If the enemy is in range, so are you." - Infantry Journal