1911 Trigger Take up

travelerBT · October 11, 2006, 02:35 PM

I just replaced my trigger in my custom 1911 that I built, and there is a lot of take up in it. I have seen triggers that have the take up tabs out there and I am wandering just how those work, and how difficult it is to adjust them.

Also, is there a way to adjust the take up on triggers that don't have the take up tabs??

thanks

Wildalaska · October 11, 2006, 02:56 PM

take it to a gunsmith. if you dont know how to adjust a 1911 trigger, you shouldnt be working on fire control parts based on what some folks on the net will tell you.

WildsimpleanswerAlaska

travelerBT · October 11, 2006, 03:00 PM

Thanks for the reply, but I would really like to know how to do this. I have built the pistol from the ground up and it is a great firearms, so I know a fair amount about building, and gunsmithing on the 1911 platform.

Just never used those tabs... so if you could please explain how to adjust them that would be great.

Wildalaska · October 11, 2006, 03:03 PM

what make is the trigger?

WildcuriousAlaska

travelerBT · October 11, 2006, 03:16 PM

It is a Dlask Arms trigger...

thanks...http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sto...LIGHT+TRIGGERS

Wildalaska · October 11, 2006, 03:26 PM

ha...gunsmith

WildthatsitformycontribfornowAlaska

travelerBT · October 11, 2006, 03:38 PM

So which trigger should I use? I just liked the look of the Dlask trigger...

RR · October 12, 2006, 07:55 AM

travelerBT, check out:

http://www.brazoscustom.com/magart/0407.htm

Please excuse WildIgetoffonbeingrudetopeopleinAlaska.

Wildalaska · October 12, 2006, 12:14 PM

Rude to tell someone who doesnt know how to adjust a trigger to go see a gunsmith?

Probably more rude if he screws it up and has an AD

WoutofthewoodworkAlaska

Hunter Customs · October 12, 2006, 12:49 PM

Brazoscustom has done a good job about explaining about triggers. Keep in mind that without enough free-travel or take-up as some call it in the trigger the gun can go full auto.
Most smiths will recommend at least 0.040 of free-travel.

As for methods of accomplising the adjustment of free-travel I've seen just about everything.
Now a days a lot of triggers will have adjustment tads that can be bent to accomplish the adjustment.
Other methods I've seen are, set screws installed in the trigger scallop on the off hand side, shims soldered on the back of the trigger stirrup, and the back of the stirrup center punched to create a raised area in the stirrup.

As for what trigger to use, I would say to use the one that you like best.

Regards
Bob Hunter
www.huntercustoms.com

rellascout · October 12, 2006, 01:33 PM

Quote:

Rude to tell someone who doesnt know how to adjust a trigger to go see a gunsmith?

Probably more rude if he screws it up and has an AD

WoutofthewoodworkAlaska

Wild you are so silly. Why would he need to go to t gunsmith. He knows what he is doing. He posts a questions about standard trigger take up and then about full length guide rods in a a matter of minutes.

Triggers are not really an important part of the gun are they?

WildsomepeoplegetitsomepeopledontAlaska

travelerBT · October 12, 2006, 05:52 PM

I appreciate the replies, I took out the trigger that I have last night, and it does have the tabs for adjustment. I was reading the article given above, and it says to bend the tabs "forward" to reduce the take up... I am assuming that forward is tword the actual trigger???? And I don't really see how that is going to reduce the take up???? Could someone explain to me how the tabs work for taking out the take up???

Thanks for all the posts folks....

travelerBT · October 12, 2006, 06:05 PM

for those who are wandering, the tabs prevent the trigger from moving forward as far... guess that is pretty self explanitory

Oh well, thanks everyone for the info! Have a great day folks!

RR · October 12, 2006, 06:43 PM

Your welcome.

RRhelpingpeopleoutiswhatthisforumisforNotinAlaska

Wildalaska · October 12, 2006, 07:16 PM

Helping folks out includes those that can be harmed by an amatuer trigger job done by netsmiths...

WildheanyoneknowhowtosutureanaorticanuerismivegotanopenchesthereandiveneverdoneonebeforeAlaska

Venison_Jerkey32 · October 12, 2006, 07:36 PM

I'm sorry wild but I just didn't get your last signature, what is

sutureanaorticanuerism?

Wildalaska · October 12, 2006, 07:42 PM

OOps

WildsutureanaorticaneurysmAlaska

Harry Bonar · October 21, 2006, 08:18 PM

Dear Souls;
I'm 70 now and you guys just went straight over my head1 But -----------------------------I don't like tabs.
Harry B.

M1911 · October 21, 2006, 08:27 PM

I just hope that TravelerBT is pulling our legs.

Either that or that he's in a different state than I.

erh · November 5, 2006, 09:08 AM

"I think you all should listen to Ken..." In fact take a look see at his outfit:

www.wildwestguns.com

"He knows what he's talkin' about..."

The only really bad advise (As I see it...) would be feeling like that just because someone has the mechanical abilities to put several pieces together, that they can safely perform a 1911's trigger adjustment from reading it on a handgun forum... IT IS NOT OK in MY opinion... I do feel that a true pistol-smith should perform this function...
Although a person may now get the "Gist" of it... For safety sake a professional should do it...
("I'm going along the lines that I'm sure you've assembled a nice handgun, but SAFETY is the key to success,
and the safety of those lives ALL around you...")

IMHO - this IS a job for a qualified "Gunsmith..!"

E!

My apologies for anyone who MAY be offended;
that is just the way I see it...
(By the way... I'm a Pistol-smith too...)

*** As someone (-V-V-) down there noted, I need to do this...

My apologies for the "Tirade..." I've been having an incredibly tense buncha weeks here as of late, and I had no right to insult anyone.
"Please accept my sincerest apologies... As also noted, this IS a public forum where people come to try & learn."

E!

RR · November 7, 2006, 11:35 AM

"Numb-Sculls"

erh--name calling. Isn't this the Firingline forum?

I suggest that you send an apology to Bob Londrigan who posted the following on his site: http://www.brazoscustom.com/magart/0407.htm, a link to which was provided on this thread.

While you are at it, I suggest that you contact Jack Weigand (a guild member), who posted the following: http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/Gun...?p=0&t=1&i=349 and advise him that he is also a "numb scull" for putting this dangerous information on the web. Finally, you may wish to send an apology to Bob Hunter of Hunter Customs who posted on this thread.

I recall this forum being one where information was freely shared. Apparently, in the past few years a number of "bullys" have appeared who feel they must protect the public from information. They don't add anything to the discussion and only serve to further inflate their egos. Sad that such behavior is tolerated by the moderators.

**Unclenick** · November 7, 2006, 05:37 PM

TravelerBT,

Without getting into the controversy, let me throw out a caution. A lot of bullseye shooters, in particular, prefer a very light trigger. Back when I was still active in bullseye (early to mid 80's), standard practice was to keep the trigger pulled while you depressed the slide stop to let the slide go forward to chamber a round. This keeps the disconnector from popping up and letting the trigger bow contact the sear through it until after everything comes to rest, same as when firing a round. These light trigger guns can fire during loading if you don't take that precaution. Don't ask how I know.

The problem, as the experienced 'smiths will find all too familiar, especially with the massive steel Gold Cup triggers more common back then, resulted from the slide's inertia jerking the frame forward when the gun locks into battery. Called "hammer following", if the trigger press weight is too light, it's mechanism can't pass the forward momentum to the trigger without dropping the hammer. This is why that massive steel Goldcup trigger requires a little spring-loaded sear buffer.

The low mass of modern skeletonized aluminum and composite triggers have largely mitigated this problem, especially for standard width triggers with no shoe added. However, I am still in the habit of testing 1911 mechanisms for it. I hold and balance them, unloaded (double-checked), tilting muzzle-up in counterbattery, by pinching the mainspring housing retaining pin between my thumb and index finger. I then depress the slidestop with my other hand. I repeat several times. If the hammer ever falls when the slide goes home, I don't consider the gun safe for general use.

My point in mentioning all this is, the longer the take-up in the trigger, the more distance the disconnector spring leaf has over which to assist in overcoming trigger inertia before it pushes against the sear. The more you reduce take-up, the more likely hammer following is to occur. Obviously, the lighter you make the trigger, the more concerned you need to be about it. As a precaution, do the test and see what happens? I advise against reducing take-up unless it bothers you or interferes with getting your finger promptly into the trigger guard while bringing the gun up on target. It typically is more bothersome if you choose a long trigger over the standard length ones because this gives your finger a smaller opening to find.

Nick

erh · November 7, 2006, 10:10 PM

I have appologized by amending my tirade from before...

Sorry all..!

E!

October 11, 2006, 02:35 PM	#1
travelerBT Member Join Date: June 22, 2006 Posts: 46	1911 Trigger Take up I just replaced my trigger in my custom 1911 that I built, and there is a lot of take up in it. I have seen triggers that have the take up tabs out there and I am wandering just how those work, and how difficult it is to adjust them. Also, is there a way to adjust the take up on triggers that don't have the take up tabs?? thanks

October 11, 2006, 03:00 PM	#3
travelerBT Member Join Date: June 22, 2006 Posts: 46	take up Thanks for the reply, but I would really like to know how to do this. I have built the pistol from the ground up and it is a great firearms, so I know a fair amount about building, and gunsmithing on the 1911 platform. Just never used those tabs... so if you could please explain how to adjust them that would be great.

October 11, 2006, 03:16 PM	#5
travelerBT Member Join Date: June 22, 2006 Posts: 46	make of trigger It is a Dlask Arms trigger... thanks...http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sto...LIGHT+TRIGGERS

October 11, 2006, 03:38 PM	#7
travelerBT Member Join Date: June 22, 2006 Posts: 46	trigger to use? So which trigger should I use? I just liked the look of the Dlask trigger...

October 12, 2006, 07:55 AM	#8
RR Member Join Date: June 29, 1999 Posts: 85	travelerBT, check out: http://www.brazoscustom.com/magart/0407.htm Please excuse WildIgetoffonbeingrudetopeopleinAlaska. Last edited by RR; October 12, 2006 at 08:59 AM.

October 11, 2006, 02:56 PM	#2
Wildalaska Junior member Join Date: November 25, 2002 Location: In my own little weird world in Anchorage, Alaska Posts: 14,172	take it to a gunsmith. if you dont know how to adjust a 1911 trigger, you shouldnt be working on fire control parts based on what some folks on the net will tell you. WildsimpleanswerAlaska

October 11, 2006, 03:03 PM	#4
Wildalaska Junior member Join Date: November 25, 2002 Location: In my own little weird world in Anchorage, Alaska Posts: 14,172	what make is the trigger? WildcuriousAlaska

October 11, 2006, 03:26 PM	#6
Wildalaska Junior member Join Date: November 25, 2002 Location: In my own little weird world in Anchorage, Alaska Posts: 14,172	ha...gunsmith WildthatsitformycontribfornowAlaska

October 12, 2006, 12:14 PM	#9
Wildalaska Junior member Join Date: November 25, 2002 Location: In my own little weird world in Anchorage, Alaska Posts: 14,172	Rude to tell someone who doesnt know how to adjust a trigger to go see a gunsmith? Probably more rude if he screws it up and has an AD WoutofthewoodworkAlaska

October 12, 2006, 12:49 PM	#10
Hunter Customs Senior Member Join Date: March 26, 2005 Location: Osborn, Missouri Posts: 2,697	Brazoscustom has done a good job about explaining about triggers. Keep in mind that without enough free-travel or take-up as some call it in the trigger the gun can go full auto. Most smiths will recommend at least 0.040 of free-travel. As for methods of accomplising the adjustment of free-travel I've seen just about everything. Now a days a lot of triggers will have adjustment tads that can be bent to accomplish the adjustment. Other methods I've seen are, set screws installed in the trigger scallop on the off hand side, shims soldered on the back of the trigger stirrup, and the back of the stirrup center punched to create a raised area in the stirrup. As for what trigger to use, I would say to use the one that you like best. Regards Bob Hunter www.huntercustoms.com

October 12, 2006, 05:52 PM	#12
travelerBT Member Join Date: June 22, 2006 Posts: 46	thanks RR and others... I appreciate the replies, I took out the trigger that I have last night, and it does have the tabs for adjustment. I was reading the article given above, and it says to bend the tabs "forward" to reduce the take up... I am assuming that forward is tword the actual trigger???? And I don't really see how that is going to reduce the take up???? Could someone explain to me how the tabs work for taking out the take up??? Thanks for all the posts folks....

October 12, 2006, 06:05 PM	#13
travelerBT Member Join Date: June 22, 2006 Posts: 46	figured it out... for those who are wandering, the tabs prevent the trigger from moving forward as far... guess that is pretty self explanitory Oh well, thanks everyone for the info! Have a great day folks!

October 12, 2006, 06:43 PM	#14
RR Member Join Date: June 29, 1999 Posts: 85	Your welcome. RRhelpingpeopleoutiswhatthisforumisforNotinAlaska

October 12, 2006, 07:16 PM	#15
Wildalaska Junior member Join Date: November 25, 2002 Location: In my own little weird world in Anchorage, Alaska Posts: 14,172	Helping folks out includes those that can be harmed by an amatuer trigger job done by netsmiths... WildheanyoneknowhowtosutureanaorticanuerismivegotanopenchesthereandiveneverdoneonebeforeAlaska

October 12, 2006, 07:36 PM	#16
Venison_Jerkey32 Senior Member Join Date: March 19, 2006 Location: Country of Origin: Texas Posts: 192	I'm sorry wild but I just didn't get your last signature, what is sutureanaorticanuerism?

October 12, 2006, 07:42 PM	#17
Wildalaska Junior member Join Date: November 25, 2002 Location: In my own little weird world in Anchorage, Alaska Posts: 14,172	OOps WildsutureanaorticaneurysmAlaska

October 21, 2006, 08:18 PM	#18
Harry Bonar Senior Member Join Date: December 5, 2004 Location: In the Vincent, Ohio general area. Posts: 1,804	trigger Dear Souls; I'm 70 now and you guys just went straight over my head1 But -----------------------------I don't like tabs. Harry B.

October 21, 2006, 08:27 PM	#19
M1911 Senior Member Join Date: March 28, 2000 Posts: 4,055	I just hope that TravelerBT is pulling our legs. Either that or that he's in a different state than I.

November 5, 2006, 09:08 AM	#20
erh Senior Member Join Date: June 17, 2005 Location: Georgia, USA Posts: 158	"Find a Pistolsmith..." (This post has been amended...) "I think you all should listen to Ken..." In fact take a look see at his outfit: www.wildwestguns.com "He knows what he's talkin' about..." The only really bad advise (As I see it...) would be feeling like that just because someone has the mechanical abilities to put several pieces together, that they can safely perform a 1911's trigger adjustment from reading it on a handgun forum... IT IS NOT OK in MY opinion... I do feel that a true pistol-smith should perform this function... Although a person may now get the "Gist" of it... For safety sake a professional should do it... ("I'm going along the lines that I'm sure you've assembled a nice handgun, but SAFETY is the key to success, and the safety of those lives ALL around you...") IMHO - this IS a job for a qualified "Gunsmith..!" E! My apologies for anyone who MAY be offended; that is just the way I see it... (By the way... I'm a Pistol-smith too...) * As someone (-V-V-*) down there noted, I need to do this... My apologies for the "Tirade..." I've been having an incredibly tense buncha weeks here as of late, and I had no right to insult anyone.* "Please accept my sincerest apologies... As also noted, this IS a public forum where people come to try & learn." E! __________________ E! Last edited by erh; November 7, 2006 at 10:09 PM. Reason: "Partially retracted statement..."

November 7, 2006, 11:35 AM	#21
RR Member Join Date: June 29, 1999 Posts: 85	"Numb-Sculls" erh--name calling. Isn't this the Firingline forum? I suggest that you send an apology to Bob Londrigan who posted the following on his site: http://www.brazoscustom.com/magart/0407.htm, a link to which was provided on this thread. While you are at it, I suggest that you contact Jack Weigand (a guild member), who posted the following: http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/Gun...?p=0&t=1&i=349 and advise him that he is also a "numb scull" for putting this dangerous information on the web. Finally, you may wish to send an apology to Bob Hunter of Hunter Customs who posted on this thread. I recall this forum being one where information was freely shared. Apparently, in the past few years a number of "bullys" have appeared who feel they must protect the public from information. They don't add anything to the discussion and only serve to further inflate their egos. Sad that such behavior is tolerated by the moderators.

November 7, 2006, 05:37 PM	#22
Unclenick Staff Join Date: March 4, 2005 Location: Ohio Posts: 21,061	TravelerBT, Without getting into the controversy, let me throw out a caution. A lot of bullseye shooters, in particular, prefer a very light trigger. Back when I was still active in bullseye (early to mid 80's), standard practice was to keep the trigger pulled while you depressed the slide stop to let the slide go forward to chamber a round. This keeps the disconnector from popping up and letting the trigger bow contact the sear through it until after everything comes to rest, same as when firing a round. These light trigger guns can fire during loading if you don't take that precaution. Don't ask how I know. The problem, as the experienced 'smiths will find all too familiar, especially with the massive steel Gold Cup triggers more common back then, resulted from the slide's inertia jerking the frame forward when the gun locks into battery. Called "hammer following", if the trigger press weight is too light, it's mechanism can't pass the forward momentum to the trigger without dropping the hammer. This is why that massive steel Goldcup trigger requires a little spring-loaded sear buffer. The low mass of modern skeletonized aluminum and composite triggers have largely mitigated this problem, especially for standard width triggers with no shoe added. However, I am still in the habit of testing 1911 mechanisms for it. I hold and balance them, unloaded (double-checked), tilting muzzle-up in counterbattery, by pinching the mainspring housing retaining pin between my thumb and index finger. I then depress the slidestop with my other hand. I repeat several times. If the hammer ever falls when the slide goes home, I don't consider the gun safe for general use. My point in mentioning all this is, the longer the take-up in the trigger, the more distance the disconnector spring leaf has over which to assist in overcoming trigger inertia before it pushes against the sear. The more you reduce take-up, the more likely hammer following is to occur. Obviously, the lighter you make the trigger, the more concerned you need to be about it. As a precaution, do the test and see what happens? I advise against reducing take-up unless it bothers you or interferes with getting your finger promptly into the trigger guard while bringing the gun up on target. It typically is more bothersome if you choose a long trigger over the standard length ones because this gives your finger a smaller opening to find. Nick __________________ Gunsite Orange Hat Family Member CMP Certified GSM Master Instructor NRA Certified Rifle Instructor NRA Benefactor Member and Golden Eagle

November 7, 2006, 10:10 PM	#23
erh Senior Member Join Date: June 17, 2005 Location: Georgia, USA Posts: 158	"Well..." *I have appologized by amending my tirade from before...* Sorry all..! E! __________________ E!