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Old March 9, 2011, 09:28 AM   #1
hornetguy
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RCBS Jr press

I asked this question on another forum, but thought I'd try it here, as well.
I have an old RCBS Jr press that I used for about 30 years before "retiring" it. I quit using it because the arm would not stay in the "up" position. Last night, I dusted it off and tried it again, and remembered how annoying it is when the arm slowly drops back down when released after the upstroke.
Anyone else had/solved this problem? I'm going to replace the wavy washer in the lower linkage, but I don't have high hopes of this making a huge difference.

I had forgotten, however, how butter-SMOOTH this press is. I love that part of it.

So, opinions.... is it just worn out, or should I re-engineer it to have a spring hold it in the up position?
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Old March 9, 2011, 09:43 AM   #2
dlb435
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This has actually been covered before. Yes, they all flop down. I made a counter weight for mine and now it balances well. Use the up-stroke handle hole and use it to mount a 1"X3" plate. Mount any kind of weight you can find to the back end of the plate. This will balance the handle and stop the JR flop problem. Good luck!
Let me know if you need pics.
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Old March 9, 2011, 12:52 PM   #3
hornetguy
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I guess I should have done a "search" on it... I just wasn't aware it was common. (thought I was "special" )

I'll look at it, and see what I can come up with. If you don't mind posting pictures, I'd appreciate it... no point in re-inventing the wheel.
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Old March 9, 2011, 12:53 PM   #4
TATER
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I use a big Rubber Band when not in use, I like the counter balance idea...
I'm going to work that out tonight. See if I can find an old window weight.
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Old March 9, 2011, 02:29 PM   #5
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I have 2 of those presses. One the handle stays put, and the other the handle drops down on. It IS annoying, but since a new Rockchucker is out of the question right now, I live with it. I like having 2 presses, especially since I can mount them side by side and size in one and seat the bullet in the other. I just make sure the flopper is mounted where I can catch the handle when it drops.
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Old March 9, 2011, 02:36 PM   #6
Jerry45
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I also have one that is 30 + years old. The handle stays up. I believe if you replace the spring washier it will stay up. You can also adjust the tension on the washer by bending it. It can be a pain in the arss to get into place when it has enough tension but it can be adjusted to keep the handle up.
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Old March 9, 2011, 04:00 PM   #7
hornetguy
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I plan to find a new washer this afternoon on the way home. It might even work to use two wavy washers together, to increase the thickness and tension.
If not, it's the counterweight mod for me...
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Old March 9, 2011, 09:20 PM   #8
dlb435
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Here are the pics of the counter weights.

I just used what ever old iron I had laying around. Lead would also do very well.
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Old March 10, 2011, 01:05 AM   #9
hornetguy
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That looks sort of like a Greenlee hole punch... kind of an expensive counterweight...

I appreciate the pics... that gives me a direction to go on mine, if the washer tweaking doesn't work.

I'm stoked! Gonna get my Jr back in operation!
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Old March 10, 2011, 07:27 AM   #10
dlb435
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That is a Greenlee hole punch. It's just what I had laying around. If I find a chuck of iron at the shop I'll put that on and throw the old punches back in the tool box.
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Old March 10, 2011, 07:11 PM   #11
howlnmad
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As has been suggested elsewhere, go with new tension washers.
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Old March 10, 2011, 09:29 PM   #12
dlb435
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Quote:
As has been suggested elsewhere, go with new tension washers.
Sorry, this does not work. I tried it and got nothing for my efforts.
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Old March 11, 2011, 12:07 PM   #13
hornetguy
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I replaced my original wave washer with TWO wave washers from the local hardware store. It was a little tricky getting them both in place, but finally succeeded.
The arm now stays up! I don't want to jinx it, but I cycled the arm up and down probably 60-70 times, and it stays in the up position now. It offers only slightly more resistance than before, but is still smooth... just takes a little more force to raise and lower. I need the exercise, anyway
I am curious as to what, if anything, will happen once the washers have been in long enough to "take a set" ... or if they will at all.
I suppose I should have taken pics of the washers first, but didn't think about it. They were just standard wavy washers from the hardware store, 1/2" ID, probably 1/4" wide, and relatively thin (.02-.03" ??.. guessing).

The original washer was thicker material, and only had one "wave"... these had maybe 4 "waves"..

Time will tell, but I'm pretty happy with it, so far.
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Old March 11, 2011, 11:23 PM   #14
F. Guffey
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Apply the leaver policy, if the leaver wants to move down on it's own, leaver down, turn the ram around etc., and install the leaver in from the bottom, when the leaver is raised the ram raises, I have a kit for mounting, the kit includes a wedge, the wedge kick the top of the press back.

Call RCBS 1 800 533 5000 to see if they still make the wedge and or offer it for sale, again, when using RCBS shell holders on a kick back press cases must be guided into the die, the slack in modern shell holders allow for alignment by allowing the case to guide itself in to the die, the slack in the shell holder can allow the case to lean back.causing the reloader to align the case with the die (on some but not all cases).

Then there is the Herters 'fix', drill a hole, tap the hole with a seat drilled into the ram, then install the detente ball, install the spring, install a set screw, tighten the screw to increase tension on the detente ball, then secure the set screw with a locking nut.

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Last edited by F. Guffey; March 12, 2011 at 10:30 AM.
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Old March 12, 2011, 03:27 AM   #15
hornetguy
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Actually, the Herter's idea doesn't sound too bad, either. A little more work, but interesting.
The only problem I have with that is that ball detents tend to wear a groove in the moving part. Probably wouldn't hurt, unless "stuff" tended to accumulate in it. (primer residue, grit, etc)
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