Marlin 336 won't go bang!

[fariaguard]

I have a Marlin 336 I purchased used 25 years ago and it has been great. I honestly don't know how old it is.

These features might help determine age. The hammer gets thicker as it gets closer to the receiver so I have not been able to find a hammer spur to fit. It has a straight no pistol grip walnut stock.

The last time at the range the hammer will fall when the trigger was pulled but no bang! The primer has no signs of being struck by the firing pin.

I have disassembled it as far as I am comfortable with (removing bolt and lever) thoroughly cleaned it to no avail.

Thanks for your help!

[Dixie Gunsmithing]

The first thing to check is the firing pin. That has a two piece firing pin, and it could be something wrong with the way that they are supposed to work. You should be able to push the rear of the firing pin in, and see the nose of the firing pin protrude out of the front of the breech bolt.

See part numbers 22 and 23. 25, is a small flat spring.


Copyright, 2016 Numrich

[hoghunting]

Does your 336 have the cross bolt safety? If it is in the "safe" position the firing pin won't strike the primer.

[ammo.crafter]

Dixie has the right idea.

Also, are you certain the lever is completely closed when pulling the trigger?

Are you using reloaded ammo or store bought?
If reloads, check the headspace, primer seating, etc.

Good luck.

[FrankenMauser]

If you remove the breech bolt (2) to check the firing pin(s), be sure to depress the portion of the rear firing pin (23) that protrudes out the bottom of the bolt (under spring pressure from part 25).
If you don't push that in, the firing pin isn't going to do anything useful.

...And that's one of the reasons why it was also suggested that you make sure the lever is fully closed.
In normal operation, the locking bolt (44) comes up underneath the breech bolt (2) as the lever closes. Just as the lever is fully closed and locked, the locking bolt engages the breech bolt to lock it in place, and simultaneously presses the rear firing pin (23) upward to be inline with the forward firing pin (22).
If any of the parts are not engaging properly, or the action is not fully closed, failure-to-fire is the usual result.


If your lever won't fully close, and no other problems are apparent (such as debris or excessive wear), check to see if the loading gate screw (43) is tight. A loose loading gate screw can bind the carrier (8), which binds the lever in-turn.


And, the easiest way to check for excessive wear that may have increased headspace over the years: (This is not a replacement for checking it properly - just a quick method for estimating.)
1. Make sure the rifle is unloaded and fully cleared.
2. Cycle the action.
3. Leaving the hammer cocked, press forward on the back of the breech bolt (2) and note the amount of movement. Anything more than about 0.005" movement usually indicates bad headspace, but you probably won't be able to see much unless it's 0.015" or more ... which is really bad headspace.
3.a. If you find it difficult to press against the spring pressure of the extractor:
3.a.I. Note (or mark) the position of the breech bolt and fully lower the hammer against the firing pin. Keep holding the trigger and press forward on the hammer. Watch the amount of movement in the breech bolt.

As sad as it is, it seems like most 336s built since about 1975 have left the factory with excessive headspace. The problem just isn't apparent, since the power of the hammer falling and striking the firing pin and breech bolt serves to push the breech bolt forward, momentarily closing the gap created by excessive headspace, and allowing the firing pin to initiate the primer.

I've seen 336s with over 0.035" of play in the breech bolt when locked. That's MASSIVELY excessive headspace. ...And the rifles operated without a hitch 95% of the time. They occasionally had light strikes, but a second hit to the primer usually worked.

Does your 336 have the cross bolt safety? If it is in the "safe" position the firing pin won't strike the primer.

Squeeze. Click. Dinner runs away. Click. ???
"Oh, I..."
Been there. Done that.

[fariaguard]

The amount of helpful information you folks sent my way was exactly what I needed to start troubleshooting. This is my first forum and I'm overwhelmed how sincerely helpful you all are.

To address a few points: The safety is not the issue and the lever was in the completely closed position. I will ask again if your recommendations are not the answer.

I feel like I just got advice from the "old gray bearded guy" (no offense intended) that knew everything when we were kids. Thanks again!

[4V50 Gary]

It could be a simple matter of cleaning the firing pin parts and the firing pin channel. Twenty-five years without a detailed cleaning could mean there's plenty of oil, dust, residue buildup that impedes the movement of the firing pin. That's my guess.

[jmr40]

You can plug in the SN and get a DOM on this site.

http://oldguns.net/sn_php/marlinlookup.php

If it is 1972 or newer just subtract the 1st two digits of the SN from 100. For example if the 1st two digits are 25, it was made in 1975.

[James K]

Broken firing pin tips are very common on the Model 336, so that is the first thing I would check.

You don't say the caliber, but if it is .35 Remington, there is another possible problem. The .35 Remington has a small shoulder. If the chamber is not cut quite right, or the ammunition is just on the wrong side of the spec, or there is a little excess headspace from wear, the cartridge will not be properly supported against the firing pin blow and you can get misfires or inaccuracy. But in that case, you will usually get primer dents.

With no primer dents, I would consider the broken firing pin the most likely problem.

Jim

[Slamfire]

The primer has no signs of being struck by the firing pin.

Agree with all, something is wrong with the firing pin. I broke one on a M1894 by dry firing. I dry fire my M336, it has the cross bolt safety, and by engaging the cross bolt safety, the hammer does not touch the firing pin. I don't trust dry firing any Marlin without the cross bolt safety.