Smith and Wesson serial number search

[Larry D.]

Trying to help a friend.
He just inherited and older S&W in 38SPL., 4" barrel, blue.
No model number yet, he says he thinks it doesn't have one.
He does however, have a serial number: 5D242**

Any help with this one?

Thanks in advance,

Larry

[Radagast]

Larry D: the serial number dates to 1977. There will be a model number stamped under the yoke.

[vapored]

I am trying to find out information on a smith and wesson model 66 with a serial number 4K56448. It is presently being offered to me for sale. if there is a better place to post my request, please advise.thank you for any help.

[Bboomer]

by vapored:I am trying to find out information on a smith and wesson model 66 with a serial number 4K56448. It is presently being offered to me for sale. if there is a better place to post my request, please advise.thank you for any help.

Year 1974

[vapored]

thank you bboomer for the fast reply. any thoughts on this gun. also will probably get his s & W 40 cal. model #4006. don't know the year on that one either. thanks for the help.

[Larry D.]

Radagast,
Thank you Sir!

[GrandmasterB]

How about a 67-1, serial# AUJ 54xx

[Boomer8404]

OK, heres what Ive got.

19-3 9K42XXX

686-1 AWY1XXX

57 N615XXX

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...4/MySmiths.jpg

[carguychris]

19-3 9K42XXX

686-1 AWY1XXX

57 N615XXX

1975, 1987, and 1980 respectively.

[Radagast]

GrandmasterB: Between January 1986 (AHCxxxx) & July 1987 (AVBxxxx).

[BillinVA]

Can you look up a S&W Model 36 for me? Under the crane it says "MOD. 36" (no dash number), and the serial number is on the butt of the revolver and is 444111 (no letter prefix/suffix.)
Thanks!

[carguychris]

Can you look up a S&W Model 36 for me? ...the serial number is on the butt of the revolver and is 444111 (no letter prefix/suffix.)

Mid-60s. The literature isn't very specific on 1960s .38Spl J frames; 295000 to 786544 covers 1962-1969.

[BillinVA]

Thanks Chris. It's much appreciated!

[PappyD]

Folks,

I am hoping you can help me out.

I have an old Smith and Wesson chambered in .32 WCF. 5 inch blued barrel, and fixed sights.

My dad got it from his dad. Pop told me he thought it was probably made in the 40's. Kept under the mattress on his side of the bed. I remember firing it as a kid, using 32-20 ammo, which I understand is the correct ammunition.

The serial number on the bottom of the grip is 5 digits- 760xx

Any ideas?

[The Tackman]

I just purchased my first revolver Model 649-3 serial CDT4xxx. Can you please help me. I read just about every page of this thread before asking and learned a whole bunch while doing so. Thanks in advance

[FlyFish]

I have an old Smith and Wesson chambered in .32 WCF. 5 inch blued barrel, and fixed sights.

My dad got it from his dad. Pop told me he thought it was probably made in the 40's. Kept under the mattress on his side of the bed. I remember firing it as a kid, using 32-20 ammo, which I understand is the correct ammunition.

The serial number on the bottom of the grip is 5 digits- 760xx

Any ideas?

Most likely a .32-20 Hand Ejector Model of 1905, 4th Change, manufactured from 1915 to 1940, with S/Ns ranging from 65701 to 144684. The SCSW doesn't provide any information tying serial numbers to specific years of production, but as yours is much closer to the beginning of the range I'd guess it's older than you think.

[FlyFish]

I just purchased my first revolver Model 649-3 serial CDT4xxx. Can you please help me.

Late '99 or early 2000.

[carguychris]

Most likely a .32-20 Hand Ejector Model of 1905, 4th Change, manufactured from 1915 to 1940, with S/Ns ranging from 65701 to 144684.

+1, two other quick notes about the gun...

1) Some .32-20 ammo is meant for Winchester rifles and is loaded hotter than what your S&W can handle. AFAIK all modern ammo is safe, but if you find some older ammo, check the label carefully for a disclaimer saying something like "SAFE FOR REVOLVERS" or "RIFLES ONLY". Using "Rifle" ammo in your .32-20HE could result in a gun-destroying kB! If you handload, the load books usually also separate .32-20 ammo into "Rifle" (too hot!) and "Pistol" (just right) sections. Choose your ammo wisely!

2) .32-20HE "Target" models with an adjustable rear sight are quite rare and have become quite valuable in recent years. Many were produced on a special-order basis, so some have been found with some highly unusual factory options such as McGivern gold-bead front sights and extra-wide checkered(!) triggers. If you have a .32-20 Target, we'd be eager to see pictures of it.

[DEEPCOVER1]

Can anybody help me with this

I have a S&W with 38 S&W Special U.S. Service CTG ' 8 on the left side of the barrel
Looks like a 5 inch barrel , Round Butt
the number on the bottom of the Butt is # 687xx bought it off a guy i worked with years ago, it came with an old holster that to me looks like an old 1950's police holster, it has small wooden grips with S&W on them, it shoots great and iv had alot of fun with it, but i have no idea what year it was made, any help with the year would be great!

[IV1982]

Hi i was wondering if anyone can give me some info on my s&w 38 special, i inherited this gun from my grandfather its very clean sows just minor handling wear. the serial number is on the bottom of the grip and it is 4D04xxx and thanks in advance!

[FlyFish]

Hi i was wondering if anyone can give me some info on my s&w 38 special, i inherited this gun from my grandfather its very clean sows just minor handling wear. the serial number is on the bottom of the grip and it is 4D04xxx.

Your Smith was produced in 1979, and is either a Model 10 or 12 (if blued), or a Model 64 (if stainless). The model number should be stamped on the frame inside the yoke - swing the cylinder out to see. You should see either 10-8, 12-3, or 64-3, indicating the basic model number and the "dash" variation, which corresponds to various engineering/design changes made to the original configuration.

[thebiggie32]

I'm looking for the year my mom's model 36 was made/shipped. The serial is 44xxx. We think it's old enough to be an original stainless steel but we may be wrong... it wouldn't be the first time. Any information is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

[DEEPCOVER1]

Ok, i visited another site and this cool guy gave me the info i needed on my S&W, here is what he told me incase someone else out there have a gun like mine.



You have a Smith & Wesson .38, Model of 1905. It was also known as the .38 Hand Ejector, Military & Police, 3rd. Model.

This variant of the .38 M&P was made between 1905 and 1906, within a serial number range running from 62,450 to 73,250.

Standard barrel lengths were 4, 5 or 6 1/2 inches. Six-shot cylinder chambered in .38 Special, but as noted the military standard .38 Long Colt cartridge could also be used in it. Standard finishes were either nickel plate or blue, with color casehardened hammer and trigger. Regular stocks were black hard rubber, but checkered walnut was offered as an option. If the present stocks are original to the gun you find the serial number stamped or penciled inside one or both of the grip panels.

Given its age be very careful what you shoot in it. Heat treated cylinders were not offered until much later during the early 1920's.

[FlyFish]

I'm looking for the year my mom's model 36 was made/shipped. The serial is 44xxx.

Your mom's Model 36 dates from approximately 1954 - information on early J-frames isn't sufficiently precise to be absolutely sure.

We think it's old enough to be an original stainless steel but we may be wrong... it wouldn't be the first time.

I'm not sure what you mean by this - M 36s were always blued steel. The comparable model in stainless (the M 60) was not introduced until a decade or so later.

[carguychris]

I'm looking for the year my mom's model 36 was made/shipped. The serial is 44xxx. We think it's old enough to be an original stainless steel but we may be wrong...

As FlyFish points out, a M36 should not have stainless finish, and S&W wasn't producing anything with stainless finish in the era indicated by your serial number. If it's silver-colored and shiny, it's nickel plating, not stainless.

Most older replating jobs are fairly easy to identify. Here's two red flags:

1) The hammer and trigger should have a color case finish. If you're a n00b to guns, color case finish appears dull grey but with colorful green, blue, pink, and purple swirls in it. A nickel plated hammer and trigger indicate a refinish.

2) The ejector star should be blued (black), while the cylinder pawls (the 5 little tabs at the center of the star) should be natural metal. Nickel plating in these areas indicates a refinish.