Wanting to refinish a S&W 642 Airweight. Best options?

[Stringer77]

Hi there. I have decided to give up pocket autos in favor of this modern j frame with no internal lock. It is my first revolver. I got it from my father, and it is growing on me. The only thing is the finish is not appealing (cylinder & frame dissimilar metals), and slight peeling of clear coat. What I really wanted was a bright hard chrome finish, but I got a quote from fords for $400 and that's a bit more than id like to spend, plus I don't want to wait 17 weeks for it. Any ideas on what i should look into, as far as a finish with bling? Originally wanted bright hard chrome with some stag handles, I thought that would look pretty pimp. Or is this in someway a bad idea? Please post your thoughts, either way. Thanks for reading.

[Deaf Smith]

If you want to refinish a 642 (I use one very often) I suggest buying another one. Just about the same price to hard chrome, NP3, nickle, etc.

Use the old one as a practice gun and get a new 642 (with no Hillary lock.)

I do have two 642s. One a "Pro" model, sans Hillary lock, I carry often and the other a scratched up 642 I got for $300, tax inc. I use it as a practice gun (and it does have a Hillary lock!)

Deaf

[reddog81]

I'd guess the 2 dissimilar metals will always have a contrast unless you use some kind of duracoat / ceracoat product.

I thought the hard Crome look went out of style a long time ago. I know it was popular back when you could go down to the local garage and they'd do it for you in the same tanks where they did car parts.

You can buy a new one for about $400. Between shipping, FFL fees, prep work, and the actual refinishing you'll be lucky to find anything under $250-$300 for someone who knows what they are doing.

[Buckeye!]

CCR Refinshing.... They do great work

[Cheapshooter]

If it's a carry gun, why? Do you take it out, and show everyone how purdy it is?
If you want a show piece to carry go buy one. Just leave Dad's old gun alone, and enjoy it for what it is. Refinishing done right is costly. Refinishing on the cheap is a disaster!

[Bill DeShivs]

http://www.mahovskysmetalife.com/index.htm

They do hard chrome, and it's not particularly expensive.

[Stringer77]

Thanks. I think I am going with metalife!

[T. O'Heir]

"...cylinder & frame dissimilar metals..." Yep. SS and an Al frame. Limits the kind of finish you can use. However, anodizing works on both.
Not much point in hard chroming SS. Or Al for that matter. Even though SS gets chromed very day because HC is abrasion resistant. Hard chrome isn't shiney like a bumper either. Looks more like brushed Al.
There shouldn't be any 'clear coat'.

[buck460XVR]

The finish on the Stainless air-weight frames is paint, in an attempt to match the color of the stainless cylinder and barrel. Sometimes the use of harsh solvents to clean the gun will reek havoc with the finish and expedite wear/peeling, sometimes it's just from hostler wear and use. Nature of the beast. Some folks have had S&W refinish the gun under warranty, there are rumors S&W will do it one time that way. I dunno for sure. Wouldn't hurt to give them a call or send 'em an e-mail before you spend your own monies on it. As others have said, it's a inexpensive, effective carry gun. The finish does not impact accuracy, reliability or conceal-ability. Last thing I worry about with my EDC, is how pretty she looks when showin' her off to others. I'm more concerned with how pretty she shoots.

[Model12Win]

I think the best looking J frames are the ones with plenty of cosmetic wear.

You know the gun has done it's job.

[Bill DeShivs]

The finish on newer airweights is paint. Old ones used clear anodizing on the frames.
Anodizing does not work on stainless!
Hard chroming the dissimilar metals requires an electroless nickel underplate.
Industrial hard chrome is neither shiny or dull. It is simply a coating over a substrate. The method of finish of that substrate dictates the final finish. Bright polish=shiny, etc.

[Auto5]

I like the contrast. I'm actually thinking about polishing the cylinder and barrel on mine.

[Carmady]

If it's going to be a carry gun I'd spray it with aluminum paint to make it lighter.

[Bill DeShivs]

Love it!

[mauiglide]

Robar is where I'm going to get my Model 638 refinished. That is when I have the cash. Ha!

[Ibmikey]

I have a pistol with aluminum frame and steel slide refinished with Metaloy. The pistol now looks like it has satin nickle on it. This was done about five years ago and it shows no appreciable wear. I could have saved $200 by buying that can of aluminum paint!

[Screwball]

Originally Posted by Buckeye!

CCR Refinshing.... They do great work

CCR does not plate or strip anodized aluminum... which a 642 frame is made of. I can attest to CCR’s work, as it is top notch, but if you want a finish like that, have to go with Robar.





Two things occurred with this refinishing, only one needed to be worried about. When they stripped the anodizing, the scrollwork on the frame/sideplate really lightened. If you look close, you can see it... but don’t do it if you are partial to that.

Other thing was similar, but more important; the serial number on the bottom of the frame. Robar told me they reengraved it so there wouldn’t be any issue with ATF, but said it lightened up with the chemical strip. Figure it looked like the scrollwork. Good thing was I had a scratch in that area from when I had Hogue Monogrips on the gun, so it was removed during the refinishing.

Being I have had Robar do a J-frame, I don’t know how other companies would hand these issues or if they would fix the serial number problem. Definitely something to consider. The 642 pictured above was done in NP3 Plus, with the 9mm conversion cylinder done after the original gun. Matches up perfectly.

[ThomasT]

I am in the camp of "whats the point"? Its a carry gun with a finish thats known to wear. But if you want a pretty one here is one with no lock for $319. I bought a 442 no lock from them and the shipping to me was around $9. This was the very best price I found on one of these. I paid $339 for mine by the way so this is a deal.

http://www.keelyarms.com/product_p/sw_103810.htm

But if you really want a hard shiny chrome I would look for a used steel gun already done that way. Just my thoughts.

[Screwball]

Originally Posted by ratshooter

But if you really want a hard shiny chrome I would look for a used steel gun already done that way. Just my thoughts.

23 ounces (640) compared to 15 ounces (642)...

If I could have got a Titanium cylinder in 9mm, I would have done that to get the loaded weight down to a standard 642’s empty weight.

[ThomasT]

23 ounces (640) compared to 15 ounces (642)...

Good point. But IIRC my model 31-1 with a 2" barrel only weighs 19oz. I had no idea the 640 weighed that much. Thats real close to the 26oz my SP-101 weighs. But the weight sure helps with the recoil.

I looked up a model 36 and weight for it is listed at 19.5 oz. There must be a lot of extra steel in the 640.

[gnystrom]

I'm with most and ask why refinish a working gun. For the cost you can own two and keep one just to look at when toy feel the need. (Just don't dry fire it because those pesky turn lines start to show.)

[pete2]

The 642 is a working gun, never gonna be pretty no matter the finish. An old 60 or 36 is pretty in like new condition.

[zimm]

Can you find someone local to cerekote it?

[springer99]

Why would anyone bother refinishing a J frame 642, etc. Probably cheaper to just buy a new one.

+ I think Stringer77 is long gone.

[James K]

A bit like worrying about the wear on the tires of your new car. Any gun that is carried and used will show wear at some point; the only way to prevent it is to wrap the gun in cotton wool and store it in the safe.

Jim