"PAC" 223 brass problems

Huskerguy · April 23, 2009, 09:33 PM

I was given several hundred rounds of "PAC" head stamped brass. Cleaned it, sized it, cleaned it again and cannot get Federal primers to go in straight. Tried several different ones and always the same result. Is this stuff junk? There was some other brass with it and it primed fine. I do have different brands of primers available. Anyone else run into this problem?

rjrivero · April 23, 2009, 10:14 PM

Look at the "A" and you'll see it's really an "M."

PMC is good ammo, but the pockets are crimped. You need to swage the brass prior to reloading it.

If you don't want to bother, I'll take it off your hands.

There are a lot of MILITARY SPEC rounds that require swaging. I have some 9mm that requires it, and I swage all my .223.

I use the swager from Dillon. http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/con...uper_Swage_600

Huskerguy · April 23, 2009, 10:39 PM

I guess that is a M. The old bifocals make it tough to read. I thought there must be something in the primer pocket. I hope to not have this problem that often so purchasing the too you linked seems a bit expensive. Must be some kind of hand tool for the job. If the brass is as good as you say then it must be worth my time to work with it. Thanks for the info

dsv424 · April 23, 2009, 11:11 PM

Husker, I use the Lyman de-crimping tool(only about 10 bucks I think). What I do is take the tool off the wooden handle and chuck in my drill and it removes the crimps pretty quickly.

PCJim · April 23, 2009, 11:15 PM

Husker, for small quantities of .223 crimped brass, a tool such as this one available from MidwayUSA will do you very well. I used this tool exclusively before purchasing a Dillon 600 swager, and still have it as backup (although I can't see the Dillon not doing the job). This link is for the reamer and handle, sold together as a "tool". The reamer can be unscrewed from the handle and chucked into a variable speed drill for faster work with greater quantities.

Hornady Primer Pocket Reamer Tool - Small

Sixer · April 24, 2009, 03:23 AM

I bought a case of PMC Bronze .223 before I had really considered reloading. "Military crimp" wasn't in my vocabulary until I got ready to prime those things. I still have about 500 cases that need to be swaged.

I started doing it by hand but it was slow going, so I finally bit the bullet (not literally) and picked up an RCBS Pocket Swager for about $30. I haven't got it yet, but I'm hoping it will make the job a bit easier. I still have about 300 rounds of PMC yet to be shot, so I figured I'd probably get my moneys worth out of it.

Qtiphky · April 24, 2009, 06:16 AM

I use the Hornady hand tool. I do small quantities at time so as to maintain my sanity and my hands. The nice thing is, once you swage a shell you never have to do it again. Be patient, you will get through them faster than you think.

hornady · April 24, 2009, 07:28 AM

I would get the RCBS swag if you are loading for an AR or similar rifle, if not careful cutting the cpimp out and you take to much, the primers can back out in semi fire and you can end up with slam fires.

Alleykat · April 24, 2009, 09:58 AM

Here's a hint for using a hand chamfer or swager: Chuck the case in an electric drill and use the drill to, of course, spin the case, holding the hand tool static. I use that method with a Lee chamfer tool, and it works great. Just takes a second to spin the chuck to secure/release the case.

BTW, I recently loaded a batch of .223s for my ARs, some of which was once-fired brass from the range that had to have the crimp removed. It was PAC, not PMC.

Huskerguy · April 24, 2009, 08:30 PM

I paid a visit to my neighborhood gun shop and picked up the Dillion, I am just now getting ready to figure it out. Thanks for the great information from everyone.

PCJim · April 25, 2009, 09:55 AM

Husker, just remember that you only need to swage a case one time. Thereafter, the crimp is gone. The problem becomes being able to identify and retain YOUR already prepared brass. Otherwise, you're back to swaging every case you pick up.

I've gone to a UTC mesh catcher on my AR's so that I don't have to go thru all the case prep every time I reload. They work well, once correctly positioned, and they same me a LOT of time.

Huskerguy · April 25, 2009, 10:12 AM

The information was just what I needed. Thanks to everyone. I really do appreciate the knowledge and information on this board. I ran all of my PMC brass through and it worked great, very quick process. Thanks again for your help

April 23, 2009, 09:33 PM	#1
Huskerguy Senior Member Join Date: March 28, 2009 Location: Kansas Posts: 348	"PAC" 223 brass problems I was given several hundred rounds of "PAC" head stamped brass. Cleaned it, sized it, cleaned it again and cannot get Federal primers to go in straight. Tried several different ones and always the same result. Is this stuff junk? There was some other brass with it and it primed fine. I do have different brands of primers available. Anyone else run into this problem?

April 24, 2009, 03:23 AM	#6
Sixer Senior Member Join Date: April 16, 2008 Location: Missouri Posts: 1,891	I bought a case of PMC Bronze .223 before I had really considered reloading. "Military crimp" wasn't in my vocabulary until I got ready to prime those things. I still have about 500 cases that need to be swaged. I started doing it by hand but it was slow going, so I finally bit the bullet (not literally) and picked up an RCBS Pocket Swager for about $30. I haven't got it yet, but I'm hoping it will make the job a bit easier. I still have about 300 rounds of PMC yet to be shot, so I figured I'd probably get my moneys worth out of it. __________________ Hopp Custom Leather <------ click for HOLSTER awesomeness!! -There is no theory of evolution... Just a list of creatures Chuck Norris has allowed to live.

April 24, 2009, 06:16 AM	#7
Qtiphky Senior Member Join Date: December 11, 2008 Location: Upper Michigan, above the Mackinac Bridge Posts: 568	Hand Tools I use the Hornady hand tool. I do small quantities at time so as to maintain my sanity and my hands. The nice thing is, once you swage a shell you never have to do it again. Be patient, you will get through them faster than you think.

April 24, 2009, 08:30 PM	#10
Huskerguy Senior Member Join Date: March 28, 2009 Location: Kansas Posts: 348	thanks I paid a visit to my neighborhood gun shop and picked up the Dillion, I am just now getting ready to figure it out. Thanks for the great information from everyone.

April 25, 2009, 10:12 AM	#12
Huskerguy Senior Member Join Date: March 28, 2009 Location: Kansas Posts: 348	thanks to everyone The information was just what I needed. Thanks to everyone. I really do appreciate the knowledge and information on this board. I ran all of my PMC brass through and it worked great, very quick process. Thanks again for your help

April 23, 2009, 10:14 PM	#2
rjrivero Senior Member Join Date: November 17, 2008 Location: NW Ohio Posts: 1,399	Look at the "A" and you'll see it's really an "M." PMC is good ammo, but the pockets are crimped. You need to swage the brass prior to reloading it. If you don't want to bother, I'll take it off your hands. There are a lot of MILITARY SPEC rounds that require swaging. I have some 9mm that requires it, and I swage all my .223. I use the swager from Dillon. http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/con...uper_Swage_600

April 23, 2009, 10:39 PM	#3
Huskerguy Senior Member Join Date: March 28, 2009 Location: Kansas Posts: 348	I guess that is a M. The old bifocals make it tough to read. I thought there must be something in the primer pocket. I hope to not have this problem that often so purchasing the too you linked seems a bit expensive. Must be some kind of hand tool for the job. If the brass is as good as you say then it must be worth my time to work with it. Thanks for the info

April 23, 2009, 11:11 PM	#4
dsv424 Senior Member Join Date: December 4, 2008 Location: Dallas, Tx. Posts: 266	Husker, I use the Lyman de-crimping tool(only about 10 bucks I think). What I do is take the tool off the wooden handle and chuck in my drill and it removes the crimps pretty quickly.

April 23, 2009, 11:15 PM	#5
PCJim Senior Member Join Date: July 11, 2008 Location: FL Posts: 570	Husker, for small quantities of .223 crimped brass, a tool such as this one available from MidwayUSA will do you very well. I used this tool exclusively before purchasing a Dillon 600 swager, and still have it as backup (although I can't see the Dillon not doing the job). This link is for the reamer and handle, sold together as a "tool". The reamer can be unscrewed from the handle and chucked into a variable speed drill for faster work with greater quantities. Hornady Primer Pocket Reamer Tool - Small

April 24, 2009, 07:28 AM	#8
hornady Senior Member Join Date: April 6, 2009 Location: SWPA Posts: 428	I would get the RCBS swag if you are loading for an AR or similar rifle, if not careful cutting the cpimp out and you take to much, the primers can back out in semi fire and you can end up with slam fires.

April 24, 2009, 09:58 AM	#9
Alleykat Junior member Join Date: July 26, 2007 Posts: 3,668	Here's a hint for using a hand chamfer or swager: Chuck the case in an electric drill and use the drill to, of course, spin the case, holding the hand tool static. I use that method with a Lee chamfer tool, and it works great. Just takes a second to spin the chuck to secure/release the case. BTW, I recently loaded a batch of .223s for my ARs, some of which was once-fired brass from the range that had to have the crimp removed. It was PAC, not PMC.

April 25, 2009, 09:55 AM	#11
PCJim Senior Member Join Date: July 11, 2008 Location: FL Posts: 570	Husker, just remember that you only need to swage a case one time. Thereafter, the crimp is gone. The problem becomes being able to identify and retain YOUR already prepared brass. Otherwise, you're back to swaging every case you pick up. I've gone to a UTC mesh catcher on my AR's so that I don't have to go thru all the case prep every time I reload. They work well, once correctly positioned, and they same me a LOT of time.