Loading 40 s&w- chicken now

[Artover3]

Hi all, Have a new G23. Been plinkin factory ammo some. Have all the loading stuff rounded up. Once fired brass and x-treem plated RN. Taking my time here getting it right. All this talk about KB's wow! I read about all the ftf problems on this site and I feel I might get lucky to get my reloads to cycle in a LW barrel. I de-glocked some brass with the push through lee die. I think I'll order a LW barrel, but in the mean time I have a lyman case guage on the way so I can check case size. Looks good so far with the calipers. I wonder though how different is the lyman case gauge to the LW barrel chamber in specs? Have read the LW barrel chamber is .425? I think I'll load a dummy round tomorrow then a real one!!!
Thanks all for the great info on this forum.

[fourrobert13]

40 is not scarey to load. I started out loading 40 years ago and mass produce it today for competition shooting. I feel others will agree with me on this. As with any caliber, start low and work your load up from there and you'll be fine. Not sure why you are running a LW barrel with plated bullets, they will run just fine in the stock Glock barrel.

[BDS-THR]

Artover, I have shot a lot of 40S&W jacketed/plated reloads in 155/165/180 gr using W231/HP38 mid to high range load data without any case failures.
The tight LW chamber won't bulge the case and will stress the brass less. It makes resizing the brass an easy 3 finger effort. YMMV

Not sure why you are running a LW barrel with plated bullets, they will run just fine in the stock Glock barrel

Well, read this warning posted on Accurate Arm's website and this thread and form your own opinions. The picture below is my Lone Wolf barrel next to my Gen3 G27 factory barrel. As you can see, the case base support near the ramp area has improved on Gen3 barrel, but the LW barrel still provides much better case base support.

SPECIAL WARNING CONCERNING CHAMBER DIMENSIONS OF SEMI AUTO HANDGUNS THAT DO NOT FULLY SUPPORT THE CASE.

A potentially dangerous condition can occur with certain aftermarket modifications, and also certain factory-produced semi auto pistols that have chamber configurations that do not fully support the chambered cartridge case. This modification is incorporated or done to aid in the reliable feeding of the round from the magazine. Although it might be acceptable for newly manufactured ammunition, or new unused cases, a potentially hazardous condition can be created when cases are reloaded a second time or more.

[Flipper 56]

With all due respect........take your time and pay attention when reloading. I was having trouble with 44 Specials at one time. The consistency was :barf:
However I started cleaning and prepping brass a little better and primer started seating easier and more flush. I was with myself. It's amazing what a little extra care will do.

[Artover3]

Thanks all for the input . LWB or not, well If I can get the ammo to cycle I think why not. Gives the brass a break. BDS-THR, I can't seem to bring your pic up. Seems Iv'e had this prob before, right click then show pic and nothing? Flipper you say consistency, well I bought unique for my loads. I loaded a bunch of it for 357 years ago and don't remember any problems. Going to trickle load for a while for the 40. Pretty sure I used the quick powder charge with it before. No choice I bought 8lbs of it. I wonder if I'll need a tumbler??? Never used one before on 357 mag or 38. What do yo guys think??

[Clark]

When you work up a load, look for the case bulge that forms over the feed ramp.

I wrap a towel around the pistol so I don't have to chase the empty case.

If I see a bulge, I stop the work up. Generally a useful load must be backed off, from the threshold of bulging, by a safety margin.

[jepp2]

The picture by Clark shows very well high pressure. What I normally encounter is brass fired in pistols with "generous" chambers. Glock is only one of many in this regard. And this is how the brass looks prior to sizing.



I have no issues with loading and using this brass. But a barrel with a tighter chamber (such as Lone Wolf) will eliminate this bulge.

[NWPilgrim]

.40 S&W is the cartridge I reload the most. I have shot several thousands of reloads through two Third Gen G23 and a Second Gen G22. Mostly 165-180 gr lead, small amounts of factory FMJ and HP. I would say about half are through the Glock barrels and half through either a Lone Wolf or Storm Lake barrel.

I load medium to max loads with W231, Unique, Universal and AA5. I have yet to see ONE bulged case, OR excessive lead build up. Yes, I do clean the barrels after each session of about 200-300 rounds, just like all my firearms.

Like any cartridge, start with Starting loads of powder and work up, do not exceed max loads. I usually try to stay 0.5 - 1.0 grains below max (same for all my cartridges).

BTW, many if not most, documented KBs are from bullet setback with factory ammo that has been loaded/unloaded many times at police departments. And these are rare compared to the total number of .40 Glocks and rounds being shot. KBs from other sources are even more rare.

If anything, I would say those KB stories should highlight that the .40 is not a round to "push the envelop" on powder loads, that barrel cleaning is a good idea (as it should be for any gun), and to work up loads in proper sequence (as you should anyway). The .40 in itself, and even for a Glock, is perfectly safe to reload and shoot within normal reloading parameters. If you are nervous about it then just follow standard reloading practice to a "T". It is safe.

[Nomadicone]

I have loaded for several Glocks in 40 S&W and have never had a problem. I currently use a Glock 35 in USPSA and have shot thousands of rounds through it. I think as long as you use reasonable pressure loads you will be fine. I also seem to remember, when I researched this there was a propensity for KBs using AA#5. You might google that. I also have a friend who tracks the number of times he reuses his brass in an unsupported chamber and tosses the brass after 5 uses. You can certainly buy an after market barrel with a supported chamber as an extra measure. Hope this helps.

[fourrobert13]

Really and truely if people are so concerned with case bulge, get a GRX die and take it out. I use one with brass I buy or pickup at the range. Still even without running brass through the GRX, I can run it through my resizer on my Dillon and they chamber fine. 40 had a bad rep back in the day, but its not as bad as people make it out to be.

[700cdl]

I load heavy for the 40s and have never seen any signs of pressure problems. All this measuring brass and worrying about barrels is a little excessive. I load 150s, 155s, 165s, jacketed with a potent charge of Longshot with amazing results. Just watch case length and get your seating depth within COAL specs for that bullet. they headspace at the rim anyway so just keep COAL at recomendation and they'll sysle just fine. I've heard things about shooting lead out of those Glocks, but I don't load lead so can't confirm that information.

[Rangefinder]

Reloading for .40 is nothing to worry about---no more than loading for most other handguns anyway. I reload and feed mine factory a little, but mainly hand cast lead, and swagged 9mm-cases into HP jacketed. I don't want to jinx anything now, but so far it's always run smooth as butter. It's always about your attention to detail. Kabooms don't happen because of any particular caliber or manufacturer---they happen when you as a reloader get side-tracked and miss one important detail along the process.

[Iron Deacon]

I've found that loading for handgun is no different than loading for shotshell or rifle. Start with safe powder loads and work slowly up. Like shotshell, handgun loads will be more sensitive to small incremental changes in powder charges than rifle loads, but that is no worry when using safe practices.

Keep distractions to a minimum, keep careful watch at every step, and you'll do just fine.

[Artover3]

Well this morning I went for it and loaded 10 rounds. 5.4 grns unique with 165 gr plated 1.125 oal. Weird though I couldn't set the bullet depth one time with a dummy I made. One load got below to I think 1.117, had to back off seater die and slowly creep down to 1.125 each time. Most were 1.123 to 1.126. Do you guy's run into this with bullet seating??? With the stock barrel I went shooting. Wrote all oal numbers down as I loaded them in the clip in case I had a problem with the 1.117 being the last shot, was a little nervous when I got to that one.
This critical oal for the 40 is new to me, never looked at oal much with 357 mag, just bullet depth.
Good pictures guys thanks.
I had a pic of the guppy shot shells but have to figure out how to send. PIC to URL, have to look into it???

700cdl What's the difference coal--oal???????

[700cdl]

I'm deffinitely a different breed of hand loader than many. First of all I load only jacketed bullets and why I do is another subject that I'll give only minimal attention to in this post. But to sum it up in short, loading with a jacketed bullet eliminates a lot of variables that effect pressures, cycling and as well as powder choices. I have never had to deal with case buldging or had a pressure issue, and I always load large charges of slow buring powders. To that regard, Working a load up for any of my firearms is as simple as looking at the maximum or near maximum powder charge that utilizes the slowest buring powder for a given cartridge, and seating it to the recomended COL. I saw a post in here from someone who said something about the data being there because its a safe tested load, so load it and don't worry. As long as you are following the proper data, and watching your Ps & Qs, so to speak, you'll be fine. I'm sure using lead is just fine and safe to load, it just introduces to many variables to the process, with the possibility of to many unexpected results for my taste buds. And back to the brass buldging for a moment. I load my 40 brass, 9mm, 45 ACP as much as 15 times, and sometimes more, before I have to toss it out.

[BDS-THR]

BDS-THR, I can't seem to bring your pic up.

Artover, I re-uploaded the picture. Lone Wolf G27 barrel on the left and Gen3 G27 factory barrel on the right. My reload on the left is snug, but it rattles in the looser Glock chamber.

[Rangefinder]

I'm sure using lead is just fine and safe to load, it just introduces to many variables to the process, with the possibility of to many unexpected results for my taste buds.

Not to hijack the thread, but how do you figure? I load tons of lead (almost literally) and it's no more complicated at all in most cases. Dialing in rifles, especially mil-surp, takes a little time and tweeking. But every one of my handguns have been cast-size-lube-load with fantastic results--my .357 actually prefers it. With the .40 I haven't even had to change powder or charge. Just curious what issues you're having or anticipating with lead.

[Artover3]

BDS-THR good comparison pic thanks! That LWB is next on my list!
No hijacking here,, just kidding. Rangefinder I shot some wad cutters that I poured out of my 357 yesterday and I like em. Out of all my molds I prefer the wc that I consider 146 grns, it's my lightest mold in 357. My question is how consistent in weight can you pour for the 40. I have wheel weights and some tin to add but don't have a good recipie for a mix? What's a good mold for 40S&W?

OH,, 700cdl looks like you have good loading practice, good to be on the safe side. Do you consider a plated bullet to be in the cast lead catagory?

[Rangefinder]

For the .40 I've settled nicely into a Lee 180gr truncated cone. +or- a grain is generally a really good run consistency-wise, I've had days where I couldn't get a pour to go within 5gr's from one pour to the next. I'm hitting the 180 mark nearly right on the money with it unless I sweeten my alloy a tad too much. I use WW's sweetened with a little extra tin.

[Artover3]

right on rangefinder, thanks. weird though the 180 for the 40s&w shoots nice, but a heavy bullet in the 357(for me) shoots with more kick that I don't need. Wish I could find a mold at 110 or 125gr for 357 to pour. Maybe they make one, just haven't looked. Going to pour some more 146gr wc(while its cool), they shoot nice, I say that because I was surprised yesterday when I shot a tight group at 25yrds. Actually I have a bunch poured up, can't remember how close in weight they were or are.
I'll check into the Lee 40s&w mold

[noylj]

Note, there is case bulge and there is CASE BULGE.
If you can not see or feel the bulge easily, the case is "probably" OK.
If you can see or feel the bulge easily, the case is "probably" not OK.
With all the action pistol shooters, you can find some amazingly pregnant "glocked" brass out there.
Maybe it is just me, but I run all my .40s through the Lee bulge buster, but I still discard any range brass I pick up that I can see and feel a bulge in.
I have had a .40 case failure and don't wish to have another.
.40 is the only cartridge where I would think about buying only virgin brass and only shooting brass that I have fired in my guns.

[Rangefinder]

Wish I could find a mold at 110 or 125gr for 357 to pour.

Actually there's a cowboy bullet that drops around 105gr. out there--I'll did up some info on it. Another option would be to get a 125gr. 9mm mold and lap it out to drop a little far. Lapping .356 to .358 would be a cinch and 125gr RN in 9mm is easy to find.

[Artover3]

Not sure how you mean lap it out, but it sounds good. Maybe with a drill bit with the mold closed in a vise? Do you prefer the lighter bullet weights in 357rangefinder? Let me know what you find. Thanks

[Rangefinder]

Not sure how you mean lap it out, but it sounds good.

Read through this thread. It should clear things up.http://www.castboolits.gunloads.com/...read.php?t=654

For .357 I fire 158gr SWC or the same that I bored for a hollow point pin that I set for deep cavity and drops at 143gr. Both work really well.

[m&p45acp10+1]

I shoot almost nothig but plated bullets in my G26 with the factory barrel. They shoot just fine. I have not had any problems reloading the brass. YMMV.