loose ejector on a kimber 1911 10mm

[libiglou]

Hi Everyone

My Kimber Stainless 2 (1911) in 10mm recently developed FTE issues and is badly mauling my brass both reloads and factory ammo. Upon inspection I noticed the ejector was loose which I assume is not a good thing. Any ideas on this? Round count is probably in the 5k range with mostly soft loads.

Thanks

[dahermit]

Originally Posted by libiglou

Hi Everyone

My Kimber Stainless 2 (1911) in 10mm recently developed FTE issues and is badly mauling my brass both reloads and factory ammo. Upon inspection I noticed the ejector was loose which I assume is not a good thing. Any ideas on this? Round count is probably in the 5k range with mostly soft loads.

Thanks

It would help if you did a better description of what you mean by, "mauling" the brass. A complete failure to eject with the empty casing jamming into the side of the ejection port? A pictures of the malfunction would be helpful. Just a note, if the case jams forward into the ejection port, it can be the extractor not the ejector.
We need more details.

[Unclenick]

The standard 1911 ejector is pinned in. They can be loose from wear on the pin, or from the holes elongating. You may need to replace the ejector, but if the holes (rear locating leg hole and front capturing leg hole) are loose, it may be a matter of getting a little shim stock in them to tighten the fit and re-pinning the ejector. I've also known people to put one of the gap-filling methacrylic Loctite retaining products, like Loctite 660. The drawback is adding to the complexity of disassembly at a future time.

[44 AMP]

The standard 1911 ejector is pinned in.

The original Colt Govt Model / GI 1911 design ejector is NOT pinned in. It was pressed in. IF it was replaced, then a hole was drilled through the frame and the cross pin added to retain the replacement ejector.

Today, some makers include the cross pin as part of the original installation. I have no idea if Kimber does, or not, but its easy enough to check if you have a Kimber to look at. (I don't).

If you can move the ejector at all, it is loose and should be repaired. A competent gunsmith can install a replacement.

You might check with Kimber, and see if fixing this on your gun is covered under warranty now, or not.

[dahermit]

Originally Posted by 44 AMP

The original Colt Govt Model / GI 1911 design ejector is NOT pinned in. It was pressed in. IF it was replaced, then a hole was drilled through the frame and the cross pin added to retain the replacement ejector.

Today, some makers include the cross pin as part of the original installation. I have no idea if Kimber does, or not, but its easy enough to check if you have a Kimber to look at. (I don't).

If you can move the ejector at all, it is loose and should be repaired. A competent gunsmith can install a replacement.

You might check with Kimber, and see if fixing this on your gun is covered under warranty now, or not.

All three of my Colt 1911's from the early seventies (and my more current XSE Combat Commander), have the ejector pinned. Just when were those 1911's you refer to have pressed in ejectors?

[Unclenick]

The pinned ejector is on the 1936 blueprints I have, so I assume it came in with the A1 revisions that started ten years earlier and that, today, would be considered "standard". I checked the Kimber schematic diagrams in this document, and it does, indeed, have a pinned ejector.

[dahermit]

Originally Posted by Unclenick

The pinned ejector is on the 1936 blueprints I have, so I assume it came in with the A1 revisions that started ten years earlier and that, today, would be considered "standard". I checked the Kimber schematic diagrams in this document, and it does, indeed, have a pinned ejector.

We learn something new everyday. Pressed in ejectors...who would have thunk it.

[libiglou]

I figured it wasn't a good thing. Kimber only has a one year warranty on their pistols and mine is like 10 years old so they will probably charge me and if I include shipping will be a small fortune. To add to my misery my oil tank started leaking today so there goes another 1k or more for that and to put icing on the cake my wife quit her job last month so the Kimber might be taking a long rest in the safe. Have plenty of other guns to play with.

[44 AMP]

If you have to pay Kimber and pay the shipping, then I would definitely look for a local gunsmith to do the work. You might even consider doing the work yourself, if you don't have to drill the frame its not terribly difficult.

The hard part is getting the correct replacement ejector. I don't know if Kimber is willing to sell their parts, or not, or only some of them. There are quite a few different ejectors available through the aftermarket suppliers.

Getting the right ejector is more than just getting one that kicks out the empties. It ALSO needs the clearance to eject loaded rounds.

I ran across a 1911 once that had that very problem. The owner had the gun for several months, and never realized it. He would shoot it a couple times a month, always the same way, a couple magazines, or so fired until empty. Never any problem. UNTIL one day, he tried to eject an unfired ball round, and the gun jammed. The gun would eject empties fine. It would eject loaded hollowpoints fine. It would eject RN profile snap caps, just fine. But a regular 230gr FMJ RN would wedge stuck and had to be pried out.

To my eye, having inspected hundreds of GI .45s in the army, the ejector looked wrong. It was one of the "long nose" ones (for the commander?)and not the one that belonged in a 1911. Gun went back to the maker, and they confirmed, it was the wrong one. "Don't know how it got out the door that way, but we'll find out! Sorry for the trouble,".. etc. Gun came back with the right ejector, works fine in all ways now.

so good luck with yours. Get the RIGHT part, its easily repaired. Get the wrong part, its easily installed but the problem may not be fixed.

[libiglou]

Thanks for the advice 44amp. I'm going to start with Kimber and see were that takes me. I think finding a 10mm ejector is going to be more difficult than a 45.

[4V50 Gary]

See if Kimber will sell you a 10 mm ejector. I bet it's not much different but do make comparison with the 45 ACP ejector. Perhaps a 45ACP ejector may be modified.