Lockup question

Branko · February 21, 2016, 08:52 AM

Recently I bought a 2014 make Hege-Uberti NMA for competition. It is very nice, Lothar Walther barrel with progressive twist, action has been worked on a bit and is slightly smoother then the Uberti with a slightly stiffer mainspring. Handling it clean, it has "bank vault" lockup while the Uberti has a bit of horizontal play.

However, after 30 or so shots when it gets nicely fouled, it does not lock up properly every time. It is like the stop raises too late and I need to turn the cylinder a touch back so it locks, or to the next chamber.

This also happened to the Uberti after 3+ months of shooting without cleaning the internals which were full of oily gunk, which I can understand and it went away after cleaning. However I did not expect this after only 30 rounds. Is this a necessary consequence of tight lockup with minimal tolerances when combined with the messy nature of BP shooting?

g.willikers · February 21, 2016, 09:49 AM

Yep, it appears you done answered your own question.

Everything has its upside and downside.
If the rules allow, try some Hodgdon 777 - it burns very clean, nearly as good as smokeless.

44 Dave · February 21, 2016, 11:38 AM

I have bolt blocks in my single action Colt clones. The result is a tight lock up but not much room for that black sludge. You might use a shot of Balistol or even carb-cleaner in lieu of a range tear down, you mam have to remove the trigger guard. Remington is nice with 1 screw.

kwhi43 · February 21, 2016, 01:14 PM

Swiss powder will shoot pretty clean.

45 Dragoon · February 21, 2016, 04:15 PM

Sounds like a little timing issue to me. The dirt is taking up the "slop" and the "slop" returns after cleaning.
The bolt is probably dropping late.

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks

Branko · February 21, 2016, 07:35 PM

You're right, it was a slight timing issue. Took it apart and tried a bit of amateur smithing.

Polishing the engagement surfaces and sides of the bolt, stoning the top of the mainspring (it wasn't straight for some reason) and top of the hand (it wasn't smooth) resolved it. Lockup is no longer exactly bank-vault tight, but it's still tighter then the Uberti. Interestingly, there's no perceptible hammer over-travel now.

Ordered myself a set of spare parts and screws since they share parts and it'll be good to have them on hand.

Hawg · February 21, 2016, 09:10 PM

Quote:

Interestingly, there's no perceptible hammer over-travel now.

Take the cylinder out and there will be. The cylinder is locked by the bolt and the hammer is stopped by the hand.

**4V50 Gary** · February 22, 2016, 11:03 AM

Polished both sides of the bolt? Besides fitting through the window, make sure that the bolt fits each of the cylinder notches. If it does, then I wouldn't polish the bolt.

Branko · February 22, 2016, 11:12 AM

Well, you're right, that was not strictly needed on second thought. Regardless I did not remove much material, it's not like I took stones or a file to it.

I'll have a set of spare parts by the weekend so I can experiment a bit, though

February 21, 2016, 08:52 AM	#1
Branko Senior Member Join Date: October 9, 2015 Location: Croatia Posts: 188	Lockup question Recently I bought a 2014 make Hege-Uberti NMA for competition. It is very nice, Lothar Walther barrel with progressive twist, action has been worked on a bit and is slightly smoother then the Uberti with a slightly stiffer mainspring. Handling it clean, it has "bank vault" lockup while the Uberti has a bit of horizontal play. However, after 30 or so shots when it gets nicely fouled, it does not lock up properly every time. It is like the stop raises too late and I need to turn the cylinder a touch back so it locks, or to the next chamber. This also happened to the Uberti after 3+ months of shooting without cleaning the internals which were full of oily gunk, which I can understand and it went away after cleaning. However I did not expect this after only 30 rounds. Is this a necessary consequence of tight lockup with minimal tolerances when combined with the messy nature of BP shooting?

February 21, 2016, 09:49 AM	#2
g.willikers Senior Member Join Date: September 28, 2008 Posts: 10,442	Yep, it appears you done answered your own question. Everything has its upside and downside. If the rules allow, try some Hodgdon 777 - it burns very clean, nearly as good as smokeless. __________________ Walt Kelly, alias Pogo, sez: “Don't take life so serious, son, it ain't nohow permanent.”

February 22, 2016, 11:03 AM	#8
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,838	Polished both sides of the bolt? Besides fitting through the window, make sure that the bolt fits each of the cylinder notches. If it does, then I wouldn't polish the bolt. __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*

February 21, 2016, 11:38 AM	#3
44 Dave Senior Member Join Date: February 24, 2013 Posts: 584	I have bolt blocks in my single action Colt clones. The result is a tight lock up but not much room for that black sludge. You might use a shot of Balistol or even carb-cleaner in lieu of a range tear down, you mam have to remove the trigger guard. Remington is nice with 1 screw.

February 21, 2016, 01:14 PM	#4
kwhi43 Senior Member Join Date: August 21, 2008 Location: Kansas City Posts: 1,393	Swiss powder will shoot pretty clean.

February 21, 2016, 04:15 PM	#5
45 Dragoon Senior Member Join Date: June 14, 2013 Posts: 656	Sounds like a little timing issue to me. The dirt is taking up the "slop" and the "slop" returns after cleaning. The bolt is probably dropping late. Mike www.goonsgunworks.com Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks

February 21, 2016, 07:35 PM	#6
Branko Senior Member Join Date: October 9, 2015 Location: Croatia Posts: 188	You're right, it was a slight timing issue. Took it apart and tried a bit of amateur smithing. Polishing the engagement surfaces and sides of the bolt, stoning the top of the mainspring (it wasn't straight for some reason) and top of the hand (it wasn't smooth) resolved it. Lockup is no longer exactly bank-vault tight, but it's still tighter then the Uberti. Interestingly, there's no perceptible hammer over-travel now. Ordered myself a set of spare parts and screws since they share parts and it'll be good to have them on hand.

February 22, 2016, 11:12 AM	#9
Branko Senior Member Join Date: October 9, 2015 Location: Croatia Posts: 188	Well, you're right, that was not strictly needed on second thought. Regardless I did not remove much material, it's not like I took stones or a file to it. I'll have a set of spare parts by the weekend so I can experiment a bit, though