Knife for elk, mule deer, bear

[GeauxTide]

I've used Cutco kitchen knives for almost 20 years and if they have a local sales shop, they will come sharpen them, free. When the hunting knives came out a few years ago, I bought one for me and a son. They are awesome, but I stuck with the regular blade that I can sharpen myself. Their warranty is the best in the industry.

[huntinaz]

Ohhh yeah I thought of another thing. When replacing blades, make sure the peg/stud apparatus the blade clips onto is free of debris and gristle. If the blade isn't completely locked in it can come off. Having a spare scalpel blade swimming around in the same carcass your hands are in is a touch scary. Happened to me. Never found the blade, luckily.


We'll mostly be hunting around Cobleskill/Richmondville area but may venture to the Clifton Park/Ballston Lake area depending on stuff. More of an experience/fun hunt than a trophy hunt but they've killed some good bucks. I'll be happy just to fill my doe tag.

[the possum]

I really like blades of all kinds, and at one time I would have answered this differently. But now, I'll just say, use whatever you like. If ya know what you're doing, reasonably sharp blades of many different descriptions should be able to get the job done.

In general, I like thin edges, on full height (or nearly so) flat grinds. It needs a comfy handle shaped to allow a multitude of grip positions, and I generally prefer an unobtrusive single guard. I like hard steel on blades used for controlled cutting. Lots of belly for skinning, though a wharncliffe works well to make the initial slits under the hide. I sharpen / touch up if it won't shave arm hair.

That said, I've broken the above guidelines countless times.

The best blade won't cut when it's dull, so evaluate your knowledge and skill in that department. There's no point spending good money on a new knife if you're "sharpening" with one of those pull-through carbide abominations.

Not everyone carries a "hunting knife" solely for gutting in the field. I've often used mine to trim a limb out of my line of sight, construct a hasty ground blind, quarter deer, kill varmints, and so on. So a bigger stouter blade would not be out of place in those situations.

[Doyle]

Not everyone carries a "hunting knife" solely for gutting in the field. I've often used mine to trim a limb out of my line of sight, construct a hasty ground blind, quarter deer, kill varmints, and so on. So a bigger stouter blade would not be out of place in those situations.

Possum, you bring up a good point. For years, I toted a fairly heavy blade Schrade because I would occasionally need it for those "rougher" duties you just described. While it work, it wasn't ideal for those tasks plus it was heavy to use when skinning. I finally smartened up and bought a little combo set that has a folding saw and pruning shears in a pouch. That pouch buckles to the side of my backpack. Now, I have proper tools for those brush duties and can use a much lighter and shorter knife for game cleaning duty.

[Jack O'Conner]

Schrade Old Timer "Golden Spike" is a fixed blade knife with perfect blade shape for the big game hunter.

Jack

[old roper]

I carry two knives and they work on elk and I like case knives.

http://www.wrcase.com/knives/fixed/s...weight-hunter/

About 1/2 the bulls/cows I've kill here have ft or two of snow and your cleaning everything is wet and that case knife isn't slipping in my hands. They fit in my pack along with Wy saw.

I have few customs,Camillus.

[Nathan]

Honestly, I would get a $35 small fixed blade.

Then put the rest into a really good sharpener and strop.

[jersurf101]

Browning makes a folding knife with a separate blade, gut hook and saw. It is not a beautiful knife but very functional if disassembly of game is you goal. Best hunting knife I have ever owned.

[Brian Pfleuger]

Thanks for the discussion gang.

I’ve gone with the Havalon Hydra.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/34...ment-blade-kit

Let’s hope I have a reason to use it.

[huntinaz]

I like the versatility there. May have to get one of those.

We expect a full report!

BTW I inventoried my blades, still have 19.

[Panfisher]

That's a handy looking knife you ordered. I have made a lot of use the last few years with an all steel set of pruning shears to clip out a section of the pelvic bone. Have run the gamut there from knives, hatchets, wire saws, folding saws etc. But like the pruners the best for now.

[Brian Pfleuger]

I shall report back, if the purchase was not in vain.

[Mr. Hill]

That's a very interesting knife you ordered, please let us know what you think when you receive it!

[Auto5]

I have a Ruana 13A that I got back in the '80s. I don't use it much anymore, but I'm on my third Grohmann.

[Water-Man]

I've been using a Cold Steel Master Hunter with Carbon blade for years. It's a great knife that holds an edge and is easy to sharpen.

[603Country]

For many years i’ve carried an old KaBar and that 3 blade Browning somebody mentioned (skinning, saw, gut hook). And when I bring a deer or hog back to the house for skinning, sometimes i’ll use a Benchmade Griptilian. And over the years i’ve used Gerber, Puma, Buck, Boker and others. The best steel so far is that Browning, which is a great knife. Used it for maybe 30years. And the KaBar is used for skinning and chopping.

If you can find that 3blade Browning, I really recommend it. I will assume the steel is as good as the two I have (got one for Dad, but he’s gone now). I’ve skinned hundreds of deer over the last 50 years, so my opinions are based on experience and not on pure opinion.

[harveyspecter]

Let’s hope I have a reason to use it. [/QUOTE]

Originally Posted by Brian Pfleuger

Thanks for the discussion gang.

I’ve gone with the Havalon Hydra.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/34...ment-blade-kit

Let’s hope I have a reason to use it. If you are finding how to zero your scope. Check here: https://www.dailyshooting.com/how-to...e-infographic/
__________________
Still happily answering to the call-sign Peetza.
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The problem, as you so eloquently put it, is choice.
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Look a goodknife you ordered, please let us know what you think when you receive it!

[Troy800]

The same knife you use on a deer will work for an elk or mule deer. I have never dressed out a bear so cant speak to that. You dont need a bigger bader knife. My current knife has a 4.25" blade and that is plenty. Cheaper knifes will work fine, you just have to sharpen them more frequently. Softer steel dulls quicker but also easy to sharpen.

I currently use a Buck Alaskan Guide. About $140 but can get it on sale around $100. It has a S30V blade that holds an amazing edge but very difficult to sharpen. I would not want to sharpen it in the field (not that I would need to). I can sharpen it at home in about 15 min with a power hone and power leather strop. Would probly take an hour plus to do it with hand stones.

[Sure Shot Mc Gee]

Gave up carrying typical hunting blades years ago.
Thought about a Havalon lately but their scary sharp for field dressing when fingers and knife are in close proximity looking for the wind pipe. Heard tell one can cut their hand or fingers to the bone with a Havalon and not feel it. If that's true? No thank you.
So I guess I'll keep using my old faithful's. My chrome plated Wyoming knife and rubber handled folding Rapala. For a cheap knife the Rapala has pretty good steel. Couple licks on a Steel rod and the blade is again reasonably sharp without having to stone.

http://www.rapala.com/rapala/knives/...=rapala-knives

https://www.google.com/search?q=meta...3mm24qFGTHTFM:

[Carolina65]

It seems that most of today's manufacturers are recognizing what I am also starting to see in my own small hunting circles; Sportsmen are not getting taught by their fathers how to properly sharpen a knife and they don't know how or wish to care for their knives. This leads to stainless steels and heat treatments that leave them harder (and thus more brittle) than they should be. Two previous posters, Art... and Jack... have already give the same advice I would give. Old school knives like the USA made Old Timers which used 1095 steel, were hard to beat if you knew how to sharpen them and were willing to properly care for them. I've been making knives for twenty years and haven't found an alloy or heat treatment that significantly improves on them, if used properly. There is a company however that has chosen this same steel though their heat treatment is a bit softer - Great Eastern Cutlery. I'd grab one of those (approx. $80-$100) and a good condition USA Old Timer off Ebay and work with those two for a bit. Good hunting.

[the possum]

It seems that most of today's manufacturers are recognizing what I am also starting to see in my own small hunting circles; Sportsmen are not getting taught by their fathers how to properly sharpen a knife and they don't know how or wish to care for their knives.

Earlier in this thread, I told the O.P. to use whatever he wants, because even knife knuts can't seem to agree on the particulars. I honestly didn't expect him to come back talking about something that takes disposable scalpel blades.

When I decided my daughter was old enough to have her own first knife, I made it for her myself. I still have to teach her the nuances of sharpening, but this thread has solidified my resolve to pass on that knowledge.

[Radny97]

I’m a fan of Knives of Alaska. D2 steel holds an edge. I have dressed several animals now with no appreciable edge loss. I’m not interested in a scalpel style blade that doesn’t give me a gut hook, or the blade size and strength to skin the animal easily, or the weight to whack through bone or sinew when needed. Moreover, a scalpel blade makes a very poor survival tool. How would I take down a sapling to set up a lean-to if needed? Or split out some kindling for a small fire? My set gives me all those options and more.
Sorry but I’ll take the greater versatility of a real outdoor blade over Havalon every day of the week and twice on Sunday.


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[Sure Shot Mc Gee]

Knife carry afield has allot to do with procedures done in the field. Gut & skinning in the field a typical blade knife is undoubtedly the most useful. But those hunters like myself field dress only. I finish up whatever is needed {skinning & quartering} in a garage. A few years back I was given a present by my so called friends (joke.) Yup!! One of those orange plastic looking intestine/ rectal removers. Surprisingly when correctly used. The tool works well. Although I found in its using its best to tie off the animals intestine in two locations in front of the tools reach. Not just one tie off.

I haven't used the gut puller tool in a long time. I'm one of those old school taught hands on type of fellows. "Get er done!! _Get it hung_Get it skun"

[johnwilliamson062]

Grind one out of a decent file and epoxy a couple scales on it...

[samsmix]

I favor a large handle. The 4" ka-bar (not the 7" full size) provides all I need.