need AK-47 reflex sight advice.

highcaliberprovider · January 7, 2010, 06:19 PM

I recently decided to revamp my old Romanian AK to make it more tactically efficient. No, I'm not discarding the wood, I'm refinishing it. I purchased a side mounted scope rail and a reflex sight. The problem is that i simply could not afford an Eotech. So, I went with a NcStar. I know you get what you pay for, but, that was my budgetary limit. I can not get the thing zeroed in. I broke the elevation screw on the first one and had to return it. Now I'm waiting on its replacement and certainly don't want the same thing to happen again. Does anyone have any advice for zeroing the sight? Is it simply that the side mount sits too high above the barrel to give accuracy?
I'm stumped here. I dont want to go with the forend mounted sight, I just don't like the eye relief.

highcaliberprovider · January 9, 2010, 09:41 AM

Hello, hello, hello, is there anybody out there? Just nod if you can hear me.
I asked the previous question without giving many specifics. I'm using a UTG 5th gen. quick release side rail. You know, just in case the optics break or batteries die (I have a hard time trusting anything with a battery in the field). When mounted the optics sit approximately 1.5 - 2 inches above the rear sight, and in perfectly straight alignment with windage. The problem lies in elevation. So, I ask again: Is this too high above the muzzle to achieve accuracy for a holographic sight? I do not want to use a forward mount. I find target acquisition much quicker with the sight mounted above the receiver. Any advice would be helpful fellas. Don't leave me hangin.

Mac's! · January 11, 2010, 12:11 PM

When you say "Side mounted scope rail", I'm assuming you mean the kind that slides onto the bracket on the left side of the receiver and locks in place. I use those types on all of my Ak's with no problems at all. I have a normal scope on one, a red dot on another and a holo type site on the third. I have not had any problems at all getting any of them zeroed. There's a couple of possibilties that may be causing you problems.
1...The site that you're using is just not quality enough to withstand the recoil without moving around.
2...The site has a lock system (Maybe) to lock it in after you've sited it in. You're not loosening the lock prior to trying to make adjustments. Usually, on that type of site, the locking screws are in the side and are either tiny Allens or most likely, tiny flat blade screws. (Jewelers screwdrivers)
3...Your scope mount is loose. Slide it on, flip the lever to Lock and see if it moves any at all. The flip lever should have some resistance right at the end before it locks.
4...You're trying to move the bullet impact to the site dot. This is actually a pretty common thing and just means that you've got the site all out of whack.

Here's two methods for zeroing an optical site. First, install the site, remove the cover, spring assembly and bolt. Then block the rifle up with sand bags, etc. so it's steady. If you angle your eyeball just right, you can see down the bore. Line the bore up on a telephone pole, street sign, etc. It should be at least a hundred yards away. While the rifle is mounted steady, adjust the site to match the "bore site". When it's as perfect as you can get it, reassemble the rifle and go to the range.

At the range, block the rifle up on the stand with sand bags, a clamp rest, etc. It should not move or wiggle around. Set up the target at 50 yards. Center the site exactly at the bullseye and fire one round. Mark the impact hole so you can see it thru the site. (Tape, etc) Now, mount the rifle back steady again and center the site on the bullseye. Make sure the rifle is mounted steady! Without moving the rifle, adjust the site so the crosshairs, dot, etc. is exactly on the bullet hole. If you did it all correctly, the rifle is now exactly zeroed for that range. Hope this helps. Keep yer powder dry, Mac.
Tuff-Gun Finishes. The Name Says It All.
http://www.shootiniron.com
Mac's Shootin' Irons.

highcaliberprovider · January 11, 2010, 05:43 PM

Thanks Mac's! I'm new to optics on assault weapons. Ive always used iron sights, simply because they dont have batteries to die. But I had this old WASR 10/63 laying around and figured "what the hell, if i screw it up im not losing much. It has turned out to be one of the best AK variants I have ever shot or worked on. I know their bad hype, but, ive turned this one into a real nasty machine. I just cant get the optics right. I (like a dummy) never thought to sight down the barrel like I would with a bolt action.....DUH!

January 7, 2010, 06:19 PM	#1
highcaliberprovider Senior Member Join Date: January 7, 2010 Location: Western North Carolina Posts: 143	need AK-47 reflex sight advice. I recently decided to revamp my old Romanian AK to make it more tactically efficient. No, I'm not discarding the wood, I'm refinishing it. I purchased a side mounted scope rail and a reflex sight. The problem is that i simply could not afford an Eotech. So, I went with a NcStar. I know you get what you pay for, but, that was my budgetary limit. I can not get the thing zeroed in. I broke the elevation screw on the first one and had to return it. Now I'm waiting on its replacement and certainly don't want the same thing to happen again. Does anyone have any advice for zeroing the sight? Is it simply that the side mount sits too high above the barrel to give accuracy? I'm stumped here. I dont want to go with the forend mounted sight, I just don't like the eye relief.

January 9, 2010, 09:41 AM	#2
highcaliberprovider Senior Member Join Date: January 7, 2010 Location: Western North Carolina Posts: 143	Hello? Hello, hello, hello, is there anybody out there? Just nod if you can hear me. I asked the previous question without giving many specifics. I'm using a UTG 5th gen. quick release side rail. You know, just in case the optics break or batteries die (I have a hard time trusting anything with a battery in the field). When mounted the optics sit approximately 1.5 - 2 inches above the rear sight, and in perfectly straight alignment with windage. The problem lies in elevation. So, I ask again: Is this too high above the muzzle to achieve accuracy for a holographic sight? I do not want to use a forward mount. I find target acquisition much quicker with the sight mounted above the receiver. Any advice would be helpful fellas. Don't leave me hangin.

January 11, 2010, 05:43 PM	#4
highcaliberprovider Senior Member Join Date: January 7, 2010 Location: Western North Carolina Posts: 143	Thanks Mac's! I'm new to optics on assault weapons. Ive always used iron sights, simply because they dont have batteries to die. But I had this old WASR 10/63 laying around and figured "what the hell, if i screw it up im not losing much. It has turned out to be one of the best AK variants I have ever shot or worked on. I know their bad hype, but, ive turned this one into a real nasty machine. I just cant get the optics right. I (like a dummy) never thought to sight down the barrel like I would with a bolt action.....DUH! __________________ "Those who hammer their guns into plow shears will become subject to those who do not."

January 11, 2010, 12:11 PM	#3
Mac's! Senior Member Join Date: August 15, 2001 Posts: 129	When you say "Side mounted scope rail", I'm assuming you mean the kind that slides onto the bracket on the left side of the receiver and locks in place. I use those types on all of my Ak's with no problems at all. I have a normal scope on one, a red dot on another and a holo type site on the third. I have not had any problems at all getting any of them zeroed. There's a couple of possibilties that may be causing you problems. 1...The site that you're using is just not quality enough to withstand the recoil without moving around. 2...The site has a lock system (Maybe) to lock it in after you've sited it in. You're not loosening the lock prior to trying to make adjustments. Usually, on that type of site, the locking screws are in the side and are either tiny Allens or most likely, tiny flat blade screws. (Jewelers screwdrivers) 3...Your scope mount is loose. Slide it on, flip the lever to Lock and see if it moves any at all. The flip lever should have some resistance right at the end before it locks. 4...You're trying to move the bullet impact to the site dot. This is actually a pretty common thing and just means that you've got the site all out of whack. Here's two methods for zeroing an optical site. First, install the site, remove the cover, spring assembly and bolt. Then block the rifle up with sand bags, etc. so it's steady. If you angle your eyeball just right, you can see down the bore. Line the bore up on a telephone pole, street sign, etc. It should be at least a hundred yards away. While the rifle is mounted steady, adjust the site to match the "bore site". When it's as perfect as you can get it, reassemble the rifle and go to the range. At the range, block the rifle up on the stand with sand bags, a clamp rest, etc. It should not move or wiggle around. Set up the target at 50 yards. Center the site exactly at the bullseye and fire one round. Mark the impact hole so you can see it thru the site. (Tape, etc) Now, mount the rifle back steady again and center the site on the bullseye. Make sure the rifle is mounted steady! Without moving the rifle, adjust the site so the crosshairs, dot, etc. is exactly on the bullet hole. If you did it all correctly, the rifle is now exactly zeroed for that range. Hope this helps. Keep yer powder dry, Mac. Tuff-Gun Finishes. The Name Says It All. http://www.shootiniron.com Mac's Shootin' Irons.