336SS Marlin

[3Crows]

Turn the rifle upside down (lever facing you) and look at the most forward screw in the receiver, the only screw actually, in the floor plate (bottom piece). It goes by different names. This screw is notorious for working loose, especially on a new rifle. When it backs out, even a small amount, the elevator will not time correctly. When this happens you can get a double feed or the round will jam locking the lever.

You do not need to tighten the Hades out of it, just put a dab of blue Loctite (242). This way the screw can be removed for a full disassembly but typically will not work loose anymore.

The loading gate screw can also cause issues if it comes loose. Again, a touch of blue Loctite helps there. I actually tighten that screw down and then back it off about a turn, so I can load the rifle without it biting me. My Texan in particular will bite the hand that feeds it.

3C

[3Crows]

Originally Posted by Big Shrek

Nice Rifle!
Upon further thought, not real fond of that Ilion, NY script...
so dang blocky...not at all like the Marlin of Yore's Script.


There is a perfect example of a JM Marlin House Brand "Sears 103.450" .30-30
which is a 336SS w/ black stock in a little shop in Hogansville, GA, spotted it a
few days ago...it's at the only gun shop in that town

Butter-smooth action, not fond of the black stock, but it could be refinished.
Price was right tho, and could probably be haggled down a bit more

That script is on the underside of the upper tang, not visible unless the rifle is taken apart. Unless I have been blind all these years (possible) there is nothing there on earlier and pre-Remington rifles at all.

3C

[Ricklin]

Loctite is great stuff. There are a couple of very important caveats.

1. Locktite and plastics. Acrylic type plastics, say ABS for instance. Don't get Loctite anywhere close to the plastic. Loctite will destroy the plastic, in very short order.
2. Heat is your friend, use your nose. For guns I use a sacrificial well fitting screwdriver bit I heat the bit to transfer heat to a screw with Loctite. A sweet odor tells you it's time to apply the torque.

I recently built myself a 3D printer from a big box of parts. The frame is made of laser cut acrylic panels.
I knew better than to use Loctite on the hardware and m printer works great. Saw more than one youtube video where the assembler thought locktite would be a good thing on the frame harddware.
They found a crumbled mess of broken acrylic the next morning.

Yes BTW, 3D printing is way cool, and very cheap. My kit cost less than 200 bucks, and works great.

[Whistlebritches]

Originally Posted by 3Crows

Turn the rifle upside down (lever facing you) and look at the most forward screw in the receiver, the only screw actually, in the floor plate (bottom piece). It goes by different names. This screw is notorious for working loose, especially on a new rifle. When it backs out, even a small amount, the elevator will not time correctly. When this happens you can get a double feed or the round will jam locking the lever.

You do not need to tighten the Hades out of it, just put a dab of blue Loctite (242). This way the screw can be removed for a full disassembly but typically will not work loose anymore.

The loading gate screw can also cause issues if it comes loose. Again, a touch of blue Loctite helps there. I actually tighten that screw down and then back it off about a turn, so I can load the rifle without it biting me. My Texan in particular will bite the hand that feeds it.

3C

Thanks Brother........this weekend I'm on it.Unless the weather cools down and the pigs come out to play.The freezer isn't completely full just yet.

[ndking1126]

I have an older blued 30-30, but I've always liked the stainless better. They look great! My boss just bought a new 336 in 30-30, although I don't know the exact model. He loves it and says it shoots great. I'm one of those people that are starting to believe Marlin has recovered and is making quality rifles again.

[Big Shrek]

Originally Posted by 3Crows

That script is on the underside of the upper tang, not visible unless the rifle is taken apart. Unless I have been blind all these years (possible) there is nothing there on earlier and pre-Remington rifles at all.

3C

Nothing on the underside on old JM's, but on top of the tang on a few models...

[3Crows]

Originally Posted by Big Shrek

Nothing on the underside on old JM's, but on top of the tang on a few models...

Thanks for sharing the photo, interesting, never seen that scipt before on top of the tang. Usually the serial was there.

My SBL does not have the script in the photos of my 336SS (bottom of tang and bolt). So it has been added I suppose in the 9 months that separates them. Not sure if it is unique to 336 models or what?



In any case, a direct comparison of my two 336 rifles, one a JM (Texan) and the other a Rem stamp, the Rem stamp metal work is cleaner. CNC has the capability to produce high level, consistent work and it is beginning to show.



The 45-70, if such a rifle can be considered a tack driver, it is and it loves BB+P even if I do not. The scope is a Nikon 1X4X23mm Monarch African. Warne QR rings allow quick access to the excellent ghost ring irons. The 1X scope though is quicker to close in target acquisition, especially in dim light, than even the ghost ring, or at least as fast, my opinion and increases the rifle's utility.

3C