Purpose Built Benches...

[JeepHammer]

One thing I don't see discussed much (past 'Show Me Yours' posts) is dedicated, purpose built reloading benches.
No 'Stickies', no dedicated discussion, no serious discussion of what has specifically worked, and the flaws/failures of adapting common desks, tables, benches to processing/reloading.

I'm moving processing/reloading to a MUCH smaller space than it currently occupied, so I'm looking for designs for benches/work stations laid out for efficiency and strength, but still reasonably cost effective.

I'm perfectly aware the vast percentage of reloaders are small volume and use something g repurposed or even clamp the press to a table or common workbench.
This is NOT what I'm interested in.

I'm aware people buy a 'Harbor Freight' or common shop bench and bolt things down.
The popularity of raised metal mounts testifies to this, and also shows the bench wasn't designed/modified specifically for the reloading process.

If you have a good design for storage, benches, moving fairly high volumes of brass around, I'd appreciate a picture & explanation of what worked for you.
Things that didn't work help too, sometimes even more than what did work so I don't make the same mistakes!

[dallasb]

My bench is a L shaped work cell. On my right is brass prep (cleaner, dedicated sizing, trimmer, etc.)

Small table between middle and right is used to hold books on top, and I have pull out racks that I keep ready to load brass in.

Middle is my loading press. I have measurement tools close by, and all other necessary tools/supplies on a shelf below the table

I keep primers and powder about 10 steps away for safety reason, only one powder/primer on the bench at a time.

Biggest draw back is I'm sure this setup wont support the volume you are looking for, however, an L or U shape work cell is one of the most efficient setups as you spend less time walking and more time working. Hope this helps

-Dallas

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[F. Guffey]

I'm aware people buy a 'Harbor Freight' or common shop bench and bolt things down.
The popularity of raised metal mounts testifies to this, and also shows the bench wasn't designed/modified specifically for the reloading process.

Common benches for the common man; common, those are my people. And then there is what I do and those things that work for me; now I will tell you that could be expensive for most.

Pictures? I posted pictures, not a lot of pictures but after positing pictures of a couple of cabinets with contents no one spoke to me for 6 months (with the exception of UNCLENICK).

F. Guffey

[GWS]

Several requested that I post bench plans for what I called a Torsion Beam Bench, based on what I built for me, but simpler to build.

The goal behind the design, was.....could a simple, easy to build, inexpensive design be as solid and un-moving as one built with expensive materials.

Would not dream of saying it fits all, but many have built these and seem to be pleased. THR has the plans downloadable in their "resources" below:

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.ph...ench-how-to.6/

As for efficiency.....I would prefer a corridor work space with benches on each long side.....IOW's I don't much care for corners (too much wasted space).....but one uses what you have. The idea is to be able to sit! swivel! slide! and work anywhere long the corridor. I like and use a drafting chair, the not only swivels and rolls, but the back leans back for comfort.

By corridor I'm thinking a 24" deep bench on opposite walls with a 42" to 48" corridor between. Rather than another bench on an end, I would build a door closed closet at one end, with insulated walls to put NOISE. No not my kids.....my tumblers, my air compressor, and my shop vac (piped with outlets in various places along the benches.)

Lighting? Florescents are obsolete. Recessed Can-lights every 2' feet with LED's in them are brighter, easier to change, and don't radiate your electric scales.

[T. O'Heir]

A reloading bench is a regular 'common' work bench with a press bolted to it.
There's no such thing as "designed/modified specifically for the reloading process". A bench is a bench. It becomes a loading bench when you bolt the press onto it.
"...I'm moving..." Means you need more storage for the stuff you don't use all the time. Vs having it all on the bench all the time. That'd be stuff like trimmers and case prep tools. And there are hordes of posts regarding small space reloading.
"...Fluorescents are obsolete..." More about the cost and size of 'em combined with the greater amount of light from LEDs.

[kmw1954]

Only limited by your own imagination. One gentleman I was speaking with had a small closet under a stairway that was big enough to walk in and had a door he could lock. Another took a steel cabinet like would be used in a garage to put large tools like shovels and rakes in. Again he added shelves and a thicker bench top and when not in use he is able to close it up and lock it.

I have to sit while loading because of issues with my legs so what I have may not work for many.

I salvaged 2 old kitchen base cabinets, one with four drawers and one with one top drawer and an open door on the other. Next I recycled a 1.125" high density commercial desk top that is Formica laminated to use as my bench top. On the sides of the cabinets I mounted a 2"X2" board though bolted into tee nuts inside the cabinets. To this I screwed the top to. The top of the bench is at 30" from the floor. I then used 3/4" plywood to cover the tops of the cabinets. I have about $5.00 invested in this as the cabinets and desk top were free.

[hounddawg]

I built this bench last fall specifically for reloading. I knew what equipment I had and how much space so I designed it around that.

I included two features that really made life easier. The first one is if you look where I have the pad pulled back you will see I drilled 1/2 inch holes every 10 inches across the bench. All the trimmers etc on the shelves behind have a 1/2 inch holes somewhere in its base and I keep some 1/2 bolts and wingnuts in a container to quick mount whatever equipment or press I want to use.

The second feature that comes in real handy is the piece of 1 inch by 1/16 aluminum I have mounted on the front, I used washers behind the mounting screws to give it about 1/16 inch standoff from the bench and you can clip on those cantilevered colored storagre bins anywhere on the front for cases, bullets or whatever

edit - make that three featuresthat make life easier. There is a 48 inch long surge protected power strip along the back.

[JeepHammer]

Thank you Hounddawg.
While the removable press/bins make for removing the hip/elbow busters, that didn't work for me in the past.
The power strip is something I do myself, I can turn everything off with the flip of one switch and I REALLY find that handy to be able to shut down the entire workstation at once.

I have tool heads that have to be protected since they have dies, powder droppers etc so I need longer shelves that protect that stuff.

GWS, thanks for the link.
Your design seems quite sturdy, but slightly complicated.
I don't mind complicated if it fits the purpose & lasts.

I'm certainly not a cabinet maker, I can struggle through rough carpentry, but I think I need more back & sides for tools within easy reach...

So far, this is the most simple, easiest to assemble and cheapest design that doesn't move around without being bolted to the floor & wall.
Without a cantilevered press hanging out over the edge of the table/legs, it doesn't rock.
Being just 24" deep, everything is within easy reach.
A power strip under the top, on the cross brace under the presses, no cords or plugins on the bench top.

http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/...psfdtjlssm.jpg

The hinged shelf protects die sets & tools in tool heads, notice brass pins for dedicated case holders, case gauges & other tools used during loading.

http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/...psfmvg2ldq.jpg

This is shelf in the 'Up/Locked' position.

http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/...psqsknyyh1.jpg

The top was adjusted for height so the handle was even/below shoulder from a common office chair, allowing me to keep both feet flat on the floor.
The inset presses stop bench rocking & allow full handle stroke without having to lean forward at top/bottom of the stroke.

The tool/tear down press is handy so culled rounds don't lay around, no potential for getting mixed in with QC passed ammo.

It's not 'Pretty', but it has all tools within easy reach, loads of storage under the bench, holes/bolts in top to attach trimmers and other lesser used tools.

This is the first evolution of a dedicated reloading station, I've adjusted the design a little for 1050, other driven processing machines. This 'Boxed' design keeps the tool heads with their respective presses, and keeps specific components/parts from getting mixed up or walking off.

Since the 1050/case roller, case neck qualifier, annealing machine, ect all have different height/top strength, spare parts/caliber change requirements, those benches have been adjusted to accommodate.

For 2 sheets of 3/4" plywood, 3 'Economy' wall studs (2"x4" or 2"x3") and 1"x6" or 1"x8" for shelves, some deck screws, this is dirt cheap and solid as you want it to be.

If you guys have recommendations or ideas that will make it more productive, please comment/post pictures!

[hounddawg]

Thank you Hounddawg.
While the removable press/bins make for removing the hip/elbow busters, that didn't work for me in the past.

I understand Jeep. This setup is not stiff enough for any major case reforming. For my reloading though it works fine. I am not resizing belted magnums or turning .220 Russian into 6PPC or anything like that.

Another suggestion for anyone designing or building from scratch is to go with the plastic storage bins rather than building pull out drawers. Simpler to design and build and easier to organize and locate stuff in.

[old roper]

I had some metal brackets made for my reloading bench. They are triangle shape, bench top is 24" wide down the wall is 38" and other is welded to both ends. I bolt the brackets to studs and bench is L shape 12'x4' and I used 2x6 T&G bolted with 1x24" wood top. I bolted press to one of the brackets.

We had house build 1993 so that bench is 25yrs old. Those triangle bracket let me make shelves so did that few sections and bolt heads hold it in place.

[JeepHammer]

I agree!
Drawers are fine if they are right under your line of sight and there isn't anything in the way (like the press!).
I don't want to stand on my head or drag out a step stool to see what's in the drawers...

I have a Cleaning/Spare parts bin that hangs on the press when it's time for that function...
I don't have to hunt for tools/parts when they are hanging on the press.

Not to sound like Mr. Guffy, I use an arbor press for swaging bullets, and after having the bench move around for years, I finally wised up, threw a farm cultivating disk blade on the floor and welded a 4"x4" post to it that supported the press. No more flex or bench walk...
Can't believe it took me YEARS to do that, the bench had 4"x4" hardwood legs, but the top flexed and the top extended past the legs about 8".
Add the height of the press over the bench & the length of the handle (and sometimes cheater bar) and it cantilevered the table quite a bit...

Bang an artificial hip or knee (and scar) on anything sticking out and you will QUICKLY learn to HATE anything sticking out there, and it doesn't allow easy closing up off the work station.
I have a soldering/brazing station, gold, platinum, silver wire, that I used hatch back gas pistons to lift a lockable top. I trust employees, but why tempt them? I don't trust random customers, visitors, etc.

I do like your bin attachment strip, that's an idea I'm going to steal! (I know a good idea when I steal it )

A couple of things I've added,
I go buy the China junk tools store and dig through the $5 bin for the metal screwdriver racks that mount on a wall. They are great for cleaning rods & Dillon/Frankfort primer tubes.
The eBay sellers & Brownells/Midway wants about $25 each, while they are $5 at the junk tools store.

Since I'm off grid for the most part, electrical consumption is a concern.
Instead of the 'Reloading' light kits, I've started looking at 'Sewing Machine Lights' on eBay,
Cut off LED strip lights with power source for $5, magnetic base 30 LED lights for $5 with plug, cord & switch.
Those little bright magnetic base lights are just perfect for reloading, I have them stuck to case feeders, machines, anywhere there isn't moisture (coolant for milling machines).
Just great for reloading and small project light.

No one wants a bare wood screw sticking out to hang things on, I drill out the primer hole in scrap brass and use them as standoffs & covers for common screws. Brass isn't going to dig into or scratch up much and on a reloading bench it's kind of cool. Sure beats that pegboard wire look of most hangers too.

[JeepHammer]

GWS,
The only way to use a corner to any effect is a carousel/turntable.
It's still going to be a dirt & junk collector in my experience...

Anything below the bench top is hard to access, if you put cabinets above the bench top they are hard to access.
I've seen the carousel tool head tables, I guess that might let you use some of a corner...

I'm moving into a space that's long, but about 7'6" wide. Power will be limited since I'm off grid and I won't have the shop power any longer without major digging for lines, which I don't want to do.
I've pretty well got the power problem whipped, sticking to 110VAC tools.
The benches will be the issue since they pretty much have to be moved in through a common door (32")

Since I don't want to bolt to walls or floor (not everyone builds with drywall/studs) the benches have to be self supporting...
And there lies the rub!

[hounddawg]

I go buy the China junk tools store and dig through the $5 bin for the metal screwdriver racks that mount on a wall. They are great for cleaning rods & Dillon/Frankfort primer tubes.

and I am going to steal that idea, beats the heck out of tossing the primer tubes in a bin.

I keep all my currently in use brass in those little clip on bins, I caught a sale at Northern where you got 25 of various sizes and a wall plate for 20 bucks. I put the wall plate in my "one of these days I might need that junk pile" and just use the bins to separate and hold brass in various states of preparation. To give credit where credit is due that was the wife's brainstorm to replace my ziplock bag storage system.

When priming, depinning, loading powder etc I just clip one bin on the front with the "to be dones" and another for the "done brass". I only have about 18 inches by 36 inches of usable bench top so it really helps free up bench space

[Brian Pfleuger]

The reloading bench I built in my home in NY was pretty small (about 5’x2.5’), but I swear it could have been a tornado shelter and it cost very little. I might have spent $40.

I had walls on 3 sides. I screwed 2x4s on all 3 at the appropriate height and then one across the front, screwed to the ones on each side. I then ran a bead of liquid nail all the way around and put down a piece of 3/4” plywood, running screws every foot or so all the way around. The weak point was then the center front, as it had the 5’ span with “no support”, relatively speaking. So, I cut a 2x4 to run diagonally from the center front to the rear wall/floor. Cut so it was “on edge” and screwed both to the 2x4 and the plywood.

It was the definition of rock solid.

I then purchased cheap plastic cabinet/drawers and attached them to the rear wall. Powders and primers on top, drawers organized everything else.

[Metal god]

JH , It's really all about what is best for you and even then that changes based on the space available

Here is an old pic of my set up , There's much more in the area now but that's the space I have to work with



As you can see It's a small space but I've made it so everything surrounds me and I need very little movement to get to everything . I love my set up but life is happening around me ( literally ) and I am choosing to move out of that room and into my basement for reloading . The thing is the basement has much more room which is actually making it harder to set up the way it is in my current reloading room This is really irritating because it took years to get my reloading room just the way I like it and my brain is not letting me look past what I have now to what may actually be better if I just let go and except the new space .

My point is only you know what you need and even then we don't really know what we need or works best until we work in the space for awhile . Like I personally love the idea of desks in my reloading room . I have very heavy solid desks that are reinforced that I lag bolt to the walls and this makes them rock solid . I also like the idea of the drawers to keep all my dies , blocks , funnel , comparators and gauges in .






How ever many folks don't like to sit while they reload or a desk is to restricting of a space but it's perfect for what I use now . But now I'm actually thinking about loosing the desks and building a dedicated bench system in the basement but I love my system now .

You say you're down sizing , from what to what and how much brass are you talking that needs to cross your bench ? If I recall you're talking hundreds of thousands of cases correct ? I don't think my little 7'x3' desk is going to do that lol . Depending on the space my guess is you need a smaller type bench system around the edges/walls while having a large center island/bench to process the brass ??

[Nathan]

To me, what makes a reloading bench a reloading bench is how it is setup. A workbench will always be less than optimal. A desk will always have some flex. Lag’d to the wall reduces your ability to move it.

Start with the process. How do you want an evening of reloading to go? What is required? What is handy? Do you need a tv/radio/iphone connections? Electrical outlets on the bench? Lighting? Standard processes should be readily available. Optional things like runout measuring tools should be within reach. Powder scale should be isolated.

[JeepHammer]

Processing is separated from my reloading. That's the idea of work stations.
I don't have 'Distractions' when I'm reloading, no radio/tv/internet/phone.
(My 'Fortress Of Solitude')

What I'm having an issue with is humidity. Summer in Indiana is a case of 'The Air You Wear'.
The shop is simply too humid since I'm off grid, I don't have air conditioning in the shop and dehumidifiers don't work when big doors open...

I have a spot that is cool, dry (with dehumidifiers), quite, fairly temprature stable and currently unused...
Temps run between 65-75*F.
It has steel walls, so no screwing to the walls without a welder.
Concrete floor, so no screwing to the floor without a hammer drill.
This used to be secure storage, but it's not been used in about 3 years so apparently I'm not getting the contract back that required secure storage.
I'm actually quite excited to have my own dedicated reloading space, it's always been where ever I can wedge a bench/workstation in, my office, my spare bedroom, a yard barn at one point (talk about rust!).

Processing on the near to the door end, cleaning outside (cement mixer),
It's pretty simple, case neck qualifier, Camdex or 1050, case roller, annealer right in a line.
I'll have to run power to Camdex, but if I have enough volume I'll fire it up.
Most times it's 1050 for processing, roller for lower case, what a top down die won't reach, then it's one station down for annealing.

I've traditionally neck qualified on a roll cart because some bins are too big to move without a fork truck.
Once qualified, they go on smaller roller bins to processing.
I can use narrower roller bins if I need benches or shelving on both sides.

With the surplus of 5.56 & 7.62 processing is slowing down, while shop builds are off the charts.
(I bought before the tariffs, so I'm good for about two months)
The current build (boat docks of all things) takes up a TON of room... Job before hobbies.

MG, no such thing as too much storage!
Shelving is my weakness, I'd hang shelves on a Harley if it didn't look stupid (I have floorboards and luggage rack!)

I'm going to drag the welder in there for shelving above where I won't bust my head on it.
Those industral kitchen shelving units are handy, I have several and when I figure out where to put the junk on them I'm going to pirate them for this 'Man Cave'.
A bolt in the corners of the slip shelving keeps the shelves from moving, so you can even mount them up high.

The older desks with solid tops work fine, there are a bunch of wood working factories in the next town over, and I've used several desk top for benches, but in the shop the first time oil or coolant leaks and gets into the chip core, they fall apart.
I might consider them for a reloading bench, that hadn't occurred to me since I quit using them in the shop.

Right now it's build fast so I can get crap moved out of the way of paying jobs.

[jmorris]

Best one I have made so far was an 18” deep steel bench that has a 5” truss surrounding the perimeter. Post #2 in this thread.

https://thefiringline.com/forums/sho...ighlight=truss

[Mobuck]

My "reloading area" began with a sheet of 1" x 4'x9' MDF. I split it lengthwise and doubled it for the top. It's supported by 2x4 on 24" spacing securely attached to a bottom plate screwed to the concrete basement floor and bolted to the 1st floor joists with horizontals and 2x4 legs at the front. Half way between floor and bench top are cross braces which support a shelf for supplies. the structure is stiffened by 1/2" wafer board dividers above the mid-height shelf. All in all, it's a very substantial bench. Just guessing there's approx 300-400 # of bullets on the mid-height shelf plus hundreds of cases.

[dahermit]

A reloading bench is a regular 'common' workbench with a press bolted to it.
There's no such thing as "designed/modified specifically for the reloading process". A bench is a bench. It becomes a loading bench when you bolt the press onto it.

Gosh, and here I thought that when I built my bench (2x2 angle iron, with hot-rolled steel gussets welded on) for the specific purpose of being able to stand comfortably while handloading using my 550b with home-made strong mount and the "U" shaped modification I cut into it that I reinforced with a steel plate to distribute the forces of operation of my RCBS Jr. press, that I was making a "no such thing".
Did I mention the captive bolt system I made to allow switching between leaving bare the area where I mounted the RCBS Jr. or use that place for my Lyman 450 Lube/sizer? Nope, no " designed/modified specifically for the reloading process", here.

[JeepHammer]

Brian,
The triangulated brace you wrote about used to be standard on about all work benches in feed mills, repair shops, etc when actual hard wood was available. I've seen a crap ton of them in old buildings and they are still solid as a rock 100+ years later!

I went that way in my car garage, makes for much easier movement of heavy stuff, big jacks, engine stands, helps with close movement in close quarters.
It also keeps the knee knockers to a minimum so you can have a brace right under the machine and you can still use a chair where your legs are under the bench a little.

J.Morris,
You knocked it out of the park AGAIN!
That triangulated ladder under the bench top looks great!
I need something one man can move without help in tight quarters, rollers maybe?

I'm all for electrical outlets under the bench, and plenty of them!
I also use either an outlet strip or outlets with a common power switch.
My very first wiring mistake on a bench was facing the outlet up, and promptly drooled sealer in it.
Later (Same bench) I managed to shoot a spring out of a workpiece, and Mr. Murphy made sure it landed in the outlet... I learned SLOWLY, but I learned...

Dahermit,
That was my thought also.
To me, it's an idiotic idea NOT to modify your work station for specific tasks.
I'm not cooking, eating, sewing, doing surgery & mending harnesses on the one table I own, this isn't 1492...
It's 2018 and things are specialized. My wife has a sewing table, a craft table, a kitchen table, a laundry table, etc.
We even have a canning table set up for food processing equipment...
(It's canning season! My favorite time of the year is when the garden comes in!)

A dedicated bench/table saves time and prevents distractions, distractions being the biggie.

Thanks in general to all, I got some ideas!

[dahermit]

Dahermit,
That was my thought also.
To me, it's an idiotic idea NOT to modify your work station for specific tasks.
I'm not cooking, eating, sewing, doing surgery & mending harnesses on the one table I own, this isn't 1492...
It's 2018 and things are specialized. My wife has a sewing table, a craft table, a kitchen table, a laundry table, etc.
We even have a canning table set up for food processing equipment...
(It's canning season! My favorite time of the year is when the garden comes in!)

A dedicated bench/table saves time and prevents distractions, distractions being the biggie.

In my case the handloading bench was built for that dedicated purpose...it did not start out life as a workbench then modified. 2x2 angle iron legs (levelers welded to the leg ends), welded steel plate fillets, ash frame and top boards.

[MarkCO]

I built a bench. 1" butcherblock over cabinets. Dillon 650 on the left, Rockchucker on the right. Shop vac hung on the other side of the wall outside with a switched plug inside and vac hose through wall. Same with compressed air, that is piped from the garage. Small wetbar type sink across the room and a closet for hunting and range clothes storage. I added some wall systems to hang stuff and a cabinet for storage to the side. I added the bullet cabinet later as I tried to free up some other shelf space in the room. Those are just salvage part bin drawers from a big box store that had nuts and bolts and such in them. They work great.

It is mounted to the studs with 2" angle iron in the back and sides. Rock solid.

[jmorris]

I need something one man can move without help in tight quarters, rollers maybe?

If you put casters on it they need to be on a lever so you can “drop” the benchdown on feet so it’s stable enough to use. I built a work bench in the shop that is done this way and have a rolling stair case that also operates this way.