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Old August 12, 2021, 09:36 PM   #26
shurshot
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I took an accidental bath in the river while fly fishing earlier this summer. Right up to my neck. My S&W 586-3 was in an IWB holster. Chipped the wood target grips as my tailbone hit the rocks on the way in.
Got home, sprayed it inside (via behind trigger, sides of hammer, etc.), till it was dripping with WD-40, then removed the grips and gave it a 45 min bath in 5W30 motor oil, throughly working the action several times. After wiping it off and allowing it to drip dry some more overnight, I swear the action is smoother now than it was before! Bluing even looks better.
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Old August 12, 2021, 10:31 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.RevolverGuy
Comprehensive Corrosion Test 48 Different Products.
The author doesn't know what he's writing about.

Quote:
The process of evaluating water displacement is as follows.

1. A container is partially filled with water

2. Raw product (from its original container) is introduced to the water filled container.

3. The product is observed and noted as to whether it displaced (penetrated, broke the surface tension) of the water or whether it simply rested on top of the water.

It should be noted that the ability of a product to displace water does not automatically imply that it will inhibit rust or provide lubrication. A rock or brick (if placed in a container of water) will displace water but will offer no corrosion protection or lubrication. Simply because a product can actually displace water does not automatically translate into corrosion inhibiting or lubrication properties.

Rust inhibiting and lubrication will be evaluated separately but so many of the products made a point of claiming water displacing properties that I thought it worth evaluating. In the grand scheme I dont know if water displacing is going to amount to a hill of beans since lubrication and corrosion fighting can take place even if the product does not displace water but so many of the products made the displacement claim that I opted to evaluate it.
Oil floating on water isn't a question of "breaking the surface tension" of the water. It's a question of density/specific gravity. Oils are less dense (lower specific gravity) than water, so they rise to the surface and float on top.

http://avstop.com/ac/Aviation_Mainte...ges/fig3_1.jpg
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Old August 12, 2021, 10:55 PM   #28
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As I have said many times here- I have a little squirt bottle that I filled wit WD 40 about 8-10 years ago. It sits in my vault. As of today-same as many years ago-all the carrier has evaporated and what is left is a light mineral oil. No varnish, no drying up.
I wonder how many of these "experts" that diss WD 40 have done an experiment like that? I wonder how many have used it for 50 years like I have?
Yes, it was designed as a water displacer. It displaces water with mineral oil in a carrier- the very same mineral oil that is in most "gun oils."
While there are better lubricants, one could do a lot worse than having a can of WD 40 around.
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Old August 12, 2021, 11:44 PM   #29
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one could do a lot worse than having a can of WD 40 around.
I agree, I met a guy many years ago who claimed he used it on his back when it would act up, who knows. The problem with WD-40 it doesn't last but in a pinch it's probably better than spit.

But the honest truth with all this oil this and oil that is merely hillbilly tripping over nickels to only save pennies.
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Old August 13, 2021, 12:23 AM   #30
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Ed Harris recommended using automatic transmission fluid for lubricating guns. I've been using it for years and I still have 2/3s of a bottle left.

When lubing calls for grease, I use extreme pressure lube made for auto constant velocity joints. It's sold in smaller containers than other greases and works very well. I keep it around for all sorts of things that need a little grease...

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Old August 13, 2021, 12:53 AM   #31
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If you want to use an automotive product, ATF is probably better than motor oil. Except for the red coloring, I suppose.

Not that either one is really a great choice--but then the lubrication needs of firearms that can be met with oil aren't especially stressing.

I've gotten to where I look for the following properties in a gun lubricant.

1. Low or no odor.
2. Non-toxic or low toxicity once applied.
3. Good corrosion protection.
4. Doesn't stain.
5. Works well when used sparingly and stays in place so it doesn't get splattered onto shooting glasses or end up soaking into holsters or clothes.
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Old August 13, 2021, 01:23 AM   #32
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Several years ago I bought my 3 vat ultrasonic. I use oil in one vat. Each vat holding about 1.5 gal, that required volume. Lucas sells gun oil in the 5 gal size. Having previously bought a one gal of Brownell’s oil, between the two I’m done chasing oil by brand. Now if I buy oil, I buy it for the container or for a special purpose. Lucas also sells a container of grease that will carry you ‘til the Klingons get here. A hobbyist gunsmith and general purpose workbench needs light, medium and heavy oil and some grease. Applicators and containers are dependent on what and where you need to stop the squeak, preserve the device or save the flux gate capacitor. Solvents are also a handy thing to safely have on hand. Some are safer than others but Safety Data Sheets were invented because someone did not play safe with their bench chemicals. Folks who grew up with solvents or worked with them consider them essential…..but in a combat environment you can get by with oil and jet fuel from the crash site.
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Old August 13, 2021, 05:34 AM   #33
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Remember into the first of the 20th Century,and maybe into WW2, Sperm oil from whales was the finest instrument oil,the sort of oil that would be used in a fine watch.
Yes,oils and lubes are engineered for specific applications. For the life of me I can't figure out why people lay awake at night trying to figure out which oil engineered for a different purpose would make better gun oil than gun oil.
Remarkably,the criteria used to select this magic oil,whether Mobil 1 or ATF or whatever,is about what "Feels" like a good idea.

You could get by as well with Vaseline and baby oil.(Probably) Those just aren't "cool"
Most machine shops I've worked in relied on two lube oils. What passed for light spindle oil was Texaco Regal R+O oil .Its a good hydraulic oil,its rated for steam turbines,it works fine for the gears and bearings in a lathe headstock.
One useful characteristic (if you know about it) it IS volatile. Which means if its resting in a sump,it works like vapor paper to inhibit corrosion maybe in the headstock bearings. Is it magic gun oil? I don't think so,but I wouldn't hesitate to put a tiny drop on the threads of my fine old Lufkin micrometer.And it would be fine on hammer pins,etc.

The other oil is Shell Vactra its a heavier oil that clings. Lathe way oil. Any jobs in a gun similar to machine ways?Just don't use a lot. Its a bit sticky.

Now,a secret!! I don't particularly use either on guns!!

My light oil is CLP. I use Tetra Gun grease. Or I have a tube of Castrol fully synthetic grease.Its blue.

Anti-rust preservative? Birchwood Casey RIG has served well a long time.

Hoppes gun oil,Rem Oil,etc have served well a long time.

YOU have to learn what works for you and how to use it, Its rumored Vitalis hair oil served as an Arctic Lube in Korea. Why? It was there and someone tried it out of desperation.

These "Which snake oil?" posts get a lot of traffic,but IMO, they are darn near silly.

If lard and motor mica works for you, or Patchouly oil and grumtine...use it!!.
Tri-Flo CLP and Tetra Gun Grease work for me.

Different lube issue, I wanted to know which gear oil (90 weight) to use in my 85 Toyota gear box,transfer case,hypoid axles. While I could get a lot of opinions,it seemed no one in the parts stores knew.

Plain old Sta-Lube GL-4 90 Wt was right for the trans. Why? No sulphur EP additives. It seems those eat yellow metals,like brass and bronze and synchros.

The hypoid gears in the third members are better served with GL-5 gear oil,which has the sulphur EP additives, No syncros in the pumpkin.

And,FWIW,reading the fine print,Mobil 1 recommended against using Mobil 1 GL-5 in my transmission.

Unless you will do the research to learn what and why, Whatever Andy Granetelli used in his Indy Turbo car has not a thing to do with my 1911.

Everybody knows Klotz Super Techni plate or Golden Spectrum are THE oils to run in your 1976 CZ motorcycle so the HAVE to be the best in everything CZ. (Except for the bean oil in the Speedway bikes. Those butyls made some HP!)

Last edited by HiBC; August 13, 2021 at 06:02 AM.
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Old August 13, 2021, 05:41 AM   #34
Jim Watson
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I am like the competition shooter who asked what he lubed his very fine and reliable match guns with. "Whatever free sample came in the last match goodie bag."

I also have used motor oil, industrial grease, and Army surplus 'Oil, lubricating, preservative.'

The last thing I bought for the purpose was during the Militec 1 fad. Nothing special. I noticed in company literature that it started out as an industrial gearbox lube additive. So I added most of it to my bottle of 'Oil, lubricating, preservative.'
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Old August 13, 2021, 08:08 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HiBC View Post
(Except for the bean oil in the Speedway bikes. Those butyls made some HP!)
Bean oil?

I actually have considered using way lube on the slide (ways) of my 1911. I don't remember if I actually did though
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Old August 13, 2021, 08:18 AM   #36
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Mobil 1 Synthetic. Better than CLP or the pricer Slip 2000 EWL.

Just use it sparingly. No need to bath your pistol in it.
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Old August 13, 2021, 08:58 AM   #37
Moonglum
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Originally Posted by JustJake View Post
Mobil 1 Synthetic. Better than CLP or the pricer Slip 2000 EWL.

Just use it sparingly. No need to bath your pistol in it.
What makes it better than CLP ?
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Old August 13, 2021, 09:08 AM   #38
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Grant Cunningham is a well known and respected Subject Matter Expert. What is your level of qualification to claim he doesn't know what he's talking about?
As far as I know, Grant Cunningham is a firearms defense expert but not a chemist who specializes in lubricants. In that context your comment seems to be the logical fallacy of "an appeal to authority."
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Old August 13, 2021, 09:20 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moonglum View Post
There's a search function here bro. I bet this has been done A Hundred Times.

Motor Oil has Carcinogens in it. If you want to walk around with that in your pocket, have at it.

From all the reading I've done I think Lubriplate has the best reputation. If I ever need to buy oil again that's probably what I'll get

I have a bottle of Starrett Light Tool Oil that's been in my tool box for years. It's what I have so it's what I use.

F
<<There's a search function here bro. I bet this has been done A Hundred Times.>>

I had searched for it, Moonglum, and nowhere had I read the point on carcinogens that you just made which is actually really interesting.
Had I not asked, I would have remained oblivious to it.

However... how do we know that gun lube products do not contain carcinogens?
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Old August 13, 2021, 09:22 AM   #40
Moonglum
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Originally Posted by dahermit View Post
As far as I know, Grant Cunningham is a firearms defense expert but not a chemist who specializes in lubricants. In that context your comment seems to be the logical fallacy of "an appeal to authority."
I see your point but he does state in the article that various engineers and otherwise knowledgeable people have made corrections that have been incorporated into the article.

Fourth paragraph

Quote:
(Over the years I’ve been honored to have a number of tribologists — the technical term for oil engineers — contribute and correct this article. I thank each and every one of them for helping me to keep this as factual and current as I can!)
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Old August 13, 2021, 09:23 AM   #41
Moonglum
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Originally Posted by Pistoler0 View Post
I had searched for it, Moonglum, and nowhere had I read the point on carcinogens that you just made which is actually really interesting.

Had I not asked, I would have remained oblivious to it.

However... how do we know that gun lube products do not contain carcinogens?
If I understand what I've read it's the specific additives to the motor oil, like benzene that are carcinogens.
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Old August 13, 2021, 09:25 AM   #42
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Motor oil as gun lube? Yes/No, which one?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pistoler0 View Post
I had searched for it, Moonglum, and nowhere had I read the point on carcinogens that you just made which is actually really interesting.

Had I not asked, I would have remained oblivious to it.

However... how do we know that gun lube products do not contain carcinogens?

A number of gun lubes specifically advertise themselves as non-toxic. I’m not sure if that has to proven anywhere, or simply provides you a leg to stand on in a court were you to get sick.


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Old August 13, 2021, 09:34 AM   #43
HiBC
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Quote:
Bean oil?
Castor bean oil.It was used for 2 stroke oil. Castrol was one brand. It provided a noticeable power increase in my experience.
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Old August 13, 2021, 09:54 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by HiBC View Post
Castor bean oil.It was used for 2 stroke oil. Castrol was one brand. It provided a noticeable power increase in my experience.
OK. I never would have thought of that
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Old August 13, 2021, 10:48 AM   #45
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Aquila

Debate the authors words for sure BUT the test and results of 48 products to rust and lubricity is well done.
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Old August 13, 2021, 11:02 AM   #46
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Oh yeah, castor oil! I used it in my 2-stroke motorcycle because it's what race bikes used, so it gave me extra power! Smelled awesome!
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Old August 13, 2021, 11:16 AM   #47
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Oh yeah, castor oil! I used it in my 2-stroke motorcycle because it's what race bikes used, so it gave me extra power! Smelled awesome!

My grandfather used it for his arthritis. You can use it for a lot.


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Old August 13, 2021, 12:54 PM   #48
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"Oh yeah, castor oil! I used it in my 2-stroke motorcycle because it's what race bikes used, so it gave me extra power! Smelled awesome!"

Did you mean this?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg castrol.jpg (90.1 KB, 36 views)
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Old August 13, 2021, 12:55 PM   #49
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Grant Cunningham is a well known and respected Subject Matter Expert. What is your level of qualification to claim he doesn't know what he's talking about?
I'm not reading it again but something about WD-40 and 3 in 1 oil letting it shave bits of metal off. That's ridiculous. I admit WD-40 isn't a lube but my dad used 3 in 1 for most of his life. I grew up using it and still do. I never saw any extra wear from using it. When my dad discovered WD-40 it was all he used for probably the last 20 years or so of his life. None of his guns showed any excess wear so yeah it's ludicrous to make a statement like that.
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Old August 13, 2021, 01:03 PM   #50
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Motor Oil has Carcinogens in it. If you want to walk around with that in your pocket, have at it.
New motor oil is non-carcinogenic, it's the combustion process that adds the nasty bits to the oil. So lubing with NEW oil is not a concern, other than staining your nice clothes.

And yes, I use Mobil 1 on my guns.
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