Rem 700: Take the stock off to clean?

fireroad · January 29, 2009, 07:03 PM

I have a Rem 700 mountain light in 280 that I want to thoroughly clean (hasn't been done in some time). It's one of the original Mountain Lights with the wood, not laminate stock. A good cleaning would require removing the stock but my concern is affecting accuracey. I have my loads all dialed in and I'm wondering how much taking of the stock and not screwing it down exactly the same tightness will affect accuracy (I don't own a torque screwdriver)? As far as I know the stock has never been worked on and the barrel isn't full floated ( I can get a dollar bill between the barrel and stock just to the end of the black part of the foregrip).

DnPRK · January 29, 2009, 11:31 PM

If its a blued rifle, they can rust below the wood line. I would take it out of the stock and clean it to prevent rust.

Scorch · January 30, 2009, 01:00 AM

I recommend removing the stock and cleaning under the wood line. After cleaning, treat the metal with something to prevent rust. I use wax, put there are some really neat products out there now like Eezox or Gunzilla or Weapon Shield. I also recommend you seal the barrel channel with a wood finish on the inside, since Remington does not feel it is needed. If you remove the stock, you will have to recheck zero.

Alleykat · January 30, 2009, 09:50 AM

The torque won't remain constant on a wooden stock, anyway, as it would with a pillar-bedded or aluminum bedding-block stock. I'd remove the stock and, while the action is off the stock, adjust that trigger down to about 3#, instead of that 6-8# like it came from the factory.

fireroad · January 30, 2009, 01:40 PM

Thanks, I think I'll do that. Anybody have a link to adjusting the trigger? Mine is like 8lbs but it has minimal travel and no creep so I never messed with it. If I could get it down to 4lbs I would be happy.

What would I use to clean the wood...alcohol? Finishing the inside of the wood...can I use a furniture poly from home depot or is there a special rifle poly? One day I will strip the whole thing down and Tru oil it...should I just Tru oil the inside now?

James K · January 30, 2009, 08:27 PM

I forget if that rifle has a magazine floor plate or if it is like the old ADL. If it is, make sure that when you reinstall the stock you don't get the magazine spring trapped under the magazine box or you can split the stock.

Jim

Scorch · January 30, 2009, 08:54 PM

Quote:

What would I use to clean the wood...alcohol? Finishing the inside of the wood...can I use a furniture poly from home depot or is there a special rifle poly?

You can wipe the wood down with alcohol or mineral spirits to clean it enough to accept finish. For inside the barrel channel, you can use anything you want, the idea is just to seal the wood.

As far as the outside of the stock, the finish you already have on the rifle is better than TruOil. If you want to refinish the stock and really seal it, you can buy firearm poly finish from Brownells.

Alleykat · January 31, 2009, 09:34 AM

Quote:

Anybody have a link to adjusting the trigger? Mine is like 8lbs but it has minimal travel and no creep so I never messed with it. If I could get it down to 4lbs I would be happy

If you just want to get the pull down to four pounds and leave the creep and overtravel alone, just back out the front bottom screw a little, until you get the pull that you want. I use a trigger pull gage, when adjusting triggers. There'll be a sealant over the screw that's easily removed with a knife.

fireroad · January 31, 2009, 09:54 AM

Thanks, I just balked that screw aout a half turn and I'm pretty please with the trigger (until I invest in a trigger guage that is). I'll test fire and resight it in at the rifle range today.

I must have a pretty old rifle as the inside of the stock was 75% finished. I'm not going to worry about the rest as I live and hunt the desert so stock swelling isn't an issue.

I will say that I am very impressed with Rems 40x bore cleaner. Does just as good a job as Butch's Bore Shine and no smell. Fast too, it's now my new bore cleaner of choice!

January 29, 2009, 07:03 PM	#1
fireroad Senior Member Join Date: December 2, 2008 Posts: 126	Rem 700: Take the stock off to clean? I have a Rem 700 mountain light in 280 that I want to thoroughly clean (hasn't been done in some time). It's one of the original Mountain Lights with the wood, not laminate stock. A good cleaning would require removing the stock but my concern is affecting accuracey. I have my loads all dialed in and I'm wondering how much taking of the stock and not screwing it down exactly the same tightness will affect accuracy (I don't own a torque screwdriver)? As far as I know the stock has never been worked on and the barrel isn't full floated ( I can get a dollar bill between the barrel and stock just to the end of the black part of the foregrip).

January 30, 2009, 01:00 AM	#3
Scorch Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2006 Location: Washington state Posts: 15,248	I recommend removing the stock and cleaning under the wood line. After cleaning, treat the metal with something to prevent rust. I use wax, put there are some really neat products out there now like Eezox or Gunzilla or Weapon Shield. I also recommend you seal the barrel channel with a wood finish on the inside, since Remington does not feel it is needed. If you remove the stock, you will have to recheck zero. __________________ Never try to educate someone who resists knowledge at all costs. But what do I know? Summit Arms Services

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January 29, 2009, 11:31 PM	#2
DnPRK Senior Member Join Date: August 24, 2001 Location: LC, Ca Posts: 1,917	If its a blued rifle, they can rust below the wood line. I would take it out of the stock and clean it to prevent rust.

January 30, 2009, 09:50 AM	#4
Alleykat Junior member Join Date: July 26, 2007 Posts: 3,668	The torque won't remain constant on a wooden stock, anyway, as it would with a pillar-bedded or aluminum bedding-block stock. I'd remove the stock and, while the action is off the stock, adjust that trigger down to about 3#, instead of that 6-8# like it came from the factory.

January 30, 2009, 01:40 PM	#5
fireroad Senior Member Join Date: December 2, 2008 Posts: 126	Thanks, I think I'll do that. Anybody have a link to adjusting the trigger? Mine is like 8lbs but it has minimal travel and no creep so I never messed with it. If I could get it down to 4lbs I would be happy. What would I use to clean the wood...alcohol? Finishing the inside of the wood...can I use a furniture poly from home depot or is there a special rifle poly? One day I will strip the whole thing down and Tru oil it...should I just Tru oil the inside now?

January 30, 2009, 08:27 PM	#6
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	I forget if that rifle has a magazine floor plate or if it is like the old ADL. If it is, make sure that when you reinstall the stock you don't get the magazine spring trapped under the magazine box or you can split the stock. Jim

January 31, 2009, 09:54 AM	#9
fireroad Senior Member Join Date: December 2, 2008 Posts: 126	Thanks, I just balked that screw aout a half turn and I'm pretty please with the trigger (until I invest in a trigger guage that is). I'll test fire and resight it in at the rifle range today. I must have a pretty old rifle as the inside of the stock was 75% finished. I'm not going to worry about the rest as I live and hunt the desert so stock swelling isn't an issue. I will say that I am very impressed with Rems 40x bore cleaner. Does just as good a job as Butch's Bore Shine and no smell. Fast too, it's now my new bore cleaner of choice!