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Old November 30, 2013, 01:21 PM   #26
Vance
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OK. So I went and fire off some bullets I had loaded with the epoxy paint coating with the HBN powder mixed in. There was no leading in the barrel. That part was good. I was hitting about 3 inches lower on the target compared to fmj bullets. I was unable to recover any of the bullets. I got a 2" 3 shot group at 25 yards free standing no gun rest. Just 3 inches below where I was aiming.

I will have to wait testing the powder coated bullets for next weekend.

Last edited by Vance; November 30, 2013 at 01:51 PM.
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Old November 30, 2013, 11:16 PM   #27
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Sounds like less of a seal, which is lowering your velocity making you hit lower.
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Old November 30, 2013, 11:19 PM   #28
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Any chance you have a chronograph? It would be interesting to see how the bullets compared to one another.

It could be a seal, but I might also see if its just less pressure building up behind the round. Maybe it's too good of a lubricant...not sure how to test for either though.
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Old November 30, 2013, 11:26 PM   #29
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Could be seal. Don't neccesarily want to increase the crimp though. That would penetrate the coating maybe. The bullets were nice and slick. The powder coated ones are also.
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Old December 1, 2013, 05:00 PM   #30
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I was actually thinking like moly coated bullets. Slick, so there's less pressure to build velocity.

Chrono would be great to compare.
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Old December 1, 2013, 06:05 PM   #31
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I ran some of em through the new Peacemaker this weekend. It was a lot of fun. I don't have any useful range info, other than zero leading, because I haven't gotten the front sight filed down yet. But I really like this revolver.
Maybe I'll get the sight lined up next week and try some groups. This weekend was mostly just drawing down on some rowdy milk jugs that had been talking big around town.


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Old December 3, 2013, 10:04 AM   #32
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What size pill you shooting out of that hog leg? Do you think bumping up from say .452 to .454 would make up for the loss of pressure and maybe raise your poi back up?
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Old December 3, 2013, 09:00 PM   #33
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I'm thinking just tightening the crimp a bit would do that. Right now I only have it set to just remove the case flare.
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Old December 4, 2013, 01:19 PM   #34
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Quote:
I got a 2" 3 shot group at 25 yards free standing no gun rest. Just 3 inches below where I was aiming.
I'd really like to hear more results of accuracy. I wish I could try his but I've invested so much in wax lubing that I hate to invest more into something else.
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Old December 16, 2013, 02:43 AM   #35
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i know this is an old thread, but i keep coming back to it
i have a question though, would it not be more beneficial to coat the bottoms of the bullets and not the nose? the nose isnt touching the barrel at all on the flat nosed or hp rounds, albeit not as atractive which is what makes PC so cool
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Old December 16, 2013, 09:36 AM   #36
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I haven't gotten any leading yet, so there is no point in worrying about the base being coated. These are not sub-sonic rounds either. Only about 900 fps. Besides, all of the fmj bullets I have seen have been bare base meaning the lead was exposed on the base of the bullet.
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Old December 16, 2013, 12:16 PM   #37
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thats true
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Old December 16, 2013, 12:54 PM   #38
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These are not sub-sonic rounds either. Only about 900 fps.
I always thought anything under about 1100 fps was subsonic.
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Old December 16, 2013, 01:06 PM   #39
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yes, under 1000 is sub-sonic, at least

Subsonic loads for 9mm commonly use 147 grain (9.5 gram) bullets at velocities of 990 ft/sec (300 m/s).
-wiki
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Old December 16, 2013, 08:28 PM   #40
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Not super sonic then. Anyway, I have shot lead in my 357 mag to 1200 fps without problems. Just depends i guess.
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Old December 18, 2013, 03:44 AM   #41
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I'd really like to hear more results of accuracy. I wish I could try his but I've invested so much in wax lubing that I hate to invest more into something else.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...Tumbler-Method

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Old December 18, 2013, 04:26 PM   #42
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Valornor- if you are still following this thread: I had read that in 300 blackout (.223 shortened and necked up for .30) pushing past 1800fps accuracy dropped off dramatically- how is it performing in .223 pushing 3000?
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Old February 27, 2014, 08:42 PM   #43
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Beagle333; I know it has been a while since your post. But I was following the posts on coating and I saw your pic of HPs. I have been looking for a HP mold. Yours looks pretty good. If they are 38's I would really like to know where you got them.
Thanks,
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Old February 27, 2014, 08:53 PM   #44
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Those are actually .45 bullets, from a MP 45-225 mold.

But here's a .38 group buy from Miha that is closed, but he still has 20 molds on hand. If you send him a PM with the email address that you use in paypal, he'll send you an invoice, and 9 days later, a beautiful brass work of art that is the MiHec experience!!!

Group Buy link
See post #266 for Miha's post on it.

Otherwise, you'd have to join a Group Buy in progress and wait for it to close.
Some close in 4 months, the last one took over 2 years.
We just never know.


Another option is to either buy one from Erik's in-stock molds at www.hollowpointmold.com or you can buy a Lyman or Lee and have Erik convert it to HP for you.
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Old February 28, 2014, 05:58 PM   #45
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I got the Harbor Freight Electro Static Powder Coat gun the other day. Today was the first chance I've had to try it out.

I did try the "shake and bake" method and got poor results, guess I'm not cut out for it. I've seen photos of other peoples work that looks fantastic.

I learned a lot.

Shaking the gun a bit helps maintain an even flow. This requires very little effort. I think I'll learn more about using it as time goes along.

I did it inside the garage.

I learned that it is probably an outdoor job, the powder goes a lot of places you don't need it to go.

The loose powder cleans up easily.

My results are a lot better with the ES gun than they were with "shake and bake".

The bullets are pretty, very pretty.

I think a Lazy Susan would help me with getting an even coat. I found that I had to move the pan holding the bullets around to bet the best coat.

Resizing did remove a small amount of the coating on a few, very few, bullets. Maybe this was caused by uneven coating. I don't know.

There was a skirt of powder coat around the base of the bullets, the sizer removed it easily. I did not set them up on anything. they were sitting flat and the base is nekid I don't see this as being a problem.

The nonstick aluminum foil makes a huge difference.


All in all I was pleased. One of these days I'll get a chance to shoot them If they were as pretty as Beagles, I'd post photos. I need a little more time to dial my procedure in.
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Old March 2, 2014, 04:29 PM   #46
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I can has red boolits?

I never should have looked in here.
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Old March 2, 2014, 05:51 PM   #47
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I can has red boolits?

I never should have looked in here.
Ok someone needs to pass a paper towel, I just spit tea in my keyboard.

Oh this is only a minor sampling of what CAN be done. Just keep on reading...
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Old March 3, 2014, 05:43 AM   #48
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Yes, you can has red boolits! Read more in these threads and learn the joys and benefits of powdercoating!
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Old March 3, 2014, 11:17 AM   #49
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Beagle333, Thanks for the info. They are just a little too rich for me.
Sorry for hijacking the thread.
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Old March 3, 2014, 02:33 PM   #50
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David- Nailhead method makes an even huger difference IMO.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...il-head-method

BTW the one on the left is an unused fixture, the other three are uncleaned. Every few batches I run the nailheads across a wire wheel in the bench grinder to clean them up, but the heads mostly stay clean by being covered by the bullet. The two middle ones show buildup on the wood from about 2-3000 .45 and .40 PC'd bullets.

I estimate after about 20,000 coated, I will need to pull the fixtures hot and peel the baked overspray off the fixtures. When hot, the buildup is tacky, soft and does not stick to the wood.
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