|
Forum Rules | Firearms Safety | Firearms Photos | Links | Library | Lost Password | Email Changes |
Register | FAQ | Calendar | Today's Posts | Search |
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
January 18, 2013, 11:37 PM | #1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: January 9, 2012
Location: The Great State of Texas
Posts: 210
|
A little help with zeroing please (Done, but here's an awesome pic!)
I have an AK underfolder in 7.62x39 with a Texas Weapon System Dog Leg rail and the rear peep replacing the leaf sight. Going to the range to zero the peep and then the red dot tomorrow. I'll be using the Herter's 123 grain hollow point round. The front sight post is adjustable for elevation and windage but the peep doesn't have 100 meter settings like the leaf so I'm not sure how to battle sight zero it. If I zero at the 25 yard range where should the bullet impact the target to get the 300 yard battle sight zero? I tried some ballistics calculators but I guess I'm just not getting it. Any help is appreciated guys as I've never zeroed with anything but the original AK leafs and with those I did it on the 1 setting at the 100 yard range.
Last edited by TheFineLine; January 22, 2013 at 12:55 AM. |
January 21, 2013, 11:30 AM | #2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 12, 2010
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 306
|
that is an m4 zero
The ak is a 25/200 yard zero |
January 21, 2013, 11:45 AM | #3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: December 20, 2012
Location: Sweet Home
Posts: 886
|
The different rounds have different trajectories. The 5.56 is much flatter shooting. If you want to shoot out to 300 meters accurately (a little iffy with an AK) you will need to use something else.
__________________
Tomorrow is the most important thing in life. Comes into us at midnight very clean. It's perfect when it arrives and it puts itself in our hands. It hopes we've learned something from yesterday. |
January 21, 2013, 12:15 PM | #4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: June 19, 2012
Location: East Texas
Posts: 407
|
There are all kinds of factors that come into play in trying to use a 25 m zero to achieve a longer range zero. The only reason the military can use the 25 m zero is that all the weapons and ammo are the same (with adjustments for the M4 v. M16 and various sights) and they've actually determined the trajectory out to 300 m by firing the heck out of them.
I suggest that you get on the paper at 25 m and then try shooting at 50 m and 100 m with the idea you will safely wind up somewhat high - around an inch or so - at 100 m. That ought to keep you on the paper at 200 m where you can zero the thing. If you really want to know your rifle, you can then shoot back at 100 m and 50 m and out to 300 m and just note what it does. It isn't a 300 m weapon. The two Soviet style armies I've observed qualified at 100 m. |
January 22, 2013, 12:33 AM | #5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: January 9, 2012
Location: The Great State of Texas
Posts: 210
|
I zeroed it at 25. The peep made a real difference when I shot at the 100. It did shoot a little high. With the leaf I was averaging 5 moa. Using the new peep, with the sight radius nearly double, I was getting 3-4, as I was with the Bushnell TRS-25. I really like the TWS setup and the Bushnell held zero. I'm real happy with that since it's an underfolder. The longest range around here is 100 yards. I wish I knew some folks with land where I could try out some longer distances. I used the ballistics calculator on gundata and figured that I could do a 50/200 yard sight, or a 25/250. So I did the 25. You really see a drop in trajectory past 250-300 yards. If I ever needed it, it'd most likely be in CQB here in the city so I think the more powerful round a good fit for my needs. Now I'm looking for a good distance rifle. Probably a good bolt in 308 or 300w, or something like that. Doing my due diligence to figure what'll best fit THAT need.
Polish PMKMS kit, Green Mountain non-chromed barrel, Nodak Spud receiver, Texas Weapon System Dog Leg Rail, Bushnell TRS-25 Tapco G2 trigger, Polish bakelite grip, numbers matching bayonet, Polish sling, with a Tula Bakelite mag. I really like this setup. I've put about 2500 rounds thru it. Hasn't failed even once. Imagine that. |
January 24, 2013, 11:07 PM | #6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: October 9, 2009
Location: North Alabama
Posts: 8,308
|
Soviet procedure
I am looking at an article written by a guy last name TARR who is allegedly quoting the "official Soviet military" method for battle zero. This would be with the standard leaf sights. There is apparently an official zero target that matches nicely w/ the standard front post that makes the process easier, supposedly.
If I read the TARR article right, the Russian way is to zero the rifle on at 100M, with the leaf set at 300M. Once on target (an acceptable group is about 6" (15cm), they set the sight at 100M and consider the rifle zeroed. So reads the article anyhow. That does you little good w/ your aftermarket sights. But,...... I have an old ammo catalog, that gives "short range and long range" zeros for the x39 ctg (US mfg 125 PSP): short range- +.1"/50 yds, zero/100, -2.2"/150, -6.7/200, -14/250, -24.5/ 300 long range- +1.5"/100yds, zero/150, -3.8/200, -10.4/250, -20.1/300 -51.3/400, -102.5/500 If I were setting up an AK with a non adjustable sight rear sight, and wanted a "battle zero" I would likely zero the rifle 1.5-2" high at 100 and consider it a 300 yard weapon on combatants. My hunting x39 rifles are all zeroed on at 100. |
|
|