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May 12, 2005, 09:52 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: October 25, 2004
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 171
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Laser-Cast and leading in .45
I tried some 230gr. Laser-Cast (Oregon Trail) bullets today over 4.0 grains of regular Clays. I've had good luck with this load and plated bullets, but I wanted to experiment with something a little cheaper. They shot well, but with only 50 rounds I got a small ring of lead on the bolt face of my Kimber 1911. It was tough to scrub off. There was some minor lead at the start of the barrel rifling, which came out fairly easy. It's been ages since I've shot lead. Is the lead ring at the back (around where the case rim would be against the bolt face) normal?
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May 12, 2005, 10:18 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: October 1, 2001
Location: PA
Posts: 1,752
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Yes. A copper brush wipes it right off.
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May 12, 2005, 10:24 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: June 21, 2002
Posts: 2,019
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It is somewhat normal Mike. I use a little bit of Chore Boy copper scouring pad to scrub it right off. Most likely it was a tiny bit of lead mixed in with a good bit of bullet lube, just enough lead to make it look grey. I'll bet next time you shoot it the ring will come off with your fingernail, then you will know it is mostly bullet lube.
Take a worn out bore brush and wrap it with some of the Chore Boy pad, it will take the leading out of the barrel better than anything you have ever used. |
May 12, 2005, 11:17 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: October 25, 2004
Location: Austin, TX
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The ring on the bolt face was definitely lead. Couldn't scratch it off with a fingernail. A bronze phospor brush didn't have much effect. Had to work at it with a stainless steel brush. No fun! I was just using Hoppe's #9 for solvent. Maybe I need a better solvent to help out?
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May 13, 2005, 09:04 AM | #5 |
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Join Date: June 21, 2002
Posts: 2,019
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Hmm, I don't get lead rings on my revolvers, not even the 357's shooting very light 38's. I do get lube and lead combined.
The chore boy will take it off easier than anything else. It is made of flat strands of copper, and the edges will cut the lead off nicely. It will cost you less than $2 at the grocery store, so it is worth a try. It is a big flat piece of fabric, wrapped and twisted shut on one end. Cut the knot off the end with some scissors, and unwrap the fabric. Then you can wrap it or fold it or whatever you want. |
May 13, 2005, 09:39 AM | #6 |
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Join Date: February 16, 2005
Location: Charleston, WV
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I'll third on the Copper Chore Boy, I had never tried it until some of the members here suggested using one for removing lead from the bore. I've tried it in the cylinder face also and it works great.
Pick one up and give it a try, a little light "buffing" and the lead rings go away. Cut off a little piece and wrap it around a bore brush and you have the most effective lead remover I personally have ever used. P.S. Thanks board members, for turning me on to the "Chore Boy lead remover" |
May 13, 2005, 03:17 PM | #7 | |
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Join Date: June 10, 2004
Location: Oklahoma
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Quote:
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John |
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May 13, 2005, 07:15 PM | #8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: February 16, 2005
Location: Charleston, WV
Posts: 302
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Agreed G56,
I wasn't going to name names (for sake of giving credit where it's due), but I'm 99% sure it was one of your posts that turned me onto the chore boy thing. I'm not saying someone else didn't mention it first, but I read it from you first. The Lewis type remover works, that's all I'll say about them, the chore boy is far superior (and a lot cheaper) than any slovent/tool that I have used in the past. As a matter of fact, I saw something that looked very similar in a shooting catalog, advertised as a lead remover, it's apperance was identical to a copper chore boy, not to mention, I think it was priced around $9.00. |
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