June 13, 2018, 07:14 AM | #26 |
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Rod,
Mine was made in 1975. Throats are about .455", same as my 1980 built 25-5. Got a 2nd mould that casts .455" bullets on the way from Europe as we speak. Designed for the Webley revolvers and known as "The Manstopper", it is basically a hollow base wadcutter with a crimp groove. With the Model 25's, you never know what you're going to get throat-wise. I have one 25-5 with .455" throats, while another one has perfect .452" throats. Just one more advantage to casting and sizing your own. Don
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June 13, 2018, 07:31 AM | #27 |
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After all the helpful advice , I going to stick with the plated & FMJ's . What was the reason you all shoot the soft stuff ?
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June 13, 2018, 07:48 AM | #28 | |
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Economy and accuracy. First, just because it's a lead bullet doesn't mean it's soft. Most of the commercial cast bullets have a BHN of about 12 which is not soft. Second, plated bullets are not noted for their accuracy. Check out the Bullseye shooters, and none of them shoot plated bullets; it's either lead or jacketed. Also, none of them are shooting round nose bullets. Basically, if you want an accurate bullet in .45 ACP, you will go with a SWC, either lead or jacketed, with lead being the economical choice. Right, Rod? Don
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June 13, 2018, 07:58 AM | #29 | |
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CW308: If you buy in bulk, Missouri Bullet Co.'s 200 gr LSWC in .45 is a great choice...they're sized 0.452+, and will produce match grade accuracy at target velocities. And BTW, no matter what brand you choose, if you have leading issues, try swirl lubing with Lee Liquid Alox, very lightly applied and that should help. It's easy, quick, and it works. I do it any time I buy commercially produced lead alloy bullets. Best Regards, Rod
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June 13, 2018, 08:03 AM | #30 |
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USSR, good, hell GREAT, lookin' piece you've got there...a virtual duplicate of mine. Mine's got a post front sight...I'd carry it more here on the farm with a Baughman ramp, but that straight up post tears up my holsters. I've checked my throats and they're very close to 0.452-3".
I don't shoot it often enough, but it's as accurate as can be with any good load. I do admit, I like it better with Auto-Rim brass rather than the ACP stuff...easier to eject and none of that finger nail picking them out BS...Same loads for either type checked with a chrono show similar velocities. Let us all know how that bullet works out...hollow base as I see it...tough to cast well maybe, or maybe not... Off haying now...gotta get it in before the TRW's move in this pm. Be safe, one and all. Rod
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June 13, 2018, 01:06 PM | #31 |
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Years back I did have a S&W auto that only shot 38 wadcutterd . Very nice pistol sold it to a friend , wadcutters punch nice round holes . I'm still on the fence on giving the cast lead bullets a try for my 1911 3" it's a Colt New Agent , enjoy the heck out of shooting it . Have tried hollow points ,with no problems . I don't mind cleaning the pistol , mostly after 50 rounds not a problem . Just talking myself into giving the " soft stuff " only kidding I know it's not that soft . Come to think of it I also shot lead in my S&W mod. 29 44Mag. 8 3/8" barrel . What the heck , I'm gonna order some. Thanks Everyone for all your time & help.
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June 13, 2018, 02:54 PM | #32 |
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rodfac, alot of good info here regarding the 200gr lswc. Question; those 200gr lswc's from Missouri Bullets; which one is closest to the H&G #68? Plain lead or coated? Or does it matter? Thank you. Strictly for punching paper. Gun is a SA1911-A1 mil-spec. Again, thanks.
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June 13, 2018, 05:49 PM | #33 |
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June 13, 2018, 06:46 PM | #34 |
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Thanks USSR. I'll be trying some of those soon.
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June 14, 2018, 04:57 AM | #35 | |
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That all means that I can load a box of target grade .45s for about $3.
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June 14, 2018, 05:53 AM | #36 | |
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Don
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June 14, 2018, 06:54 AM | #37 |
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As to the OAL to use with the H&G #68, or one of its clones, I find that leaving just the barest lip of full dia. lead showing at the mouth of the case helps with any feeding issues. This seems to cushion the round as it feeds, both on the ramp and the chamber, and less than 1/16" does the trick. A plunk test on your barrel will show you if you have too much lead exposed.
Powder charges vary, but my standard load is with Win 231 at 5.0 - 5.2 grains with Win Sm Pistol Primers. As always, work up to this load, though it is mild, after consulting a good manual and considering the condition of your gun and all pressure implicatons. For any and all of us who shoot lead alloy, and apologies to those who all ready know this trick, I use Chore Boy copper cleaning pads for lead removal. Just a couple passes with a small amount wrapped around a bore brush does the trick. Get the all-copper ones, not the steel with copper plating variety, to save wear and tear on your barrel...available on line, and rarely at Dollar Stores. These work better than the famous Lewis Lead Remover, in use for decades among target shooters. RifleTom, Don (USSR) has given you a good link to Missouri Bullet's site....good people there...and in answer to your coated or not question...I get the plain variety...and find that I can go more than 100 rounds without cleaning the barrel. Again, as I previously recommended, Lee Liquid Alox, used with their swirl lubing method, is a quick and effective antidote to minor leading at target velocities with any commercially cast bullet using their proprietary overly-hard lube. Best Regards, Rod
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June 14, 2018, 07:30 AM | #38 |
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Many thanks to rodfac and USSR for all the advice on the 200gr lswc's. I've been loading 230gr plated RN and 230gr LRN for years. I now have a new load to try. Sometimes change is good. Thanks.
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June 14, 2018, 02:28 PM | #39 |
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D
The classic Bullseye target load for match shooting is a 200 grain LSWC atop 4.0 grains of Bullseye powder.
I have gone to 178s and 4.2 which work as well in my gun.
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June 15, 2018, 08:54 AM | #40 |
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Another fan of 5.0 hp under 200 lswc, but am using lp primers Am shooting more 200 lrnfp's these days, but they can be little more touchy to reload.
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