Organizing and Labeling Loaded Ammo

[haskins02]

I have the following questions on organizing loaded cartridges (in my case, relatively small quantities of .308 Win):

1. My Midway USA Master Catalog # 32 has lots of options (p. 398-402), but what’s the best technique to organize your loaded rounds in a box that have different charges, because you are working up a load? For example, if you have 5 rounds with one charge, 5 rounds with another charge, etc., how can you identify each group within the same plastic ammo box (like Frankford Arsenal), without getting them mixed up at the range?

2. Peel and Stick labels (such as Frankford Arsenal) seem like a great idea, but can you peel them off the plastic (or paper) box easily later on when you decide to put a different load in the box? Is there a better type of label which is more flexible when you decide to put a different load in the box?

Thanks.

Greg

[Mike Irwin]

Per question 1...

What I always did was use a plastic box and a sharpie marker.

On the plastic box I would number each column of cases on the front of the box.

Example, if you have a box that holds 50 rounds, 10 columns of 5 rounds each, you'd have numbers 1 through 10.

In a separate notebook, or a card, that I kept specifically for that box, I would record what load was in each column.

I normally fired my initials in groups of five, so in a 50-round box I could have as many as 10 different load variations.


As for the P&S labels, you can easily scrape them off the box with a razor blade, or simply stick another label over top of it. When you get a layer built up, it's easy to remove a bunch at one time.

Ronson Lighter Fluid can be used to remove the remains.

[Uncle H]

Office Depot/Office Max sells all sizes of Avery and store brand labels. You can print anything on 'em you want with your computer/printer.

I usually use the 2" X 3" size or thereabouts with whatever info on them I need at the time.

They'll peel off plastic ammo boxes fairly easily.

[GE-Minigun]

Use Scotch tape...peel off desired length...fold one end onto itself...place where needed. When you want to remove it...grab the folded end and lift off...a lot cheaper than P&S stickers.

[tkcomer]

Zip Lock baggies. Write on the baggie what you've loaded and pack 'em to go. Cheap and easy.

[Archie]

I arrange the test loads in rows, from top to bottom.

Then make a map of the box, showing what loads are in which row, top to bottom. Tuck that paper in the box. Just make sure it doesn't blow away. Sometimes I'll make up full sized business paper guides and keep them in/on a compartmentalized clip board.

I only use stick on labels for established loads in full boxes.

I once used stick on labels and wrote in pencil. It worked, but after a while the label gets nasty.

[Dragon55]

I do same as Mike except use capitol letters. Each column of my ammo boxes have a letter A thru J written with a Sharpie and my little red notebook has A thru J columns.

[D. Manley]

Office Depot/Office Max sells all sizes of Avery and store brand labels. You can print anything on 'em you want with your computer/printer.

Exactly what I do. I keep a variety of sizes around for different packaging/storage boxes and make my own labels with all the relevant information. I save a generic, fill-in-the-blank version for test loads and on proven loads, I save the label content for future use.

[haskins02]

Wow! A lot of great, and quite varied, ideas! Thanks for all your input. I think for my limited reloading, I'll try using small zip lock bags with a note inside each one for load development, and then when I am satisfied with a particular load, I might use plastic ammo boxes labeled with removable computer labels from Avery. Thanks again.

Greg

[margiesex]

In reply all I can say, and I hope I speak for the rest of those who wrote - whatever you decide to do - do it!

I have seen fellas at both outdoor and indoor ranges with marked boxes - but only the caliber.

Who know what's inside?

I like the plastic flip-top boxes, and use my Dymo Label Maker to list: caliber; primer; bullet; and power make and grains.

If I'm working up rifle loads I'll normally use an old slide top box (if I have it) and cut the labels to correspond to the slots in side the box. In addition, I will take a marker and mark the bottom of the cases - for example if there's 5 of each - five will have an X, five might have one line, etc. so I know what I have.

But, as I said - whatever system you decide to use - use it! Will save aggravation and maybe your hands, fingers, or eyes!

God bless.

Margiesex

Remember: Hug your God and your guns - 'cause he's coming for both - and soon!

[PCJim]

I have a reloading logbook on the bench, an Excel file with the same data duplicated on the computer, and make individual labels to accompany the ammo. All are cross-linked by a batch number.

For the labels that accompany the ammo, I use the Avery wizard. I created a template for each of the common loads I use, leaving the date as a blank line. I print the "labels" on regular paper, cutting them to the proper size - don't want glue residue from the labels on my boxes or ammo. If the ammo is in a ziplock bag, I just toss in the label. If it is in a plastic ammo box, I curl the label around a loaded round or simply stick the curled label in an unused slot.

When developing a load, I almost always will use an ammo box and will keep the different load recipes sorted by row. (This makes life easier at the range.) Since I usually do this in lots of 5 per load recipe, there is ample room to add a load data sheet curled up and placed in an empty slot in the same row.

[azar92]

I mainly have the 50 round plastic ammo boxes, although I have some "Zip-lock" style bags made for cartridges. They are heavier duty than regular kitchen ziplog baggies and you can even "snap them open" instead of opening the ziplock (you could only do that once, then they'd need to be tossed). If I'm using the ziplock baggies, I just slap a relatively inexpensive Frankford Arsenal label on them with the load data written on it.

If I'm using the 50 round ammo boxes (which I usually do) I use a small scrap of paper with the load data on it and wrap it around the first cartridge in a series. I start in the lower right hand corner and count left. I usually load 5 shot groups, so I will have two loads per row. So my first load is on the first row on the right, the second load is on the first row on the left. Like so:

50 - 49 - 48 - 47 - (46) - 45 - 44 - 43 - 42 - (41)
40 - 39 - 38 - 37 - (36) - 35 - 34 - 33 - 32 - (31)
30 - 29 - 28 - 27 - (26) - 25 - 24 - 23 - 22 - (21)
20 - 19 - 18 - 17 - (16) - 15 - 14 - 13 - 12 - (11)
10 - 09 - 08 - 07 - (06) - 05 - 04 - 03 - 02 - (01)

The numbers in () are the cartridges with the scrap of paper wrapped around them. Instead of writing the load data out by hand I have started printing the load data out on the computer using the thin, inexpensive computer paper. Using an 8pt font I typically fit 2 full load workups in two columns per 1 sheet of paper (with some scrap to spare). It's cheap and easy.

Here's some example load data that you'd find on the paper.

CZ 550 6.5x55
140g Hornady SP Loaded on: _______________
40.9g IMR 4350
Winchester Brass, new, trimmed to 2.155"
Winchester WLR Primer
C.O.A.L. _______", 0.____" off the lands
Rounds Loaded: ___

Hope that helps.

[Mike82352]

When I load development loads, 5 or 10 rounds each, I color the primer end of the brass with different colored sharpies. Then I write down the load data in my log book and high-lite the info with the same color sharpie. If for some reason a round gets put back in the box out of place, I know at a glance, what load it is. Once I find my load I just use mailing lables with the load data printed on it and stick it on the box. I also keep a log book (pocket note book) for each gun that I have. I can tell how many rounds each gun has had through it and what type of rounds for future use.

[gb_in_ga]

I use small ziplock baggies that are sized just right for the purpose -- I bought them at Midway USA. I write the identifying info for the load on a small, 1"x1" (appx) Post-It, and then tape that to the baggie with scotch tape. After I'm done with the trial batch and logged the results in my notebook, I just peel the tape and Post-It off of the baggie and use it again. I started with 100 of the baggies and still have most of them.

[plainsman456]

I have used baggies and a supply of mre liquid bags .Just slip in a piece of paper with the load data on it and you are good to go.Good Luck

[azredhawk44]

For test loads, I don't use MTM/Dillon/Frankford style cases.

I use fishing tackle see-thru storage boxes and put a yellow post-it in each compartment labeling the test load.

For the rest of my ammo, I sort brass into matched lots of 50 and stick them in MTM/Dillon/Frankford cases. I label the load with an index card inside the case, including the number of times the brass has been fired and the most recent trimming.

[Doodlebugger45]

I do something similar to Mike 82etc. When I'm dealing with sets of 5-10 rounds of different load data, I will mark the primer end of the cases themselves with different colored Sharpies. Then I take the same Sharpie to write pertinent load data on a small sticky label on the outside of the box. Enough to know which load I am shooting so that I can cross reference it to a more detailed description in my load notebook. Because sometimes I get excited after a great group and I forget to note exactly which load it was until the next cylinder full of the next load. Coloring the top of the cases is just another way to save me from myself.

Thanks for all the suggestions here.

[res45]

When I load development loads, 5 or 10 rounds each, I color the primer end of the brass with different colored sharpies. Then I write down the load data in my log book and high-lite the info with the same color sharpie. If for some reason a round gets put back in the box out of place, I know at a glance, what load it is.

+1 thats the way I have done it for years,if the ammo box gets tipped over or the content spilled it's a lot easier to figure out whats what by the color code on the primer or rim of the case. I also like to write the load data on my test target with the same color sharpie.

[SL1]

1. If you use slip-off topped boxes instead of hinged tops, be sure to mark one end of the box with a magic marker so that yu won't get the ends mixed-up and start shooting the max loads first instead of last (assuming pressure signs are still OK by the time you get to them).

2. For brass that will be automatically ejected, marking the case or primer with a magic marker will help avoid confusion when you inspect the brass. Even if you catch the brass and look it over before shooting the loads with the next higher powder charge, you may lose a few from the catcher that you find later, or you may notice something about the brass later and wish you knew what charge THAT one had. I use either different colors or a different numnber of hash marks on the case to designate different load groups.

3. For boxes of loads that are all the same (i.e., production of a load for shooting, rather than load development), I mark the boxes with:
cartridge name,
bullet weight and brand,
powder name and charge weight
primer type and brand
date reloaded

In my log, I will list the same info, plus the LOT NUMBERS of the bullet, powder and primers and (for some lots of brass that are used for important purposes) the "group designation" I have assigned to the cases and the number of times that group has been fired. Group designations allow me to determine where the brass came from and how much it has been stressed previously.

SL1