Ruger No. 1 Scope Fitment and Eye Relief

[sako2]

Ruger replaced the barrel didn't they? Do the screw holes line up? Is that the varminter base? The front looks to wide for the barrel.

[sako2]

This may help you. https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbth...for-ruger-no-1

[USAF Ret]

Well, I have more Ruger scope mounting equipment than a man can have. The standard Ruger offset rings are too low and don't bring the scope back far enough because the turret base is hitting the bottom of the top of the ring base. I ordered a cheap Bushnell Banner Dusk to Dawn with a couple extra inches of eye relief. So, I figured I could go with the factory base with high offset rings, but Ruger does not sell those. I have to ride the rifle up a little but not bad. Problem is I am losing an inch because the turret base is hitting the ring when I go back. So, Leupold makes a set of offset rings for the Ruger No.1 with a high base. I need two offset rings, but they sell one offset and one standard in the set, so I bought two.

So far, I have a picatinny rail that won't fit. Several offset scope mounts. A weaver slip on that should be here Friday, but may not work because I have the flip up rear sight.

I am going to play around with all I have to try and make something work. If worse comes to worse, I may take it to my gunsmith, drop all the crap off and ask him to make something out of all this stuff work to give the the height and eye relief I need. Just wish I could go with one of my better scopes.

I am about $500 into just trying to get a scope where I need it, so I will be returning a ton of crap if I can get something to work.

Anyway, done for the evening. Thanks for the help.

[44 AMP]

Have you considered having a stock custom fit to you??

That might allow you to use the standard scope stuff.
might not, but might be worth looking into...

[USAF Ret]

Originally Posted by 44 AMP

Have you considered having a stock custom fit to you??

That might allow you to use the standard scope stuff.
might not, but might be worth looking into...

I really don't want to modify the rifle. Not sure shortening the stock will help much as it would have to be cut way down/ LOP is just about right.
I think with the rings I have on the way and the scope I bought it should work. Waiting for EGW to get back to me as well and maybe see about modifying the mount I have, if I can find out where I left my dremel tool.

[44 AMP]

OK, I understand, what I was suggesting was have A stock fitted for you, not the original factory stock, so that the rifle could be returned to original condition if desired.

Might not be the best solution, was just wondering if you had looked into it.

[USAF Ret]

Originally Posted by 44 AMP

OK, I understand, what I was suggesting was have A stock fitted for you, not the original factory stock, so that the rifle could be returned to original condition if desired.

Might not be the best solution, was just wondering if you had looked into it.

I have not. I certainly will do that.

[USAF Ret]

Well, I dremeled the EGW mount and got it to fit over where the barrel meets the receiver. Well, does not fit the contour of the barrel. If I slide it down a half an inch it fits perfectly but then the holes do not line up. If I was better at stuff like that, I might try to drill holes, but they would need to have the right depth and I don't have that ability.

Got the slip on Weaver mount. I would have to remove the rear blade sight from the mount to make it work.

Last ditch effort is I have some Ruger mounts by Leopold. I think they will allow me to get the scope back where I need it. I guess I could have the blade sight removed to out the weaver mount on, but not too keen on that.

[tangolima]

I would redrill the holes in the base to match taped holes on the barrel. Just need to determine exactly how far away the new holes are from the original holes.

I'm a big fan of one-piece bases, especially on contoured surfaces. It makes ring misalignment much less an issue. Picatinny is better than Weaver. Old timers used to frown upon aluminum rail. They won't accept anything other than steel. But I guess reality has sunk in after a few decades. Now it is almost impossible to find steel picatinny rails. I have seen more and more old salts install aluminum bases and rings on their guns.

You may want to aware of potential unintended consequence of modifying the base. Chances are it may put an inclination on the base, which could render the scope's elevation range insufficient.

-TL

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

[USAF Ret]

I took it to my gunsmith. The holes can't be drilled to make it fit. Where it meets the contour of the barrel, the rear hole would be in the thin part that does not fit to the barrel, the part that is supposed to overhang the action.

I am waiting on some Leupold offset Ruger rings that should work. Got a lot of stuff to send back that I could not get to work.

[tangolima]

I see. Hopefully the new rings will work. But since the barrel profile is nonstandard, you may have alignment problem and will have to lap the rings.

The following suggestions are on the CS (excrement of certain domestic poultry) side, but I will do it when I am desperate enough.

If the part where I were to drill doesn't have enough material, I would consider adding metal to it. A short section of low picatinny riser over the rail is convenient. If the area doesn't have picatinny "teeth", I would epoxy or bolt a piece of aluminum on it.

For profile mismatch between the barrel and the base, I would consider bedding it with Devon steel / aluminum putty. It sounds a lot of work. But it isn't too bad. When doing it, make sure you maintain a correct inclination angle. Shim to correct if need be.

Good luck.

-TL

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

[USAF Ret]

Originally Posted by tangolima

I see. Hopefully the new rings will work. But since the barrel profile is nonstandard, you may have alignment problem and will have to lap the rings.

The following suggestions are on the CS (excrement of certain domestic poultry) side, but I will do it when I am desperate enough.

If the part where I were to drill doesn't have enough material, I would consider adding metal to it. A short section of low picatinny riser over the rail is convenient. If the area doesn't have picatinny "teeth", I would epoxy or bolt a piece of aluminum on it.

For profile mismatch between the barrel and the base, I would consider bedding it with Devon steel / aluminum putty. It sounds a lot of work. But it isn't too bad. When doing it, make sure you maintain a correct inclination angle. Shim to correct if need be.

Good luck.

-TL

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

TL, all of that is far beyond my capability. Haha. I think I can make the Leopold rings work. If not, I can have the front blade sight removed and put on the Weaver slip on. It's heavy and looks like crap, but the ratings on it working are good.

[USAF Ret]

Well, I have it fixed. Still a bit forward for my liking, but I can shoot it. I am probably going to have about a 1/2" taken off the buttstock to better fit me. Also, add a better recoil pad.

It was the high offset Leopold rings. I had to order 2 sets because is comes with 1 offset ring and 1 standard ring. I knew I would need both offset. Also,was able to mount the Burris I have that I wanted for this rifle. It sets just a little further back than the other scopes.

Thanks for all of the help and advice. Now to start returning the stuff I could not use. For that amount, I could probably buy a Ruger American at the PX on Bragg.

[Drm50]

On subject of removing the European style front sight ramp. I don’t know about now but in 70s Ruger shrunk them on. I took several off 77s and one #1. I wrapped barrel behind sight with Duct tape in case I made a mis stoke. Used Dremil cut off wheel - just short of cutting clear through. Then took small piece of 1/4 square key stock and used edge in slot I cut as punch. One sharp whack and ramp broke in 3 pieces and fell off leaving perfect blue under it.
The ramp is a cast alloy and will shatter when you cut a stress slot Parallel with barrel.

[tangolima]

Originally Posted by USAF Ret

Well, I have it fixed. Still a bit forward for my liking, but I can shoot it. I am probably going to have about a 1/2" taken off the buttstock to better fit me. Also, add a better recoil pad.



It was the high offset Leopold rings. I had to order 2 sets because is comes with 1 offset ring and 1 standard ring. I knew I would need both offset. Also,was able to mount the Burris I have that I wanted for this rifle. It sets just a little further back than the other scopes.



Thanks for all of the help and advice. Now to start returning the stuff I could not use. For that amount, I could probably buy a Ruger American at the PX on Bragg.

Have you shot the rifle with the newly installed scope? It could be optical illusion, but the scope seems pointing downward. It may shoot too high.

I can see how hard the job is to install a scope on that rifle. Good you eventually did it. Hope it works out for you. You may also need a cheek riser on the stock for proper cheek weld.

-TL

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

[USAF Ret]

Originally Posted by tangolima

Have you shot the rifle with the newly installed scope? It could be optical illusion, but the scope seems pointing downward. It may shoot too high.

I can see how hard the job is to install a scope on that rifle. Good you eventually did it. Hope it works out for you. You may also need a cheek riser on the stock for proper cheek weld.

-TL

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Optical illusion. It is pointed downward in the rest. Good point on shooting it first.

I have a Hornady buttstock shell holder that raises the cheek weld, but right now it is a good line of sight for me. Medium mounts had it too low.

The stock recoil pad feels like a brick.