The Firing Line Forums

Go Back   The Firing Line Forums > The Hide > The Art of the Rifle: Semi-automatics

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old June 16, 2018, 09:53 PM   #1
Liberate80
Member
 
Join Date: October 18, 2017
Posts: 17
Raw Aluminum AR15

Anyone here have knowledge about ARs made with raw aluminum parts? I love
Chandlerhardwoods.com for parts, but are there any other recommendations?
__________________
"Think not that I am come to send peace on earth: I came not to send peace, but a sword"
JESUS
MATT 10:34
Liberate80 is offline  
Old June 16, 2018, 10:33 PM   #2
mete
Senior Member
 
Join Date: June 14, 2004
Location: NY State
Posts: 6,527
Please define 'raw ' Aluminum
__________________
And Watson , bring your revolver !
mete is offline  
Old June 16, 2018, 11:03 PM   #3
mehavey
Senior Member
 
Join Date: June 17, 2010
Location: Virginia
Posts: 5,119
You see them all the time at gunshows: lowers that are the product right off CNC machining mill.
mehavey is offline  
Old June 17, 2018, 12:07 AM   #4
Bill DeShivs
Senior Member
 
Join Date: April 7, 2006
Posts: 9,610
Other than coloring and providing a hard "skin," anodizing does nothing.
__________________
Bill DeShivs, Master Cutler
www.billdeshivs.com
Bill DeShivs is offline  
Old June 17, 2018, 05:28 AM   #5
Mobuck
Senior Member
 
Join Date: February 2, 2010
Posts: 6,270
"Other than coloring and providing a hard "skin," anodizing does nothing."

That's exactly what anodizing is supposed to do.
Mobuck is offline  
Old June 17, 2018, 07:47 AM   #6
Mike38
Senior Member
 
Join Date: December 28, 2009
Location: North Central Illinois
Posts: 2,017
I believe the term "Raw" in metal working means pre machining, as in raw cast (as cast) parts. Maybe the OP means un-finished? Or would that be non-finished?
Mike38 is offline  
Old June 17, 2018, 07:54 PM   #7
44caliberkid
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 15, 2017
Location: Iowa
Posts: 177
Which parts? Do you mean upper and lower receiver? I'm plannng on doing one with a polished aluminum upper and lower. You can buy them unfinished from several sources.
44caliberkid is offline  
Old June 17, 2018, 08:41 PM   #8
wild willy
Senior Member
 
Join Date: March 8, 2006
Posts: 335
Just a question.Do you clearcoat them.How do keep your hands from getting black.
wild willy is offline  
Old June 17, 2018, 09:19 PM   #9
PlatinumCore16
Senior Member
 
Join Date: February 23, 2017
Location: Colorado
Posts: 360
Wouldn't recommend going non-anodized. Aluminum oxidizes very quickly upon contact with ambient air, but it's not nearly as strong or as clean a layer of protection as anodizing. That's why there is anodizing. Even cerakoted lowers/uppers are anodized first prior to coating.
PlatinumCore16 is offline  
Old June 17, 2018, 10:24 PM   #10
Chainsaw.
Senior Member
 
Join Date: September 12, 2015
Location: Issaquah WA. Its a dry rain.
Posts: 1,673
No real good reason. You can get 80 lowers that are already coated. As stated above aluminum will corrode, sooo, whats the point.
__________________
Just shoot the damn thing.
Chainsaw. is offline  
Old June 18, 2018, 12:50 AM   #11
KY_blkout
Member
 
Join Date: June 10, 2018
Posts: 68
Unless it is a pure "show" gun that will stay dry its whole life there isn't a great reason to do a raw lower. Most of the time the anodized 80 percent lowers are the same price as the raw ones.
KY_blkout is offline  
Old June 18, 2018, 01:49 AM   #12
mete
Senior Member
 
Join Date: June 14, 2004
Location: NY State
Posts: 6,527
The best anodize is the Military spec , black, the hardest anodize .
__________________
And Watson , bring your revolver !
mete is offline  
Old June 18, 2018, 06:08 AM   #13
Mobuck
Senior Member
 
Join Date: February 2, 2010
Posts: 6,270
Apparently, very few actually know what corroding aluminum looks like
Mobuck is offline  
Old June 19, 2018, 07:15 AM   #14
44caliberkid
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 15, 2017
Location: Iowa
Posts: 177
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mobuck View Post
Apparently, very few actually know what corroding aluminum looks like
It looks like the rocker box covers on my 1975 Harley Shovelhead.
44caliberkid is offline  
Old June 19, 2018, 03:27 PM   #15
Destructo6
Senior Member
 
Join Date: March 18, 1999
Location: Nogales, AZ USA
Posts: 3,925
You can do a clear anodize, too.
__________________
God gave you a soul.
Your parents, a body.
Your country, a rifle.

Keep all of them clean.
Destructo6 is offline  
Old June 20, 2018, 10:20 AM   #16
PlatinumCore16
Senior Member
 
Join Date: February 23, 2017
Location: Colorado
Posts: 360
Mete, there are actually 3 types of Mil-Spec hardcoat anodizing and each have their different purposes. The color does not matter, as destructor6 stated, you can even get a clear coat anodize that meets the mil-spec. The anodize that is used on AR parts is a type-III which is the thickest, and it is very hard. When I mean thickest, we're not talking like a chocolate bar though, it's still thin, however in respect to the other mil-spec-types of anodizing, it is the thickest.

Chainsaw, I'm not sure what you are saying. Anodized aluminum will not corrode, that's the point of the anodizing.
PlatinumCore16 is offline  
Old June 20, 2018, 10:26 AM   #17
stagpanther
Senior Member
 
Join Date: March 2, 2014
Posts: 5,206
Quote:
Apparently, very few actually know what corroding aluminum looks like
If you live near the ocean you probably do.
__________________
I screw things up--so you don't have to.
I am NOT an expert--I do not have any formal experience or certification in firearms use or testing; use any information I post at your own risk!
stagpanther is offline  
Old June 20, 2018, 10:29 AM   #18
LineStretcher
Senior Member
 
Join Date: June 14, 2018
Posts: 221
The majority of the manufacturers are not hard coat anodizing. A lot of them are using a paint that is comparable to ceramic exhaust header paint that you can buy at NAPA auto parts. Cerakote is another option and you can do that yourself if you want. I just use the Napa Auto Parts Ceramic paint and then bake them at 450 degrees for 15 minutes. They don't chip or scratch easily and touch up is a breeze. Not Milspec and not the best but I've done it to several and they still look new.
LineStretcher is offline  
Old June 20, 2018, 02:35 PM   #19
Chainsaw.
Senior Member
 
Join Date: September 12, 2015
Location: Issaquah WA. Its a dry rain.
Posts: 1,673
I ment that you can get 80% lower that already coated in more traditional AR coatings, which, while I dont have experience with anodizing on AR parts, I would guess would be "better" on an AR. Strictly speculative given my experience with anodizing on other things.
__________________
Just shoot the damn thing.
Chainsaw. is offline  
Old June 20, 2018, 03:51 PM   #20
LineStretcher
Senior Member
 
Join Date: June 14, 2018
Posts: 221
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chainsaw. View Post
I ment that you can get 80% lower that already coated in more traditional AR coatings, which, while I dont have experience with anodizing on AR parts, I would guess would be "better" on an AR. Strictly speculative given my experience with anodizing on other things.
Got it. Unfinished is probably gonna get pretty scrungy after a while. Coated might be easier to maintain.
LineStretcher is offline  
Old June 20, 2018, 05:25 PM   #21
AK Man
Member
 
Join Date: November 30, 2008
Posts: 29
I think you are asking about the 80% lower in the raw they call it.
Like these unfinished lowers.

After finishing you can paint with a good curable paint that is heat & solvent proof like VHT engine enamel.
http://www.vhtpaint.com/high-heat/vht-engine-enamel
Because you don't want to get your gun finished only to have the paint melt off the first time you take it out shooting or have it wash off when you try to clean it.
VHT engine enamel is a special paint that after letting it dry overnight needs to be cured by heating it to 200° for 20 to 30 minutes.

Or you could use Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black to coat your lower.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/BW-Casey-...-3-oz/23237703
It is easy to use. The way I use it is to clean the lower with alcohol then put it in boiling water to heat it up. When it is hot to the touch (it doesn't take long) put it in a one Gal. ziplock freezer bag & pour the Aluminum Black over the lower zip the bag closed then shake to coat. Repete heating & shaking until the get the color you want then wash off excess in cold water. To keep the coating on you need another clean Gal. ziplock bag to put the lower into then coat with a good quality gun oil & keep it warm for a day or so. Then wipe it off with dry rags.
Good luck with your build.
AK Man is offline  
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:41 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
This site and contents, including all posts, Copyright © 1998-2018 S.W.A.T. Magazine
Copyright Complaints: Please direct DMCA Takedown Notices to the registered agent: thefiringline.com
Contact Us
Page generated in 0.08016 seconds with 9 queries