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October 21, 2009, 07:00 PM | #1 |
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Media sticking to my cases
In the old days I would re-size rifle cases then remove the lube from each case by hand.
Then I read how people would throw the cases in their tumbler to remove the lube. I tried this and now I have 100 223 cases that have corn cob media stuck to them. I use Imperial sizing wax as my lube. Aside from wiping each case down by hand are there any recommendations for getting the corn cob off my cases? By the way I put them in the vibratory cleaner for an hou and a half to remove the lube. |
October 21, 2009, 07:10 PM | #2 |
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I size and deprime my rifle cases first. Then I wash them in really hot water. Let em dry and throw them in the tumbler. Corn cob media can be a real pain in the arse to get out of the cases. So I use finely ground walnut hulls. You can usually just tap the cases on something hard and it falls out. Sounds like you're gonna need a paper clip. Been there done that. If you try to get the lube off in the media it just ruins the media and makes a big mess.
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October 21, 2009, 08:46 PM | #3 |
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Use a cap or two of mineral spirits in with the brass and media. Also take a paper towel torn into 1 1/2" strips and add a few strips. This will clean the media and leave the bowl static free. I was amazed the first time I did it. There's nothing clinging to your cases. Not even fine dust. Even the inside of the bowl will be spotless. Discard the paper towel strips each time.
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October 21, 2009, 09:08 PM | #4 |
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As Horseman said... I use walnut media with paint thinner or mineral spirits. Works like a charm. Not sure how it would work with cob, but it couldn't hurt to give it a try. Be very sure to let any additive mix around in your media for at least ten minutes or so to evenly distribute it, before adding your brass. If you don't, you'll compound your stuck media in the case problem.
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October 22, 2009, 09:09 AM | #5 |
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To hitch onto Horseman...
My wife doesn't like Arm and Hammer dryer sheets - I got a great deal on a bunch of them....so....I cut a sheet into strips and add that to the media - it really does help - with static, dirt - oh, and they smell nice, too!
God bless. Margiesex And remember: Hug your God and your guns - 'cause he's coming for them both, and soon! |
October 22, 2009, 02:58 PM | #6 |
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I tired it once and only once with my 223 cases. I spent the next hour digging the walnut out of the primer holes.
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October 22, 2009, 10:26 PM | #7 |
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I tumble after I resize also. I keep seperate media for that. I resize on a single stage press. After I tumble them, I reload them on my progressive press. I use a Lee universal decapper to clear out the flash holes as I load. I haven't had a problem yet.
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October 22, 2009, 10:42 PM | #8 |
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I always complete ALL of my case prep, whether it's a complete prep or just neck sizing, decapping, wiping off lube, trimming if needed, chamfer/deburr if trim.....I always tumble after all case prep.
I really can't offer any answers to Your post, but I do know that a little moisture can cause media to stick to Your cases....even just a little bit of moisture. Like You, I'm an Imperial Sizing Wax fan. I use the Imperial Dry Neck Lube for the inside of case necks, and the Wax for the outside. I always wipe the cases clean (as clean as they'll come with a rag) then finish my prep, before I tumble. Is Your media fresh and new, or has it been used for awhile? Could it be time to rotate Your media, or renew it with one of the methods already posted? |
October 22, 2009, 11:23 PM | #9 |
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I toss my FMJ reloads in the tumbler to remove the case lube after the primer, powder, and bullet are installed. That way there are no holes for the media to get stuck in.
Haven't tried it with BTHP bullets as I wipe the lube off those cases by hand. They're too expensive to mass produce anyway. At least for me they are.
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October 23, 2009, 07:17 PM | #10 |
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Sport,
I really hate to sound like a Safety Inspector, but just so I know I said it, it's a little on the Dangerous Side, Tumbling Live Ammo. The tumbling action causes the items being tumbled to move quite erraticly, and the tip/meplat of a bullet can impact the primer, and we all know what happens......dotdotdot |
October 23, 2009, 08:05 PM | #11 |
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The ammo manufacturers tumble their loaded ammo. It is safe. I use Dillon lube and tumble loaded ammo with corn cob grits to remove it. Corn cob is cheaper than walnut and lasts longer in this application than walnut because it is more porous and absorbs more lube. Throw it out when it quits working. It should only take a few minutes. You might try a little solvent with the media to remove the lube, I use a little isopropyl alcohol which is the vehicle in the original lube. Do this with the tumbler outside as there is a remote possibility that the flammable solvent will be ignited by the motor. The motor is an induction motor and has no sparking brushes so is not terribly dangerous.
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October 23, 2009, 08:52 PM | #12 |
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I don't tumble them in a cement mixer that allows them to fall a couple of feet.
I tumble in a Lyman 1200 vibratory unit where they just kind of roll around in the media. They aren't shaken any more than when they are loose in an ammo can in my truck bouncing down some of the dirt/gravel roads around here.
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October 23, 2009, 11:41 PM | #13 |
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What? Trick question?
Yeah, it gets stuck in the case and flash hole. I like clean brass. You can't shortcut your way through the proc ess! It needs cleaned out. Suck it up man, it sucks. Good ammo costs. Pay the price! It's only 2200 rounds of 223, sic... |
October 24, 2009, 09:16 PM | #14 |
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tumbling loaded rounds... not completely safe.
Tumbling loaded rounds also acts on the powder inside each case. There have been instances (so I have heard) of powder being banged around enough to change the burn characteristics and lead to a dangerous pressure level.
Maybe an internet fable? Maybe true. Shiny cases are not worth me finding out for myself the hard way. They just get nasty when shot anyway........
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October 24, 2009, 10:22 PM | #15 |
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I've heard a similar story about tumbling live ammo.
Apparently a round going off isn't really an issue, but the powder can break down into smaller grains (like the media breaks down over time). This means more surface area on the powder and a faster burn rate. I don't know if it's enough to be dangerous, but I guess it can't be great for accuracy?? I heard this in this video - look around the 5:00 mark: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=atpDSlB_VJo Anyway, I get media sticking to my cases from static always, so I'm going to try the paper towel strips that was mentioned earlier~ |
October 24, 2009, 10:46 PM | #16 |
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G'day, Each time I see this title I think the Paparazzi keeps following you everywhere!
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October 24, 2009, 10:56 PM | #17 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
Maybe they ship ammo and powder on special vibration absorbing pallets?
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October 25, 2009, 03:42 AM | #18 |
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I think a tumbler is a much more concentrated and intense process than a bumpy ride to the range. Otherwise why don't you fill your ammo boxes with media and have nice shiny clean brass by the time you get there?
I was just throwing that video out there. I have no evidence either way but logic has me clean my brass before it goes through my press for the sake of my dies and getting that krud on my equipment. |
October 31, 2009, 08:30 AM | #19 |
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Quick update.
I don't think static is the reason the media is sticking to the cases. I believe the lube caused the media to stick to the cases. I added 2 caps of mineral spirits. Ran the tumbler for 15 minutes to allow it to incorporate. When I removed the cover the media appeared damp. Almost clumpy in spots. I am running the brass back through this morning. I added a dryer sheet cut into 4's. We will see what happens. Might just be my media is shot and it's time for new. |
October 31, 2009, 08:49 AM | #20 |
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Just pulled thee brass out after running for an hour and a half.
Media is no longer stuck to the case. Good thing. Cases still have a bit of residue. Gonna have to break down and wipe them all by hand. Media is very clumpy after adding 2 caps of mineral spirits. I am going to toss this media and start fresh. Don't think I will use the tumbler to remove case lube anymore. At least not if the lube is Imperial sizing die wax. |
October 31, 2009, 04:26 PM | #21 |
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If you are picking up range brass wash them in hot soapy water , rinse in piping hot water , Place them in a cake pan ( do not pile ) . Place in a 200 degree oven for 30 min. After thay are cool ( and this is why you want an electronic scale ) sort them by head stamp , resize and trim . I remove the sizing lube with a rag and laquer thinner Then weigh them and seperate them by weight . Try to keep them within 5 Gr. increments . Then tumble and load.
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November 2, 2009, 01:05 AM | #22 |
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Tumbling live Ammo; does powder break down?
Perhaps it might be a good idea to tumble some live ammo pull it apart and verify if the powder does break down? You got me curious now
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November 2, 2009, 06:17 AM | #23 |
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Tumbling live ammo zombie thread at THR.
Live ammo tumbling on Rimfire Central. From all I've read nobody that has pulled the bullets after tumbling noticed any difference in the looks of the powder and firing tumbled rounds showed no difference either. The folks who scream don't do it and swear up and down it will change the powder burn rate seem to be saying so out of an "it could happen" mindset and an overly cautious attitude. Those attributes aren't necessarily bad either. I don't worry about 15-20 minutes to remove case lube and if I forgot and let it run overnight I'd shoot those without undo concern as well.
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November 2, 2009, 08:07 AM | #24 |
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There's even a better way--take 50 rounds, randomly divide into two piles (randomly!), tumble half of them for an hour, the others not.
Then fire through a chrono and see if there's any difference. I accept that powder, jumbled against itself inside the case while being tumbled, would break down to some degree. If the ammo manufacturers do it, that suggests it's not a problem unless they use powder designed to tolerate that. |
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