Bullet Mold First Time Use Procedures

BlackPowderBen · December 28, 2015, 06:27 PM

What are the proper procedures for preparing a new bullet mold? I have another mold that I have been using and it works great but this new mold will not cast a ball, I pour in the lead and only a small amount goes in. What's the problem? (The mold is hot, I wasn't using it straight from the box, and I blackened all the insides up)

Hawg · December 28, 2015, 08:28 PM

Sometimes you have to make the hole in the sprue cutter a tad bigger to get good flow. Are you sure the lead is hot enough? All I do with most of mine is clean the packing grease out then put it to work. It's usually the big bullets and minies I have to open the hole up on.

swathdiver · December 28, 2015, 08:30 PM

Sounds like you're temp just isn't high enough.

I'm only familiar with Lee molds so my advice pertains to them.

Blackening the mold is seldom enough. I first take the molds apart and wash the blocks with soap and water, use acetone or mineral spirits if I think there is any oil left and then let them dry before continuing the prep process.

The round openings at the top of the blocks should be checked for burrs or out of round, a drill bit twirled in your fingers will square such a situation away easily, just use one barely big enough to do the job.

The sprue cutter should be removed and stoned flat, along with the top of the mold blocks that contact the sprue cutter. It is good to coat them both with graphite (pencil lead) and use a dab of beeswax or automotive anti-seize compound on the screw threads.

Then smoke the molds well, those 7" coffee sticks are great, they last just long enough to do one whole mold. Get the mold up to temp by letting it sit on top of your pot or furnace for a time and start casting. Don't expect the first dozen or so to come out perfect but after it gets to temp and gets "broke in", it will usually cast fine from then on from the start.

Hawg · December 28, 2015, 08:39 PM

Most of my molds are Lee and I've never done any of that.

swathdiver · December 29, 2015, 12:25 PM

Well Hawg, many of those steps are outlined in the papers that come with the mold. I'll admit, some of mine ran fine out of the box too.

However, after casting thousands of round ball for the sixguns, those molds were badly galled and stoning both the top of the blocks and the underside of the sprue plate eliminated that malady and made it easier to operate the cutter.

I have a couple newer molds with left hand screws, they seem to come loose more often than the older style!

Hawg · December 29, 2015, 12:40 PM

I've got one newer one with the cones for alignment pins. I haven't even used it yet. I took it out of the box but that's it. Still trying to get one of my melting pots working.

North East Redneck · December 31, 2015, 10:01 PM

I use Lee molds, soak them in white gas or lacquer thinner when they are new. Let them soak for a few hours. Preheat them on the lead pot and start casting. Tighten screws as needed. Have never needed to do more.
Only been casting for a couple years, so I do not know all the tricks, but I've had no issues. I cast conicals and RB.
My cast stuff is for plinking and practice, not serious target work.

Hawg · December 31, 2015, 10:40 PM

I started casting on moms stove with a bean can when I was 12.

bedbugbilly · January 1, 2016, 01:10 PM

BlackPowderBen -

You are probably going to get a variety of answers based on the experiences some have had. Some really "get in to it" when casting and are quite "high tech" . . others? . . not so much. I'm a "low tech caster" and have been for 50+ years.

If you or anybody else wants more information on casting, etc. . . .I recommend you go over to the castboolit site. Doesn't cost anything to join and there are not only "sticks" on what you are looking for but lot's of good reading and information the the various threads there.

In a nutshell . . thee are a variety of ways to prepare a mold depending on who you talk to . . . plus a few more things in terms of the actually "casting". Alloy you use (for BP you are using pure lead), getting you mold up to temperature, the cadence of your casting, etc. It's not "rocket science" though and anybody can learn to cast good balls/bullets.

You obviously have been casting so you know what's involved. As far as not filling out . . . if you mold is up to temperature, how about the heat of the lead you are pouring? Also, are you using a ladle or a bottom pour? I probably have about 75 or so molds in my collection that I use for not only RB but conical for reloading cartridges, etc. A wide variety of brands and materials - iron/steel, aluminum, brass. I have never had an issue with the size of any sprue hole as far as cavity fill out . . . but that is with my molds and there are those that i know that have had to alter the sprue plate. I can tell you though that each mold is a creature unto itself. I have some that drop like butter . . and a few that don't!

You don[t mention the size of your cavity you are pouring or if you are using a ladle or a bottom pour pot. I only use a bottom pour Lyman ladle - same one I started out with fifty some years ago. I pour over my main pot (on a gas hotplate) and always fill my ladle full - any "over run" runs off back into the pot - but that puts some pressure on the cavity fill. The largest I pour is a 500 + grain minie ball and I find the above to be the best to pour it and insure good even "fill". Smaller cavities such as a 90 grain or a 158 grain are a cinch - but I'm only using 2 cavity molds. I don't have any 6 cavity molds as I know that keeping the blocks evenly heated and a continuous pour of all six cavities is probably going to be a problem unless I had a bottom pour pot.

Not much help I know, but at least go check out the castboolit site as I think you'll find it an interesting site to look at. Good luck!

BlackPowderBen · January 1, 2016, 01:32 PM

Thank you for your help bbb, I'm dont have a botton pour furnace, just a $45 lee 5lb capacity furnace. I'm using a lee .457 2 capacity mold also, as i failed to mention earlier.

I'll go over to the castboolit site and do some reading
Thanks!

swathdiver · January 1, 2016, 04:30 PM

I almost bought one of those 5lb pots but paid another $20 for the 20lb bottom pour pot. Reason being, it's much easier to maintain temperature when casting a couple hundred rounds with a larger capacity of lead. Maintaining the temperature is what gets you consistent results, whether good or bad!

I use a six inch plumber's pot for smelting scrap lead into bars and use the furnace only for clean lead. I think it help keeps the bottom pour from leaking due to being fouled with dross.

BlackPowderBen · February 7, 2016, 02:48 PM

Just want to let all of you know that I got the mold working right now, thanks for your help

Hawg · February 7, 2016, 03:19 PM

Quote:

Just want to let all of you know that I got the mold working right now, thanks for your help

What did you do?

**4V50 Gary** · February 7, 2016, 09:18 PM

What Hawg asked. Waddaya do?

BlackPowderBen · February 7, 2016, 11:20 PM

Cleaned out the blackening, held a match under it and blackened it up some. The main thing was i didn't have my mold really hot enough and it had to break in. My .451 mold worked better when i first used it. Got the mold to the point that when i dipped the sprue cutter in the molten lead for 30 seconds it would come off when i took it out. SO after all that i got to make some balls for my walker

salvadore · February 8, 2016, 04:54 PM

Crap, so I didn't need to invest in the bean can?

Hawg · February 8, 2016, 05:50 PM

Quote:

Crap, so I didn't need to invest in the bean can?

Hey, it works in a pinch.

45 Dragoon · February 9, 2016, 12:12 AM

Yap, a "pinch" !!! Bet that's what yer mom did!!! (I know moms!!)

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks

Hawg · February 9, 2016, 12:48 AM

Nah, she didn't care.

johnwilliamson062 · February 10, 2016, 07:14 PM

I highly recommend you do not go to cast boolits. There is an overwhelming wealth of highly detailed, well written, and time proven knowledge about casting on that site.
Every time I go I just feel smaller.

December 28, 2015, 06:27 PM	#1
BlackPowderBen Senior Member Join Date: March 2, 2015 Posts: 380	Bullet Mold First Time Use Procedures What are the proper procedures for preparing a new bullet mold? I have another mold that I have been using and it works great but this new mold will not cast a ball, I pour in the lead and only a small amount goes in. What's the problem? (The mold is hot, I wasn't using it straight from the box, and I blackened all the insides up) __________________ "If you have to shoot, shoot! Dont talk"

December 28, 2015, 08:30 PM	#3
swathdiver Senior Member Join Date: December 19, 2012 Location: Treasure Coast, Florida Posts: 335	Sounds like you're temp just isn't high enough. I'm only familiar with Lee molds so my advice pertains to them. Blackening the mold is seldom enough. I first take the molds apart and wash the blocks with soap and water, use acetone or mineral spirits if I think there is any oil left and then let them dry before continuing the prep process. The round openings at the top of the blocks should be checked for burrs or out of round, a drill bit twirled in your fingers will square such a situation away easily, just use one barely big enough to do the job. The sprue cutter should be removed and stoned flat, along with the top of the mold blocks that contact the sprue cutter. It is good to coat them both with graphite (pencil lead) and use a dab of beeswax or automotive anti-seize compound on the screw threads. Then smoke the molds well, those 7" coffee sticks are great, they last just long enough to do one whole mold. Get the mold up to temp by letting it sit on top of your pot or furnace for a time and start casting. Don't expect the first dozen or so to come out perfect but after it gets to temp and gets "broke in", it will usually cast fine from then on from the start. __________________ “Gird up now thy loins like a man; for I will demand of thee, and answer thou me.” - Job 38:3

December 29, 2015, 12:25 PM	#5
swathdiver Senior Member Join Date: December 19, 2012 Location: Treasure Coast, Florida Posts: 335	Well Hawg, many of those steps are outlined in the papers that come with the mold. I'll admit, some of mine ran fine out of the box too. However, after casting thousands of round ball for the sixguns, those molds were badly galled and stoning both the top of the blocks and the underside of the sprue plate eliminated that malady and made it easier to operate the cutter. I have a couple newer molds with left hand screws, they seem to come loose more often than the older style! __________________ “Gird up now thy loins like a man; for I will demand of thee, and answer thou me.” - Job 38:3

December 31, 2015, 10:01 PM	#7
North East Redneck Senior Member Join Date: June 6, 2012 Location: Berkshire Hills Posts: 741	I use Lee molds, soak them in white gas or lacquer thinner when they are new. Let them soak for a few hours. Preheat them on the lead pot and start casting. Tighten screws as needed. Have never needed to do more. Only been casting for a couple years, so I do not know all the tricks, but I've had no issues. I cast conicals and RB. My cast stuff is for plinking and practice, not serious target work. __________________ NRA Patron Member SAF Life Member GOAL Member

January 1, 2016, 01:10 PM	#9
bedbugbilly Senior Member Join Date: November 19, 2009 Posts: 3,287	BlackPowderBen - You are probably going to get a variety of answers based on the experiences some have had. Some really "get in to it" when casting and are quite "high tech" . . others? . . not so much. I'm a "low tech caster" and have been for 50+ years. If you or anybody else wants more information on casting, etc. . . .I recommend you go over to the castboolit site. Doesn't cost anything to join and there are not only "sticks" on what you are looking for but lot's of good reading and information the the various threads there. In a nutshell . . thee are a variety of ways to prepare a mold depending on who you talk to . . . plus a few more things in terms of the actually "casting". Alloy you use (for BP you are using pure lead), getting you mold up to temperature, the cadence of your casting, etc. It's not "rocket science" though and anybody can learn to cast good balls/bullets. You obviously have been casting so you know what's involved. As far as not filling out . . . if you mold is up to temperature, how about the heat of the lead you are pouring? Also, are you using a ladle or a bottom pour? I probably have about 75 or so molds in my collection that I use for not only RB but conical for reloading cartridges, etc. A wide variety of brands and materials - iron/steel, aluminum, brass. I have never had an issue with the size of any sprue hole as far as cavity fill out . . . but that is with my molds and there are those that i know that have had to alter the sprue plate. I can tell you though that each mold is a creature unto itself. I have some that drop like butter . . and a few that don't! You don[t mention the size of your cavity you are pouring or if you are using a ladle or a bottom pour pot. I only use a bottom pour Lyman ladle - same one I started out with fifty some years ago. I pour over my main pot (on a gas hotplate) and always fill my ladle full - any "over run" runs off back into the pot - but that puts some pressure on the cavity fill. The largest I pour is a 500 + grain minie ball and I find the above to be the best to pour it and insure good even "fill". Smaller cavities such as a 90 grain or a 158 grain are a cinch - but I'm only using 2 cavity molds. I don't have any 6 cavity molds as I know that keeping the blocks evenly heated and a continuous pour of all six cavities is probably going to be a problem unless I had a bottom pour pot. Not much help I know, but at least go check out the castboolit site as I think you'll find it an interesting site to look at. Good luck! __________________ If a pair of '51 Navies were good enough for Billy Hickok, then a single Navy on my right hip is good enough for me . . . besides . . . I'm probably only half as good as he was anyways. Hiram's Rangers Badge #63

December 28, 2015, 08:28 PM	#2
Hawg Senior Member Join Date: September 8, 2007 Location: Mississippi Posts: 16,190	Sometimes you have to make the hole in the sprue cutter a tad bigger to get good flow. Are you sure the lead is hot enough? All I do with most of mine is clean the packing grease out then put it to work. It's usually the big bullets and minies I have to open the hole up on.

December 28, 2015, 08:39 PM	#4
Hawg Senior Member Join Date: September 8, 2007 Location: Mississippi Posts: 16,190	Most of my molds are Lee and I've never done any of that.

December 29, 2015, 12:40 PM	#6
Hawg Senior Member Join Date: September 8, 2007 Location: Mississippi Posts: 16,190	I've got one newer one with the cones for alignment pins. I haven't even used it yet. I took it out of the box but that's it. Still trying to get one of my melting pots working.

December 31, 2015, 10:40 PM	#8
Hawg Senior Member Join Date: September 8, 2007 Location: Mississippi Posts: 16,190	I started casting on moms stove with a bean can when I was 12.

January 1, 2016, 01:32 PM	#10
BlackPowderBen Senior Member Join Date: March 2, 2015 Posts: 380	Thank you for your help bbb, I'm dont have a botton pour furnace, just a $45 lee 5lb capacity furnace. I'm using a lee .457 2 capacity mold also, as i failed to mention earlier. I'll go over to the castboolit site and do some reading Thanks! __________________ "If you have to shoot, shoot! Dont talk"

January 1, 2016, 04:30 PM	#11
swathdiver Senior Member Join Date: December 19, 2012 Location: Treasure Coast, Florida Posts: 335	I almost bought one of those 5lb pots but paid another $20 for the 20lb bottom pour pot. Reason being, it's much easier to maintain temperature when casting a couple hundred rounds with a larger capacity of lead. Maintaining the temperature is what gets you consistent results, whether good or bad! I use a six inch plumber's pot for smelting scrap lead into bars and use the furnace only for clean lead. I think it help keeps the bottom pour from leaking due to being fouled with dross. __________________ “Gird up now thy loins like a man; for I will demand of thee, and answer thou me.” - Job 38:3

February 7, 2016, 02:48 PM	#12
BlackPowderBen Senior Member Join Date: March 2, 2015 Posts: 380	Just want to let all of you know that I got the mold working right now, thanks for your help __________________ "If you have to shoot, shoot! Dont talk"

February 7, 2016, 09:18 PM	#14
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,841	What Hawg asked. Waddaya do? __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*

February 8, 2016, 04:54 PM	#16
salvadore Junior member Join Date: January 1, 2007 Location: Idaho Posts: 2,282	Crap, so I didn't need to invest in the bean can?

February 9, 2016, 12:12 AM	#18
45 Dragoon Senior Member Join Date: June 14, 2013 Posts: 656	Yap, a "pinch" !!! Bet that's what yer mom did!!! (I know moms!!) Mike www.goonsgunworks.com Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks

February 9, 2016, 12:48 AM	#19
Hawg Senior Member Join Date: September 8, 2007 Location: Mississippi Posts: 16,190	Nah, she didn't care.

February 10, 2016, 07:14 PM	#20
johnwilliamson062 Junior member Join Date: May 16, 2008 Posts: 9,995	I highly recommend you do not go to cast boolits. There is an overwhelming wealth of highly detailed, well written, and time proven knowledge about casting on that site. Every time I go I just feel smaller.