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November 22, 2017, 05:08 PM | #26 |
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Usually a floated barrel is better than a contact barrel.
That said, I would go with (and do personally) with something thicker than a dollar bill. The contact solution was for a different stock setup, aka full military stock. Yes, sometimes it does help tame a recalcitrant barrel. There are some good suggestion on complete ego through and check all the basics as well. Most if not all of those would not have the barrel return to the original POI if they were in affect. It would be random.
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November 22, 2017, 05:48 PM | #27 |
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RC20, you're thinking of static conditions. When you fire vibrations in the barrel begin. So dollar bill clearance can become five dollars when shooting . Lighter barrels vibrate more , My 223 Kimber was fine with 'static clearance' but not shooting. I put a shim under the front of the barrel , raising the barrel to be really free floating -- cutting the groups in half !!
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November 22, 2017, 06:04 PM | #28 | |
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November 22, 2017, 09:58 PM | #29 |
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Could be
It might be just scope or mount related. I would try a different scope first and pay special attention to any shiny spots on scope tube or rings. Improper torque sequence of some brands of mounts will have the rings torqued on the scope tube yet loose on the mounts.
I traded off my scope to find out it was my fault not following mfg directions. |
November 23, 2017, 11:13 AM | #30 | |
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November 23, 2017, 11:55 AM | #31 | |
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Quote:
Last edited by reynolds357; November 23, 2017 at 02:51 PM. |
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November 23, 2017, 03:27 PM | #32 |
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I don't follow your point.
Setback and re-chamber is just that, it's barrel work, it's not truing an action. Problem is, the terms "blueprinted" and "trued" actions have no specific meanings. Plenty of rifle owners use 700 clones and "fully trued" actions that don't shoot off a bench. We all have our own opinions, but doing half a job- that may not help accuracy at all- isn't acceptable to me. If I true an action, the threads will be recut. The only thing "optional" to me is reaming the bolt raceway and replacing the bolt as in my experience satisfactory improvements can be had without that in most cases, unless the bolt is really sloppy. I don't work on Winchesters- but you're the one that stated "they are notorious for being off center axis". I'm assuming you mean the receiver threads, since it would be pretty tough to cut a chamber off center (oversize, sure- but not " off center"). I know of no way receiver threads can be brought perpendicular to the raceway without recutting them, which would require a new barrel. P!ease explain what I'm misunderstanding?
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November 23, 2017, 03:49 PM | #33 |
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You can get them good enough by doing what Larry Porterfield does in his youtube video "blueprinting a 700 action." I don't do it exactly that way, but close. I do almost all of it in the lathe, but same concept. Sure, I can and have done actions that required threads be enlarged and completely recut, but it's rare. The last one I did that required complete rethread was a Win WSM. It was a mess. I rethreaded a Remington takeoff barrel I got from CDNN for $40 to go on it. It shoots dime sized 5 shot groups at $100. Not wonderful but ok for $40 and two hours.
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December 4, 2017, 03:28 PM | #34 |
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The first thing I'd do is to increase the clearance between barrel and barrel channel to at least 1/16". Forget the dollar bill trick, it's NOT enough clearance.
Next, check to be sure the recoil shield is not bottoming out in the well. Increase clearance there. If there aren't pillars in at the stock screws, install some! I tend to use pieces of 1/2" steel tubing bought at Home Depot, then cut pieces to size and groove them with a moto-tool cutting disk. Glue them in with epoxy. If you want to be sure the bedding is okay, put an epoxy skim layer near both frond and rear screws. Then, if it still doesn't shoot great, sell it! JP |
December 5, 2017, 10:29 AM | #35 |
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I understand you have a rifle that walks after the first shot and you believe it is heat related. I can understand you just want a stable rifle.
I don't doubt a full true/blueprint and rebarrel with a bedding tuneup will fix it. Fair pay to your smith,it sounds expensive. I don't doubt the benefits of truing . Not arguing with anybody. Is the barrel shank bedded,or free floated.? I'd make sure the stock was not doing anything to the barrel.Get clearance....barrel shank,too. There are a number of things to pursue that may tighten groups. But specific to your problem I'm thinking the hole does not go straight down the center of the barrel . The thin wall side gets hotter ,quicker.It expands to longer. Your barrel is acting like a bimetal strip. Odds are good a new barrel is part of the solution. I'm thinking I'd do some inspection to determine how out of square the receiver is before I'd commit to recutting the threads.If its bad,its bad. But I can't leap to the conclusion the work needs done till the indicator says so. |
December 5, 2017, 07:48 PM | #36 |
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BC, I blueprint every non Savage, non Bat, action I build on. Every one of them need it.
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December 6, 2017, 05:56 PM | #37 | |
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I'll face the receiver, chase the threads with a bottoming tap, then use a plug gage to check thread alignment to quantify any misalignment. The barrel is by far the most important component, and based on the symptoms it's where I'd start if it were in my hands.
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December 6, 2017, 11:34 PM | #38 |
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Is it glass bedded with epoxy with recoil lugs bedded too. Could try shimming the action up out of the stock to float it more and then do the bedding. Idk every rifle ive shot would shoot 5 shots one after another 1moa or slightly worseb And ive never shot more than 5 in a row because thats the most i would dream if shooting in succession while hunting.
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Tags |
270 wsm , barrel , heat sensitivity , hot barrel |
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