January 27, 2011, 04:23 PM | #1 |
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ROA Question?
Thinking of getting a loading stand the kind where you put the cylinder on it and load all the cylinders then back into the frame. Is there a way of keeping Rugers loading mechanism from coming apart in pieces while I'm putting the cylinder in and out??? Figured you guys would know.
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To Each His Own And POUGE MAHONE!!! Last edited by bushrod2; January 27, 2011 at 05:28 PM. |
January 27, 2011, 04:40 PM | #2 |
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Superglue
......No just kidding....
None that I know of.
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January 27, 2011, 05:01 PM | #3 |
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It's the price that you pay for historical inaccuracy...no, no, I mean for owning such a fine firearm!
(Oh look, a hornet's nest!)
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Well we don't rent pigs and I figure it's better to say it right out front because a man that does like to rent pigs is... he's hard to stop - Gus McCrae |
January 27, 2011, 05:16 PM | #4 |
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Geez. Come on, guys. I mean, it's 3 (three) parts, for pity's sake.
I intentionally take them apart when I remove the cylinder, and I put them back together when I install the cylinder. Haven't broken any fingers or needed any stitches yet... |
January 27, 2011, 06:05 PM | #5 |
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When you put a transmission back together
you can hold the roller bearings in place with a little grease. I thought about using this technique with those parts but I figured it would be too messy.
I just let it fall apart and then put it back together. No matter how many times I do it, I always put the plunger back in upside down. It happens virtually every time. It is the way my mind works.
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January 27, 2011, 07:32 PM | #6 |
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Umm, tried standing on your head? Helps me with my S&W's.
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January 27, 2011, 10:49 PM | #7 |
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bushrod2, that's why I don't use a cylinder loading stand. The loading lever that comes with the ROA works great.
However, if you REALLY, REALLY, REALLY want the easiest solution then.... Get yourself a Belt Mountain base pin. |
January 29, 2011, 02:23 PM | #8 |
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ClemBert's fancy base pin is very nice; but, the thumb grip on his twist pin is the secret to facilitating ROA cylinder removal.
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January 29, 2011, 06:44 PM | #9 |
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i thought about buying a .45colt cylinder for my ROA,s, but i had this blackhawk in 45 colt/45 ACP in my gun room so i passed on one. i guess if you need a slow loading cylinder in 45 colt it,s ok. if both guns are shot empty i think i could load a black powder roa with one hole charged before a 45 colt cylinder could be taken out and reloaded and reinserted. one of you guys should try to reload as fast as you can and see. eastbank.
Last edited by eastbank; May 26, 2011 at 10:48 AM. |
January 30, 2011, 08:34 AM | #10 |
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Thanks for all the CONSIDERATE replys , not the smart A** ones.It's kind of a tough thing to do when you only have one arm.
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January 30, 2011, 09:35 AM | #11 |
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Why not just use the stock Ruger base pin without the loading lever and plunger if you are loading the cylinder on a loading stand?
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January 30, 2011, 09:59 AM | #12 |
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I think...
...that the real value in the modification that Clem came up with is in the toggle and not necessarily in the pin. BLE has a good solution if it is a real problem.
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January 30, 2011, 10:22 AM | #13 |
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Thats what I intend to do. Use the factory basepin without the loading lever and plunger. Or the loading lever and basepin without the plunger which is the real culprit and keeps falling off. Ill see which works best, Thanks for your ideas
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January 30, 2011, 10:28 AM | #14 |
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I shoot mine minus the loading lever and plunger in cap and ball revolver matches mostly because this horse-pistol is heavy and every ounce of weight removed helps when you are trying to shoot a good bullseye score.
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