The Firing Line Forums

Go Back   The Firing Line Forums > The Skunkworks > The Smithy

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old August 20, 2001, 01:07 AM   #1
Clead
Senior Member
 
Join Date: January 10, 2000
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 110
Is it feasible to [i]make[/i] a muzzle brake in a home shop?

Hi guys, I'm building a shorty(19-20" bbl) No4Mk1 Enfield out of a barreled action I bought, and I can't find a muzzle brake that will work for me. I can get stainless steel stock at work, and I was wondering if it's a precision kind of job, or if I can just drill out the center of a 1.000" rod to a safe .350" or so, and then drill out gas ports on the top and sides. Is there something more to it, or is this at least safe to play around with, if not entirely effective? I had thought I would thread the barrel and brake and then tack-weld them in place. Does this sound safe? Should I start with .750 stock or 1.000 stock? Please let me know as I would like to start this project in the near future.
Thanks,
Clead
__________________
"Molon Labe" & "Molon Latte" -I'd rather die than live unarmed and uncaffienated
Clead is offline  
Old August 20, 2001, 07:30 AM   #2
George Stringer
Staff Alumnus
 
Join Date: October 12, 1998
Location: Earlington KY
Posts: 2,299
Clead, it's feasible. The minimum inside diameter is .040" over bore diameter so a .350" you'll be ok. I'd start with stock as close to my finished outside diameter as possible. The holes can be just about anything you want. You can experiment with different sizes, shapes, and locations until you find what works the best. With a bolt action rifle you don't have to weld the brake unless you just want to. If the bore and brake are aligned correctly it will be safe. George
George Stringer is offline  
Old August 20, 2001, 08:40 AM   #3
rr41mag
Senior Member
 
Join Date: June 25, 2000
Location: Biloxi, Miss.
Posts: 180
I to had thought of putting a muzzle break on my rifle. I turned down a "mock" barrel end at work to match the diameter of the barrel on my rifle. I then made a break out of a chunk of stainless (347) drilled and tapped then threaded the barrel(die). When all was done I put it back in the lathe to dial it in(check my work) and the break was way out. I now know I should have single pointed the threads and never have taken the break out of the lathe. Just some food for thought.
__________________
A son is the best friend you'll ever have!
rr41mag is offline  
Old August 20, 2001, 07:32 PM   #4
Clead
Senior Member
 
Join Date: January 10, 2000
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 110
Thanks guys. Any suggestion on a good wall thickness for a full power cartridge? I'll get some stock from work and give it a shot. If I use .750 then I'll have a .200 wall thickness. Will that be sufficient on t-314?
Wish me luck,
Clead
__________________
"Molon Labe" & "Molon Latte" -I'd rather die than live unarmed and uncaffienated
Clead is offline  
Old August 20, 2001, 09:44 PM   #5
Mike Irwin
Staff
 
Join Date: April 13, 2000
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 39,177
Why not just go with cross pins to keep the brake in place?

Sort of like how the front sight assembly is held on an SKS, or how an S&W revolver barrel is locked into the frame (pre-1982 S&Ws).
__________________
"The gift which I am sending you is called a dog, and is in fact the most precious and valuable possession of mankind" -Theodorus Gaza

Baby Jesus cries when the fat redneck doesn't have military-grade firepower.
Mike Irwin is offline  
Old September 24, 2001, 10:06 PM   #6
weagle
Senior Member
 
Join Date: September 4, 2001
Location: atlanta GA
Posts: 107
I'll throw in my completely uneducated 2 cents. Leave the barrell 2 inches longer than want. Cut slots or drill the desired holes you want throught the bore. Then back bore the muzzel to 35 caliber far enough to clear out the ports. Very simple and cheap and you have nothing to lose. If it doesn't work , simply cut it off and proceed as described above.

BTW I thought the barrel porting was a great idea until I bought a couple of guns with the ports. They are LOUD and they blow dust everywhere when you are shooting from a bench.
weagle is offline  
Old September 25, 2001, 02:09 AM   #7
Clead
Senior Member
 
Join Date: January 10, 2000
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 110
Weagle, that's pretty funny. I just came back to this post to mention that very possibilty! The action will be back from the shop in a week or two. They're putting a Williams front ramp/sight on it for me. I'll post some pics IF it ever gets done! What's the best way to back-bore? Lathe? or can I use my drill press since the .311 pilot hole is already drilled? Thanks for the reply.
__________________
"Molon Labe" & "Molon Latte" -I'd rather die than live unarmed and uncaffienated
Clead is offline  
Old September 25, 2001, 03:03 PM   #8
weagle
Senior Member
 
Join Date: September 4, 2001
Location: atlanta GA
Posts: 107
Clead, As I mentioned, I'm totally uneducaded when it comes to machining. I would think you could use most any method that would leave you with good even rifleing at end. After all the overbored portion is not going to contact the bullet.
weagle is offline  
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:40 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
This site and contents, including all posts, Copyright © 1998-2017 S.W.A.T. Magazine
Copyright Complaints: Please direct DMCA Takedown Notices to the registered agent: thefiringline.com
Contact Us
Page generated in 0.06813 seconds with 9 queries