i read alot of 1911 feed problems

hal becker · March 30, 1999, 03:55 PM

I don't see anyone posting about full length
guide rods, I had same trouble as alot of posts about the spring scrunching and slide
staying open, springs wear out but one thing
is the 2 piece guide rods seem to keep the
spring from binding up on recoil, recoil C-P
Buffs help save wear too, my 1911 spring must
have died cause my slide just kept staying open after each shot, I replaced with Wolff
extra power 22 pound spring, I've been shooting heavy 230 gr FMJ and I'll see if I
need to go down to 20, has anyone tried
Metalform mags with one piece metal follower?
if anyone needs parts theres a place in Illinois that sells wholesale and has all
1911 parts, I mean all including Baer custom
slide and frames and Para-Ordanance frames too, all in the white, I would like to build a .45 Super with Kart ramped barrel and new
Baer custom slide on Para-Ordanance frame,
high capacity .45 Super, yeah someday

Art Eatman · March 30, 1999, 11:21 PM

Most Colt feeding problems stem from magazine lips being a bit "off", which is why God invented needle-nosed pliers. Maybe ten percent of feeding problems involve the ramp or some misalignment; said misalignment often stemming from efforts of would-be gunsmiths...

I've fired a lot of GI Ball ammo, and while I would agree that a recoil buffer would be helpful, I've never had any problems with the "hot stuff". With or without guide rods has never had any effect whatsoever in my various Government models.

I like to stay with the KISS principle, and a lot of problems with the 1911 seem to follow some not-well-done efforts to "improve" the pistol...

A fellow named Halleck has an inexpensive book with info on accurizing and tweaking the Government model. His ideas have been trouble-free for me.

As with race-motors, one tweak at a time is the safest way to go. You at least will know if any change is "better or worster".

Buena suerte, Art

James K · March 30, 1999, 11:45 PM

I mentioned on another thread that a lot of spring problems with the M1911/A1 type guns can be alleviated by making sure that the recoil spring guide is rounded off rather than flat on the front end. It should look a little like a 9mm hollowpoint rather than like the end of a barrel. It's easy to round off if it is flat, and this can work wonders. Nothing wrong with full length or two piece guides, but KISS, at least until you know the simple won't work. (Lest I be misunderstood, KISS means Keep It Simple, Son.)

James K · March 30, 1999, 11:50 PM

On the magazines, I agree that bad mag lips are a cause of many problems, but a lot of that is due to trash mags that are not properly tempered or are made of soft steel that can't be tempered. If the mag lips are bad, the pliers can help but probably will be needed again and again as the "fix" won't hold. (FYI, I use only WW II GI mags, but those are getting scarce; I bought a bunch at $.50 each way back then. Hell, the whole darn gun was only $39.95 retail or $17.50 from DCM.)

George Stringer · March 31, 1999, 07:38 AM

Hal, the guys are right. Magazines are the biggest contributor to feeding malfunctions in the 1911. I don't think the heavier spring is the answer to your slide locking problem. It may force the gun to work, but unless you went to heavier loads you may also see other failures. Failures to eject in particular, hammer bounce could be another. Your slide stop needs a little attention. The nose of the bullet is hitting it as it rises and locking the slide. If you will look at the inside part of the stop you will probably see brass marks where it has come into contact with the bullet nose. Fill this back a little and try. Repeat until the bullet doesn't touch it anymore. George

hal becker · March 31, 1999, 02:40 PM

I did go to alot heavier load, and the slide
was stuck back not on slide stop, I had to
hit the slide with my palm to get it forward,
took the gun apart to see what was wrong and
no metal galling or dirt to hang it up like
it did, compared spring to others I carry
and looked the same, but all were Colt factory replacements, thats when I saw the AD
for guide rod, it makes sense because the spring has to bend side ways on recoil and
hit against barrel and frame, with the rod it stays in a line not touching other parts,
even with rod I had to go to 20 lb spring or higher because empties were being flung 20
feet behind me with alot of velocity, with
22 lb spring their landing a few feet to my
right, the mags I buy are Metalform with
rounded metal follower, yeah I've bought the
$5 mags that allways cause a stopage, weak springs, flat stamped followers that bend
like their made out of tin, the mags I buy
are $7.50, either come with metal or rubber
follower, metal seems to be slicker. the 1911
is tried and true with military ball,but with
the +p loads on the market or ones I load it
won't work without some new tech, I think
the gun allways lacked the guide rod, it takes more time to take apart, but adds alot
to reliable functioning, to each his own,I'm
not pushing guide rods, if ya stay within
pressures the gun was designed for then no
problems,and also each extra power recoil
spring comes with longer stronger firing pin spring, to keep gun from slam firing I guess

James K · April 2, 1999, 10:45 AM

Hal,

Ever consider that your loads just might be too hot? Flinging empties 20 feet is not normal! Cut back and your gun will last longer and shooting becomes fun instead of punishment. If you are going to hunt elephants, get an elephant gun, don't try to make one out of a .45.

Happy shooting!

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March 30, 1999, 03:55 PM	#1
hal becker Member Join Date: March 19, 1999 Location: U.S.A. Posts: 15	I don't see anyone posting about full length guide rods, I had same trouble as alot of posts about the spring scrunching and slide staying open, springs wear out but one thing is the 2 piece guide rods seem to keep the spring from binding up on recoil, recoil C-P Buffs help save wear too, my 1911 spring must have died cause my slide just kept staying open after each shot, I replaced with Wolff extra power 22 pound spring, I've been shooting heavy 230 gr FMJ and I'll see if I need to go down to 20, has anyone tried Metalform mags with one piece metal follower? if anyone needs parts theres a place in Illinois that sells wholesale and has all 1911 parts, I mean all including Baer custom slide and frames and Para-Ordanance frames too, all in the white, I would like to build a .45 Super with Kart ramped barrel and new Baer custom slide on Para-Ordanance frame, high capacity .45 Super, yeah someday

March 30, 1999, 11:21 PM	#2
Art Eatman Staff in Memoriam Join Date: November 13, 1998 Location: Terlingua, TX; Thomasville, GA Posts: 24,798	Most Colt feeding problems stem from magazine lips being a bit "off", which is why God invented needle-nosed pliers. Maybe ten percent of feeding problems involve the ramp or some misalignment; said misalignment often stemming from efforts of would-be gunsmiths... I've fired a lot of GI Ball ammo, and while I would agree that a recoil buffer would be helpful, I've never had any problems with the "hot stuff". With or without guide rods has never had any effect whatsoever in my various Government models. I like to stay with the KISS principle, and a lot of problems with the 1911 seem to follow some not-well-done efforts to "improve" the pistol... A fellow named Halleck has an inexpensive book with info on accurizing and tweaking the Government model. His ideas have been trouble-free for me. As with race-motors, one tweak at a time is the safest way to go. You at least will know if any change is "better or worster". Buena suerte, Art

March 30, 1999, 11:45 PM	#3
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	I mentioned on another thread that a lot of spring problems with the M1911/A1 type guns can be alleviated by making sure that the recoil spring guide is rounded off rather than flat on the front end. It should look a little like a 9mm hollowpoint rather than like the end of a barrel. It's easy to round off if it is flat, and this can work wonders. Nothing wrong with full length or two piece guides, but KISS, at least until you know the simple won't work. (Lest I be misunderstood, KISS means Keep It Simple, Son.)

March 30, 1999, 11:50 PM	#4
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	On the magazines, I agree that bad mag lips are a cause of many problems, but a lot of that is due to trash mags that are not properly tempered or are made of soft steel that can't be tempered. If the mag lips are bad, the pliers can help but probably will be needed again and again as the "fix" won't hold. (FYI, I use only WW II GI mags, but those are getting scarce; I bought a bunch at $.50 each way back then. Hell, the whole darn gun was only $39.95 retail or $17.50 from DCM.)

March 31, 1999, 07:38 AM	#5
George Stringer Staff Alumnus Join Date: October 12, 1998 Location: Earlington KY Posts: 2,299	Hal, the guys are right. Magazines are the biggest contributor to feeding malfunctions in the 1911. I don't think the heavier spring is the answer to your slide locking problem. It may force the gun to work, but unless you went to heavier loads you may also see other failures. Failures to eject in particular, hammer bounce could be another. Your slide stop needs a little attention. The nose of the bullet is hitting it as it rises and locking the slide. If you will look at the inside part of the stop you will probably see brass marks where it has come into contact with the bullet nose. Fill this back a little and try. Repeat until the bullet doesn't touch it anymore. George

March 31, 1999, 02:40 PM	#6
hal becker Member Join Date: March 19, 1999 Location: U.S.A. Posts: 15	I did go to alot heavier load, and the slide was stuck back not on slide stop, I had to hit the slide with my palm to get it forward, took the gun apart to see what was wrong and no metal galling or dirt to hang it up like it did, compared spring to others I carry and looked the same, but all were Colt factory replacements, thats when I saw the AD for guide rod, it makes sense because the spring has to bend side ways on recoil and hit against barrel and frame, with the rod it stays in a line not touching other parts, even with rod I had to go to 20 lb spring or higher because empties were being flung 20 feet behind me with alot of velocity, with 22 lb spring their landing a few feet to my right, the mags I buy are Metalform with rounded metal follower, yeah I've bought the $5 mags that allways cause a stopage, weak springs, flat stamped followers that bend like their made out of tin, the mags I buy are $7.50, either come with metal or rubber follower, metal seems to be slicker. the 1911 is tried and true with military ball,but with the +p loads on the market or ones I load it won't work without some new tech, I think the gun allways lacked the guide rod, it takes more time to take apart, but adds alot to reliable functioning, to each his own,I'm not pushing guide rods, if ya stay within pressures the gun was designed for then no problems,and also each extra power recoil spring comes with longer stronger firing pin spring, to keep gun from slam firing I guess

April 2, 1999, 10:45 AM	#7
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	Hal, Ever consider that your loads just might be too hot? Flinging empties 20 feet is not normal! Cut back and your gun will last longer and shooting becomes fun instead of punishment. If you are going to hunt elephants, get an elephant gun, don't try to make one out of a .45. Happy shooting!