New Ruger 77/44, Tight screw to stock

Longshot4 · December 4, 2019, 06:41 PM

So I want to remove the stock and cant remove screw. It is large slotted but wont budge. Am I expected to purchase a $100 tool set to remove it of can I use a impact driver with a well fitting slotted driver. What's up with the heavy torque.

std7mag · December 4, 2019, 07:33 PM

Impact driver, NO!

Use a hollow ground straight bit that fits perfectly with the slot. You can dab a touch of valve grinding compound to the tip (available at any auto parts store).
Use 1/4" drive ratchet. With socket that fits the bit. (Typically 1/4")
With rifle in vise, use one hand on head of ratchet, the other to apply pressure.

Remember, righty tighty, lefty loosey.

**Unclenick** · December 7, 2019, 06:29 PM

Well, you don't want to use a manual hammer-driven impact driver, for sure. A hammer drill with a slow speed setting might be acceptable if the screw is severely over-torqued. Just be prepared to replace the screw if heavy-duty means have to be employed to get it out. You might want to check on the availability of that, first.

**44 AMP** · December 8, 2019, 02:19 AM

You might consider talking to the people at Ruger. A tech, not the phone clerk. Find out if the screw "should" be removable, and if its not meant to be taken out, don't.

If its something that is meant to be periodically removed (like removing the stock) if its too stuck to come out with normal means, it might be something the factory needs to fix.

I'd at least talk to the tech guys at Ruger, first.

Consider a worst case situation, the screw is in so tight (for whatever reason) that you twist the head off trying to get it out. If that happens, you might need to send it to Ruger, anyway...

T. O'Heir · December 8, 2019, 02:16 PM

"...What's up with the heavy torque..." Simple. Ruger doesn't want you fiddling with it. Really tight, like any screw on a car(put in with a nuclear screw driver), is the result of the fear the manufacturers have of a screw coming loose. As daft as that sounds.
No impact drivers. A drop or two of penetrating oil with the rifle in a padded vice and a long screwdriver.
And there are 2 stock screws.(Gunparts has an exploded drawing). One goes through the trigger group into the tang of the receiver. The other goes through the stock into the receiver under the chamber. Either one of 'em can be held in with torque or Lock-Tite. The latter requires a bit of heat(No torches. A soldering iron on the screw will do.) to loosen.

SGW Gunsmith · December 11, 2019, 01:27 PM

There's no reason why you can't use an impact wrench as long as you use a well fitting hollow ground driver bit. Just don't use a 10 pound sledge hammer. Tapping lightly on the top end of the impact driver while you turn it should do the trick. And, if you have any "Kroil" handy, try a few drops of that around the screw head before applying the impact wrench.
Brownells will have the perfect size driver bit that you need for around $4.00.

Longshot4 · January 12, 2020, 03:26 PM

I finaly was able to get back to the screw. I was able to pickup a over size 5/16 drive 3/8 bit from Great Lakes ACE hardware. I hand ground on bench grinder to required width and just flattened the front and back faces for a tight fitting bite of the screw. Put the bit in a 3/8" 1/4" drive socket and placed it in my ratchet. It worked like a charm.

I Thank all of you for your replies.

December 4, 2019, 06:41 PM	#1
Longshot4 Senior Member Join Date: February 22, 2014 Posts: 868	New Ruger 77/44, Tight screw to stock So I want to remove the stock and cant remove screw. It is large slotted but wont budge. Am I expected to purchase a $100 tool set to remove it of can I use a impact driver with a well fitting slotted driver. What's up with the heavy torque.

December 4, 2019, 07:33 PM	#2
std7mag Senior Member Join Date: June 23, 2013 Location: Central Taxylvania.. Posts: 3,609	Impact driver, NO! Use a hollow ground straight bit that fits perfectly with the slot. You can dab a touch of valve grinding compound to the tip (available at any auto parts store). Use 1/4" drive ratchet. With socket that fits the bit. (Typically 1/4") With rifle in vise, use one hand on head of ratchet, the other to apply pressure. Remember, righty tighty, lefty loosey. __________________ When our own government declares itself as "tyrannical", where does that leave us??!! "Januarary 6th insurrection". Funny, I didn't see a single piece of rope...

December 7, 2019, 06:29 PM	#3
Unclenick Staff Join Date: March 4, 2005 Location: Ohio Posts: 21,061	Well, you don't want to use a manual hammer-driven impact driver, for sure. A hammer drill with a slow speed setting might be acceptable if the screw is severely over-torqued. Just be prepared to replace the screw if heavy-duty means have to be employed to get it out. You might want to check on the availability of that, first. __________________ Gunsite Orange Hat Family Member CMP Certified GSM Master Instructor NRA Certified Rifle Instructor NRA Benefactor Member and Golden Eagle

December 8, 2019, 02:19 AM	#4
44 AMP Staff Join Date: March 11, 2006 Location: Upper US Posts: 28,818	You might consider talking to the people at Ruger. A tech, not the phone clerk. Find out if the screw "should" be removable, and if its not meant to be taken out, don't. If its something that is meant to be periodically removed (like removing the stock) if its too stuck to come out with normal means, it might be something the factory needs to fix. I'd at least talk to the tech guys at Ruger, first. Consider a worst case situation, the screw is in so tight (for whatever reason) that you twist the head off trying to get it out. If that happens, you might need to send it to Ruger, anyway... __________________ All else being equal (and it almost never is) bigger bullets tend to work better.

December 8, 2019, 02:16 PM	#5
T. O'Heir Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2002 Location: Canada Posts: 12,453	"...What's up with the heavy torque..." Simple. Ruger doesn't want you fiddling with it. Really tight, like any screw on a car(put in with a nuclear screw driver), is the result of the fear the manufacturers have of a screw coming loose. As daft as that sounds. No impact drivers. A drop or two of penetrating oil with the rifle in a padded vice and a long screwdriver. And there are 2 stock screws.(Gunparts has an exploded drawing). One goes through the trigger group into the tang of the receiver. The other goes through the stock into the receiver under the chamber. Either one of 'em can be held in with torque or Lock-Tite. The latter requires a bit of heat(No torches. A soldering iron on the screw will do.) to loosen. __________________ Spelling and grammar count!

December 11, 2019, 01:27 PM	#6
SGW Gunsmith Junior member Join Date: December 31, 2014 Location: Northwest Wisconsin Posts: 285	There's no reason why you can't use an impact wrench as long as you use a well fitting hollow ground driver bit. Just don't use a 10 pound sledge hammer. Tapping lightly on the top end of the impact driver while you turn it should do the trick. And, if you have any "Kroil" handy, try a few drops of that around the screw head before applying the impact wrench. Brownells will have the perfect size driver bit that you need for around $4.00.

January 12, 2020, 03:26 PM	#7
Longshot4 Senior Member Join Date: February 22, 2014 Posts: 868	I finaly was able to get back to the screw. I was able to pickup a over size 5/16 drive 3/8 bit from Great Lakes ACE hardware. I hand ground on bench grinder to required width and just flattened the front and back faces for a tight fitting bite of the screw. Put the bit in a 3/8" 1/4" drive socket and placed it in my ratchet. It worked like a charm. I Thank all of you for your replies.