Fitting new safety to 1911

[P71pilot]

Today or tomorrow I have several parts coming for my 1911. The only part that will require any fitting will be a Colt brand teardrop style right hand use only thumb safety.

Now before I tackle this installment of safety, I will do my proper research on doing the task, as I did before I successfully fitted a Harrison designs trigger to my pistol. But I frequent TFL forum more than any other website and figured I would try and get some tips here from you knowledgeable folks.

I realize I have to first fit the safety to the frame, then check for and address any sear movement with safety engaged. I realize that you want zero sear movement when trigger is pulled with safety engaged. I am hoping this is a fairly easy task, and I have access to pretty much any file you could get your hands on. I know that you need check fitment after you take any material away. I have cheap dial caliper that is fairly accurate.


So, do any of you 1911 guys have any tips or suggestions on fitting a thumb safety? I am going to watch several videos on YouTube and do quite a bit of reading before I even strip the gun down.


Besides the safety I have these items coming

-Hogue fancy checkered goncalo alves grips
-C&S flathead grip screws
-Ed brown GI style recoil guide
-Ed brown GI style recoil plug/cap
-Colt brand 7rd standard magazine



P.S,

I know that the Smithy area may have been more appropriate but I figured I would get more views and responses in the Semi auto pistol section.

Thanks all,

P71pilot

[shaunpain]

I don't have anything specific to tell you other than the fact that I've fit a safety once and it was pretty easy to figure out after reading some manuals about it. Go slow and good luck.

[P71pilot]

Thanks, yes I just watched a few videos and the trickiest part will be matching the safeties "sear stud" to the sear, which doesn't really look difficult at all to me. The biggest thing seems to be just check fit often as the tighter the better, and you want to match the Sears shape and size exactly so to keep the sear from traveling back.

[RickB]

Not related to fitting to the sear, but "detail" the back edges to prevent/reduce scratching of the frame and frictional drag.
I run a fine stone - could also use a file - along the entire back side, to get any burrs or roughness, and pay special attention to the edges.

[Aguila Blanca]

Originally Posted by P71pilot

I realize I have to first fit the safety to the frame, then check for and address any sear movement with safety engaged. I realize that you want zero sear movement when trigger is pulled with safety engaged. I am hoping this is a fairly easy task, and I have access to pretty much any file you could get your hands on. I know that you need check fitment after you take any material away. I have cheap dial caliper that is fairly accurate.

There is no fitting of a thumb safety to the frame. If it won't drop into the frame when the hammer and sear are removed, it's defective and you should send it back.

The only fitting is for hammer/sear engagement, and you don't need a caliper for that. What you hope for is a perfect, drop-in fit. That happens maybe 5% of the time. If the safety drops in but there's any movement of the trigger when the safety is engaged -- it's no good for that pistol. If it's not a perfect drop-in, you want a safety that WON'T engage because it's too big. Then you just file it until it engages, with no slop.

Work slowly, a couple of file strokes at a time and then test. A couple more strokes, and then test.

[P71pilot]

I have the MSH, mainspring, leaf spring, and plunger and old safety out now. Ready to fit new safety whenever it gets here. Also can't wait to see what these goncalo alves grips look like.

[Fade2Grey]

Jerry Kunhausen (may be spelled wrong) has a book/shop manual on the 1911 that is very helpful. It has pictures and step by step instructions.

The only tips I have are go slow and be patient. Light file strokes with a smooth file, testing frequently. The difference between a crisp, tactile feel of a 1911 thumb safety can be a matter of one or two file strokes.

Good luck and please share the results!

[michael t]

Before you whip out the file Some times they fit right from seller. I had a Wilson went in a Colt . Perfect . No file needed.

[Paul105]

There are several youtube videos -- here is one by Wilson Combat

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rd5m-Adc97o

[Nathan]

There is no fitting of a thumb safety to the frame. If it won't drop into the frame when the hammer and sear are removed, it's defective and you should send it back.

I have fit 2 safeties to my SA frame. The King's did not require this. The Wilson did.

Also, the pad on the sear may need fitting.

Last, make sure you check with the pistol fully assembled for sear movement. The safety goes higher with the slide off.

[P71pilot]

I got my parts today and successfully installed the Colt single sided teardrop style thumb safety. As well as swapped out the 2 piece full length guide rod with an Ed brown GI style plug and rod. These Hogue goncalo alves look pretty nice, and the C&S flathead grip screws compliment them well.

[P71pilot]

I am trying to upload photos but they are from my phone, and I am on the forum on my phone. Well even when I crop the photos as small as I can the images are still much too big. Oh well

[pistolwretch]

"There is no fitting of a thumb safety to the frame. If it won't drop into the frame when the hammer and sear are removed, it's defective and you should send it back."

I've fit a LOT of thumb safeties in 30+ years of smithing the 1911.
MOST of them required some fitting to the frame.

"If the safety drops in but there's any movement of the trigger when the safety is engaged -- it's no good for that pistol."

I've never seen a 1911 thumb safety that prevented any trigger movement.
But I have not seen everything.
Just my opinion.

[gyvel]

A helpful hint: Remove the grip safety while fitting the safety so you can actually see how it engages the sear. (After you remove the grip safety, the mainspring housing is reinstalled and partially pinned to keep tension on the sear and disconnector.)

[gyvel]

I've never seen a 1911 thumb safety that prevented any trigger movement.

I think he meant trigger movement that partially disengages the sear. Obviously the trigger has free movement before the stirrup even contacts the sear.

[polyphemus]

The thumb safety when engaged blocks the sear from rotating,the grip safety
if not depressed blocks the trigger from moving fully rearward.
Both safeties allow a certain amount of trigger travel or slack but still prevent
unintended discharge.