cylinder stop scoring cylinder too much?

vanfunk · August 20, 1999, 01:50 PM

I'm kinda new to revolvers, and just picked up a used S&W 29-3. It appears to have been fired very little, although I'm concerned by the pattern of scoring around the cylinder by the cylinder stop. The trailing edge of the cylinder "detent" is a bit eroded on each chamber- it looks as though the cylinder is turning before the cylinder stop can get out of the way, but I can't seem to observe this phenomenon when I cock the hammer. I know it's hard to diagnose a problem without seeing the piece, but I'd love some advice regarding this "problem". Is this just normal wear? Also, the trigger "sticks" a little bit when I release the tension after firing it. Did I buy a dud? Thanks in advance for your help.

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semper ubi sub ubi

**4V50 Gary** · August 20, 1999, 02:17 PM

When you test for timing, try it in both the single action mode and the double action mode. For either, the cylinder stop should disengage the cylinder notch prior to the hand engaging the ratchet (causing the cylinder to rotate).

Prior to the cylinder reaching full rotation, the cylinder stop should pop up into the forward leading edge of the cylinder notch. This is to ensure that the cylinder stop is present in time to prevent overrotation. On a police service gun, we were taught that it was OK to have the cylinder stop pop up half way between cylinders. For police work, external wear on the cylinder was acceptable to ensure that the firearm functioned properly.

What you don't want is for the cylinder stop to pop up immediately after it disengages the cylinder stop.

Concerning poor trigger return, it could be as simple as the gun being very dirty internally and a dissassembly followed by a good scrubbing by a gunsmith is required. Alternatively, the rebound slide spring has a burr and needs polishing. Or the part of the rebound slide which houses the rebound slide spring needs polishing. I've also seen it caused by a severely bent rebound spring. It could also be the hand/pawl getting stuck in the window or dragging on the window. It could also be that the trigger is binding against something or the cylinder stop and trigger hook aren't working properly together.

Everything is fixable, you need only find yourself a good gunsmith. Shucks, isn't it under warranty from the seller?

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August 20, 1999, 01:50 PM	#1
vanfunk Senior Member Join Date: June 19, 1999 Posts: 472	I'm kinda new to revolvers, and just picked up a used S&W 29-3. It appears to have been fired very little, although I'm concerned by the pattern of scoring around the cylinder by the cylinder stop. The trailing edge of the cylinder "detent" is a bit eroded on each chamber- it looks as though the cylinder is turning before the cylinder stop can get out of the way, but I can't seem to observe this phenomenon when I cock the hammer. I know it's hard to diagnose a problem without seeing the piece, but I'd love some advice regarding this "problem". Is this just normal wear? Also, the trigger "sticks" a little bit when I release the tension after firing it. Did I buy a dud? Thanks in advance for your help. ------------------ semper ubi sub ubi

August 20, 1999, 02:17 PM	#2
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,829	When you test for timing, try it in both the single action mode and the double action mode. For either, the cylinder stop should disengage the cylinder notch prior to the hand engaging the ratchet (causing the cylinder to rotate). Prior to the cylinder reaching full rotation, the cylinder stop should pop up into the forward leading edge of the cylinder notch. This is to ensure that the cylinder stop is present in time to prevent overrotation. On a police service gun, we were taught that it was OK to have the cylinder stop pop up half way between cylinders. For police work, external wear on the cylinder was acceptable to ensure that the firearm functioned properly. What you don't want is for the cylinder stop to pop up immediately after it disengages the cylinder stop. Concerning poor trigger return, it could be as simple as the gun being very dirty internally and a dissassembly followed by a good scrubbing by a gunsmith is required. Alternatively, the rebound slide spring has a burr and needs polishing. Or the part of the rebound slide which houses the rebound slide spring needs polishing. I've also seen it caused by a severely bent rebound spring. It could also be the hand/pawl getting stuck in the window or dragging on the window. It could also be that the trigger is binding against something or the cylinder stop and trigger hook aren't working properly together. Everything is fixable, you need only find yourself a good gunsmith. Shucks, isn't it under warranty from the seller? ------------------ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt