Deactivating primers - Page 2

mrdaputer · August 8, 2017, 06:54 AM

Put on safety glasses and smack them with a hammer like you did with the caps as a kid.

briandg · August 8, 2017, 08:28 AM

Might as well. Any cuts will heal quickly.

Metal god · August 8, 2017, 05:57 PM

I heard soaking them in WD-40 is the thing to do so that's what I do . Now I'm not so sure . I do have at least 20 primers soaking in WD-40 right now , some of them for months if not a year . I've been a little under the weather the last couple days but I'll see if they will fire when I get a chance .

JeepHammer · August 9, 2017, 09:31 AM

A 'Large/Long' Universal decapping die will allow you to remove the primer with relative safety.
Since no seal is made between case & die,
In the unlikely event the primer detonated, it would be a bang/flash directed down at the shell holder by the die.

The primers can then be destroyed by burning or crushing.

The ONLY primer detonations I've ever had in a universal decapping die were China manufacture, and other than creating a wet spot in my underwear, did no damage what so ever to the equipment.

I do use a metal paint can (quart) for discarded live primers to fall into.
Can lid on, about 1-1/2" hole drilled in the lid for primer eject tube to enter the can.
Semi-Closed lid VENTS & REDIRECTS any possible ignition.
I DO NOT let potentially live primers build up in the can, I don't want a chain reaction...

Disposal can be as easy as burying the primers, solvents like MEK will eat the primer material up in short order... MEK will eat a metal can up, so change containers before soaking.

cdoc42 · August 10, 2017, 10:05 AM

Here's the result of an experiment. As I said, I have a number of .270 cases with loose primer pockets discovered upon seating the primers. Last night I poured a small amount of "The Oil that creeps" - Kroil -into 2 of these cases. I did the same thing with a WW case that had a normal primer seating. I put them on a piece of tablet paper. I just looked at them to find one of the loose pockets had Kroil that leaked completely out of the case.
The other 2 cases - one loose, one not, contained all of the Kroil. I poured all remaining Kroil out of the cases.

I popped them off in the rifle. The case that leaked all of the Kroil fired as usual. The other two were dead.

Apparently overnight was long enough for Kroil to "creep"in and deactivate the primers; it could not do so if it didn't stay in contact, at least overnight.

I'll try it again with 3 more - all loose. It's now 11 Am - I'll repeat the test at11 Am or so tomorrow.

hdwhit · August 10, 2017, 11:52 AM

Quote:

briandg wrote:
If anything would work, it might be acetone, paint stripper, some product that is actually antagonistic to plastic.

Denatured alcohol will be antagonistic to the plasticizer and the lead styphnate is actually soluble in it. Lead styphante is NOT soluble in acetone or mineral spirits.

hdwhit · August 10, 2017, 12:12 PM

Quote:

Marco B wrote:
My point of view is, the only way to kill a primer is to pop them, or to burn them.

...or soak them in something that the lead styphnate is actually soluble in; like denatured alcohol.

But, I want to thank you for reporting on your experiment. This is significant in regard to the OP's question. Something in the tumbling process and subsequent drying was sufficient to mitigate the shock of the striker thus preventing the primer from firing, but did not actually "deactivate" the primer compound and it was able to be set off with exposure to flame.

Marco B · August 10, 2017, 08:54 PM

This experiment was taken with CCI Large Magnum Rifle Primers.
Tumbled with Palmolive dish detergent and Lemishine.
I've some Federal Magnum Primers Large Pistol and Rifle left, which I don't use anyway.

If it would be helpful, I can do some more tests.

It will not hurt me, to prime some cases and add it to my cleaning process.

Sure Shot Mc Gee · August 10, 2017, 10:35 PM

Just cycle the brass thru your rifle and shoot'em off in a safe direction. Won't hurt the rifle 1iota. Doing so is a whole lot safer than discarding live primers in the house trash. Some community's have Laws in regards to disposing of explosive materials in the house trash.

Gunz4Me · January 14, 2018, 11:28 AM

Over the years I have collected a large number of assorted caliber cartridges. Several hundred of them are corroded and unusable. Some to the extent that they have holes in the side of the cases. I have soaked all of them in WD 40, pulled the bullets and destroyed the powder. I now have all these cases with live primers. They have been soaking (fully submerged) in WD 40 and I need to remove the primers to destroy them. These various cases range from 218 Bee through 458 with a lot of European calibers. Any suggestions on how to go about doing this? Also I've accumulated a few hundred rim fire that also are corroded. How should I handle these?

Thanks for any suggestions.

gwpercle · January 14, 2018, 02:51 PM

I've deprimed hundreds of live cases over the past . Using a standard depriming die in a press just slowly push the primer out. none ever went off...but do it slowly.
Wear ear and eye protection and don't lean over the die and keep fingers away from die top just in case one pops. I've even reused the primers. Not as dangerous as it sounds...primers need a sharp blow from the exterior to work (fire) , the decapping pin from inside presses on the anvil and the anvil legs press on the primer cup, spaced around the cup edge , not on the priming compound. A Lee Universal decapping die would be ideal but I have just used the standard decapping die that came in the set .
I didn't soak the primers in anything, just deprimed them . I reused the primers in plinking loads and they all worked just fine.
Gary

Gunz4Me · January 15, 2018, 01:07 PM

gwpercle thanks for the indo I'll give it a try. What the heck the worse that can happen is a little noise and excitement!

Any ideas on how to pull the bullets on rim fire loads? I really don't dare try an inertia puller as the pressure on the rim could (I think) cause them to go off and in an inertia puller than would be dangerous.

Thanks again.

Gunz4Me · January 15, 2018, 01:08 PM

oops should have been info not indo!

math teacher · January 15, 2018, 03:50 PM

Please do not dump live or deactivated primers in the trash and I would not burn them. Several years ago I stupidly torched off a primer in my vice. It is still imbedded in the sheetrock in my garage. Trash goes to a land fill where it is burned. Primers can put out an eye. Pop them off in a gun or reuse them with practice ammo.

briandg · January 15, 2018, 04:44 PM

A lot of testing has been done and nobody that I know of has ever found any product that will kill primers reliably. This compound is in plastic, it resists ordinary solvents.

Throwing them in the trash seems harmless, but a primer going off has a high likelihood of being in contact with paper or possibly volatile gases. I don't think that it is likely, however, that it will ignite whatever it fires into. I believe that it is really improbable.

Otoh, a case of matches accidentally tossed into a compactor set it on fire, I was there, I saw the fire, and could confirm the information.

I agree that they should be carefully, gently pressed out. Use precautions such as glasses, clean desk, no flammable things nearby. It would be great to do it outside. I did a big batch in my shop with my drill press once, didn't want the stink in my home.

dahermit · January 15, 2018, 05:09 PM

Quote:

Just cycle the brass thru your rifle and shoot'em off in a safe direction. Won't hurt the rifle 1iota.

That works for a rifle but do not do that with a revolver...the primer will back out tight against the recoil shield and tie the gun up.

Jim Watson · January 15, 2018, 05:13 PM

I put them in the trash a few at a time. I have not yet heard of a garbage volcano at the local landfill.

Probably better just to discard the primed cases instead of bulking loose Primers together.

Yosemite Steve · January 15, 2018, 05:42 PM

I remember getting into my dad's reloading stuff and taking some primers out on the sidewalk and hitting them with a hammer. Could be the very reason I have hearing loss. Good times

Seriously though, primer shrapnel stings. So did dad's belt!

gwpercle · January 15, 2018, 05:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gunz4Me

gwpercle thanks for the indo I'll give it a try. What the heck the worse that can happen is a little noise and excitement!

Any ideas on how to pull the bullets on rim fire loads? I really don't dare try an inertia puller as the pressure on the rim could (I think) cause them to go off and in an inertia puller than would be dangerous.

Thanks again.

Sorry ...no experience pulling rimfire bullets...not sure about a kinetic puller on rimfire.
I would grip the bullet with a pair of wire strippers , find a hole that is a near fit,
but what to hold the case with ???? I don't reload any rimfire rounds and have no shell holders ?
Just what are you pulling bullets from ? And why ?

Depriming live primers is easy....just go slow.
Gary

**Unclenick** · January 15, 2018, 06:26 PM

Cdoc42,

Gas cutting of steel takes pressures in the 10's of thousands of PSI, so the gas gutting damage from leaky primers is caused by pressure generated by a cartridge's powder charge. Even if primer gas were to leak around a loose primer pocket, the open flash hole will keep it from ever making very high pressure, much less, enough to do damage to the steel.

If you don't want to decap them delicately, just shoot them.

A cursory examination of primers shows they aren't all constructed identically. Federal has some pretty heavy sealant you don't see on others, for example. For this reason, I wouldn't automatically trust any one soaking and deactivating method to work on them all. It's better just to fire them and get on with life, IMHO.

cdoc42 · January 15, 2018, 07:21 PM

Thanks, Unclenick, sounds reasonable. I was looking for a method a bit more convenient as my reloading room is in the house on the same lower floor as our rec room, and discharging primers, altho not objectionable via my wife, might cause a fire as the only way I've done it is to fire them off with the rifle muzzle inside the trash can. Going outside is not a problem other than recently weather is 7 to 10 degrees, but neighbors might raise an eyebrow if they hear more than a few going off. Option 2 is to keep them all and fire them at the range when the weather is better but again I'd rather be testing my reloads there. Hence the reason for asking.

**Unclenick** · January 16, 2018, 09:30 AM

The other concern when firing primers indoors is that primer smoke has water-soluble lead salts in it, so you don't want to do that anywhere pets or small children or anyone else who puts their extremities in their mouths without washing them first might venture. What I have done in the past is use some fiberglass insulation leftover from insulating my garage ceiling. I have stuffed a cardboard box full of it, closed up the box and cut an oversize (like 2 inch) hole in it, stuck a rifle barrel into the hole and fired the primers. The fiberglass captures the lead-laden smoke. As a bonus, it muffles the sound.

ms6852 · January 16, 2018, 10:40 AM

I just fire the primers in the garage and than decap the brass.

Gunz4Me · January 16, 2018, 03:58 PM

First I want to thank all of you for your responses, I will opt for the universal decapper as mentioned by several of you. One of the reasons I can not pop off the primers in a firearm is that I have such a selection of assorted calibers I (as much as I wish I could) don't have firearms in many of the calibers.

The reason I asked about the way to do this, and rim fire cases also, is that I have a large number of heavily corroded rounds. Some even have holes thru the side wall of the cases. The integrity of the cases has more than likely been compromised and heaven only knows what would happen if I tried firing them from a firearm.

For many years I was known around the area where I live as being someone who collected a wide variety of cartridges. Many people who had them to get rid of would give me boxes or pails full of a variety of cartridges. Many folks who were cleaning out relatives houses, after they had passed on, simply had no idea what to do with these and I ended up with them. As I said some were corroded and I simply never had the time to do anything about them. Now that I have retired and I have some free time I have gone through my "collection" and separated out the ones that simply are not safe to fire and that need to be done away with.

Again going back to rim fire cases. I've had several hundred of them soaking in a pail of WD 40 for over three months. I believe that this will have allowed time for the WD 40 to seep into the cases and dampen the powder. I know that WD 40 will not "kill" powder but it does dampen it to the point that it is hard to set the powder afire. If I try and pull the bullets with a pair of pliers I "should be safe", the empty rim fire case could them be detonated by clamping the case and using a hammer to strike the rim. The problem is I'm not real happy with "should be safe" and I was hoping others with have better ideas. Again, the cases are so heavily corroded I do not want to try and fire them.

Sorry this is so long winded.

Joe-ker · January 16, 2018, 04:09 PM

As for rimfires-------- we always had fun as kids pulling the bullet out and setting the case down with a trail of powder out of it. Light the trail and when it burns to the primer--- POP! Case goes flying.

I'd just toss them in fire after you've removed bullet.

As many have stated--- universal decap die is the easiest way. I'm a tite wad- I reuse mine.

August 8, 2017, 08:28 AM	#27
briandg Senior Member Join Date: May 4, 2010 Posts: 5,468	Might as well. Any cuts will heal quickly. __________________ None.

August 8, 2017, 05:57 PM	#28
Metal god Senior Member Join Date: April 10, 2012 Location: San Diego CA Posts: 6,876	I heard soaking them in WD-40 is the thing to do so that's what I do . Now I'm not so sure . I do have at least 20 primers soaking in WD-40 right now , some of them for months if not a year . I've been a little under the weather the last couple days but I'll see if they will fire when I get a chance . __________________ If Jesus had a gun , he'd probably still be alive ! I almost always write my posts regardless of content in a jovial manor and intent . If that's not how you took it , please try again .

January 15, 2018, 04:44 PM	#40
briandg Senior Member Join Date: May 4, 2010 Posts: 5,468	A lot of testing has been done and nobody that I know of has ever found any product that will kill primers reliably. This compound is in plastic, it resists ordinary solvents. Throwing them in the trash seems harmless, but a primer going off has a high likelihood of being in contact with paper or possibly volatile gases. I don't think that it is likely, however, that it will ignite whatever it fires into. I believe that it is really improbable. Otoh, a case of matches accidentally tossed into a compactor set it on fire, I was there, I saw the fire, and could confirm the information. I agree that they should be carefully, gently pressed out. Use precautions such as glasses, clean desk, no flammable things nearby. It would be great to do it outside. I did a big batch in my shop with my drill press once, didn't want the stink in my home. __________________ None.

January 15, 2018, 06:26 PM	#45
Unclenick Staff Join Date: March 4, 2005 Location: Ohio Posts: 21,063	Cdoc42, Gas cutting of steel takes pressures in the 10's of thousands of PSI, so the gas gutting damage from leaky primers is caused by pressure generated by a cartridge's powder charge. Even if primer gas were to leak around a loose primer pocket, the open flash hole will keep it from ever making very high pressure, much less, enough to do damage to the steel. If you don't want to decap them delicately, just shoot them. A cursory examination of primers shows they aren't all constructed identically. Federal has some pretty heavy sealant you don't see on others, for example. For this reason, I wouldn't automatically trust any one soaking and deactivating method to work on them all. It's better just to fire them and get on with life, IMHO. __________________ Gunsite Orange Hat Family Member CMP Certified GSM Master Instructor NRA Certified Rifle Instructor NRA Benefactor Member and Golden Eagle

January 16, 2018, 09:30 AM	#47
Unclenick Staff Join Date: March 4, 2005 Location: Ohio Posts: 21,063	The other concern when firing primers indoors is that primer smoke has water-soluble lead salts in it, so you don't want to do that anywhere pets or small children or anyone else who puts their extremities in their mouths without washing them first might venture. What I have done in the past is use some fiberglass insulation leftover from insulating my garage ceiling. I have stuffed a cardboard box full of it, closed up the box and cut an oversize (like 2 inch) hole in it, stuck a rifle barrel into the hole and fired the primers. The fiberglass captures the lead-laden smoke. As a bonus, it muffles the sound. __________________ Gunsite Orange Hat Family Member CMP Certified GSM Master Instructor NRA Certified Rifle Instructor NRA Benefactor Member and Golden Eagle

August 8, 2017, 06:54 AM	#26
mrdaputer Senior Member Join Date: December 14, 2013 Posts: 493	Put on safety glasses and smack them with a hammer like you did with the caps as a kid.

August 9, 2017, 09:31 AM	#29
JeepHammer Junior member Join Date: February 27, 2015 Posts: 1,768	A 'Large/Long' Universal decapping die will allow you to remove the primer with relative safety. Since no seal is made between case & die, In the unlikely event the primer detonated, it would be a bang/flash directed down at the shell holder by the die. The primers can then be destroyed by burning or crushing. The ONLY primer detonations I've ever had in a universal decapping die were China manufacture, and other than creating a wet spot in my underwear, did no damage what so ever to the equipment. I do use a metal paint can (quart) for discarded live primers to fall into. Can lid on, about 1-1/2" hole drilled in the lid for primer eject tube to enter the can. Semi-Closed lid VENTS & REDIRECTS any possible ignition. I DO NOT let potentially live primers build up in the can, I don't want a chain reaction... Disposal can be as easy as burying the primers, solvents like MEK will eat the primer material up in short order... MEK will eat a metal can up, so change containers before soaking.

August 10, 2017, 10:05 AM	#30
cdoc42 Senior Member Join Date: March 13, 2005 Location: Pennsylvania Posts: 1,687	Here's the result of an experiment. As I said, I have a number of .270 cases with loose primer pockets discovered upon seating the primers. Last night I poured a small amount of "The Oil that creeps" - Kroil -into 2 of these cases. I did the same thing with a WW case that had a normal primer seating. I put them on a piece of tablet paper. I just looked at them to find one of the loose pockets had Kroil that leaked completely out of the case. The other 2 cases - one loose, one not, contained all of the Kroil. I poured all remaining Kroil out of the cases. I popped them off in the rifle. The case that leaked all of the Kroil fired as usual. The other two were dead. Apparently overnight was long enough for Kroil to "creep"in and deactivate the primers; it could not do so if it didn't stay in contact, at least overnight. I'll try it again with 3 more - all loose. It's now 11 Am - I'll repeat the test at11 Am or so tomorrow.

August 10, 2017, 08:54 PM	#33
Marco B Member Join Date: January 17, 2017 Location: Kentucky Posts: 23	This experiment was taken with CCI Large Magnum Rifle Primers. Tumbled with Palmolive dish detergent and Lemishine. I've some Federal Magnum Primers Large Pistol and Rifle left, which I don't use anyway. If it would be helpful, I can do some more tests. It will not hurt me, to prime some cases and add it to my cleaning process.

August 10, 2017, 10:35 PM	#34
Sure Shot Mc Gee Senior Member Join Date: January 2, 2012 Location: Minnesota Posts: 3,876	Just cycle the brass thru your rifle and shoot'em off in a safe direction. Won't hurt the rifle 1iota. Doing so is a whole lot safer than discarding live primers in the house trash. Some community's have Laws in regards to disposing of explosive materials in the house trash.

January 14, 2018, 11:28 AM	#35
Gunz4Me Junior Member Join Date: January 12, 2018 Posts: 4	Over the years I have collected a large number of assorted caliber cartridges. Several hundred of them are corroded and unusable. Some to the extent that they have holes in the side of the cases. I have soaked all of them in WD 40, pulled the bullets and destroyed the powder. I now have all these cases with live primers. They have been soaking (fully submerged) in WD 40 and I need to remove the primers to destroy them. These various cases range from 218 Bee through 458 with a lot of European calibers. Any suggestions on how to go about doing this? Also I've accumulated a few hundred rim fire that also are corroded. How should I handle these? Thanks for any suggestions.

January 14, 2018, 02:51 PM	#36
gwpercle Senior Member Join Date: November 30, 2012 Location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana Posts: 1,752	I've deprimed hundreds of live cases over the past . Using a standard depriming die in a press just slowly push the primer out. none ever went off...but do it slowly. Wear ear and eye protection and don't lean over the die and keep fingers away from die top just in case one pops. I've even reused the primers. Not as dangerous as it sounds...primers need a sharp blow from the exterior to work (fire) , the decapping pin from inside presses on the anvil and the anvil legs press on the primer cup, spaced around the cup edge , not on the priming compound. A Lee Universal decapping die would be ideal but I have just used the standard decapping die that came in the set . I didn't soak the primers in anything, just deprimed them . I reused the primers in plinking loads and they all worked just fine. Gary

January 15, 2018, 01:07 PM	#37
Gunz4Me Junior Member Join Date: January 12, 2018 Posts: 4	gwpercle thanks for the indo I'll give it a try. What the heck the worse that can happen is a little noise and excitement! Any ideas on how to pull the bullets on rim fire loads? I really don't dare try an inertia puller as the pressure on the rim could (I think) cause them to go off and in an inertia puller than would be dangerous. Thanks again.

January 15, 2018, 01:08 PM	#38
Gunz4Me Junior Member Join Date: January 12, 2018 Posts: 4	oops should have been info not indo!

January 15, 2018, 03:50 PM	#39
math teacher Senior Member Join Date: February 5, 2012 Location: Southwest WA Coast Posts: 559	Please do not dump live or deactivated primers in the trash and I would not burn them. Several years ago I stupidly torched off a primer in my vice. It is still imbedded in the sheetrock in my garage. Trash goes to a land fill where it is burned. Primers can put out an eye. Pop them off in a gun or reuse them with practice ammo.

January 15, 2018, 05:13 PM	#42
Jim Watson Senior Member Join Date: October 25, 2001 Location: Alabama Posts: 18,541	I put them in the trash a few at a time. I have not yet heard of a garbage volcano at the local landfill. Probably better just to discard the primed cases instead of bulking loose Primers together.

January 15, 2018, 05:42 PM	#43
Yosemite Steve Senior Member Join Date: December 27, 2017 Posts: 460	I remember getting into my dad's reloading stuff and taking some primers out on the sidewalk and hitting them with a hammer. Could be the very reason I have hearing loss. Good times Seriously though, primer shrapnel stings. So did dad's belt!

January 15, 2018, 07:21 PM	#46
cdoc42 Senior Member Join Date: March 13, 2005 Location: Pennsylvania Posts: 1,687	Thanks, Unclenick, sounds reasonable. I was looking for a method a bit more convenient as my reloading room is in the house on the same lower floor as our rec room, and discharging primers, altho not objectionable via my wife, might cause a fire as the only way I've done it is to fire them off with the rifle muzzle inside the trash can. Going outside is not a problem other than recently weather is 7 to 10 degrees, but neighbors might raise an eyebrow if they hear more than a few going off. Option 2 is to keep them all and fire them at the range when the weather is better but again I'd rather be testing my reloads there. Hence the reason for asking.

January 16, 2018, 10:40 AM	#48
ms6852 Senior Member Join Date: April 3, 2010 Location: Texas Posts: 1,394	I just fire the primers in the garage and than decap the brass. __________________ ONLY TWO DEFINING FORCES HAVE GIVEN UP THEIR LIVES FOR YOU. ONE IS JESUS CHRIST FOR YOUR SOUL AND THE OTHER IS THE AMERICAN SOLDIER FOR YOUR FREEDOM.

January 16, 2018, 03:58 PM	#49
Gunz4Me Junior Member Join Date: January 12, 2018 Posts: 4	First I want to thank all of you for your responses, I will opt for the universal decapper as mentioned by several of you. One of the reasons I can not pop off the primers in a firearm is that I have such a selection of assorted calibers I (as much as I wish I could) don't have firearms in many of the calibers. The reason I asked about the way to do this, and rim fire cases also, is that I have a large number of heavily corroded rounds. Some even have holes thru the side wall of the cases. The integrity of the cases has more than likely been compromised and heaven only knows what would happen if I tried firing them from a firearm. For many years I was known around the area where I live as being someone who collected a wide variety of cartridges. Many people who had them to get rid of would give me boxes or pails full of a variety of cartridges. Many folks who were cleaning out relatives houses, after they had passed on, simply had no idea what to do with these and I ended up with them. As I said some were corroded and I simply never had the time to do anything about them. Now that I have retired and I have some free time I have gone through my "collection" and separated out the ones that simply are not safe to fire and that need to be done away with. Again going back to rim fire cases. I've had several hundred of them soaking in a pail of WD 40 for over three months. I believe that this will have allowed time for the WD 40 to seep into the cases and dampen the powder. I know that WD 40 will not "kill" powder but it does dampen it to the point that it is hard to set the powder afire. If I try and pull the bullets with a pair of pliers I "should be safe", the empty rim fire case could them be detonated by clamping the case and using a hammer to strike the rim. The problem is I'm not real happy with "should be safe" and I was hoping others with have better ideas. Again, the cases are so heavily corroded I do not want to try and fire them. Sorry this is so long winded.

January 16, 2018, 04:09 PM	#50
Joe-ker Senior Member Join Date: September 6, 2016 Location: North Iowa Posts: 247	As for rimfires-------- we always had fun as kids pulling the bullet out and setting the case down with a trail of powder out of it. Light the trail and when it burns to the primer--- POP! Case goes flying. I'd just toss them in fire after you've removed bullet. As many have stated--- universal decap die is the easiest way. I'm a tite wad- I reuse mine. __________________ From my cold dead hands.....