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Old January 7, 2008, 05:31 PM   #1
AKGunner
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.500 magnum-How much crimp?

I loaded up some 425 gr bullets with 20 gr of blue dot. Trouble is one of the bullets slipped forward upon recoil. The bullets have a crimping groove. The bullets are from t-rex thumpers out of Homer, Alaska.

I'm new to loading for the 500. How do I know how much crimp to in the groove? I'm used to going by the OAL. Is it as simple as keep crimping more and more and until the bullets no longer slip?

Thanks in advance.
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Old January 8, 2008, 01:41 PM   #2
AKGunner
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Hey, I'm responding to myself! Last evening I made up a batch of 20 more cartridges for the s&w 500. I didn't seat the bullet quite so far and it now fits better into the crimping groove. I also increased the crimp slightly. I think it is going to help hold the bullet in better under recoil. At least it looks better to me at the time. I'll be taking it to the range on Saturday to test them out.

Thanks Self!
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Old January 8, 2008, 02:25 PM   #3
rnr
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I've got a Smith .460 that I'm reloading for.

And if I remember right, I read somewhere that these big guys didn't need a crimp. And that a crimp might even increase pressures. I remember something about the bullets not moving w/o the crimp too.

Now, I don't remember where I read it cause I did a lot of searching around when I started loading for mine. And because it's been very cold around here lately, I haven't shot any of my loads. I didn't crimp them.

I could be way off the mark here, but it might be worth some more research.
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Old January 8, 2008, 05:04 PM   #4
Conservadude
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I'm pretty sure the 500 S&W does need a crimp. The 2007 Hodgdon Annual Manual on Reloading has a very good article on reloading the 480/454/460/500 rounds and covers this pretty well. Me? I'm on my way to pick up my new S&W 500 Mag w/4" barrel right now ...I'll be handloading for it for the first time within a week.

Either way, I recommend getting your hands on this article and reading it. It has several pointers that are unique to these big magnums ...like how you should lube every 5th case when resizing even if you are using carbide dies like you should be. Unlike other handgun ammo that doesn't need case lube when resizing with carbide dies, the longer case length on big magnums can generate a bit of heat and cause stuck shells if you don't... but not much, only a light lube on every 5th case or so. I'll be re-reading this article again, right before I dig into my new Starline brass and get going...

Good reading,

Brian
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Old January 8, 2008, 05:21 PM   #5
AKGunner
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I remember in a conversation with the bullet maker I asked about OAL. He said to just crimp the case at the crimping groove. "Oh, okay", I thought. "It makes sense to me." I can't think of why not to use the rather large crimping groove that is supplied on each bullet style that he sells for the 500.

I'm a newby with this type of reloading so I'm willing to learn more. I'll try to get ahold of the Hogdon Annual Manual and find the article on reloading the big bores. It sounds like good reading.

Thanks.
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Old January 8, 2008, 05:51 PM   #6
NavyLT
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You absolutely have to have a crimp - at least with the .460 S&W. This is especially true if you are using H110. Without an adequate crimp, H110 has major ignition problems. I have switched to Lil' Gun and have had much better satisfaction from it.

But the H110 - I loaded .460 S&W a bit light with not enough crimp and my wife ended up with some pretty bad powder burns on her hands from poorly ignited powder. A heavy crimp is really important on these boomers because of the powder ignition problems.
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Old January 8, 2008, 06:06 PM   #7
Archer66
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I've always loaded per firearm, but always with at least a slight crimp. Nothing like removing a cartridge and just pulling out the case with bullet in the hole and powder going everywhere.
A single shot with the least crimp, semi-autos with more. High recoil revolvers get about the same as single shot.
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