Screw drivers

sophijo · December 8, 2007, 09:21 AM

I've noticed that some socket sets have slothead screwdriver heads which look like "smithy" screwdrivers; same seems to be true wth some Multi headed screw drivers; with the tips stored in the handle. My question is; is the "shape of the head " what makes a "smithy" screwdriver. What do you think of using these drivers for smithing?

Thanks
Dave

Hawg · December 8, 2007, 09:39 AM

As long as the edge is flat, not tapered and actually fits the screw in question they'll work. Guns have several different size screws and most "sets" don't have bits that perfectly fit all the screws.

Dfariswheel · December 8, 2007, 07:14 PM

What makes a "Gunsmith" screwdriver is that it's NOT tapered in any direction like ordinary drivers.

Standard drivers are wedge shaped when viewed from front or side.
When these drivers are used on gun screws, the flat wedge shape tends to climb UP out of the slot, scarring the screw, and since it is a wedge shape, it only grips the screw by the upper edges of the slot.
This causes the edges of the slot to burr out.

From the front, the driver is also a tapered wedge shape.
When the driver is inserted in a deeper screw hole, the upper area of the drive scars up the outer edges of the hole.

A true gunsmith's driver has a hollow ground face. Due to the hollow grind, the lower part of the bit is parallel.
This bit grips the sides of the slot, not the top edge and applies all the torque to the stronger sides of the screw slot.
Since the driver is parallel, it doesn't cam up out of the slot.

The front of the driver is also parallel, so no matter how deep the hole is, the driver won't contact the edges of the hole and scar it up.

Martyn4802 · December 9, 2007, 06:11 AM

The guys above have nailed it, right on.
I have two different sets of screwdrivers, the Brownell's and the Wheeler sets. I have two sets to have a better possibility of finding the correct bit for a given screw. If a bit isn't available from either set, I have a bunch of cheap wedge shaped screwdrivers, and I select one that is close, then grind it to fit, with the hollow grind mentioned above. I won't take a chance of screwing up a screw head otherwise.

Martyn

sophijo · December 9, 2007, 08:58 AM

Thanks for the info. I'll get the dedicated set(s)!

Harry Bonar · December 9, 2007, 06:08 PM

Sir:
Right on - I also, if the edges are sharp take them on a 3M wheel and just remove the sharp side edge so you don't scar the recess.
Alot of these jobs are Chinese made and the Chinese tend to get everything of high carbon steel to hard. At times I've brightened one side and drawn them to a "blue" color - they don't snap then. U.S. stuff is usually just right.
Regular screw drivers can be done this way - grind the sides and paralel sides but don't let the wheel get the bit "blue" - that will temper them a little soft! It depends on the steel.
Harry B.

Dfariswheel · December 9, 2007, 07:44 PM

Actually, I WANT my drivers to be as hard as possible.

If something is going to snap, you would much rather it be a cheap screwdriver bit than an expensive, and possibly impossible to get gun screw.
On a number of occasions, I have had a bit break instead of a screw and was glad of it.

If you buy the Brownell's Magna-Tip screwdriver bits, Brownell's will replace broken bits FREE.
You don't even have to return it, just email them with the driver number, and they'll send you a new one FREE.

December 8, 2007, 09:21 AM	#1
sophijo Senior Member Join Date: June 28, 2004 Posts: 666	Screw drivers I've noticed that some socket sets have slothead screwdriver heads which look like "smithy" screwdrivers; same seems to be true wth some Multi headed screw drivers; with the tips stored in the handle. My question is; is the "shape of the head " what makes a "smithy" screwdriver. What do you think of using these drivers for smithing? Thanks Dave

December 9, 2007, 06:11 AM	#4
Martyn4802 Senior Member Join Date: June 12, 2007 Location: Grayling, Michigan Posts: 737	The guys above have nailed it, right on. I have two different sets of screwdrivers, the Brownell's and the Wheeler sets. I have two sets to have a better possibility of finding the correct bit for a given screw. If a bit isn't available from either set, I have a bunch of cheap wedge shaped screwdrivers, and I select one that is close, then grind it to fit, with the hollow grind mentioned above. I won't take a chance of screwing up a screw head otherwise. Martyn __________________ US Army Retired NRA Benefactor Life Member JPFO

December 9, 2007, 08:58 AM	#5
sophijo Senior Member Join Date: June 28, 2004 Posts: 666	bite the bullet! Thanks for the info. I'll get the dedicated set(s)!

December 9, 2007, 06:08 PM	#6
Harry Bonar Senior Member Join Date: December 5, 2004 Location: In the Vincent, Ohio general area. Posts: 1,804	drivers Sir: Right on - I also, if the edges are sharp take them on a 3M wheel and just remove the sharp side edge so you don't scar the recess. Alot of these jobs are Chinese made and the Chinese tend to get everything of high carbon steel to hard. At times I've brightened one side and drawn them to a "blue" color - they don't snap then. U.S. stuff is usually just right. Regular screw drivers can be done this way - grind the sides and paralel sides but don't let the wheel get the bit "blue" - that will temper them a little soft! It depends on the steel. Harry B.

December 8, 2007, 09:39 AM	#2
Hawg Senior Member Join Date: September 8, 2007 Location: Mississippi Posts: 16,189	As long as the edge is flat, not tapered and actually fits the screw in question they'll work. Guns have several different size screws and most "sets" don't have bits that perfectly fit all the screws.

December 8, 2007, 07:14 PM	#3
Dfariswheel Senior Member Join Date: May 4, 2001 Posts: 7,478	What makes a "Gunsmith" screwdriver is that it's NOT tapered in any direction like ordinary drivers. Standard drivers are wedge shaped when viewed from front or side. When these drivers are used on gun screws, the flat wedge shape tends to climb UP out of the slot, scarring the screw, and since it is a wedge shape, it only grips the screw by the upper edges of the slot. This causes the edges of the slot to burr out. From the front, the driver is also a tapered wedge shape. When the driver is inserted in a deeper screw hole, the upper area of the drive scars up the outer edges of the hole. A true gunsmith's driver has a hollow ground face. Due to the hollow grind, the lower part of the bit is parallel. This bit grips the sides of the slot, not the top edge and applies all the torque to the stronger sides of the screw slot. Since the driver is parallel, it doesn't cam up out of the slot. The front of the driver is also parallel, so no matter how deep the hole is, the driver won't contact the edges of the hole and scar it up.

December 9, 2007, 07:44 PM	#7
Dfariswheel Senior Member Join Date: May 4, 2001 Posts: 7,478	Actually, I WANT my drivers to be as hard as possible. If something is going to snap, you would much rather it be a cheap screwdriver bit than an expensive, and possibly impossible to get gun screw. On a number of occasions, I have had a bit break instead of a screw and was glad of it. If you buy the Brownell's Magna-Tip screwdriver bits, Brownell's will replace broken bits FREE. You don't even have to return it, just email them with the driver number, and they'll send you a new one FREE.