Rubbing holster with a dowel

pdmoderator · July 22, 2002, 02:55 PM

Hi, all,

At the range last weekend, I heard someone suggest to rub a new holster with a dowel to help break it in. But I didn't think to ask how to do this. Can anyone help?

Thanx,
- pdmoderator

Dfariswheel · July 22, 2002, 03:20 PM

No, I don't think just rubbing the leather with a dowl woul really help.
To break in a holster really means to loosen up a too tight new holster. Leather is just skin that is "designed" to stretch. new holsters are too tight, loosen up with use, until they stretch too much, at which time they are used up.

To fit a new holster you have two choices, depending on how "too tight" it is.

Choice One is to spray the inside wit automotive store silicon spray. Insert the gun, and twist and turn the gun SLIGHTLY in the holster. This will stretch it enough that just normal use will loosen it properly.

Choice Two is to wet mold the holster to the gun.
DIRECTIONS TO WET MOLD HOLSTERS:

First.....wash your hands. Any thing that touches the leather will either stain it or leave marks in the softened leather. If you don't want dye stained hands, wear plastic gloves.

Fill a sink with cool water and a couple of drops of liquid soap as a wetting agent.
Hold the holster under water for around 20-30 seconds, until it's damp, but not soaking wet.
OR:
Some holsters have enough oils in them that the holster may not wet properly. In this case, spray it with alcohol until damp, but not soaking.

Lay it on a clean cloth or paper towel, not newspaper, this will leave ink on it. Allow the leather to absorbe the moisture. This is known as "casing" the leather.

The leather is ready for molding when the leather feels dry but cool to the touch. Tan or brown leather will have returned to it's original color. If when you press on the leather, moisture appears on the surface it's too wet, allow it to case longer.
If you try to mold when the leather is too wet, it will not hold the molding properly, and the leather will stretch too much. If it's too dry, spray a thin coat of water on it and allow to stand for a few minutes.

Coat the gun with a thin coat of some rustproof lube and insert it straight into the holster without twisting. DON'T put the gun in plastic bags or wrap, this will leave the holster slightly oversized.

With clean hands, gently massage the leather around the prominent features like the cylinder, trigger guard, slide, and frame, pressing the leather into the hollows of the gun.

If you want the "detail" look where the leather is so closely molded you can see cylinder flutes or slide stops, use rounded hard plastic or metal tools to press the leather around the features as though you were outlining them with a pencil. My favorite tool is a 1/2" ball bearing attached to a handle. This "detail" molding usually isn't necessary, or even disireable on most holsters, but works well on open, no safety strap concealment rigs where a very tight fit is necessary.

After molding the leather, gently remove the gun, without twisting. The gun will be bone dry, but will need another coat of lube.
DO NOT leave the gun in the holster. The gun will rust, and the holster will stretch too much, ruining it.

Allow the leather to dry overnight. Keep it away from sunlight and heat. After it's completely dry, apply your favorite leather dressing. For a finish coat, I recommend Fiebing's Resolene. This is an water-based finish coat that won't crack, peel, or flake off. It's nominally waterproof, and seals dyed holsters.

When moldiing, be careful not to stretch safey straps or thumb breaks until they won't hold the gun properly.

Don't put too much leather dressing or oils into the leather, and NEVER use gun oil. If you want real leather oil, get a small can of 100% Neatsfoot oil, NOT neatsfoot Compound, which is fish oil with just enough neatsfoot oil to allow the use of the name.

You cannot completely waterproof leather, but I've had good luck on heavy duty field gear with THIN coats of Thompson's Waterseal. Although sold for wood decks, this works well for canvas and stiff leather. Thats it!!!!!

Walosi · July 22, 2002, 06:04 PM

Tightly molded holsters are "hand boned" by rubbing the leather, while wet, around the gun (or a form). Additional boning will stretch the leather more, but it is better to use the silicone method described above, and let the holster "set" to the gun it will carry. Then, with the silicone as a mild lube, a number of draws should break it in properly. Any additional boning, with a dowell or other tool, can stretch the hide and even break down fibers in the hide, if not done by an experienced leather hand.

July 22, 2002, 02:55 PM	#1
pdmoderator Registration in progress Join Date: November 6, 2001 Location: New Jersey Posts: 1,202	Rubbing holster with a dowel Hi, all, At the range last weekend, I heard someone suggest to rub a new holster with a dowel to help break it in. But I didn't think to ask how to do this. Can anyone help? Thanx, - pdmoderator __________________ Give up no state. Give up no ground.

July 22, 2002, 03:20 PM	#2
Dfariswheel Senior Member Join Date: May 4, 2001 Posts: 7,478	No, I don't think just rubbing the leather with a dowl woul really help. To break in a holster really means to loosen up a too tight new holster. Leather is just skin that is "designed" to stretch. new holsters are too tight, loosen up with use, until they stretch too much, at which time they are used up. To fit a new holster you have two choices, depending on how "too tight" it is. Choice One is to spray the inside wit automotive store silicon spray. Insert the gun, and twist and turn the gun SLIGHTLY in the holster. This will stretch it enough that just normal use will loosen it properly. Choice Two is to wet mold the holster to the gun. DIRECTIONS TO WET MOLD HOLSTERS: First.....wash your hands. Any thing that touches the leather will either stain it or leave marks in the softened leather. If you don't want dye stained hands, wear plastic gloves. Fill a sink with cool water and a couple of drops of liquid soap as a wetting agent. Hold the holster under water for around 20-30 seconds, until it's damp, but not soaking wet. OR: Some holsters have enough oils in them that the holster may not wet properly. In this case, spray it with alcohol until damp, but not soaking. Lay it on a clean cloth or paper towel, not newspaper, this will leave ink on it. Allow the leather to absorbe the moisture. This is known as "casing" the leather. The leather is ready for molding when the leather feels dry but cool to the touch. Tan or brown leather will have returned to it's original color. If when you press on the leather, moisture appears on the surface it's too wet, allow it to case longer. If you try to mold when the leather is too wet, it will not hold the molding properly, and the leather will stretch too much. If it's too dry, spray a thin coat of water on it and allow to stand for a few minutes. Coat the gun with a thin coat of some rustproof lube and insert it straight into the holster without twisting. DON'T put the gun in plastic bags or wrap, this will leave the holster slightly oversized. With clean hands, gently massage the leather around the prominent features like the cylinder, trigger guard, slide, and frame, pressing the leather into the hollows of the gun. If you want the "detail" look where the leather is so closely molded you can see cylinder flutes or slide stops, use rounded hard plastic or metal tools to press the leather around the features as though you were outlining them with a pencil. My favorite tool is a 1/2" ball bearing attached to a handle. This "detail" molding usually isn't necessary, or even disireable on most holsters, but works well on open, no safety strap concealment rigs where a very tight fit is necessary. After molding the leather, gently remove the gun, without twisting. The gun will be bone dry, but will need another coat of lube. DO NOT leave the gun in the holster. The gun will rust, and the holster will stretch too much, ruining it. Allow the leather to dry overnight. Keep it away from sunlight and heat. After it's completely dry, apply your favorite leather dressing. For a finish coat, I recommend Fiebing's Resolene. This is an water-based finish coat that won't crack, peel, or flake off. It's nominally waterproof, and seals dyed holsters. When moldiing, be careful not to stretch safey straps or thumb breaks until they won't hold the gun properly. Don't put too much leather dressing or oils into the leather, and NEVER use gun oil. If you want real leather oil, get a small can of 100% Neatsfoot oil, NOT neatsfoot Compound, which is fish oil with just enough neatsfoot oil to allow the use of the name. You cannot completely waterproof leather, but I've had good luck on heavy duty field gear with THIN coats of Thompson's Waterseal. Although sold for wood decks, this works well for canvas and stiff leather. Thats it!!!!!

July 22, 2002, 06:04 PM	#3
Walosi Senior Member Join Date: June 1, 2001 Location: Auburn, KY Posts: 298	Tightly molded holsters are "hand boned" by rubbing the leather, while wet, around the gun (or a form). Additional boning will stretch the leather more, but it is better to use the silicone method described above, and let the holster "set" to the gun it will carry. Then, with the silicone as a mild lube, a number of draws should break it in properly. Any additional boning, with a dowell or other tool, can stretch the hide and even break down fibers in the hide, if not done by an experienced leather hand.