Stoger .410 SXS Coach Gun

[PolarFBear]

OKAY, I am a dummy. Bad start to a new year. Bought a nice little Stoger .410 Coach Gun (used), figured it would be a good starter for my Grandson. Took it down for a cleaning and inspection. It was pretty good overall just a few patches down the bores to get it clean. Oiled the moving parts. NOW, I can't get the fore arm back on. I felt it best to inquire of experts before I broke something. I have not had problems with my 12 gage SXS's. I researched the list of Owners Manuals and find no listing for a Stoger shot gun of any type. I think the stock and bore must have to be held at a certain angle to mate? I have no problem getting the barrels back on but the fore arm stumps me.
Any other comments on these Stogers will be appreciated.

A non-gun related insert. I shave with a mug and brush. My Daughter got me a new kit of shave soaps for Christmas. It has the overtones of Hoppe's #9. Makes my whole day go great!

[PolarFBear]

Google is grand. Found the Stoeger web site. It may be that the gun is just to new and a "little" force is required. But with my ham fists I am prone to "over" force. Still would appreciate any inputs.

[Kvon2]

I'm 99% sure I know what the problem is here. Did you pull the trigger while it was disassembled? I did that when I bought my stoeger Uplander and its really annoying.

What you have to do is while it is disassembled manually cock both hammers. You likely will not be able to do this by hand. I carefully laid them on a work bench and pushed down on the receiver. It requires a good bit of force but should work.

If you have any other issues send me a direct message!

[turkeestalker]

On my 12 ga. Stoeger Coach, it's easier to reattach the forearm if the shotgun is cocked. Sounds kind of silly but it's true. If you remove the forearm without detaching the barrel after having cocked it, it tends to slip right back on. If you detach the barrel assembly, not so smooth.

These two small levers in this photo are the culprits.



In this photo they are in the uncocked position, in this next they are in the cocked position.



You can see how in the uncocked position the levers could offer some resistance.

With the shotgun uncocked, you have to line up the forearm with the forward edge away from the barrel assembly three or four inches, then simply apply firm pressure downward toward the receiver and it will cause the levers to slip into place and the forearm to slip down to the receiver as it should.

It's really not so hard, but the first time it is a little confusing because it seems that something is not lining up.
The levers are spring loaded, (hammer springs), and will slip into the ramped area of the forearm where they belong with firm pressure, pulling the forearm into position against the barrels.

I doubt that your .410 is any different than my 12 ga. and I hope this helps you out.

[PolarFBear]

Gents, thank you. Yes, I had pulled the triggers while it was disassembled. Doesn't a single word about that in the manual. Been to long a day to tackle it tonight. I'll hit it at "first light". I'm mostly a hand gun person. I got the piece at $320; am I in the ball park? Thanks.

[Kvon2]

Assuming it's in good shape I would say that's a good deal. I think new they're about $500 or so.

[FITASC]

I have several SxS's that I take down when the hammers are down so I can clean the gun. I then simply reassemble in reverse order. I'm not a Stoeger expert, but I can't imagine they are using a system any different from the two main systems in use for a century. IIRC, the Stoeger has the forearm latch, put the barrels on, pull the lever down as you put the forearm back on; see if that works.

[PolarFBear]

FITASC. Yes, the Stoeger is a wee bit different. The previous posters hit the nail correctly. My goof was pulling the triggers while having the barrels of the stock. Seems like the owners' manual would denote that "little" trick. But I noticed several typos and grammatical errors, not uncommon in translations. The gun is fine shape except for a minute mark on the left barrel and a one inch hairline crack (no wood separation) on the stock.

[Kvon2]

The good news is you probably won't make the same mistake again!

[FITASC]

Interesting in that many SxS guns say to use a block - as in wood or horn - to drop the firing pins when the barrels are off the receiver, so I am confused.

[turkeestalker]

I don't own another SxS and never have, so I can't honestly say. I only know that the first time that I tried to reassemble mine in the uncocked position, it seemed that something wasn't lining up quite right and I was afraid of breaking something. The forearm sits quite a bit higher when it contacts an uncocked lever vs. a cocked one like in the photos. No where near down against the receiver like it needs to be.
Those levers will rise upward freely toward the barrels if tipped back, so you have to make sure that they are oriented like in the first photo I posted if it's uncocked, by holding the receiver tipped slightly forward or it will never go together.
The cuts in the metal back of the forearm that mates to the receiver are ramped quite a bit, so uncocked you have to use some downward force to get the cocking levers started against the spring tension. Once started it all snaps right into place though.

[PolarFBear]

Cocked the firing pins, gun went back together easy as pie. All fixed and ready for the 7 year old (with grandpa's CLOSE supervision).

[Kvon2]

Victory!