Need help deciding a press

[Bart B.]

The following's an example of what happens when I misunderstand what someone says about stuff:

From Snuffy:

As Bart B said, dies that are set and locked when you first use them don't need to be re-set when simply screwing them back in a single stage press. That misconception, (myth), gets repeated so much, it has become an accepted fact.

Snuffy thinks my RCBS presses comprising two Rockchuckers, one Junior and one Partner press abilities to not require die adustment when putting one back in's a myth. Pretty bold comment considering he was never around me and my stuff when I did that. Especially when all my many .308 Win. and .30-.338 barrel's chambers were within a .001" spread across their headspace or head-to-shoulder measurement. And the same .300 Win. Mag. die was the only one used for the rifle it was matched to.

I'm the one whose removed full length sizing and bullet seating dies and put them back in with the same shell holder needed for each die and press. The same RCBS competition seating die was used with all rifle cases with shell holders of different heights to compensate for over all cartridge lengths.

That's the way my stuff worked. I knew what I was doing. You, Snuffy, made a bad assumption. 'Twas no myth in my domain. 'Twas reality. I'm not holding this against you but only wanted you to know it was not a myth in my experience.

There's many others that have the same experinece.

If someone can explain why this should not (cannot?) happen considering my stuff, please explain. There's always a chance I don't know what I'm both doing nor talking about. This excludes using the same die for several different chamber dimensions that require it be reset to match them.

Thanks, Snuffy for your comments later. Sorry 'bout all that. Glad to hear your agree with me. Have a nice forever.

[lee n. field]

Was hoping to get started with no more than $400, if possible.

Classic Turret kit will set you back a bit over $200. There are some other bits and pieces you'll want. And, of course, die sets for whatever it is you'll be loading, $30-ish for Lee. (You'll be wanting Lee die sets, because of the way the powder measure integrates with the expanding die on the press.)

[snuffy]

From Snuffy:
Quote:
As Bart B said, dies that are set and locked when you first use them don't need to be re-set when simply screwing them back in a single stage press. That misconception, (myth), gets repeated so much, it has become an accepted fact.

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Bart I was agreeing with you. My lack of english grammar must be confusing you. You can INDEED remove and re-install dies in the same press for the same rifle and the same shell holder WITHOUT re-adjusting them.

The myth says you have to re-adjust every time you screw them into your press. That's part of the basis for using those confounded bushings. For people not smart enough to know how to set and lock a die and lock ring, then remove the die.

There's a bunch of different ways lock rings work. and designs of them. The old standard was/is the set screw that bears straight against the threads of the die. Some put a shot pellet under them to protect the threads. They can be made from steel, brass, and the worst, aluminum. The alum. would actually bulge if the screw was cranked in too tight. it would expand down to cock the die sideways, and make taking it out hard. So the operator loosened the set screw, loosing the setting. One source for the myth.

A lot of people hate the lee design with the "O" ring. Hey, they work IF you learn how they work. Set the lee die to where you want it. While holding the die so it can't turn, tighten the lock ring. This compresses the "O" ring to lock the die and ring. Now when removing the die, make sure the ring and die both turn together until the "O" ring lets loose of the top of the press. Upon re-installing the die, again turn both the die and ring together until the "O" ring is snug against the top of the press/turret.

The best design,,IMHO is the Hornady split ring with it's cross bolt screw that bears at 90 degrees to the threads. It has flats on the sides so you loosen the ring, not turn the die,(which may result in the die turning inside the ring). The secret is to make the die and ring BOTH turn at the same time. A witness mark on the die and ring will make sure that does not happen.

[44smith]

I couldn't understand why you would have to reset the dies everytime you took them out of the press and put them back in if the lock ring was locked on to the die. If you unscrewed the die without loosening the lock ring it should stay set when you screwed it back in as long as you didn't tighten it to hard and turn the lock ring on the die.

[44smith]

Save your money and buy a Dillon 550B...you'll never have to upgrade it. They are worth every penny you spend on them...and the customer service is the very best of any in the industry. Lee makes good dies, small tools for reloading like case trimmers, primer seating etc...but I'd buy the Dillon if I were you. Rod

Rod, The Dillon 550B looks like a really nice press, but if I had to wait until I could save up the money for one I might as well forget about reloading. Even if I had the money I doubt I would spend that kind of money on a press when ones a lot cheaper can do the job I need to do just fine. I won't be reloading enough bullets to be worth buying that expensive of equipment.
Thanks for the help.

[Bart B.]

Snuffy, thanks for getting me straightened out on stuff. I've edited my earlier post. I think the bulk of misunderstanding was my interpretation.

[snuffy]

Bart, I can see why you took it that way. I transitioned thoughts in a continuous paragraph without separating them. I edited my post to clarify it. Sorry to the OP for sidetracking the thread.

[44smith]

Snuffy, You don't have to appoligize to me for sidetracking the thread. Your post, along with Bart's was very informative and helpful.
I'm just glad you got the confusion figured out in a good way.
Thanks.