Ruger AR-556 problems

mukjp22m · May 19, 2015, 03:26 PM

I bought a new AR-556 because of the raving reviews. I saw many reviews where they pulled the rifle from the box, loaded it, and successfully ran hundreds of rounds through it.

Not me. I cleaned mine thoroughly first. Mind you, I've owned MANY semi-auto rifles (but never an AR-15) and haven't had issues. First 20-30 rounds ran fine, though I noticed the last shot hold open was not working. This was on the pmag that came with it, as well as another brand. In both cases, if I manually pull the handle back, the empty magazine will correctly cause it to hold open.

After 30 rounds or so, it began failing to feed. Ejection never failed, but it was denting the side of the round and jamming up bad when trying to load the next round. That was happening every 3-5 rounds, and soon it began missing the subsequent round entirely and almost every time. It would just eject and then load nothing at all.

A guy who worked at the range looked at it and thought maybe I put too much lube on the bolt (not the BCG, just the bolt itself). He cleaned it up and then it worked fine for the final ~30 rounds I shot. I don't really put a lot of oil on my guns and this has never been an issue. Are AR's that hard to keep happy? I doubt it. Plus, all those reviews where people didn't even clean the factory grease off of it.

Any experiences like this?

mukjp22m · May 19, 2015, 06:38 PM

After hours of research, the problem is obviously short stroking. It never locks back on empty, and it sometimes doesn't pick up the round or tries to pick it up halfway down the cartridge, causing a jam.

So why? Gas key is not loose and slides easily over gas tube. Is it possible Ruger installed too heavy a recoil spring?

USMC 77-81 · May 19, 2015, 06:46 PM

I doubt that Ruger installed to heavy of a recoil spring. Call Ruger and speak with a customer service representative, they may have you send the rifle for repair. Don't let that bother you, what you'll get back is a rifle which has been corrected and personally inspected.

marine6680 · May 19, 2015, 08:53 PM

Yeah its definitely short stroking...

Might be an issue with the piston, or the adjustable gas... or the gas block itself.

Double check the piston system, pay close attention to the manual, look up some videos online, and confirm parts are like they should be. Then try shooting it again...

If that does not help, call up Ruger for a return, and they will make sure they get it working right.

Taco-XL · May 20, 2015, 02:05 AM

I guess that myth about pistons being better than DI is debunked. Yes DI can short stroke, but ive never seen one do it right out of the box. Ruger has been known to have spotty issues with QC in some of their handguns (SR9 C). Too much oil? Na. Youd have to soak it in a barrel of oil to get that problem with that regularity. Idk much about piston ARs but it sure sounds like something wasnt up to snuff when it left the factory.

Tomac · May 20, 2015, 03:19 AM

What ammo are you using and what weight buffer does your rifle have?
Tomac

TMD · May 20, 2015, 03:38 AM

The OP said AR not SR. If so then it's a DI model not the piston driven one.

stagpanther · May 20, 2015, 06:16 AM

Stay calm and Goosefraba : ) I've had a few new AR's do this including one that I built and in my experience it's usually a question of figuring out why your not getting a good lock-up with the bolt and/or why there is a loss of pressure in the cycle. I usually start with the spent cases to look for clues. It can take time for a gunsmith to figure these out with the weapon in hand--so don't expect quick resolution over the net necessarily. : )

marine6680 · May 20, 2015, 06:20 AM

Ah... I keep forgetting they released a DI version. If it isn't the piston, then yeah...

The gas block can be misaligned, or somehow the gas tube is blocked. I would doubt it's the buffer, but going to a lighter one may hide the problem and get it working, but an AR should work pretty well with 223 ammo and a H2 buffer.

madmo44mag · May 20, 2015, 07:30 AM

Strange as this may sound but a poorly pinned gas block could cause this.
I have seen of a couple rifles where the roll pin for the gas block was slightly under sized. The block stayed tight at first but after a few rounds started shifting and chocking off just enough gas to cause problem just like the OP's
It does not take much to cause a cycling issue when the gas psi is off.
Good luck, I hate chasing gas issues.

**4V50 Gary** · May 20, 2015, 08:19 AM

It could also be hyper-function. The bolt group is moving too fast for the magazine. As the bolt travels rearward, it pushes the cartridge down slightly which in turn pushes the follower down, compressing the magazine spring. When the bolt clears the magazine, the spring pushes the follower up and with it, the cartridge.

If the bolt is moving too fast, then the spring pushing the follower isn't fast enough so the bolt crashes into the mid-section of the cartridge instead of stripping it off from the rear of the magazine.

Without having to examine it myself or to shoot it with various ammunition and magazines, it's hard to say.

Mobuck · May 20, 2015, 08:47 AM

Try a different magazine(or 2). Even P-mags can be defective. Loading up a full 30 round mag and blasting away is NEVER the appropriate way to begin with an AR.
Using a magazine known to be functional, do the bolt travel test. Load ONE round in the mag, chamber it, and fire. The bolt should lock back. Do this 5 times. If the bolt locks back every time, bolt travel(gas flow) is adequate.
With that knowledge, you can begin to determine your next step in resolving the problem(if it still exists).

mukjp22m · May 20, 2015, 11:03 AM

I have the gen 2 PMAG that came with it, and also a stainless steel 30 round blackhawk mag. Both behaved the same.

I did not load a mag and blast through it. In fact, I was testing all different kinds of ammo for accuracy and was only loading about 3 rounds at a time. The bolt never locked open on either magazine at any time, probably with 15-20 opportunities to do so. However, if I pull the charging handle manually on an empty mag, it does hold.

As I think about it, it seems that the jamming or empty chamber issues started to occur once I began loading more rounds into the (brand new) magazines. So, the rounds were being pushed up with more force. However, after the guy at the range cleaned the bolt, then it was working fine in either scenario, except that it continued to never hold open on last shot.

Tomorrow I'm taking it back to the range. If it has the problem again, I'm going to swap out the BCG with a friend's BCG that is known to work. That should help diagnose. Also, i'm going to call Ruger now to see if they know of any issues.

One more thing, I noticed that it is difficult to get the bolt back into the carrier when re-inserting it after cleaning. I have to slap it to get it in. Once in and reassembled, it moves without much effort, but not freely enough where gravity or a flick of the wrist can pull the bolt into the out position. Is this normal?

mukjp22m · May 20, 2015, 11:24 AM

Talked to Ruger. The rep seemed quite certain that having 2 of 3 gas rings lined up would cause the issue. I dismissed it when I saw the 3rd ring staggered when I disassembled the gun afterwards, assuming that the 3rd ring would then catch the gas.

How can that be the cause? Those rings move freely. I would think that would be a severe and rampant problem in the military if AR's were that touchy. Those rings surely would line up on occasion just out of pure statistics.

Dixie Gunsmithing · May 20, 2015, 01:39 PM

It could be a combination of the rings and something else. Another op, who posted awhile back, had a similar issue, and had to change the bolt. Something was leaky in it, but the bolt cured the problem.

It could still be the rings. Take a look at the link below, for some explanation.

The AR-15's Gas Rings:

http://www.all4shooters.com/en/home/...-15-gas-rings/

mukjp22m · May 20, 2015, 02:09 PM

Once again, in that article it says that the alignment of the rings is not important. 99% of sources say that. I'll give it one more try tomorrow, then it's going back to Ruger if it fails again.

Dixie Gunsmithing · May 20, 2015, 02:41 PM

Do the tests listed, for the rings. That will verify if they are tight enough in the cylinder. You can have a leak around the firing pin stem, if its out of tolerance, and from under the base of the bolt key, if it isn't seating itself. There could also be too loose of a fit in the cylinder of the bolt key, that the gas tube sticks into.

These very problems are why they're looking at a piston rod actuated bolt.

AR-15_Checkout by Will Matney, on Flickr

stagpanther · May 20, 2015, 05:16 PM

Your cases look OK?

Mobuck · May 21, 2015, 06:48 AM

If the bolt has never locked back on an empty mag, there's a problem somewhere. Is the bolt catch stuck or does it work fairly easily when moved manually? It always works when manually cycling the bolt with an empty mag in place?
There may be a "gas leak" but I'd lean toward an improperly drilled or sized gas port or misaligned gas block. I just don't see bolt problems unless it's a manufacturing defect. You should be able to feel the gas rings compress into the bore of the bolt carrier as the bolt is pushed into place. Those gaps in the gas rings are mostly closed when the bolt squeezes into the bolt carrier. There again, gas ring gap is less an issue than many make it to be and causes symptoms different than what has been related.
Sorry if I stepped on toes but that's quite often the comments I see. "I loaded a mag and blasted it at random to test my AR and ???? happened".

madmo44mag · May 21, 2015, 07:39 AM

Quote:

After 30 rounds or so, it began failing to feed. Ejection never failed, but it was denting the side of the round and jamming up bad when trying to load the next round. That was happening every 3-5 rounds, and soon it began missing the subsequent round entirely and almost every time. It would just eject and then load nothing at all.

Too me this just sounds like a erratic timing issue.
Gas block leaking, bolt key leaking, gas tube that was not seated well in the block and after a few rounds has been damaged and now leaking.

The the guy at the range pulled the BCG out and cleaned everything and for a few rounds it worked as designed.
Something is constantly changing in the gas system.

The OP has swapped mags and amount of ammo loaded in the mags and that had no effect.

Like I said, I hate gas system problem.

G.barnes · May 21, 2015, 09:55 AM

Is the gas block pinned or does it have set screws. If it has set screws make sure they are tight. If not put some loktite on them and tighten them up.

mukjp22m · May 21, 2015, 04:35 PM

I went to the range again today after another thorough cleaning and ensured that the rings were not aligned. First 30 rounds went okay, but it would never lock open on empty. Then, it started jamming, then it started not picking up the next round at all (shorter and shorter stroke). It was exactly the same as my first experience.

So, I took out my friend's BCG that he let me borrow and noticed a difference right away - it was covered in grease and oil. I put it in and everything was different. The gun felt like it could breathe suddenly. It locked open on empty and functioned flawlessly.

So, I went back to my BCG, but first put gobs of oil all over it. Well, maybe not gobs, but I put significant droplets all over the BCG and the points where the bolt goes into the carrier and smeared it all around. Sure enough, it functioned perfectly after that.

I've owned dozens of guns, but never an AR. I have always cleaned my guns well and left just a light glaze of oil on the moving parts, never actually putting drops of oil onto it. This has never caused a problem and every gun I owned worked perfectly. But maybe AR's just have tighter fits, particularly when new, and need additional grease or lube. I own two Mini 14's and neither will jam under any circumstances, probably because they have loose fitting parts.

Well, I'm going to buy some grease and start using that on the BCG. Thanks for the input though, I learned a ton about AR's.

Dixie Gunsmithing · May 22, 2015, 03:22 AM

That tells me that the bolts cylinder bore, or the firing pin stem was leaking a little, and the oil helped seal it, or there's some rough machining that is hampering the bolt from easily twisting open. However, it shouldn't need that amount of oil. I'd about bet, that if the bolt was changed out, with a new one, the gun would operate as it should.

When those were designed, especially with the chrome cylinder lining, they were supposed to be able to operate in harsh conditions, or without hardly any lubricant in the field. There may be a possibility, that the more you shoot it, the more it will loosen up, to where it will work with less lubricant. Especially, if its from rough machining. Dripping with oil, though, is too much.

stagpanther · May 22, 2015, 05:04 AM

+1 what dixie says--I was thinking along the same lines that new AR's often have minor issues preventing the cartridge going fully into battery. Even fresh anodizing can create a couple of thousandths extra that can make a difference or extra drag--as can sharp-edged ramps and extensions

mukjp22m · May 22, 2015, 09:31 AM

Indeed, the bolt does not go in/out of the BCG easily, especially day one. It's getting easier though, after 200 rounds fired, and especially with some grease in it now. Maybe it just needs to break in a bit. After all, it's only a $600 gun, so how perfectly machined can everything possibly be?

May 19, 2015, 03:26 PM	#1
mukjp22m Member Join Date: October 3, 2013 Posts: 44	Ruger AR-556 problems I bought a new AR-556 because of the raving reviews. I saw many reviews where they pulled the rifle from the box, loaded it, and successfully ran hundreds of rounds through it. Not me. I cleaned mine thoroughly first. Mind you, I've owned MANY semi-auto rifles (but never an AR-15) and haven't had issues. First 20-30 rounds ran fine, though I noticed the last shot hold open was not working. This was on the pmag that came with it, as well as another brand. In both cases, if I manually pull the handle back, the empty magazine will correctly cause it to hold open. After 30 rounds or so, it began failing to feed. Ejection never failed, but it was denting the side of the round and jamming up bad when trying to load the next round. That was happening every 3-5 rounds, and soon it began missing the subsequent round entirely and almost every time. It would just eject and then load nothing at all. A guy who worked at the range looked at it and thought maybe I put too much lube on the bolt (not the BCG, just the bolt itself). He cleaned it up and then it worked fine for the final ~30 rounds I shot. I don't really put a lot of oil on my guns and this has never been an issue. Are AR's that hard to keep happy? I doubt it. Plus, all those reviews where people didn't even clean the factory grease off of it. Any experiences like this?

May 19, 2015, 06:38 PM	#2
mukjp22m Member Join Date: October 3, 2013 Posts: 44	Short stroke After hours of research, the problem is obviously short stroking. It never locks back on empty, and it sometimes doesn't pick up the round or tries to pick it up halfway down the cartridge, causing a jam. So why? Gas key is not loose and slides easily over gas tube. Is it possible Ruger installed too heavy a recoil spring?

May 20, 2015, 03:19 AM	#6
Tomac Senior Member Join Date: December 15, 2001 Location: Caldwell, Idaho Posts: 511	What ammo are you using and what weight buffer does your rifle have? Tomac __________________ "His Universe, His rules." - Tomac

May 20, 2015, 06:16 AM	#8
stagpanther Senior Member Join Date: March 2, 2014 Posts: 11,786	Stay calm and Goosefraba : ) I've had a few new AR's do this including one that I built and in my experience it's usually a question of figuring out why your not getting a good lock-up with the bolt and/or why there is a loss of pressure in the cycle. I usually start with the spent cases to look for clues. It can take time for a gunsmith to figure these out with the weapon in hand--so don't expect quick resolution over the net necessarily. : ) __________________ "Everyone speaks gun."--Robert O'Neill *I am NOT an expert--I do not have any formal experience or certification in firearms use or testing; use any information I post at your own risk!*

May 20, 2015, 07:30 AM	#10
madmo44mag Senior Member Join Date: December 29, 2008 Location: Ft.Worth, Texas Posts: 1,522	Strange as this may sound but a poorly pinned gas block could cause this. I have seen of a couple rifles where the roll pin for the gas block was slightly under sized. The block stayed tight at first but after a few rounds started shifting and chocking off just enough gas to cause problem just like the OP's It does not take much to cause a cycling issue when the gas psi is off. Good luck, I hate chasing gas issues. __________________ Texas - Not just a state but an attitude! For monthly shooting events in DFW visit http://www.meetup.com/TexasGunOwner-DFW

May 19, 2015, 06:46 PM	#3
USMC 77-81 Senior Member Join Date: February 6, 2012 Location: Northern Idaho Posts: 254	I doubt that Ruger installed to heavy of a recoil spring. Call Ruger and speak with a customer service representative, they may have you send the rifle for repair. Don't let that bother you, what you'll get back is a rifle which has been corrected and personally inspected.

May 19, 2015, 08:53 PM	#4
marine6680 Senior Member Join Date: July 24, 2012 Location: Parker, CO Posts: 4,594	Yeah its definitely short stroking... Might be an issue with the piston, or the adjustable gas... or the gas block itself. Double check the piston system, pay close attention to the manual, look up some videos online, and confirm parts are like they should be. Then try shooting it again... If that does not help, call up Ruger for a return, and they will make sure they get it working right.

May 20, 2015, 02:05 AM	#5
Taco-XL Senior Member Join Date: January 6, 2015 Location: West Virginia Posts: 168	I guess that myth about pistons being better than DI is debunked. Yes DI can short stroke, but ive never seen one do it right out of the box. Ruger has been known to have spotty issues with QC in some of their handguns (SR9 C). Too much oil? Na. Youd have to soak it in a barrel of oil to get that problem with that regularity. Idk much about piston ARs but it sure sounds like something wasnt up to snuff when it left the factory.

May 20, 2015, 03:38 AM	#7
TMD Senior Member Join Date: August 9, 2011 Posts: 1,293	The OP said AR not SR. If so then it's a DI model not the piston driven one.

May 20, 2015, 06:20 AM	#9
marine6680 Senior Member Join Date: July 24, 2012 Location: Parker, CO Posts: 4,594	Ah... I keep forgetting they released a DI version. If it isn't the piston, then yeah... The gas block can be misaligned, or somehow the gas tube is blocked. I would doubt it's the buffer, but going to a lighter one may hide the problem and get it working, but an AR should work pretty well with 223 ammo and a H2 buffer.

May 20, 2015, 08:19 AM	#11
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,838	This is conjecture It could also be hyper-function. The bolt group is moving too fast for the magazine. As the bolt travels rearward, it pushes the cartridge down slightly which in turn pushes the follower down, compressing the magazine spring. When the bolt clears the magazine, the spring pushes the follower up and with it, the cartridge. If the bolt is moving too fast, then the spring pushing the follower isn't fast enough so the bolt crashes into the mid-section of the cartridge instead of stripping it off from the rear of the magazine. Without having to examine it myself or to shoot it with various ammunition and magazines, it's hard to say. __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*

May 20, 2015, 08:47 AM	#12
Mobuck Junior member Join Date: February 2, 2010 Posts: 6,846	Try a different magazine(or 2). Even P-mags can be defective. Loading up a full 30 round mag and blasting away is NEVER the appropriate way to begin with an AR. Using a magazine known to be functional, do the bolt travel test. Load ONE round in the mag, chamber it, and fire. The bolt should lock back. Do this 5 times. If the bolt locks back every time, bolt travel(gas flow) is adequate. With that knowledge, you can begin to determine your next step in resolving the problem(if it still exists).

May 20, 2015, 11:03 AM	#13
mukjp22m Member Join Date: October 3, 2013 Posts: 44	I have the gen 2 PMAG that came with it, and also a stainless steel 30 round blackhawk mag. Both behaved the same. I did not load a mag and blast through it. In fact, I was testing all different kinds of ammo for accuracy and was only loading about 3 rounds at a time. The bolt never locked open on either magazine at any time, probably with 15-20 opportunities to do so. However, if I pull the charging handle manually on an empty mag, it does hold. As I think about it, it seems that the jamming or empty chamber issues started to occur once I began loading more rounds into the (brand new) magazines. So, the rounds were being pushed up with more force. However, after the guy at the range cleaned the bolt, then it was working fine in either scenario, except that it continued to never hold open on last shot. Tomorrow I'm taking it back to the range. If it has the problem again, I'm going to swap out the BCG with a friend's BCG that is known to work. That should help diagnose. Also, i'm going to call Ruger now to see if they know of any issues. One more thing, I noticed that it is difficult to get the bolt back into the carrier when re-inserting it after cleaning. I have to slap it to get it in. Once in and reassembled, it moves without much effort, but not freely enough where gravity or a flick of the wrist can pull the bolt into the out position. Is this normal?

May 20, 2015, 11:24 AM	#14
mukjp22m Member Join Date: October 3, 2013 Posts: 44	Talked to Ruger. The rep seemed quite certain that having 2 of 3 gas rings lined up would cause the issue. I dismissed it when I saw the 3rd ring staggered when I disassembled the gun afterwards, assuming that the 3rd ring would then catch the gas. How can that be the cause? Those rings move freely. I would think that would be a severe and rampant problem in the military if AR's were that touchy. Those rings surely would line up on occasion just out of pure statistics.

May 20, 2015, 01:39 PM	#15
Dixie Gunsmithing Moderator Emeritus Join Date: April 27, 2013 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,923	It could be a combination of the rings and something else. Another op, who posted awhile back, had a similar issue, and had to change the bolt. Something was leaky in it, but the bolt cured the problem. It could still be the rings. Take a look at the link below, for some explanation. The AR-15's Gas Rings: http://www.all4shooters.com/en/home/...-15-gas-rings/

May 20, 2015, 02:09 PM	#16
mukjp22m Member Join Date: October 3, 2013 Posts: 44	Once again, in that article it says that the alignment of the rings is not important. 99% of sources say that. I'll give it one more try tomorrow, then it's going back to Ruger if it fails again.

May 20, 2015, 02:41 PM	#17
Dixie Gunsmithing Moderator Emeritus Join Date: April 27, 2013 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,923	Do the tests listed, for the rings. That will verify if they are tight enough in the cylinder. You can have a leak around the firing pin stem, if its out of tolerance, and from under the base of the bolt key, if it isn't seating itself. There could also be too loose of a fit in the cylinder of the bolt key, that the gas tube sticks into. These very problems are why they're looking at a piston rod actuated bolt. AR-15_Checkout by Will Matney, on Flickr Last edited by Dixie Gunsmithing; May 20, 2015 at 05:51 PM.

May 20, 2015, 05:16 PM	#18
stagpanther Senior Member Join Date: March 2, 2014 Posts: 11,786	Your cases look OK? __________________ "Everyone speaks gun."--Robert O'Neill *I am NOT an expert--I do not have any formal experience or certification in firearms use or testing; use any information I post at your own risk!*

May 21, 2015, 06:48 AM	#19
Mobuck Junior member Join Date: February 2, 2010 Posts: 6,846	If the bolt has never locked back on an empty mag, there's a problem somewhere. Is the bolt catch stuck or does it work fairly easily when moved manually? It always works when manually cycling the bolt with an empty mag in place? There may be a "gas leak" but I'd lean toward an improperly drilled or sized gas port or misaligned gas block. I just don't see bolt problems unless it's a manufacturing defect. You should be able to feel the gas rings compress into the bore of the bolt carrier as the bolt is pushed into place. Those gaps in the gas rings are mostly closed when the bolt squeezes into the bolt carrier. There again, gas ring gap is less an issue than many make it to be and causes symptoms different than what has been related. Sorry if I stepped on toes but that's quite often the comments I see. "I loaded a mag and blasted it at random to test my AR and ???? happened".

May 21, 2015, 09:55 AM	#21
G.barnes Senior Member Join Date: June 3, 2011 Posts: 182	Is the gas block pinned or does it have set screws. If it has set screws make sure they are tight. If not put some loktite on them and tighten them up.

May 21, 2015, 04:35 PM	#22
mukjp22m Member Join Date: October 3, 2013 Posts: 44	Solved I went to the range again today after another thorough cleaning and ensured that the rings were not aligned. First 30 rounds went okay, but it would never lock open on empty. Then, it started jamming, then it started not picking up the next round at all (shorter and shorter stroke). It was exactly the same as my first experience. So, I took out my friend's BCG that he let me borrow and noticed a difference right away - it was covered in grease and oil. I put it in and everything was different. The gun felt like it could breathe suddenly. It locked open on empty and functioned flawlessly. So, I went back to my BCG, but first put gobs of oil all over it. Well, maybe not gobs, but I put significant droplets all over the BCG and the points where the bolt goes into the carrier and smeared it all around. Sure enough, it functioned perfectly after that. I've owned dozens of guns, but never an AR. I have always cleaned my guns well and left just a light glaze of oil on the moving parts, never actually putting drops of oil onto it. This has never caused a problem and every gun I owned worked perfectly. But maybe AR's just have tighter fits, particularly when new, and need additional grease or lube. I own two Mini 14's and neither will jam under any circumstances, probably because they have loose fitting parts. Well, I'm going to buy some grease and start using that on the BCG. Thanks for the input though, I learned a ton about AR's.

May 22, 2015, 03:22 AM	#23
Dixie Gunsmithing Moderator Emeritus Join Date: April 27, 2013 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,923	That tells me that the bolts cylinder bore, or the firing pin stem was leaking a little, and the oil helped seal it, or there's some rough machining that is hampering the bolt from easily twisting open. However, it shouldn't need that amount of oil. I'd about bet, that if the bolt was changed out, with a new one, the gun would operate as it should. When those were designed, especially with the chrome cylinder lining, they were supposed to be able to operate in harsh conditions, or without hardly any lubricant in the field. There may be a possibility, that the more you shoot it, the more it will loosen up, to where it will work with less lubricant. Especially, if its from rough machining. Dripping with oil, though, is too much.

May 22, 2015, 05:04 AM	#24
stagpanther Senior Member Join Date: March 2, 2014 Posts: 11,786	+1 what dixie says--I was thinking along the same lines that new AR's often have minor issues preventing the cartridge going fully into battery. Even fresh anodizing can create a couple of thousandths extra that can make a difference or extra drag--as can sharp-edged ramps and extensions __________________ "Everyone speaks gun."--Robert O'Neill *I am NOT an expert--I do not have any formal experience or certification in firearms use or testing; use any information I post at your own risk!*

May 22, 2015, 09:31 AM	#25
mukjp22m Member Join Date: October 3, 2013 Posts: 44	Indeed, the bolt does not go in/out of the BCG easily, especially day one. It's getting easier though, after 200 rounds fired, and especially with some grease in it now. Maybe it just needs to break in a bit. After all, it's only a $600 gun, so how perfectly machined can everything possibly be?