Best Product To Remove Lead From Bore ?

ConRich · January 25, 2007, 08:31 PM

After shooting some cast bullets with my Colt 1911 my bore looks like s##t and I can't get the lead out. What would you recomend ? TIA

Rich

Dfariswheel · January 26, 2007, 12:05 AM

What virtually all older revolver and auto match shooters used: The Lewis Lead Remover.

There are other methods, some of which can damage the barrel. The Lewis has been around at least 50 years, and hasn't harmed a gun yet.

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sto...S+LEAD+REMOVER

Order extra brass screens.

This will safely pull the lead right out, and is the only good way to clean the forcing cone on revolvers.

Dave Haven · January 26, 2007, 12:07 AM

^ +1.

HankL · January 26, 2007, 07:41 AM

ditto

Nortonics · January 26, 2007, 11:45 AM

Trippo

Ausserordeutlich · January 26, 2007, 06:13 PM

Googolplexo!

ConRich · January 26, 2007, 07:36 PM

Thanks for all the replies to my question. Everyone seems to agree that the Lewis Lead Remover is the way to go. Could you explain how it is used and how it works? I did go to the link provided by Dfariswheel but the item is out of stock and no information about how it works was offered. Thanks for the help,

Rich

Dfariswheel · January 26, 2007, 07:52 PM

Here's how the Lewis works:

You insert the Tee handled rod down the bore.
For revolvers, you put a brass screen over the cone-shaped aluminum head and form the screen down over it.
The head is screwed tightly onto the rod.

The rod is pulled into the forcing cone and the rod is turned.
This cuts the lead and fouling off the forcing gone.

To clean the bore, a brass screen is formed over the brass and rubber tip.
The rod is put down the bore, and the tip is screwed tightly in place. If the tip is allowed to be loose, the brass screen will quickly tear.

The nut is BACKED OFF, and the tip is pulled through the bore and out the end.
When it comes out the muzzle it will be covered with strips of lead.
Flick the lead off with a finger nail or a knife blade.

Unscrew the tip, put the rod back down the bore, reattach the tip, and tighten the nut to compress the rubber plug SLIGHTLY, then pull through the bore and out.
Tighten the nut no tighter than you have to to expand the rubber plug JUST a little.

Repeat several times to remove all the lead, then brush the bore with a brush and solvent to finish cleaning it.

You can also clean revolver chambers with the Lewis tool, but a bronze chamber brush is faster.

Ruger4570 · January 27, 2007, 10:32 AM

Back in the 60's I used mercury to get lead out of the bore. It worked very well. I would plug the barrel at the cylender and pour mercury down the bore to the muzzle then place the gun in a stand I built. The mercury would simply amalgamate with the lead and remove it from the bore. Well, that was then, not now. Had most of us know the dangers of mercury we probably wouldn't have used it, regardless of how well it worked.
That said,, LEWIS is the way to go.

ConRich · January 27, 2007, 11:09 AM

Dfariswheel, Thank you for explaining the Lewis system to me.

Rich

Nortonics · January 27, 2007, 12:55 PM

Hoppe's makes the same general kit, just not as nice of quality ($6 compared to $25). Regardless, it does the same thing. For some reason they can be hard to locate though. Here's one source:

http://www.gtdist.com/ProductDetail....mber=HOP-LR135

P.S. - here's a site that also offers some instruction on the Lewis Lead Remover, along with a few decent pics:

http://www.lasc.us/RangingShot14-9.htm

Harry Bonar · January 27, 2007, 11:02 PM

Sir:
One other thing; make sure that the leade in the chamber is cut with the long taper for the bullet. Mine, with all bbls., from factory to Bar-Sto and Kart cuts that leade - without changing headspace. When using it you can fell it cut the taper into the rifling, and will then hit the end of factory chamber for the mouth of the case - this helps somewhat!
Harry B.

**4V50 Gary** · January 28, 2007, 01:15 AM

Want something cheaper than a Lewis Lead Remover? Buy some copper "Chore Boy" scouring pad from your supermarket. Get the soapless one. Cut a piece of the copper pad and wrap it around a worn bronze bristle brush. That'll cut the copper muy pronto. I stoped using the Lewis Lead Remover when I learned about Chore Boy (and no, I don't have any stock in it either).

moredes15 · February 1, 2007, 11:06 PM

I'm with Gary 100%. I used to use LLR religiously on my barrels. Then out of desperation, when it didn't work on a badly leaded barrel, I tried Chore Boy. I haven't bought those brass patch packs in 3 years. I've cleaned out a barrel that didn't have lands and grooves for the first 2" with Chore Boy, and it cleaned the barrel in 40 seconds. It's WAY cheaper, and 5x faster. A 3 year supply cost me a whole $1.79.

Try it once, you'll never go back.

buckster · February 6, 2007, 05:42 PM

Chore boy. Cut it the size you normally use.

waynedm · February 6, 2007, 06:08 PM

Just take a torch to it until it's red, that lead will pour right out.

JonJay · March 16, 2007, 02:39 PM

Gary, are you referring the copper "chore boy" that looks like a bunch of copper strands that are all coiled up? If so, I don't see how that can replace the LLR tool. On the other hand IF you're referring to a copper "chore boy" that is a "flat" piece of copper, then that would make sense, but I have been unable to find a product like that in my local grocery store. Also, I have not seen, or heard of, a copper chore boy that is impregnated with soap.

Reason I'm asking all the questions is that I too have a horrendous problem with leading in all of my revolvers and am growing weary of scrubbing, brushing, scrubbing, brushing, and then using the "Lead Away" patches, then starting the process all over again and still not getting all of the lead out.

If you could clarify more precisely what the chore boy looks like, then I could pick one up and get rid of the pesky lead in the bores of my guns.

Thanks.

Eghad · March 16, 2007, 03:10 PM

going to give those a try....thanks

fyi

Quote:

Get the soapless one. Cut a piece of the copper pad and wrap it around a worn bronze bristle brush.

Bill DeShivs · March 16, 2007, 04:28 PM

Johnjay
Yes, the coiled copper Choreboy pads.
Bill

ahankster · March 17, 2007, 11:33 PM

Ok,
This is half heartedly in jest, but serious as well.
First off, I use a Lewis lead remover. I shoot somewhere between 500 and 1000 rounds a month out of my cowboy (Ruger) revolvers and rifle (sometimes more). The Lewis lead remover is the only way to get the ring out of the forcing cone and first inch of barrel,,,other than what I am going to suggest.

After about 300 rounds, leading does become a problem. Some folks suggest shooting fullhouse 357 rounds to clean them up. I just don't agree with this method. I would rather just use the Lewis tool. But, I have found that a few, just a few, fullhouse black powder rounds will clean up any and all leading that might be plaguing the guns. Then, the BP fouling is much easier to clean than the lead. You might try that. Load up a few compressed BP rounds to clean out the lead and then soak the barrel and scrub it well to clean out the BP. At least you wouldn't have to invest in a LL?

Just an off the wall suggestion.
Hank

Dfariswheel · March 18, 2007, 06:50 PM

"Shooting the lead out" is an old urban legend about guns.

In fact what happens is, the bullet will "ride over" some of the lead and will actually "iron" it into the bore.
This tends to make the leading difficult to see, and may lead you to think the lead is gone, when it's still there.
Moisture works it's way UNDER the lead, and the first sign of trouble is when the lead starts to flake off, exposing rust and pitting.

The major danger of shooting jacketed bullets to clean the lead out is when there's JUST a little too much lead present, and the bullet can't push it out of the way fast enough.
When this happens, you get a bulge or a ring blown in the barrel.

People often wonder how a barrel got ringed or bulged, and how someone was careless enough to fire a gun with an obstructed bore.
In many cases they were "shooting the lead" out.

JonJay · March 20, 2007, 11:36 AM

I totally agree Dfaris. I've heard of that process before too, and have half-heartedly tried it in the past to remove lead and I've noticed that all it does is compress it more into the bore like you say.

Nope!....give me the LLR or a reasonable facsimile to "scrape" that stuff from the bore because as far as I'm concerned that's the ONLY way that you're going to get it out.

FM12 · March 28, 2007, 05:47 PM

Does the choreboy damage the barrel?

Bill DeShivs · March 28, 2007, 10:40 PM

No, it won't hurt the barrel.
Bill

Tim R · March 30, 2007, 04:01 PM

If your pistol is leading a lot may I suggest try belling the case just a bit more.....

I went from lots of lead fouling to almost nothing just by adding a bit more bell to the case mouth. Seems I was moving the sides of the bullet around when seating.

I had a hard time doing this as we try not to over work our brass. With Jacketed I still use as little bell as I can get away with.

January 25, 2007, 08:31 PM	#1
ConRich Senior Member Join Date: December 7, 2004 Location: Maine Posts: 299	Best Product To Remove Lead From Bore ? After shooting some cast bullets with my Colt 1911 my bore looks like s##t and I can't get the lead out. What would you recomend ? TIA Rich

January 26, 2007, 07:41 AM	#4
HankL Senior Member Join Date: March 11, 1999 Location: The Sunny South Posts: 2,174	ditto __________________ Check 6

January 26, 2007, 11:45 AM	#5
Nortonics Senior Member Join Date: December 2, 2004 Location: Murderapolis Posts: 521	Trippo __________________ Tom.

January 27, 2007, 12:55 PM	#11
Nortonics Senior Member Join Date: December 2, 2004 Location: Murderapolis Posts: 521	Hoppe's makes the same general kit, just not as nice of quality ($6 compared to $25). Regardless, it does the same thing. For some reason they can be hard to locate though. Here's one source: http://www.gtdist.com/ProductDetail....mber=HOP-LR135 P.S. - here's a site that also offers some instruction on the Lewis Lead Remover, along with a few decent pics: http://www.lasc.us/RangingShot14-9.htm __________________ Tom.

January 27, 2007, 11:02 PM	#12
Harry Bonar Senior Member Join Date: December 5, 2004 Location: In the Vincent, Ohio general area. Posts: 1,804	lead Sir: One other thing; make sure that the leade in the chamber is cut with the long taper for the bullet. Mine, with all bbls., from factory to Bar-Sto and Kart cuts that leade - without changing headspace. When using it you can fell it cut the taper into the rifling, and will then hit the end of factory chamber for the mouth of the case - this helps somewhat! Harry B.

January 26, 2007, 12:05 AM	#2
Dfariswheel Senior Member Join Date: May 4, 2001 Posts: 7,478	What virtually all older revolver and auto match shooters used: The Lewis Lead Remover. There are other methods, some of which can damage the barrel. The Lewis has been around at least 50 years, and hasn't harmed a gun yet. http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sto...S+LEAD+REMOVER Order extra brass screens. This will safely pull the lead right out, and is the only good way to clean the forcing cone on revolvers.

January 26, 2007, 12:07 AM	#3
Dave Haven Senior Member Join Date: February 1, 2000 Location: near Flagstaff, AZ Posts: 790	^ +1.

January 26, 2007, 06:13 PM	#6
Ausserordeutlich Junior member Join Date: May 27, 2006 Posts: 996	Googolplexo!

January 26, 2007, 07:36 PM	#7
ConRich Senior Member Join Date: December 7, 2004 Location: Maine Posts: 299	Thanks for all the replies to my question. Everyone seems to agree that the Lewis Lead Remover is the way to go. Could you explain how it is used and how it works? I did go to the link provided by Dfariswheel but the item is out of stock and no information about how it works was offered. Thanks for the help, Rich

January 26, 2007, 07:52 PM	#8
Dfariswheel Senior Member Join Date: May 4, 2001 Posts: 7,478	Here's how the Lewis works: You insert the Tee handled rod down the bore. For revolvers, you put a brass screen over the cone-shaped aluminum head and form the screen down over it. The head is screwed tightly onto the rod. The rod is pulled into the forcing cone and the rod is turned. This cuts the lead and fouling off the forcing gone. To clean the bore, a brass screen is formed over the brass and rubber tip. The rod is put down the bore, and the tip is screwed tightly in place. If the tip is allowed to be loose, the brass screen will quickly tear. The nut is BACKED OFF, and the tip is pulled through the bore and out the end. When it comes out the muzzle it will be covered with strips of lead. Flick the lead off with a finger nail or a knife blade. Unscrew the tip, put the rod back down the bore, reattach the tip, and tighten the nut to compress the rubber plug SLIGHTLY, then pull through the bore and out. Tighten the nut no tighter than you have to to expand the rubber plug JUST a little. Repeat several times to remove all the lead, then brush the bore with a brush and solvent to finish cleaning it. You can also clean revolver chambers with the Lewis tool, but a bronze chamber brush is faster.

January 27, 2007, 10:32 AM	#9
Ruger4570 Senior Member Join Date: April 3, 2005 Location: Rochester, New York Posts: 2,136	Back in the 60's I used mercury to get lead out of the bore. It worked very well. I would plug the barrel at the cylender and pour mercury down the bore to the muzzle then place the gun in a stand I built. The mercury would simply amalgamate with the lead and remove it from the bore. Well, that was then, not now. Had most of us know the dangers of mercury we probably wouldn't have used it, regardless of how well it worked. That said,, LEWIS is the way to go.

January 27, 2007, 11:09 AM	#10
ConRich Senior Member Join Date: December 7, 2004 Location: Maine Posts: 299	Dfariswheel, Thank you for explaining the Lewis system to me. Rich

January 28, 2007, 01:15 AM	#13
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,829	Want something cheaper than a Lewis Lead Remover? Buy some copper "Chore Boy" scouring pad from your supermarket. Get the soapless one. Cut a piece of the copper pad and wrap it around a worn bronze bristle brush. That'll cut the copper muy pronto. I stoped using the Lewis Lead Remover when I learned about Chore Boy (and no, I don't have any stock in it either). __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*

February 1, 2007, 11:06 PM	#14
moredes15 Member Join Date: January 30, 2007 Posts: 45	I'm with Gary 100%. I used to use LLR religiously on my barrels. Then out of desperation, when it didn't work on a badly leaded barrel, I tried Chore Boy. I haven't bought those brass patch packs in 3 years. I've cleaned out a barrel that didn't have lands and grooves for the first 2" with Chore Boy, and it cleaned the barrel in 40 seconds. It's WAY cheaper, and 5x faster. A 3 year supply cost me a whole $1.79. Try it once, you'll never go back.

February 6, 2007, 05:42 PM	#15
buckster Senior Member Join Date: January 24, 2006 Posts: 674	Ditto Chore boy. Cut it the size you normally use.

February 6, 2007, 06:08 PM	#16
waynedm Junior member Join Date: January 31, 2007 Location: Minnesota Posts: 458	Just take a torch to it until it's red, that lead will pour right out.

March 16, 2007, 02:39 PM	#17
JonJay Junior Member Join Date: March 16, 2007 Posts: 3	Gary, are you referring the copper "chore boy" that looks like a bunch of copper strands that are all coiled up? If so, I don't see how that can replace the LLR tool. On the other hand IF you're referring to a copper "chore boy" that is a "flat" piece of copper, then that would make sense, but I have been unable to find a product like that in my local grocery store. Also, I have not seen, or heard of, a copper chore boy that is impregnated with soap. Reason I'm asking all the questions is that I too have a horrendous problem with leading in all of my revolvers and am growing weary of scrubbing, brushing, scrubbing, brushing, and then using the "Lead Away" patches, then starting the process all over again and still not getting all of the lead out. If you could clarify more precisely what the chore boy looks like, then I could pick one up and get rid of the pesky lead in the bores of my guns. Thanks.

March 16, 2007, 04:28 PM	#19
Bill DeShivs Senior Member Join Date: April 7, 2006 Posts: 10,978	Johnjay Yes, the coiled copper Choreboy pads. Bill

March 17, 2007, 11:33 PM	#20
ahankster Member Join Date: February 15, 2007 Location: Mississippi Posts: 19	Ok, This is half heartedly in jest, but serious as well. First off, I use a Lewis lead remover. I shoot somewhere between 500 and 1000 rounds a month out of my cowboy (Ruger) revolvers and rifle (sometimes more). The Lewis lead remover is the only way to get the ring out of the forcing cone and first inch of barrel,,,other than what I am going to suggest. After about 300 rounds, leading does become a problem. Some folks suggest shooting fullhouse 357 rounds to clean them up. I just don't agree with this method. I would rather just use the Lewis tool. But, I have found that a few, just a few, fullhouse black powder rounds will clean up any and all leading that might be plaguing the guns. Then, the BP fouling is much easier to clean than the lead. You might try that. Load up a few compressed BP rounds to clean out the lead and then soak the barrel and scrub it well to clean out the BP. At least you wouldn't have to invest in a LL? Just an off the wall suggestion. Hank

March 18, 2007, 06:50 PM	#21
Dfariswheel Senior Member Join Date: May 4, 2001 Posts: 7,478	"Shooting the lead out" is an old urban legend about guns. In fact what happens is, the bullet will "ride over" some of the lead and will actually "iron" it into the bore. This tends to make the leading difficult to see, and may lead you to think the lead is gone, when it's still there. Moisture works it's way UNDER the lead, and the first sign of trouble is when the lead starts to flake off, exposing rust and pitting. The major danger of shooting jacketed bullets to clean the lead out is when there's JUST a little too much lead present, and the bullet can't push it out of the way fast enough. When this happens, you get a bulge or a ring blown in the barrel. People often wonder how a barrel got ringed or bulged, and how someone was careless enough to fire a gun with an obstructed bore. In many cases they were "shooting the lead" out.

March 20, 2007, 11:36 AM	#22
JonJay Junior Member Join Date: March 16, 2007 Posts: 3	I totally agree Dfaris. I've heard of that process before too, and have half-heartedly tried it in the past to remove lead and I've noticed that all it does is compress it more into the bore like you say. Nope!....give me the LLR or a reasonable facsimile to "scrape" that stuff from the bore because as far as I'm concerned that's the ONLY way that you're going to get it out. __________________ Learn from the mistakes of others. You can't live long enough to make them all yourself.

March 28, 2007, 05:47 PM	#23
FM12 Senior Member Join Date: February 5, 2007 Location: Monroeville, Alabama Posts: 1,683	Does the choreboy damage the barrel?

March 28, 2007, 10:40 PM	#24
Bill DeShivs Senior Member Join Date: April 7, 2006 Posts: 10,978	No, it won't hurt the barrel. Bill

March 30, 2007, 04:01 PM	#25
Tim R Senior Member Join Date: November 30, 2004 Location: God's side of Washington State Posts: 1,601	If your pistol is leading a lot may I suggest try belling the case just a bit more..... I went from lots of lead fouling to almost nothing just by adding a bit more bell to the case mouth. Seems I was moving the sides of the bullet around when seating. I had a hard time doing this as we try not to over work our brass. With Jacketed I still use as little bell as I can get away with. __________________ God Bless our Troops especially our Snipers.

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