Need old ruined rifles or shotguns

[The Rattler]

I am totally inexperienced in wooden stock maintenance & repair. As a matter of fact, I have not even painted anything before. I have a sportarized 303 Mark III* Lithgow Enfield, LC Smith, Remington Model 11, & 22 single shot. I owned all of them since boyhood. I removed the forestock of my 303 & it appeared dry.

I inquired on another Forum about general maintenance to replenish the wood & also asked my gunsmith & an extremely knowledgable friend about it. I received many suggestions about what product to use, but the clear consensus was Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO). So I bought BLO & a paint brush & was ready to start.

I was advised to apply the BLO to the exterior of the stocks as well as the interior. Since I have never done anything even close to this before, I talked to my knowledgeable friend, reviewed a few websites & reviewed a couple of YouTube videos. Those intimidated me. I do not want to risk ruining my life long gun stocks.

Do you think it best for me to buy some old ruined & cheap rifles or shotguns to use for training? If so, where do I find them?

Any suggestions will be appreciated.

[Buzzcook]

Estate sales, sometimes auctions.

If it's just a practice piece you could use old furniture instead.

The hardest part of refinishing is usually stripping the old finish and surface prep. The rest is mostly just time consuming.

[Doyle]

Hit up the local gunsmiths and tell them what you are looking to do. They should be able to save broken/cracked stocks for you that they have replaced.

[tahunua001]

everyone has their own methods of oiling stocks. some guys say you'll ruin it if you don't do it their way. personally, I use ripped up T shirts to rub a glistening heavy coat until it's running off, then rub vigorously until it is shiny and has no excess, leave it to dry for 12-24 hours and do again. 2 coats can make a world of difference for a dry stock.
it's pretty hard to over-oil a stock, it's easy to dry it out.

[4V50 Gary]

What Doyle suggested. Ask a gunsmith. He may give you a stock off a gun that needs work. As you prove your skill, he'll probably entrust you with more work.

[T. O'Heir]

Hi. If you want to re-finish stocks, buy or go to your public library for any book about refinishing fine furniture. Wood is wood. The products and techniques are the same for high end furniture and rifle stocks.
However, you can't hurt any rifle stock with BLO, but use a clean lint free cloth instead of the paint brush. It doesn't need that much at once. Still won't hurt anything, but it'll take much longer to dry.
You should clean the stocks first. Any wood cleaner will do. Murphy's Oil Soap, for example.
The BLO goes in the inside too because it'll help seal the wood and prevent moisture(mostly humidity) causing the wood to expand and contract. BLO does not completely seal wood though. There are wood sealers that will do that.
On the sporters, I'd use tung oil instead of BLO. Tung oil gives a hard, waterproof, softly shiney, finish that is more suitable to sporting guns. Has to be rubbed in, using several thin coats and a clean lint free cloth every time, over several days(24 hours drying time between coats) vs how BLO goes on.

[bedbugbilly]

I have used BLO to finish stocks as well as other wood items over the years - tool handles, etc. Everyone has their own method.

First, Boiled Linseed Oil is what you use - not Raw Linseed Oil - two different animals. For Boiled Linseed Oil finishes, I usually mix up 2/3 BLO with 1/3 Turpentine (real turpentine, not synthetic). I keep a plastic bottle of this mixture on my shelf all the time. The Turp will thin the BLO and help it absorb inn to the wood. This can be done on unfinished wood or stained. I've used it on Walnut, Maple and even Curly Ash stocks. On an unfinished, unstained stock, I always "whisker it several times - this is done by dampening a rag with water and rubbing it in. As it dryer, it will "raise" the grain and then I sand with very fine sandpaper (with the grain of course) to remove the "whiskers". I do this two or three times - even on close grained Maple. After doing this, I let it dry completely for several days and then re-sand with very fine grit paper.

I apply a good coat of it on to the stock in sections with a piece of T shirt - apply a decent coat and then rub vigorously. The turpentine will help carry the BLO into the wood - i.e. it will penetrate. I do this to th entire stock and when done properly, the stock should have a "sheen" to it. I let it dry for several days and then repeat. If I notice any raised grain, I use extremely fine abrasive paper between coats. The number of coats required will depend on the species, the particuly piece of wood and what you like in terms of "looks".

On many stocks, I may repeat this five or six times - all depends on the wood. The "final" coat or coats, I use straight BLO, the same T shirt material and a lot of elbow grease. When done, you should have a nice "sheen" to it.

I have used this method with excellent on plain and curly maple stocks that I first stained with "aquas forte" - an acidic stain that is then heated to turn a dark color and bring the grain pattern of Maple out. (I've used this on most of my custom built muzzleloading rifles that I made in past years).

The nice thin that I like about a BLO finish is that it is a great finish fro a "working gun". Anybody who hunts knows that over time your stock will get scratches, etc. that can't be helped. The gun will be carried in all types of weather - warm, damp, rainy, snowy, etc. When the stock starts to show use, the finish can easily be renewed by rubbing in another coat of BLO.

Recently, I dug out an old GEW98 German Mauser that a relative had brought back from WWI in 1918. I reload and I wanted to put this "old girl" back to work after sitting for 95 years. It is a "1905 Danzig" and the stock has lots of "well earned" bumps, scratches, etc. from actual combat use. I didn't want to technically "refinish" the wood so I just carefully washed it with a damp rag and some mild soap and then let it dry for a few days. Usint the 2/3 BLO and 1/3 Turpentine mixture, I applied it with a T shirt rag and spent a lot of elbow grease in rubbing it in. About four coats brought the wood back to live again and gave it a very nice sheen that will withstand what "range wear" it will get. Since I had the barrel and action removed, I also rubbed the mixture into the barrel channel and action mortise - it will act as a protection against any moisture that could find its way in there.

If you are going to refinish stocks, etc. - the best way to learn is to just jimp in and do it. If you want to practice first - try and find some wood scraps out of the same species - i.e. walnut, maple, beech, birch - whatever the stock is made from. The practice on the scrap. Keep in mind that every piece of wood is "different" and will accept finishes. Old wood will accept finishes differently than "new" wood.

In applying finishes such as BLO, lacquers, varnish, etc. - a number of lighter coats built up are better than one "heavy" coat. Allow drying time and don't get impatient by trying to do it in one day. Good luck and have fun!

[bedbugbilly]

As an added note. When using any finishes, but particularly oil finishes such as Boiled Linseed Oil - when finished applying, CLEAN UP YOUR RAGS, ETC. NEVER LEAVE THEM LAYING AROUND OVERNIGHT OR FOR LONG PERIOD.

Oily rags, if left on a bench always have the possibility of "spontaneous combustion" and causing a fire. Read the directions and warnings on any finishes or solvents you are using and follow the safety rules on the label. If using flammable solvents, etc. - do so in a well ventilated area and never near an open flame - i.e. pilot light on a water heater, furnace, etc. Fumes travel and can ignite. As a retired fireman,I have seen way too many fires caused from such carelessness.

[AKexpat]

BLO is great for a nice finish, but be prepared to spend MANY hours laboring at it as well as drying time.

From bedbugbilly:

I apply a good coat of it on to the stock in sections with a piece of T shirt - apply a decent coat and then rub vigorously. The turpentine will help carry the BLO into the wood - i.e. it will penetrate. I do this to th entire stock and when done properly, the stock should have a "sheen" to it. I let it dry for several days and then repeat. If I notice any raised grain, I use extremely fine abrasive paper between coats. The number of coats required will depend on the species, the particular piece of wood and what you like in terms of "looks".

I heartily concur...