meat grinder - seen this one?

SkaerE · February 27, 2013, 01:52 PM

hey guys, ive got this older elec meat grinder and wanted to see if anyone recognized it/knew anything about maintenance on one.

best i can tell i think it is made by Intedge (based on pics i found) or General D and has a westinghouse 1/2 HP motor. looks like it uses #12 cutter and screens.

appears that I can oil either the motor or the gearing using that little flip top on the top.

any ideas what type of oil? how much? looking down into the oil hole it looks a bit crudy - has anyone taken the geared front end off to clean it?

thanks, im at a loss - cant find any good info on the net.

Cowboy_mo · February 27, 2013, 05:44 PM

Good old 3 in 1 oil has been used on equipment like that for years.

You mentioned it looking "gunky". If you don't want to take it apart I have one suggestion. In the book The Complete Gun Manual they talk about cleaning gunky trigger by squirting them down with lighter fluid (basically naptha) to dissolve old grease and oil. You might pour some lighter fluid into that oil port, let it soak a bit and then turn it upside down to let the gunk flow out. Wait a bit and refill the thing with new 3 in 1 oil.

SkaerE · February 27, 2013, 06:19 PM

Oh ok. There's a sight glass on the bottom I just noticed. I assume like all other sight glasses half full is good to go?

3 in one food safe or should it just never come in contact. I may break it open and take a peak/clean it out. Hope to find someone who has one.

Also, just noticed a worn serial number plate on the back. Looks like it reads montgomery ward commercial meat chopper, can't read the model no or serial anymore though

.284 · February 27, 2013, 07:13 PM

I can't help you but that thing looks legit. I'm jealous.

BillM · February 27, 2013, 07:38 PM

The shiny part between the motor and the grinder is a gear reduction.
These come in a few varieties----but I'm going to guess based on the
configuration that yours is probably a double reduction box with straight
or possibly helical cut gears, rather than a worm gear reducer.

Typical oil in these boxes is 85W-90 gear lube. Some use a 50W
gear lube, and a few are as light as 30W. Some small ones even use
grease.

3 in 1 oil is way too light for a box of this type. If you can't find any
solid info on the oil required, I would go with a decent 85W-90
gear lube. You should be able to find some almost anywhere---it
is used in automotive differentials.

Sure Shot Mc Gee · February 28, 2013, 08:34 AM

There's not much maintenance needed to keep them running. A drop or two of 3 in 1 oil in the motors cup. Oil level filled up to the middle of its site glass and this grinder should be good to go. The only thing I could mention. See if it has a hard fibre washer mounted on the rear of it worm.To grind without one causes metal wear between the worm shaft and its grinder head. The grinding head is meant to come off so to be cleaned afterwords. Every time you use it. I have one similar as yours. I just throw the parts of my grinding head into our dishwasher when needing to be cleaned. Just try as best as you can to pick the pieces of sinew, meat, and bread (used to clear the grinding head) off/out first before washing. Pork steak and stew meat will indeed temp you to make something special for the grill or stove. Just takes a little (Spice) experimenting on your part and a good book of recipes to follow such as " Great Sausage Recipes by Rytek Kutas or Home Sausage Making by Peery & Reavis. Or_ All Recipes_ on the internet has a few good ones too. Have fun.

SkaerE · February 28, 2013, 07:54 PM

thanks for the help guys!

my choprite 22 has the fibrous washer you speak of between the auger and the casting, but the auger rides in the casting just not up against it. this elec one has both a bronze (copper, brass, who knows) washer as well as a pressed in bronze bushing that the auger rides in.

so what is the "cup" of the motor? (for the 3 in 1 oil)

and what kind of oil do you run in yours Sure Shot?

thanks again!!

Sure Shot Mc Gee · March 1, 2013, 12:39 AM

Front and rear shaft motor bearings have spots for oiling. Like little holes in its metal casting where one would drop a little oil into. (cups)
Some use 3 & 1 oil. Some even use Break Free clp for the purpose.
Front shaft of your motor turns a planetary gearing reduction system. Some guys run automotive rear-end lube 85/90 weight grease when the seals and gaskets are tight and don't leak. That heavy weight lube also helps quiet its gearing lash. When your grinder starts to leak that heavy lube latter in age. If the leak gets heavy enough requiring filling more often. Than its a good idea to flush that reduction system and then use food grade oil at that time for its gearing lube. Just keep checking its gear reduction tank more often by the use of that site glass. And keep it filled half way up its glass.
I actually have two grinders here. Newest is a Lem w/ size 8 plate we use in our kitchen. The other is a Toledo Grinder made back in the early 20s. That one has a 10/12 plate. The Toledo grinder can actually grind cattle bones and not skip a beat in doing so. All cast iron construction and weighs near 100 lbs. Its motor is 2/3 HP Delco Remy capacitor start all copper wound and gallops along at 1750 rpm. I hope I've answered your questions SkaerE. Enjoy that grinder of yours Sir.

SkaerE · March 3, 2013, 05:41 PM

i appreciate all the help!

i have noticed a slight leak (small amount of oil underneath the gear reduction housing) after it sits for a while. have you ever taken the gear reduction off to try and fix a leak. I'm terrified of taking it off and having a bunch of gears spill out. ha!

to flush would you remove the sight glass to drain?

Sure Shot Mc Gee · March 4, 2013, 12:02 AM

Quote:

I'm terrified of taking it off and having a bunch of gears spill out

If the gear oil isn't leaking out of it in a big way. Or its a leak that doesn't leave behind a huge wet spot over time. I would just let it be. Old grinders are hard to find specific parts for like gaskets or seals. Most times gaskets have to be hand/cut and seals have to be measured in hopes to find something else close that fits.
While grinding or storage. (for an oil catcher) I would suggest one of those school lunch room trays that are also seen at the popular fast food restaurants be placed under the grinder to catch any oil lost. (If your that worried about it.)
All gear reduction housings come apart differently. There is no set way to take them apart. I wouldn't try to remove the site glass either. If it were to break. I doubt you would find a exact replacement for that little piece of glass. (And plastic used for that lens purpose.) Its known clear plastic doesn't get along well with petroleum products. (probably fog over)

The color of the reduction gear case oil will tell you what is being used in it. Food grade oil is clear in color. In its darkest dirty stage it may look light tan. Automotive gear lube 85w-90 on the other hand is dark brown to almost black in color. And that is what I would use to fill its reservoir with as BillM has already suggested. (85w-90)

I hope I answered your questions. Got more just post them. That's why were here. (to help)

buck460XVR · March 4, 2013, 11:12 AM

Quote:

i have noticed a slight leak (small amount of oil underneath the gear reduction housing) after it sits for a while

This is why on the other forum you posted this in, I posted that I would want to use food-grade lubricant. It would only take a small amount of dino based lubricant to contaminate a whole batch of meat. One little smear on a finger that touches the meat while feeding the hopper would be all that is needed. Anyone that has changed dino based gear oil knows how bad it smells, I'm assuming it tastes the same.

wooly booger · March 4, 2013, 11:49 AM

I learned this from my cousin, whose family owned a grocery store in western KY. After done grinding for the day, run a loaf of cheap bread through the grinder and throw away. The bread soaks up moisture and removes any sinew and meat from the plates, making it easier to wash.

pythonwill · November 25, 2013, 01:21 PM

I have this exact same grinder,I dont know much about it, I just got it and am wondering if there is a stuffer attachment I could get for it???

mxsailor803 · November 26, 2013, 10:57 AM

My dad has the same grinder that he bought in the late 80's. I think his was a 1hp though. Ground up many a deer and hog with that thing. Just put a little 3 in 1 oil before each use and it will last many more years.

Sure Shot Mc Gee · November 26, 2013, 12:18 PM

As far as wanting a stuffer. My advice: You'd be better off having a stuffer & grinder separate from each other. Especially if you intend to make large batches of sausage. (10-lbs or more.) Quite often a grinder knife fills up with stringy sinew especially when grinding thru large batches of meat. In doing so it slows the meat exit thus over chopping occurs and/or makes mush of it. Kind of like pink slime we've all heard about lately. A loose a Plate Nut. The grinder grinds slow and requires its operator to force the product thru. To tight a Plate Nut. Unwanted ware seen on its plate and premature dulling of its knife will occur.
The main item in a grinders use. KEEP ITS FRONT GRINDING PLATE NUT HAND TIGHTEN>Not excessively tight. But hand tight. {listening to its RPM changes and amount of meat exiting its Plate is way good way to tell if you've overtightened or its loosely tightened} that needs to be watched closely.

February 27, 2013, 07:13 PM	#4
.284 Senior Member Join Date: July 8, 2009 Location: davison, michigan Posts: 665	I can't help you but that thing looks legit. I'm jealous. __________________ Guns have only two enemies, rust and politicians! Deer are amazing creatures....so please don't burn the sauteed onions and I'll pass on the steak sauce, thank you.

February 27, 2013, 05:44 PM	#2
Cowboy_mo Senior Member Join Date: June 23, 2010 Location: Missouri Posts: 1,039	Good old 3 in 1 oil has been used on equipment like that for years. You mentioned it looking "gunky". If you don't want to take it apart I have one suggestion. In the book The Complete Gun Manual they talk about cleaning gunky trigger by squirting them down with lighter fluid (basically naptha) to dissolve old grease and oil. You might pour some lighter fluid into that oil port, let it soak a bit and then turn it upside down to let the gunk flow out. Wait a bit and refill the thing with new 3 in 1 oil.

February 27, 2013, 06:19 PM	#3
SkaerE Senior Member Join Date: July 22, 2001 Location: Va Posts: 166	Oh ok. There's a sight glass on the bottom I just noticed. I assume like all other sight glasses half full is good to go? 3 in one food safe or should it just never come in contact. I may break it open and take a peak/clean it out. Hope to find someone who has one. Also, just noticed a worn serial number plate on the back. Looks like it reads montgomery ward commercial meat chopper, can't read the model no or serial anymore though

February 27, 2013, 07:38 PM	#5
BillM Senior Member Join Date: January 20, 2009 Location: Amity Oregon Posts: 791	The shiny part between the motor and the grinder is a gear reduction. These come in a few varieties----but I'm going to guess based on the configuration that yours is probably a double reduction box with straight or possibly helical cut gears, rather than a worm gear reducer. Typical oil in these boxes is 85W-90 gear lube. Some use a 50W gear lube, and a few are as light as 30W. Some small ones even use grease. 3 in 1 oil is way too light for a box of this type. If you can't find any solid info on the oil required, I would go with a decent 85W-90 gear lube. You should be able to find some almost anywhere---it is used in automotive differentials.

February 28, 2013, 08:34 AM	#6
Sure Shot Mc Gee Senior Member Join Date: January 2, 2012 Location: Minnesota Posts: 3,876	There's not much maintenance needed to keep them running. A drop or two of 3 in 1 oil in the motors cup. Oil level filled up to the middle of its site glass and this grinder should be good to go. The only thing I could mention. See if it has a hard fibre washer mounted on the rear of it worm.To grind without one causes metal wear between the worm shaft and its grinder head. The grinding head is meant to come off so to be cleaned afterwords. Every time you use it. I have one similar as yours. I just throw the parts of my grinding head into our dishwasher when needing to be cleaned. Just try as best as you can to pick the pieces of sinew, meat, and bread (used to clear the grinding head) off/out first before washing. Pork steak and stew meat will indeed temp you to make something special for the grill or stove. Just takes a little (Spice) experimenting on your part and a good book of recipes to follow such as " Great Sausage Recipes by Rytek Kutas or Home Sausage Making by Peery & Reavis. Or_ All Recipes_ on the internet has a few good ones too. Have fun.

February 28, 2013, 07:54 PM	#7
SkaerE Senior Member Join Date: July 22, 2001 Location: Va Posts: 166	thanks for the help guys! my choprite 22 has the fibrous washer you speak of between the auger and the casting, but the auger rides in the casting just not up against it. this elec one has both a bronze (copper, brass, who knows) washer as well as a pressed in bronze bushing that the auger rides in. so what is the "cup" of the motor? (for the 3 in 1 oil) and what kind of oil do you run in yours Sure Shot? thanks again!!

March 1, 2013, 12:39 AM	#8
Sure Shot Mc Gee Senior Member Join Date: January 2, 2012 Location: Minnesota Posts: 3,876	Front and rear shaft motor bearings have spots for oiling. Like little holes in its metal casting where one would drop a little oil into. (cups) Some use 3 & 1 oil. Some even use Break Free clp for the purpose. Front shaft of your motor turns a planetary gearing reduction system. Some guys run automotive rear-end lube 85/90 weight grease when the seals and gaskets are tight and don't leak. That heavy weight lube also helps quiet its gearing lash. When your grinder starts to leak that heavy lube latter in age. If the leak gets heavy enough requiring filling more often. Than its a good idea to flush that reduction system and then use food grade oil at that time for its gearing lube. Just keep checking its gear reduction tank more often by the use of that site glass. And keep it filled half way up its glass. I actually have two grinders here. Newest is a Lem w/ size 8 plate we use in our kitchen. The other is a Toledo Grinder made back in the early 20s. That one has a 10/12 plate. The Toledo grinder can actually grind cattle bones and not skip a beat in doing so. All cast iron construction and weighs near 100 lbs. Its motor is 2/3 HP Delco Remy capacitor start all copper wound and gallops along at 1750 rpm. I hope I've answered your questions SkaerE. Enjoy that grinder of yours Sir.

March 3, 2013, 05:41 PM	#9
SkaerE Senior Member Join Date: July 22, 2001 Location: Va Posts: 166	i appreciate all the help! i have noticed a slight leak (small amount of oil underneath the gear reduction housing) after it sits for a while. have you ever taken the gear reduction off to try and fix a leak. I'm terrified of taking it off and having a bunch of gears spill out. ha! to flush would you remove the sight glass to drain?

March 4, 2013, 11:49 AM	#12
wooly booger Junior member Join Date: February 22, 2013 Location: on the edge Posts: 143	I learned this from my cousin, whose family owned a grocery store in western KY. After done grinding for the day, run a loaf of cheap bread through the grinder and throw away. The bread soaks up moisture and removes any sinew and meat from the plates, making it easier to wash.

November 25, 2013, 01:21 PM	#13
pythonwill Junior Member Join Date: May 18, 2005 Posts: 3	I have this exact same grinder,I dont know much about it, I just got it and am wondering if there is a stuffer attachment I could get for it???

November 26, 2013, 10:57 AM	#14
mxsailor803 Senior Member Join Date: February 8, 2010 Location: SC Posts: 1,344	My dad has the same grinder that he bought in the late 80's. I think his was a 1hp though. Ground up many a deer and hog with that thing. Just put a little 3 in 1 oil before each use and it will last many more years.

November 26, 2013, 12:18 PM	#15
Sure Shot Mc Gee Senior Member Join Date: January 2, 2012 Location: Minnesota Posts: 3,876	As far as wanting a stuffer. My advice: You'd be better off having a stuffer & grinder separate from each other. Especially if you intend to make large batches of sausage. (10-lbs or more.) Quite often a grinder knife fills up with stringy sinew especially when grinding thru large batches of meat. In doing so it slows the meat exit thus over chopping occurs and/or makes mush of it. Kind of like pink slime we've all heard about lately. A loose a Plate Nut. The grinder grinds slow and requires its operator to force the product thru. To tight a Plate Nut. Unwanted ware seen on its plate and premature dulling of its knife will occur. The main item in a grinders use. KEEP ITS FRONT GRINDING PLATE NUT HAND TIGHTEN>Not excessively tight. But hand tight. {listening to its RPM changes and amount of meat exiting its Plate is way good way to tell if you've overtightened or its loosely tightened} that needs to be watched closely.